Method for fixing deep scratches and rock chips

I have tried it all when it comes to chips, old school fill and sand, air brush, langka, dr colorchip. Mind you, I am picky.

While my favorite technique for larger chips in small quantities is the old fill and sand (I use the eraser/polish technique often spoken off)... it really does not take all that long. I had a different issue on one of my cars. The edge of the hood on my 7 looked like some one had ran a sand blaster over it. Hundreds of very small chips. You could only see them from a few+ feet away and to really make it obvious, you needed to get down and sight along the panel. No way was I going to fill each and everyone by hand and finish out with my preferred technique.

Enter Dr ColorChip. Following the directions to the letter, I tried is on a small area on my hood. WOW. Could not believe the difference. All those tiny 'chips' virually disappeared. The larger ones still where concave but you could hit it again to build it up (that works) or resort to the old method. Either way, it saved me huge amounts of time... or a trip to the body shop. Now, you really have to look much more closely to tell that they where ever even there.

Bottom line, for large amounts of very small chips... give it a try.

If someone could take some time to make a video or post pics on the DIY Eraser, Polish technique (old pics no longer visible) that would be greatly appreciated.

Originally Posted by bohemianjsr

If someone could take some time to make a video or post pics on the DIY Eraser, Polish technique (old pics no longer visible) that would be greatly appreciated.

+1

Thanks.

Hello,
Just registered to find this article on paint repairs. Looks like the author moved on. Anyone have the accompanying pix? Looks as if only the links were posted from another location.
Thank you.
/r
Brad

Originally Posted by BRAD EYRE

Hello,
Just registered to find this article on paint repairs. Looks like the author moved on. Anyone have the accompanying pix? Looks as if only the links were posted from another location.
Thank you.
/r
Brad

I would really appreciate the images as well. I feel as though this sticky is significantly less useful for us detailing newbies without the images.

OK, this thread used to be 5 pages deep. Anyway, DetailDan, Big A, and others, if you read this maybe you will respond otherwise I will go to your display threads and post. I have a vertical scratch to the primer. I have read this instruction set over and over so I think I have it. Yes, I have a rotary. The scratch is vertical above the passenger rear wheel well about 6 inches from the edge up in the middle of the wheel well. My questions are: When does the clear go on? Since it is a vertical scratch do I need to leave the paint thick? Does the bottom of the scratch need prepping other than to clean with alcohol? Any need to use primer? No, it is not down to the metal but close. It seems to me that if clear is not used then there will always be a shadow.

TIA

I would stay away from a professional random orbital sander unless you have experience. I'm happy with my portercable 7424

I would advise reading this (very good info)

http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/

http://www.detailedimage.com/

Originally Posted by truelies

I bought a bosch 5" Random Orbital sander. The speed is 7000-12000 rpm. How to put the foam pad on it? I didn't use a sander before. Also where to buy whose foam pads?

Originally Posted by compusatman

OK, this thread used to be 5 pages deep. Anyway, DetailDan, Big A, and others, if you read this maybe you will respond otherwise I will go to your display threads and post. I have a vertical scratch to the primer. I have read this instruction set over and over so I think I have it. Yes, I have a rotary. The scratch is vertical above the passenger rear wheel well about 6 inches from the edge up in the middle of the wheel well. My questions are: When does the clear go on? Since it is a vertical scratch do I need to leave the paint thick? Does the bottom of the scratch need prepping other than to clean with alcohol? Any need to use primer? No, it is not down to the metal but close. It seems to me that if clear is not used then there will always be a shadow.

TIA

Am I the only one searching far actual before and after shots of chips on a car?

Online videos are low quality and only "appear" to work. I have yet to see high quality before and after video/photos with a 50/50 panel test to show this.

Anyone?

Found this: Might help!

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...pped-car-paint

+1 on Langka

A few notes before purchasing though
1) I found I did not need to buy the full $40 paint chip repair kit, that merely the Blob Eliminator ($20) and some of the micro brushes. A credit card covered with a cotton tshirt, combined with rubbing alcohol to prep the area, and a paint sealant of your choosing work just as well as what's included in the full kit.

2) You must purchase the touch up paint stick from BMW or other aftermarket maker of touch up paints to use the Langka product.

3) Since I have a metallic paint, Langka recommends the "wet" method of applying their product which requires very careful, light passes of the shirt-covered card to spread a drop of paint into the chip/scratch without pulling the paint out of the scratch. I found BMW touch up paint became tacky so quickly, that I just created huge blobs and smears that took forever to eliminate. Instead, I used a hybrid method of the Colorchip dab/smear technique (dab of paint at one edge of chip/smear with bare or nitrile-gloved finger pulling paint into the chip), but also Langka's "wet" Blob Eliminator method to near perfection in filling almost 200 chips in my hood and doors with only the two largest chips showing any sign of repair and even that was negligible.

4) If using the "wet" method, DO NOT LET SMEARED PAINT DRY MORE THAN JUST A FEW MINUTES!!! Otherwise you will be reacquainted with the term "elbow grease". And if you have more than 50 overdry chips to Eliminate, YOU will be the one Eliminated (think hand waxing your entire car x5).

5) Trust the process. After several chips, I discovered how aggressive I could be removing blobs. Pretty firm at first, then lighten the pressure as the blob of paint dissipates and vanishes to reveal a professional looking repair. I could not see one of the 150 or so chips I repaired, even in bright sun or under fluorescent lighting.

Looks greats for small to medium chips. Anything larger than a pencil eraser may take a few attempts to build up enough paint and then you're left with a filled chip with matte-appearing paint in a chip (quite unsightly) and quite possibly better left for the body shop. THINNNNN application of clear coat included with the BMW touch up stick made for an adequate, but not invisible repair.

Langka was not great for narrow scratches down to the primer as the TU paint would not adhere to the groove and kept getting pulled out of the repair area. Repeat process starting at step 2 until you get it just right.

Well worth the cost vs the shop in my case.

Originally Posted by CompSciBimmer

I would really appreciate the images as well. I feel as though this sticky is significantly less useful for us detailing newbies without the images.

Sorry, I took the * images down a long time ago (I am 'guest84). I have them archived I THINK at home...I'll check later to see if I still have these images and re-host them.

Basically after sanding with 1600-200 grit, it looks like hell.
After using machine polish (in this case, Griots 1, 2 and 3) it gets all shiney again.

Edit: *Could not find the originals. Sorry!