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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #126  
Old 10-24-2009, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chivas View Post
bought the same pump in home depot when the gf's hair clogged up the tub and it pooled up. had to remove all the water before adding the de-clogger.
Home Depot! Never thought about that!

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  #127  
Old 11-24-2009, 08:38 AM
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Nice balanced thread on the topic of wide weight viscosities here with references here and there ...


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  #128  
Old 01-07-2010, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
More from VW TDI club. These guys are very clever, using copper tubing for the engine dipstick
Another potential (albeit pricey) option ...
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect....6792/p798.html

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  #129  
Old 02-02-2010, 09:43 AM
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For the record, even though it's for a 740iL, there is a nice DIY on changing your oil here ...

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  #130  
Old 02-02-2010, 03:18 PM
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I have a Mityvac 7400 which I was able to use twice to extract my oil.

The first time it worked like a charm, the second time (a year later) oil began to come out of the T handle for some reason. I wrapped a rag around the leak and manged to finish the job. I next contacted Mityvac and they claim the part that is bad is non-serviceable and since my vac is over a year old not covered under warranty.

Well I just happend to be checking extractors on Amazon and low and behold another BMW over complained about the exact same issue I had! They stated that Mityvac said that the 7400 unit is NOT compatible with synthetic motor oil and thus will fail.

RE: "I used this on my 2002 BMW and it seemed to work great, but the next time I went to use it- oil started coming out of the T-Handle where air normally is the only thing that escapes. I called the manufacturer, and they advised me that some synthetic oils (Mobil 1 in my case) can cause the seals in the lower part of the canister to degrade and will allow oil to bypass. They informed me that it would be covered under warranty- but Tool Topia is not working with me. When you call the line for returns, they have you leave a message- nobody ever calls you back either. I have called 4 times in the last 6 days- and nothing. "
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  #131  
Old 02-07-2010, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheStig View Post
FYI- The V8's take 8.0 quarts of oil if you want to include them.
I updated the picture summary (see below).

Also reference nice diagrams in this oil thread.






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  #132  
Old 05-01-2010, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I updated the picture summary (see below).

Also reference nice diagrams in this oil thread.






Great thread... I changed my e39 2002 530i today with RedLine 5w-30. Had my print out of this thread and the Bently manual out there with me... noticed that the Mann filter 'kit' lacks the #5 rubber o-rings called out for replacement in the Bently manual. Your pic added shows them but not the PN, I'll have to check out Realoem.com and then order a few for the next go around. I used the gravity method, never had an issue crawling under a car and feel it is the only way to get all the oil out of the pan.
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  #133  
Old 05-01-2010, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooray! View Post
noticed that the Mann filter 'kit' lacks the #5 rubber o-rings called out for replacement in the Bently manual.
You're sharp. That seems like a good call.

BTW, I'll bet cn90 and others would recommend, while you're getting O-rings, to get the power-steering cap o-ring also!
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  #134  
Old 05-02-2010, 04:36 AM
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5 O-ring 11 42 1 744 001 7,0X2,5MM 2 0.001 kg / 0.002 lb 0.40 $0.53

#5 o-ring information from BMWfans.com.
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  #135  
Old 05-04-2010, 09:50 PM
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Choose motor oil by quality, cold-start, viscosity, type, and cost (not by brand!)

Update: 540M-Sport kindly pointed out some inaccuracies in my criteria for selecting oil for the E39 in this post. I left out some of his recommendations (because I don't believe or understand them ... so for more, go to that post for details).

In the interest of helping people choose motor oil for their E39, I will fix the recommendation in a subsequent thread but can't do it to the original post so I just point it out here.

Choose motor oil by:
(a) quality,
(b) cold start,
(c) viscosity,
(d) type, &
(e) cost (in that order)

Never by brand!

a) QUALITY: Perhaps the most contentious of oil-selection issues shouldn't be an issue at all, because quality selection is (almost) as simple as reading the can. The can should have the BMW Long-Life 2001 approval stamp:
- BMW LL-01 Approved (not "recommended for LL01" applications).

Note (thanks to 540M-Sport): LL-04 (long life 2004) spec oils are NOT recommended for BMW's with gasoline engines in North America. From BimmerFile.com "What we can tell you now is that for most newer gasoline BMW models in the US the required oil must meet BMW LL-01 (approved not recommended for) specifications. There is further confusion because BMW LL-04 is recommended in gasoline and diesel engines for most other countries. In the US it will be required only for the new Advanced Diesels. The issue with the LL-04 oil in the US is that even though the sulfur content in gasoline has decreased in the US it is still not consistent. The inconsistency in levels makes the LL-04 oils not recommended in the US gasoline engines. Since the new sulfur requirements of diesel in the US require consistent levels LL-04 can be utilized in these applications."

The problem is BMW LL-01 approved oil is listed on the can of very few motor oils readily available in the USA (e.g., the only Mobil-1 that is approved is the Mobil1 SAE 0w40 variety; and you might be able to find German-made Castrol Syntec SAE 0w30 European Formula if you're resourceful, or even Pentospeed SAE 0W30, or Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30, or Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30, etc. For more choices, please see this document listing the available LL-01/LL-04 motor oils available for sale in the USA.)

Strictly speaking, in the USA, for E39s, LL-01 is all you need to know about quality. Never assume a brand name automatically equates to the desired quality. It doesn't. Never did. Never will. Not all Mobil1 oils are LL-01 approved, for example.
- If you can't find LL-01 rated oil, then some will tell you any fully synthetic oil rated ACEA A3/B3 or better meets BMW specifications; but again, the problem is finding an oil locally available that has ACEA A3/B3 printed on the can.
- Otherwise, historically, at least in the United States, the main reliable measure of quality has been the American Petroleum Institute (API) "Service" rating (buy API SL for older BMWs or API SM or better for newer BMWs) printed on every can of oil sold in the US. This more readily available API quality designation is chronological, i.e., SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG, SH, SI, SJ, SK, SL, & SM. Over time, this API quality designation moved higher and higher in the alphabet as more and more problems are specified and overcome by the petroleum engineers (note SA is special in that it is unspecified, and note each specification exceeds the prior specification).
- Note that anyone who says "use Castrol" or "Mobil1", without suggesting the BMW or ACEA or API quality rating, isn't providing enough information to make the right quality decision for you; brand and price and label hype are meaningless for this purpose (for example, even some BMW-branded oils don't meet BMW specifications for M cars).

b) COLD START: Depending on where you live, get an appropriate Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) winter (W) rating. Bear in mind, the SAE W rating only holds true for the first few minutes no matter what climate you live in. This rating is probably the least understood of all motor oil descriptors, but, since most wear occurs at startup, it's an important measure. Since engine oil viscosity decreases logarithmically with temperature, the SAE W rating of, say "SAE 10W", tells you that the oil "acts like" a straight SAE 10 weight oil would act at 0 Fahrenheit (F). Remember, it is NEVER an SAE 10 weight oil! It just acts like an SAE 10 would at 0F (i.e., before the engine is warmed up). After the engine is warm (212F) the SAE W rating is meaningless. It is important to understand that a straight 30 weight oil acts exactly the same at engine temperatures as does a 5W30, or 10W30, or 15W30 motor oil. It is also important to understand the logarithmic decrease in viscosity still applies at all temperatures below 212F, even though the only listed temperature is the 0F W rating. See included charts for more details.

c) VISCOSITY: This doesn't really matter as much as people think it does. Depending on engine factors, you'll choose a warmed-up SAE oil viscosity (measured as kinematic or Saybolt) that suits you and your engine. Just pick a warmed-up viscosity that your owners manual lists as an option. There will be more than one choice. That's pretty much it. People make a much bigger issue of selecting the warmed-up viscosity than they need to.

Realize viscosity spread doesn't come for free. While most here say the viscosity spread drawbacks are vastly less in synthetics, bear in mind, especially in dino juice, the greater the spread between the SAE W rating and the SAE warmed-up rating (measured at 212F)
, the greater the tendency of the dino oil to carbonize in your engine. Given that little-known fact, especially if you're using dino juice, the simplest advice is to lean toward the closest multi-weight spread listed in your owners manual that fits the ambient temperature gradient you expect. It's really that simple.

d) TYPE: Almost all BMW posters recommended synthetic motor oil for longevity, reduced wear and tear on gears, reduced incidence of oil oxidation, and lower sludge formation (as compared with similar quality traditional motor oils); but there are always tradeoffs, not the least of which are price considerations.

e) COST: Duh. As low as you can get. Buy Internet. Buy bulk. Stock ahead. If you buy good-quality (as measured by the API or BMW rating) oil, brand is nearly meaningless (see Consumer Reports' canonical diatribe on motor oil quality consistency over time).

Note (thanks to 540M-Sport): One really needs to read the specification sheets which are available online for most oils. You will find pretty significant differences between 5W-30 synthetic oils, both in viscosity at cold start up, and at operating temperatures.

If you want to truly be an oil expert, read here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/aehaas/

Last edited by bluebee; 05-05-2010 at 09:53 PM.
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  #136  
Old 05-05-2010, 04:14 AM
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I'll have to check to see if RedLine meets this spec, sold by Bav Auto for BMWs.
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  #137  
Old 05-05-2010, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Nice balanced thread on the topic of wide weight viscosities here with references here and there ...


BlueBee, you understand this info is not completely correct for synthetic oils? I would bet that 80% of the owners on this forum follow BMW recommendations and use synthetic oils.

More info on the difference between synthetic and dino oils here:http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/aehaas/103.html
The important quote is this: "This is worth repeating: The synthetic 10W-30 weight oil is based on a heavier 30 weight oil while the mineral based 10W-30 oil is based on a thinner 10 weight oil. They are both similar at operating temperatures yet the 30 weight based synthetic is actually less thick at startup and much less honey - like at low temperatures. This is the opposite of what common sense dictates."

The full oil primer (all sections) is here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/aehaas/index.html
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  #138  
Old 05-05-2010, 03:53 PM
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I used the MityVac for the first time on the 540. Took an hour to drain the 7.5L

wish I saw that seachoice portable oil changer earlier. might buy that too...
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  #139  
Old 05-05-2010, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by z168 View Post
I used the MityVac for the first time on the 540. Took an hour to drain the 7.5L

wish I saw that seachoice portable oil changer earlier. might buy that too...
I'm still not clear on the advantage of sucking out the oil via the dipstick? Is it to simply prevent having to go under the car? I have used oil pumps on my boats where you cant get under the pan easily but always thought a pan drain was the best and more thorough way to empty old oil from an engine.

I actually enjoy the time under the car and get to inspect the suspension, clean things up, etc. maybe that is not the case for all.
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  #140  
Old 05-05-2010, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540 M-Sport View Post
I would bet that 80% of the owners on this forum ... use synthetic oils.
Everyone thinks that viscosity spread is free. It isn't. Very little is for free.

It's just a lot less bad for synthetics than it is for dino juice.

Thanks for reminding me of that. I come from the old school (nothing is for free and every good thing has a cost associated with it) so I minimize viscosity spread, even when using synthetics.

But, to be more accurate, I updated the recommendation on viscosity just now and I thank you for pointing that out.
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  #141  
Old 05-06-2010, 11:44 AM
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I'm still not clear on the advantage of sucking out the oil via the dipstick?
Having done it both ways, I'm not sure either. The Motive is such a pain (collapsing sides, incorrect valves, broken cheap clamps, etc.) that crawling under the car is easier.

I guess the draw is the cleanliness of it all ... (if/when vacuum extraction actually works).

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  #142  
Old 05-09-2010, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z168 View Post
I used the MityVac for the first time on the 540. Took an hour to drain the 7.5L

wish I saw that seachoice portable oil changer earlier. might buy that too..
.
Did you see my post earlier in this thread???? I bought the pump from them. They charged my card and never sent me, ignored my calls and emails, and didn't return my money.

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  #143  
Old 05-10-2010, 06:57 AM
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I bought the pump from them. They charged my card and never sent me, ignored my calls and emails, and didn't return my money.
Oh my! I didn't remember that. So we both had a bad experience with Motive.

Actually, for me, they sent the first pump with the wrong valves (and I was too styupid to realize it at first) ... but they were good about replacing it (the distributor drove up to San Jose from Morgan Hill to personally swap the parts).

But, even the right pump had the problems I noted:
a) The sides caved in without warning
b) The hose clamp broke after just one or two uses

Matt -- did you EVER get your money back?
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  #144  
Old 05-10-2010, 08:59 AM
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I've always had good results with my mityvac, I use synthetic oil. I have had it for a while and use it often around the house for my cars. I have used it to fill transmissions after a good cleaning as well. I guess they are hit or miss quality like so many other things in life.
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  #145  
Old 05-25-2010, 02:31 PM
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Well, after using the STP oil filter shown in post #1, and then a couple of Hengst filters as shown in post #54, I'm now ready for the Mann filters which I just bought a half dozen of to test out on my E39.

How come nobody told me I should have also gotten two additional small o-rings (see doru suggestion in this oil-change thread) for each oil change?

Does anyone else replace these two O rings when they change their oil?

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  #146  
Old 05-25-2010, 03:01 PM
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I don't know if everyone changes these two little o-rings as Doru suggested, but, for now, here's my tentative list of things to stock up for oil changes:

TOOLS:
- 36 mm 6-point socket wrench (required to remove the oil filter housing, normal oil filter sockets are not deep enough)
- 17 mm socket wrench (if you plan on also draining oil out of the engine oil drain pan)
- Torque wrench (18 foot pounds, 25 Nm, for both the oil filter housing & the the engine oil drain plug)
- Vacuum extractor (I don't recommend my Motive Power Extractor; many successfully use the Mityvac 7201 or 7400)
- Screw-cap two-gallon clear plastic containers (for transport of the old recycled motor oil)
- Nitrile gloves and shop towels and an oil pan (if you're going to also remove the 17mm engine-oil drain plug)
Hint: Measure the length of the plastic extractor hose (just in case); see reasons why here.

PARTS:
- Oil, 6.9 quarts for the I6, 8 quarts for the V8 (Hint: Buy oil by quality, cold/hot viscosity, type, and cost, in that order, as described here.)
- Oil filter (most recommend Mahle, Mann, or Hengst, in that order.)
- Large O-ring (91X4 inches O-ring, PN:11421741000) which usually comes with the oil filter
- Copper compression gasket for the 17mm drain plug (usually comes with the oil filter)
- Two small 7,0X2,5MM o-rings (PN:11421744001) for the stem inside the oil filter

QUESTION:
What does "91x4" and "7,0X2,5MM" mean for O rings?


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  #147  
Old 05-25-2010, 04:19 PM
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Mobil One deal

While in Costco yesterday, the latest flier has a coupon for $9 off on Mobil 1... if that's your oil choice. ymmv
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  #148  
Old 05-26-2010, 09:20 AM
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For xref, here's a related summary that will be useful to others (it's from this thread).



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  #149  
Old 05-27-2010, 04:42 PM
plninc plninc is offline
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I've been using the gravity method to change the oil in my vehicles for 30 years. I recently used the MityVac for the first time, and I don't see ever going back. Fast, clean, efficient. Sometimes you have the time to get under the car and inspect, etc., other times you just need to "get her done". I consistently change my oil every 5 to 6k miles, I drove my E34 for 230k miles and notwithstanding any other problems with the car, the engine always ticked like a clock.

Use what method works best for you, just change the oil more often the 15k miles! There are so many other things that can crap out on you, it just makes sense to get your nose in there every 5/6k miles or so.
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  #150  
Old 05-27-2010, 04:49 PM
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BTW, when ever you are buying oil filters, consider adding a couple spare copper drain washers, and one extra oil filter housing o-ring as spares. I have twice had damaged copper crush washers including with the oil filter, and having spares made for a simple (no delays or headaches running to the store) to correct. Never needed the o-ring, but I know that day is coming... If you purchase from autohausaz.com, they also offer the rubber isolation damper pieces that the oil filter housing sits on (540) for only $1.88 each versus $9 each at the dealer. Get a couple spares of those, so when they break, you can swap those out quickly too.
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