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  #1  
Old 04-11-2010, 06:09 AM
mr740iL mr740iL is offline
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Location: Macon Georgia
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: 2000 BMW 740iL
2000 740iL in need of help

Greetings all!

I am in need of some serious assistance. I recently went to the stealer for a mere coolant and oil leak. Ok, well long story short they said my upper timing case gaskets lft & rgt sides were bad $600 for lft $750 for rgt. Also they told me my coolant leak was from the drain or pressure release screw not having a rubber washer $15.... I opted to wait on the gasket job cause it seems like it just shouldnt cost that much but hey I knew I was at the stealer i mean dealer. Any who, after spending $130 (diagnostic and washer) only to discover they only checked the things I complained about ---- no further diagnostics were done ( i know this cause I have the dreeaded shimmy & a small power steering leak) they made no mention of.

I drove off thinking that it was all good & that I will get the gasket job done latter hooray for no more coolant leaks. HAHAHAHA my I get 30 minutes away and I smell smoke, I pull over @ a quick lube place I know a mech @ and he says dude your leaking bad. I call BMW and they have me refill it and bring it back............ Here's where it gets good, I get there he checks it out and comes like oh your gonna need a water pump.... 'm like what the dude I drove off and could have destroyed my engine and you just missed that "my bad"..... Ok at this point I'm feeling the sqeeze even though I know this is some BS he loosened my screw or something cause I didnt have that problem when I drove in. I get reamed for $650 for a water pump job..... Then to boot now my check engine soon light is on ( never had one before) and my car is idling rough. He says the code comes back as the camshaft position sensors. I refused to get robbed by them again so I order my own parts, I ordered a set of NGK spark plugs, and the left and right cam shaft sensors (aftermarket sensors). I replaced them, numbered my bremi, add anti-seize, dieletric, torqued them 21ft lbs) put it all back together and now my Idle is even worse. I need to know what could be the culprit I heard about the Idle Control Valve being cleaned will help (where the heck is it???).

My 2000 740iL Problems:
230,*** miles, I use mobile 1 HM synthetic, & 93 octane fuel

The Shimmy --- bought the control arms will be doing that job soon
Smoke on start up--- puff of white less than 30 seconds worth.....very intermittent might be a week might be two days in a row hot or cold engine and weather.....ADVISE ME PLEASE!
Rough Idle--- high speeds, @ a stop, and worse in reverse....Could it be the aftermarket cam senosrs not working properly, vac leak, spark plug bremi coils being out of order, a tapping sound since spark plug job as well???

I have not had any problems out of it since purchasing over a year ago and I get a diagnostic done and everything goes to isht. Please help me I am mechanically inclined, I refuse to go back to the stealer for I'm scared and two they just cost to much for no reason.

I have bought all my parts from a great site with great prices.... fcpgroton.com

I am in a hurry, I have to drive to my fathers funeral in 5 days and its a 12 hour drive (water pump joby took my flying money). Please respond here and especially email me at my personal email. mrevans06@hotmail.com..... desperate times cause for desperate measures!!!!!!! HELP ME PLEASE!
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  #2  
Old 04-11-2010, 06:05 PM
wilk187's Avatar
wilk187 wilk187 is offline
2001 740il Sport, RIP
Location: Nashville
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 676
Mein Auto: 2006 750i Sport, '13 QX56
That's alot of issues to tackle in one post...jeesk..i would post this exact same message on bimmerboard.com and bimmerforums.com also...the e38 boards there are a little more active
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  #3  
Old 04-12-2010, 01:02 AM
CodyItaliano's Avatar
CodyItaliano CodyItaliano is offline
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Location: Corpus Christi, TX
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 628
Mein Auto: 2001 740i
just wondering, exactly what part number were the spark plugs you used? if not the 3199 ngk, that might be one problem. dont go cheap on them. if you never replaced the water pump before, you are lucky. usually go every 90K-100k miles. your idle sounds ignition related, but you did in fact get new coils right? replaced all at the same time? if not, there would be another problem, i see it a lot in ford and GM with the coils going out one by one after replacing just one or two at a time.

that does seem really fishy that when you took the car into the dealership and had it looked at and what not, other problems popped up. definately research your local independant mechanics. try and find ones that specifically work on euros or imports. sometimes you can research online. those timing cover gaskets should not cost you that much, it was indeed rediculous. but then again, we're talking about the dealership so they are always going to charge you through the nose.

the shimmy issue, have you replaced the tires? had them ballanced? that was my case that it was actually the ones the dealership put on, were not ballanced correctly. they put weights on one side only, hammered on weights even! not the stick ons. cleared up my problem with my stock 17s. my 19s however had been bent, had that fixed, now need new tires as they were defective. might want to check the tires out, possibly get them ballanced which shoudlnt cost more than $50, if even that. i had mine done for $38, all four. if the wheels and tires arent the issue, all the front suspension and steering needs to be looked at. bushings and ball jointed parts should be looked at, i.e.: center link, tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms, stabilizer arm or bar bushings, lower control arms bushings. those are parts i know go out on these heavy front ends. not unlike other heavy cars though.

hope you wont give up on your E38. luckly, they arent terribly hard to work on for the most part. the timing chains are probably something i'd personally try and stay away from. but i dont know though as i havent opened mine up to find out what is really so hard about them. i think they have to be calibrated by a BMW scan tool though if removed from the engine.
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