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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 05-23-2010, 07:31 PM
mmarzo123 mmarzo123 is offline
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I was finally able to get the two motors to reengage! things are looking like they can come together!
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  #27  
Old 05-23-2010, 08:06 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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Yay
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  #28  
Old 05-29-2010, 09:08 AM
mmarzo123 mmarzo123 is offline
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Angry this sucks

so i got the part i needed the other day but it still wont fit in right....this is an impossible fix i have no idea what to do anymore. the tonneau cover is still jutting out there is no hint as to whats wrong and im just pissed off. convertibles are a real pain to handle
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  #29  
Old 05-29-2010, 11:50 AM
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Mein Auto: '96 328iC, '04 325Ci
NEED PICTURES SO WE CAN TRY TO HELP! No way we can interpret what "jutting out" means or give constructive advice without actually being able to see what the problem is.........
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  #30  
Old 05-29-2010, 06:09 PM
mmarzo123 mmarzo123 is offline
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Pictures

Here ya go sorry it took so long to upload the pictures. Hope it helps!
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  #31  
Old 05-29-2010, 06:30 PM
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Mein Auto: E36 328i, E60 530xit 535i
I know how ya feel kinda, I got my bimmer 328i for my 16th bDay and sinse then, (5 months) my car has spent more time in the shop than it has in our driveway....... I love the car, but I do like to drive it instead of just letting it eat money in the shops....

I even have been doing all the work on it I can, but I leave the hard stuff ( tranny's ) for the pros to do.....
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  #32  
Old 05-29-2010, 07:04 PM
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It looks like you've got several things going there. First it seems like the driver side arm that the lid mounts to may be bent? Regardless you can take out all the shims on that side and that will bring it down a little bit. It also looks like the top isn't fully retracted.
When you ran the re-synch procedure is that as far as the top and the lid pulled down?
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  #33  
Old 05-29-2010, 08:50 PM
mmarzo123 mmarzo123 is offline
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um i haven been able to run the sync procedure cause the top is not working....nothing is working to be exact i press the button and nothing happens even though both motors are engaged
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  #34  
Old 05-29-2010, 08:53 PM
mmarzo123 mmarzo123 is offline
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@ jackrules

yea man this sucks i get it and boom it breaks. i mean sure i might have made it do something its not supposed to but common this is "european engineering" you think it would withstand what i consider a little love tap lol, it wasn't anything too serious. and from what ive heard BMW's are a pain to handle financially. so im thinking if this doesent get fixed ill sell it as is and save up for another car...its not worth the trouble. and if i take it to the pros ill probably have to spen $400 for a problem like this...maybe even more.
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  #35  
Old 05-30-2010, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarzo123 View Post
um i haven been able to run the sync procedure cause the top is not working....nothing is working to be exact i press the button and nothing happens even though both motors are engaged
Understand. First thing, the top and tonneau cover will not move at all if the trunk lid is open, so if you are going to run the re-synch the trunk must be closed. When the re-synch runs it pulls the top all the way down into the storage compartment and then pulls the lid all the way down.

You're going to need to ensure you are getting power to the top controller and motors. Check all the fuses in the fuse box and ensure they're good. There's also an in line fuse for top power that comes off the battery in the trunk. Be certain to check that one too.

There's also a microswitch in the trunk in the upper right area. Check that to make sure it's switching when the trunk is closed. If that micro switch isn't switching the top controller thinks the trunk is open and nothing will happen with the top. The storage compartment lid will interfere with the trunk lid if it's open so this micro switch is a safety interlock to prevent it from happening.

I think once you can get power to the top and run the re-synch everything may pull down to where it should be. You might have to do some adjusting with the lid with the shims (for height) and the slotted areas in the supports (forward and backward) to get it fine tuned.
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  #36  
Old 05-30-2010, 08:56 AM
mmarzo123 mmarzo123 is offline
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alright some good news. i got that part i needed attached and hooked on with the bolts. so now the tonneau cover is attached to the motor that runs it. since i had removed the trunk from the car to do this is simply pushed the trunk back into position without screwing it in and i locked it. so even though the trunk is not crewed into the the car it is still closed and locked. but i need to open it again and hot shot the battery since it died again (FML!). now that the tonneau cover is attached there is still a height difference between the left and right side, about 1 cm or 2. yet i think once the re-sync is complete that might go away. also another problem is that when the tonneau cover is in its upright position the hooks that lock the cover when it is down are already down in the lock mode. will re-sync fix that?
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  #37  
Old 05-30-2010, 10:16 AM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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This is the same problem i had with my car when my mom ownd it. minus the bent bracket

On the passenger side of the car the tonneau cover there is a pressure switch if this switch IS pressured then you can open your trunk. if its not. you cant


At least thats the case on my car.
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  #38  
Old 05-30-2010, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarzo123 View Post
alright some good news. i got that part i needed attached and hooked on with the bolts. so now the tonneau cover is attached to the motor that runs it. since i had removed the trunk from the car to do this is simply pushed the trunk back into position without screwing it in and i locked it. so even though the trunk is not crewed into the the car it is still closed and locked. but i need to open it again and hot shot the battery since it died again (FML!). now that the tonneau cover is attached there is still a height difference between the left and right side, about 1 cm or 2. yet i think once the re-sync is complete that might go away. also another problem is that when the tonneau cover is in its upright position the hooks that lock the cover when it is down are already down in the lock mode. will re-sync fix that?
I believe that you want to get the tonneau cover locks into the unlocked position before you run the resynch, otherwise the tonneau cover will get pulled down on top of them instead of into them. You should be able to release them manually.
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  #39  
Old 05-30-2010, 09:41 PM
mmarzo123 mmarzo123 is offline
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@ Mr.(W) right

hey any idea how to release them manually?
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  #40  
Old 05-31-2010, 05:28 AM
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Pull on the cables shown in the yellow circle. These two bowden cables go to the latches.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Tonneau_Lock_Cables.pdf (213.7 KB, 180 views)
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  #41  
Old 05-31-2010, 08:38 AM
mmarzo123 mmarzo123 is offline
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when you pull on those it closes the locks though...
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  #42  
Old 05-31-2010, 12:01 PM
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Sorry! You are correct. Those cables pull the locks down. To release the locks you pull the emergency release lever under the rear seat. It should disengage the motors and the locks. If it doesn't you'll need to check the Bowden cables and linkages to make sure the mechanisms are all connected.
Once you've got them unlocked you'll of course have the get the motors re-engaged.
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  #43  
Old 05-31-2010, 12:45 PM
mmarzo123 mmarzo123 is offline
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hahaha its cool. yea when i pull the disengage the motors just fall out of their place (they become disengaged.) but nothing happens to the locks
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  #44  
Old 06-19-2010, 05:36 PM
mmarzo123 mmarzo123 is offline
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still not getting anywhere! does anyone kno how much this would cost to fix at a repair shop?
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