M Coupe Stereo help needed please

Ahhh....what a mess I have made!

System I am attempting to install:
(keeping stock head unit)
Interfire 5 ch amp
Interfire Line out converters (for RCAs)
5.25" MB Quart PSC 213 components for the front
5.25" infiniti Kappas for the rear roof
JL 6W0 sub in the stock enclosure
+tons of dynamat & wiring


I was able to find the wiring diagram somewhere on this forum, and that certainly helped...but there is one wire that remains unaccounted for: the front door tweeter wires!

I have the rear of the car and the door panels removed. What I have noticed is that in the M coupe's door panel, there are two speakers; one tweeter, and one mid/tweet speaker. I decided to mount my tweeter in the stock location for a clean install. It was too big to be mounted in place of the tweeter, so I removed the mid/tweet and constructed a metal piece to hold it in place. The problem is that I don't know where I can tap that wire in the amp harness to connect to the output of MB Quart crossover. I think that the each of the front channels must be spliced into on the front of the car, then sent from that one channel out to the kick panel mid, and both of the speakers in the door. I should probably run new wire from the rear of the car (at the amp/crossover location) to the kickpanels and tweets, but I am trying to find another way...anyone have an idea of what I can do here?

Thanks in advance!
-Bryon

had similer issue

The tweeter wires are in the J2 connector pins 8 9 21 22 23 24 25 26

I made connectors from electronic parts

pics is needed

I am in portland as well and could help it needed

Thanks b3.0
I have the car down at Autohaus Bayern right now getting the wiring figured out. They cut me a really good deal on labor, and freed up some extra time for me to take care of a few things today.
That damn j2 pin eh? The j2 connector had the lines going into the amp from the head unit (in all of the diagrams that I have found), and what I needed to run from my crossovers in the rear were the lines coming out from the amp to the speakers.

Originally Posted by PDX M Coupe

Thanks b3.0
I have the car down at Autohaus Bayern right now getting the wiring figured out. They cut me a really good deal on labor, and freed up some extra time for me to take care of a few things today.
That damn j2 pin eh? The j2 connector had the lines going into the amp from the head unit (in all of the diagrams that I have found), and what I needed to run from my crossovers in the rear were the lines coming out from the amp to the speakers.

Dunno if this would've helped, but here's another diagram etc. from my 2002 M roadster:

roadster audio

I will try to post the wiring diagram I have. I got it from a web site, can't remember who to credit.

Later tonight form the other computer, did not have it yesterday

b

Thanks for your help everyone.

I am all wired up! There is only one problem though...there is some sort of fluttering sound coming from the JL sub in the stock box. It just doesn't sound as clean as I had hoped. I wonder if this is because the box is ported, and JL recommends a sealed encloser for this sub?

Originally Posted by PDX M Coupe

Thanks for your help everyone.

I am all wired up! There is only one problem though...there is some sort of fluttering sound coming from the JL sub in the stock box. It just doesn't sound as clean as I had hoped. I wonder if this is because the box is ported, and JL recommends a sealed encloser for this sub?

Did you fill the box with polyfil foam? Did you cover it with dynamat?

Originally Posted by JonM

Did you fill the box with polyfil foam? Did you cover it with dynamat?

Yes, I filled the box with Polyfil last night, but I have yet to dynamat the box. Do you think that will help? Does your 6W0 produce nice clean bass?

Originally Posted by PDX M Coupe

Yes, I filled the box with Polyfil last night, but I have yet to dynamat the box. Do you think that will help? Does your 6W0 produce nice clean bass?

Yep and yep. Sounds perfect. I think dynamat will help. Make sure you are not hearing a rattle from interior trim. I may add a second 6W0, but it will be in another enclosure obviously.

Originally Posted by JonM

Yep and yep. Sounds perfect. I think dynamat will help. Make sure you are not hearing a rattle from interior trim. I may add a second 6W0, but it will be in another enclosure obviously.

It is definitely not a rattle from another piece of interior trim, it is coming directly from the speaker itself.

Regarding the polyfil, how much did you use? I bought a two lb bag of it, and it only took a few handfuls to have the box loosely filled.

Originally Posted by PDX M Coupe

It is definitely not a rattle from another piece of interior trim, it is coming directly from the speaker itself.

Regarding the polyfil, how much did you use? I bought a two lb bag of it, and it only took a few handfuls to have the box loosely filled.

Not much. Pretty loose. Live with the "problem" for a while and see if it goes away. No idea how to fix.

Originally Posted by JonM

Not much. Pretty loose. Live with the "problem" for a while and see if it goes away. No idea how to fix.

In the "big book of car audio" thread you said that you used a 2 lb bag of the poly fill. How much of the bag did you use? I used about 20% of a 20 ounce bag...

Also, you have an email from Andy about some leather stuff.. Was it you that made the leather amp cover for the rear hatch of the coupe? Care to make another one?
thanks
Bryon

Originally Posted by PDX M Coupe

In the "big book of car audio" thread you said that you used a 2 lb bag of the poly fill. How much of the bag did you use? I used about 20% of a 20 ounce bag...

Sounds about right I think.

I did the leather work on this amp cover:

But Shawn did the wood work.

Yes, that is the one that I am referring to. That is what I am wanting to do, I think...So would you be able to do something like this again? How thick, and what type of wood did you use?

Originally Posted by PDX M Coupe

Yes, that is the one that I am referring to. That is what I am wanting to do, I think...So would you be able to do something like this again? How thick, and what type of wood did you use?

I don't remember. Shawn sent me the wood piece already done. I think it was 1/2" or 3/4" MDF actually. I'll do the woodworking for you for X amount of money, but you would have to send me a fully dimensioned drawing. That way if it doesn't fit, it's your problem.

Originally Posted by JonM

I did the leather work on this amp cover:

But Shawn did the wood work.

Okay, now I know what Shawn's Avatar is (other than it being the ///M Logo, I didn't have a clue).

Originally Posted by PDX M Coupe

Yes, that is the one that I am referring to. That is what I am wanting to do, I think...So would you be able to do something like this again? How thick, and what type of wood did you use?

The top is 1/2" MDF. I think I used 1x2 for the frame.

JL Sub problem is fixed!

Here is what I did:

The wiring going to the stock sub box is channeled through a divet around the edge of the speaker, and is surrounded by some foam tape stuff. I peeled back this foam, and sealed up the divet and around the wires with black hot glue. I then proceded to seal around the outside of the MDF ring, and fill a few extra holes on the outside of the ring with the hot glue. This resulted in eliminating about 90% of adverse noise/flutter. I then plugged the factory port, and 100% of the flutter is gone. I am left with nice clean bass that is free from any offending noises.

As far as the floor goes, I decided to build a false floor constructed out of laminated peg board (the stuff you hang tools and things from in the garage). In between the the amp and crossovers are 3" styrofoam strips about 3" wide in aggregate dimmensions providing a large amount of structural stability. The holes in the peg board allow the heat from the amp to escape. I covered the board with my ///M mat on the rear hatch, and have absoultely no heat issues! I will be posting pics probably tomorrow or the next day.

Thanks for all of your suggestions and help!