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The Detail Department
Detailing tips, tricks to keep your bimmer in showroom condition.

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  #101  
Old 08-06-2009, 09:57 AM
rdorman rdorman is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 imola red 740i Sport
I have tried it all when it comes to chips, old school fill and sand, air brush, langka, dr colorchip. Mind you, I am picky.

While my favorite technique for larger chips in small quantities is the old fill and sand (I use the eraser/polish technique often spoken off)... it really does not take all that long. I had a different issue on one of my cars. The edge of the hood on my 7 looked like some one had ran a sand blaster over it. Hundreds of very small chips. You could only see them from a few+ feet away and to really make it obvious, you needed to get down and sight along the panel. No way was I going to fill each and everyone by hand and finish out with my preferred technique.

Enter Dr ColorChip. Following the directions to the letter, I tried is on a small area on my hood. WOW. Could not believe the difference. All those tiny 'chips' virually disappeared. The larger ones still where concave but you could hit it again to build it up (that works) or resort to the old method. Either way, it saved me huge amounts of time... or a trip to the body shop. Now, you really have to look much more closely to tell that they where ever even there.

Bottom line, for large amounts of very small chips... give it a try.
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  #102  
Old 09-03-2009, 05:23 PM
bohemianjsr bohemianjsr is offline
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Mein Auto: 01 ZSP 325I, 97 Toyota LC
eraser, toothpic, polish technique

If someone could take some time to make a video or post pics on the DIY Eraser, Polish technique (old pics no longer visible) that would be greatly appreciated.
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  #103  
Old 11-05-2009, 08:35 AM
hdrewh hdrewh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bohemianjsr View Post
If someone could take some time to make a video or post pics on the DIY Eraser, Polish technique (old pics no longer visible) that would be greatly appreciated.
+1

Thanks.
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  #104  
Old 07-20-2010, 10:35 AM
BRAD EYRE BRAD EYRE is offline
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Mein Auto: 2006 330i
Hello,
Just registered to find this article on paint repairs. Looks like the author moved on. Anyone have the accompanying pix? Looks as if only the links were posted from another location.
Thank you.
/r
Brad
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  #105  
Old 07-20-2010, 12:49 PM
CompSciBimmer CompSciBimmer is offline
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Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2008 528i
Quote:
Originally Posted by BRAD EYRE View Post
Hello,
Just registered to find this article on paint repairs. Looks like the author moved on. Anyone have the accompanying pix? Looks as if only the links were posted from another location.
Thank you.
/r
Brad
I would really appreciate the images as well. I feel as though this sticky is significantly less useful for us detailing newbies without the images.
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  #106  
Old 08-18-2010, 08:18 PM
compusatman compusatman is offline
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Mein Auto: 2005 M3 Vert
OK, this thread used to be 5 pages deep. Anyway, DetailDan, Big A, and others, if you read this maybe you will respond otherwise I will go to your display threads and post. I have a vertical scratch to the primer. I have read this instruction set over and over so I think I have it. Yes, I have a rotary. The scratch is vertical above the passenger rear wheel well about 6 inches from the edge up in the middle of the wheel well. My questions are: When does the clear go on? Since it is a vertical scratch do I need to leave the paint thick? Does the bottom of the scratch need prepping other than to clean with alcohol? Any need to use primer? No, it is not down to the metal but close. It seems to me that if clear is not used then there will always be a shadow.

TIA
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  #107  
Old 10-09-2010, 11:54 AM
cruisingdog cruisingdog is offline
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Mein Auto: z4 2.5i roadster
I would stay away from a professional random orbital sander unless you have experience. I'm happy with my portercable 7424

I would advise reading this (very good info)

http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/

http://www.detailedimage.com/

Quote:
Originally Posted by truelies View Post
I bought a bosch 5" Random Orbital sander. The speed is 7000-12000 rpm. How to put the foam pad on it? I didn't use a sander before. Also where to buy whose foam pads?
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  #108  
Old 10-25-2011, 08:16 AM
gpeng gpeng is offline
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Mein Auto: e39 530i w/Sport Pkg
Quote:
Originally Posted by compusatman View Post
OK, this thread used to be 5 pages deep. Anyway, DetailDan, Big A, and others, if you read this maybe you will respond otherwise I will go to your display threads and post. I have a vertical scratch to the primer. I have read this instruction set over and over so I think I have it. Yes, I have a rotary. The scratch is vertical above the passenger rear wheel well about 6 inches from the edge up in the middle of the wheel well. My questions are: When does the clear go on? Since it is a vertical scratch do I need to leave the paint thick? Does the bottom of the scratch need prepping other than to clean with alcohol? Any need to use primer? No, it is not down to the metal but close. It seems to me that if clear is not used then there will always be a shadow.

TIA
Am I the only one searching far actual before and after shots of chips on a car?

Online videos are low quality and only "appear" to work. I have yet to see high quality before and after video/photos with a 50/50 panel test to show this.

Anyone?
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  #109  
Old 10-25-2011, 09:24 AM
cruisingdog cruisingdog is offline
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Mein Auto: z4 2.5i roadster
Found this: Might help!

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...pped-car-paint
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  #110  
Old 04-15-2012, 04:26 AM
sigma95 sigma95 is offline
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Location: Houston
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Mein Auto: Tahoe
+1 on Langka

A few notes before purchasing though
1) I found I did not need to buy the full $40 paint chip repair kit, that merely the Blob Eliminator ($20) and some of the micro brushes. A credit card covered with a cotton tshirt, combined with rubbing alcohol to prep the area, and a paint sealant of your choosing work just as well as what's included in the full kit.

2) You must purchase the touch up paint stick from BMW or other aftermarket maker of touch up paints to use the Langka product.

3) Since I have a metallic paint, Langka recommends the "wet" method of applying their product which requires very careful, light passes of the shirt-covered card to spread a drop of paint into the chip/scratch without pulling the paint out of the scratch. I found BMW touch up paint became tacky so quickly, that I just created huge blobs and smears that took forever to eliminate. Instead, I used a hybrid method of the Colorchip dab/smear technique (dab of paint at one edge of chip/smear with bare or nitrile-gloved finger pulling paint into the chip), but also Langka's "wet" Blob Eliminator method to near perfection in filling almost 200 chips in my hood and doors with only the two largest chips showing any sign of repair and even that was negligible.

4) If using the "wet" method, DO NOT LET SMEARED PAINT DRY MORE THAN JUST A FEW MINUTES!!! Otherwise you will be reacquainted with the term "elbow grease". And if you have more than 50 overdry chips to Eliminate, YOU will be the one Eliminated (think hand waxing your entire car x5).

5) Trust the process. After several chips, I discovered how aggressive I could be removing blobs. Pretty firm at first, then lighten the pressure as the blob of paint dissipates and vanishes to reveal a professional looking repair. I could not see one of the 150 or so chips I repaired, even in bright sun or under fluorescent lighting.

Looks greats for small to medium chips. Anything larger than a pencil eraser may take a few attempts to build up enough paint and then you're left with a filled chip with matte-appearing paint in a chip (quite unsightly) and quite possibly better left for the body shop. THINNNNN application of clear coat included with the BMW touch up stick made for an adequate, but not invisible repair.

Langka was not great for narrow scratches down to the primer as the TU paint would not adhere to the groove and kept getting pulled out of the repair area. Repeat process starting at step 2 until you get it just right.

Well worth the cost vs the shop in my case.
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Last edited by sigma95; 04-15-2012 at 04:29 AM. Reason: typo
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  #111  
Old 10-31-2012, 01:56 PM
Sportsdad's Avatar
Sportsdad Sportsdad is online now
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Mein Auto: 4Runner-BMW
Quote:
Originally Posted by CompSciBimmer View Post
I would really appreciate the images as well. I feel as though this sticky is significantly less useful for us detailing newbies without the images.
Sorry, I took the * images down a long time ago (I am 'guest84). I have them archived I THINK at home...I'll check later to see if I still have these images and re-host them.

Basically after sanding with 1600-200 grit, it looks like hell.
After using machine polish (in this case, Griots 1, 2 and 3) it gets all shiney again.

Edit: *Could not find the originals. Sorry!

Last edited by Sportsdad; 11-13-2012 at 11:02 AM.
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  #112  
Old 07-11-2013, 08:03 AM
daswagking daswagking is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 530i
Fix the pictures please!
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  #113  
Old 08-05-2013, 12:20 PM
guitar1969 guitar1969 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2011 BMW 535i Sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by JD650 View Post
Does this really works as it claims?
Dr Colorchips doesn't work for beans unless it is very small pin type chips from my experience. Bought it a few years back and gave up. The Langka process seems promising though but it sounds like there can be issues with that as well. I just bought some Langka blob eliminator now and will give that a go.
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Last edited by guitar1969; 08-05-2013 at 12:34 PM.
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  #114  
Old 12-29-2013, 07:08 AM
Hivolts Hivolts is offline
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Mein Auto: 335d, Powerstroke
Nice thread. Subscribing. For the very light scratches...like a white scratch on a black car that you can't feel, I find that Meguire's 2X scratch remover works better than Nu Finish Scratch Doctor. It seems the Nu Finish product is a little finer so doesn't remove the scratch. Neither one leaves a haze or swirl marks.
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  #115  
Old 01-04-2014, 05:00 AM
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MatWiz MatWiz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportsdad View Post
Sorry, I took the * images down a long time ago (I am 'guest84). I have them archived I THINK at home...I'll check later to see if I still have these images and re-host them.

Basically after sanding with 1600-200 grit, it looks like hell.
After using machine polish (in this case, Griots 1, 2 and 3) it gets all shiney again.

Edit: *Could not find the originals. Sorry!
Too bad. I remember this thread and pictures from years ago, and I thought that this is probably the BEST rock chips and scratches repair thread I have EVER seen anywhere.

Sportsdad. If I'm at your neighborhood, I'll make sure to go and key scratch your car so you can take new pictures.

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  #116  
Old 06-18-2014, 01:13 PM
gannycy gannycy is offline
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Mein Auto: 2014 640i Gran Coupe
I think I am going to attempt to repair a scratch on my 640i GC (pic of scratch attached) using OP's method. Other than cleaning the scratch area, should any other prep work be done before applying the OEM touch-up paint? The edges on my scratch are rough and I'm wondering whether a light sanding before applying the OEM touch-up paint would be beneficial or detrimental. Also, it appears that the scratch is all the way through the clear-coat but I was wondering whether it might be a good idea to first attempt a sand and polish before attempting to apply touch up paint (and then sand and polish).
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