Buying my 335 coupe this week. Need some advice.

Originally Posted by Hersh

The quotes I am getting for the 2011's are $5k to $10k more. Will there be any 2011 incentives? All the dealers are giving astronomical quotes.

Is the difference between the 2010 and 2011 that great?

Originally Posted by angler

you must be mistaken, are you comparing apples to apples when you say that? Even with the 2500 credit it is hard to believe that they would ask 7500 more for the same car.

Originally Posted by Hersh

Yes, I am comparing apples to apples. As you see, I have a quote already. It isn't rocket science to look at the features for the 2010 and tell me what the equivalent would be for a 2011. I must admit that I've corresponded with several dealers and not one yet has given me a quote with exactly all the same features and comfort assist.

This is really getting frustrating for me. I have $40k CASH and will finance the rest. In this economy I thought I'd be landing a sweet deal. I am starting to have second thoughts. Maybe it is not my time?

There should be little or no price difference on the invoice cost of the car + options for 2010 vs. 2011. The differences should be the spring credit + any difference in amount over invoice that a dealer is willing to sell for, and financing offers. Since you could certainly order a 2011 for invoice + $1000 from a recommended dealer (as many have), even if they offered you the 2010 AT invoice, with the $2500 credit, the difference should be no more than $3500, plus the financing differential (which won't be much if you are paying $40K cash).

Now, if youir dealer is quoting a 2011 at or near 2011 MSRP, that could get the difference to the range you are seeing. But that is a problem with your dealer or dealers. To get your bearings on where you really stand, you should be comparing your quote on a 2010 to 2011 invoice +$1000. Then you can decide whether it's worth the difference, and if you decide on a 2011, then you just have to find a dealer who will make the deal at 2011 invoice +$1000.

Originally Posted by Hersh

Is this a good deal? And should I go with a silver exterior or black?

He's charging you MSRP, which is totally awesome! My SA charged me 2000 over list because I live in a rich neighborhood.

Originally Posted by luxun54

Now, if youir dealer is quoting a 2011 at or near 2011 MSRP, that could get the difference to the range you are seeing. But that is a problem with your dealer or dealers. To get your bearings on where you really stand, you should be comparing your quote on a 2010 to 2011 invoice +$1000. Then you can decide whether it's worth the difference, and if you decide on a 2011, then you just have to find a dealer who will make the deal at 2011 invoice +$1000.

I think that is the difference. But, this is proving easier said than done FOR ME. Maybe I am just a wimp. Or maybe I need to hold out until I feel good about the deal.

Originally Posted by Hersh

Is this a good deal? And should I go with a silver exterior or black?

In today's economy DO NOT pay MSRP. With some shopping you should be able to find a much better deal. I'm in the market for a 2011 335i coupe 6MT. Since there are so few 2010 6MTs I have decided to order one. I dropped by Moritz BMW in Arlington today and worked out a deal which is $1835 over invoice ($2200 off MSRP). With tons of 2010s on the lot they won't deal as much, but I'm happy with it (No other additional fees, just the normal TTL. I could have gotten $500 over invoice for 2010 but no 6MTs. Now the hard part is making the final selection on color. I saw pictures of a Le Mans Blue coupe and thought it was awesome but I'm worried it may be a bit too flashy for me. They didn't have one on the lot so I've never seen one in person. I also like the space gray metallic.

They had a 535i 6MT on the lot offering $5K off which basically put it at the same price as the 335i, got to drive it but just didn't seem as fun to drive. The cool thing is in the 2011 they offer this anthracite bamboo trim which I really liked.

Originally Posted by Hersh

Yes, I am comparing apples to apples. As you see, I have a quote already. It isn't rocket science to look at the features for the 2010 and tell me what the equivalent would be for a 2011. I must admit that I've corresponded with several dealers and not one yet has given me a quote with exactly all the same features and comfort assist.

This is really getting frustrating for me. I have $40k CASH and will finance the rest. In this economy I thought I'd be landing a sweet deal. I am starting to have second thoughts. Maybe it is not my time?

Take a couple of deep breaths, and, price out your car, item by item, on Edmunds. Check every option, so you get the prices.

Then, go over your bids, and see how it all shapes out.

It is not unusual for you to be offered a better deal on a car now, and in the last year before the mid model refresh that will come out for the 2011. The 2010 is now, and, dealers hope that the 2011 will not have to be discounted.

Since you are buying the car, residuals and such don't matter. But, if you trade it in, a 2011 will always be worth more than a 2010, all other things being equal.

But don't let yourself get all turned around by the sales people, they want to sell you fast, now, and with what they have. You, on the other hand, are going to be paying mucho dinero, so, you should get exactly what you want. Exact colors, exact options. Don't settle, especially on a car you plan to buy.

What is the general consensus for what I should expect to pay for a fully loaded 335xi Coupe, automatic drive with the Premium Package, sport package, Navigation system, Comfort Assist?

Originally Posted by Hersh

What is the general consensus for what I should expect to pay for a fully loaded 335xi Coupe, automatic drive with the Premium Package, sport package, Navigation system, Comfort Assist?

lets try this another way, what you want to do is go into the dealer and tell them you are willing to pay X dollars over invoice for a 2011 car. either they are willing to do it or not it's that simple. once you agree to that build the car and the dealer will show you a build sheet with the invoice prices compared to the msrp prices. all you do is add X dollars (that you agreed) to the total of the invoice price and that is your final price. do not start from msrp start from invoice plus X. in this economy there is no way you should pay any more than 1000 over invoice for a 2011 and that is on the high side. if they say no get up and say i will go to another dealer that wants to make X dollars for selling a car today. it is really that simple!

Originally Posted by angler

lets try this another way, what you want to do is go into the dealer and tell them you are willing to pay X dollars over invoice for a 2011 car. either they are willing to do it or not it's that simple. once you agree to that build the car and the dealer will show you a build sheet with the invoice prices compared to the msrp prices. all you do is add X dollars (that you agreed) to the total of the invoice price and that is your final price. do not start from msrp start from invoice plus X. in this economy there is no way you should pay any more than 1000 over invoice for a 2011 and that is on the high side. if they say no get up and say i will go to another dealer that wants to make X dollars for selling a car today. it is really that simple!

Agreed, even though I just ordered a 2011 for $1850 over invoice. Probably could have gotten better deal if I had been willing to walk. But make sure that when they agree to XX over invoice that they don't add in additional fees when they do the paperwork. Many dealers won't include these fees when they discuss price over invoice. The only fee that I know of which should be calculated in is the Destination and handling fee of $875. So just make sure you are clear that whatever number you come up with is the final number + TTL.

Oh, one other way to negotiate is use invoice numbers + $875 destination charge + TTL + dealer profit you are willing to pay (calculate out yourself) and just come in with a list of options and an OUT THE DOOR price. This cannot be manipulated because you were very clear it included everything. Then just say this is all I can afford, Please can you help me get the car of my dreams! :-)

Great ideas. Much appreciated. What is a realistic dealer profit?

My best guess is anything $500 or over is realistic. Just remember that dealers make much more than this number over invoice on each sale. There is a variable holdback that BMW pays the dealer for each sale which I think is based on many things like customer satisfaction ratings and such. So don't fall for the "We aren't making any money on this deal" statements. They won't sell you a car if they aren't making sufficient money.

I just went back an read your earlier posts. If you are buying a 2010 and financing with BMW you get an additional $2500 off, this comes from BMW directly so you would subtract $2500 from whatever number you come up with from your calculation above.

My 2011 335 coupe is on the boat as we speak. Comfort access is a must and do not get those style 342 rim! I don't know why they even have those horrible rims

Originally Posted by jioO

My 2011 335 coupe is on the boat as we speak. Comfort access is a must and do not get those style 342 rim! I don't know why they even have those horrible rims

not looking to start a fight here and i do not get my people buy comfort access. 500.00 so you can keep your key in your pocket and then have more crap that has the potential to break? it is that hard to push a button to open your car i just don't get it. seems like there are better ways to spend 500.00. i understand that it is a convenience just does not seem worth it to me!

Originally Posted by angler

not looking to start a fight here and i do not get my people buy comfort access. 500.00 so you can keep your key in your pocket and then have more crap that has the potential to break? it is that hard to push a button to open your car i just don't get it. seems like there are better ways to spend 500.00. i understand that it is a convenience just does not seem worth it to me!

I felt the same way too, but it was $1000 in the 5er. I figured, I never had it, so I won't miss it. Same with other neat stuff, like HUD, that people who have it love it, but if you never had it, you don't miss it. I definitely recommend the comfort seats, but, I have a bad back, and I needed that, see if the regular seats are good. Like I said, go over everything and pick what you want and take your time.

Heck, if you are ordering, consider European Delivery if you have the time and the patience. You don't save money, but you get a European trip in your Bimmer with it. Driving on the autobahn at 3 digit speeds is a real lifetime experience.

Originally Posted by Hersh

Comfort access is a great idea. Is there any functional advantage to the 18" wheels?

+1 on CA. Can't go wrong with silver, gray, or black. All great colors. I didn't get black because of the Florida heat.

no worries man..... i understand some people dont want to spend the money.... how i looked at it was i am spending almost 60k whats another 500 dollars.... bmw kicks ass!!!

Question -- How do I know my dealer is ordering the car with the exact options I am requesting? They've told me I can put down a deposit, but I say I want something in writing stating exactly what I am getting. There must be a formal process. Can anyone explain so I don't get a bait and switch?

Thanks!

I was worried about that too. He should have a form that they print off after they order it. You can also check the status online. You can set up a BMW account and watch the progress of you car. The online thing was actually wrong, but the dealer assured me it was correct. My car ended up coming out correct! You don't have to take delivery of the car if it isn't what you ordered.

Originally Posted by Hersh

Question -- How do I know my dealer is ordering the car with the exact options I am requesting? They've told me I can put down a deposit, but I say I want something in writing stating exactly what I am getting. There must be a formal process. Can anyone explain so I don't get a bait and switch?

Thanks!

I ordered mine last week and my CA gave me the Inventory Sheet so I could review to ensure it was correct. It has the production number on it with all the options You can use that to track your BMW on bmwusa.com

Thanks for the tips! Much appreciated.

I just ordered a 2011 335 last week from herb chambers, invoice + 1000 very easy to deal with Ken the sales manager was strightforward Cars just been built and will arrive May 1.

I won't do 500 over invoice. Dealers in the DC area doing 500 over invoice for 2011's 335 couples and 1845 credit for a xi model. I will wait couple of months to buy the car as the leasing mf and residuals improve.

Originally Posted by Hersh

Yes, I am comparing apples to apples. As you see, I have a quote already. It isn't rocket science to look at the features for the 2010 and tell me what the equivalent would be for a 2011. I must admit that I've corresponded with several dealers and not one yet has given me a quote with exactly all the same features and comfort assist.

This is really getting frustrating for me. I have $40k CASH and will finance the rest. In this economy I thought I'd be landing a sweet deal. I am starting to have second thoughts. Maybe it is not my time?

WOW! In this economy your gonna drop 40k cash on an automobile? Why dont you take 35k and buy some Bank Of America stock on the cheap and use the rest to finance the car with the 2500 spring drive credit? In a year you could buy 2 or 3 in cash!!!!!!!!!

Now that the price is up to $60k, I am going to drop $50k. I'd rather put $50k cash in a bmw than lose $30k chasing BoA stock. Honestly though, the whole $50k has come from liquidating some of my portfolio. Bought a condo and now a car. Let the market crash after that and I'll cry, but I won't have to worry about payments, trust me!

Originally Posted by DrGP

If you like to clean your car all the time and still have the car not look clean, go with black

+1 Black is just too much like hard work to keep clean. I'd go with silver everytime.