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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 07-29-2010, 11:59 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I ran some "spin tests" of the old parts versus the replacement parts:

Idler roller spin test (old): no turns, much force, will not "spin" per se
Idler roller spin test (new): 1/8 turn, much force, will not "spin" per se
Upper tensioner spin test (old): about 10 turns, bearing noise,low force
Upper tensioner spin test (new): about 1 1/2 turns, no noise low force
Lower tensioner spin test (old): about 10 turns, bearing noise,low force
Lower tensioner spin test (new): about 1 1/2 turns, no noise low force

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  #102  
Old 07-30-2010, 10:20 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Q1: How do you safely remove the pin from a tensioner off the car?
I would use a set of pliers, and slowly remove the pin.
Just a hint for the next person ...

I tried using pliars but I don't have a bench vise (note to self to get one) so I was holding it in my hands... and then I got to thinking of the tremendous force that was gonna be in my hands when/if that pin pulled out ...

Luckily for me, I didn't have the courage or strength to pull the pin out while the tensioner was held down in my hands.

So I put the old lower tensioner back on the car temporarily; and THEN pulled the pin out easily by turning clockwise with a 16mm wrench to loosen the tension on the pin.

In the "idealized DIY" (my DIYs never seem to be ideal) ... I'd write to remove the 5mm allen wrench (or 3/16ths SAE) pin from the lower tensioner once the belt is off.

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  #103  
Old 07-30-2010, 12:57 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Tensioner hints for the next person (and for an idealized DIY)

For the next person, here are some lessons learned about the confusing inconsistencies that caught me about the opposite nature of the pin and the tensioners (I learned, after the fact).

The SIZE of the tensioner temporary hold-fast pin:
- A 5mm allen wrench fits; 6mm does not fit
- A 3/16ths allen wrench fits; 7/32ths does not
Note: The L-shaped steel pin from the factory tensioner is 11/64ths round.

The hold-fast-pin status in order to ACCESS removal bolts:
- Upper mechanical tensioner: Pin OFF (no pin needed to remove tensioner)
- Lower mechanical tensioner: Pin ON (pin is required to remove tensioner)

The hold-fast-pin status (just) before you REMOVE the tensioner:
- Upper mechanical tensioner: Pin OFF
- Lower mechanical tensioner: Pin OFF (remove with bolts loosely secured)

The hold-fast-pin status on the NEW mechanical tensioners:
- Upper mechanical tensioner: Pin OFF (it does not come with a pin)
- Lower mechanical tensioner: Pin ON (it comes with the pin in place)

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  #104  
Old 07-30-2010, 02:34 PM
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I'm currently stuck because the last thread or two is stripped such that the fan keeps going on crooked.

Had I known about cn90's wonderful "trick" to get the fan nut on (cn90 fan-nut DIY here), I would not have stripped the water pump shaft outer thread or two.

Rather than rip it all down again (and wait for a new waterpump and fan and, while I'm at it, an entire very unplanned cooling system overhaul) ... I would rather just buy a (reverse threaded) tap for the water pump threads (or maybe even this thread file which I was pointed to by Dhoang).

QUESTION:
Q: Does anyone know the thread size for the water pump shaft?

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  #105  
Old 07-30-2010, 06:27 PM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Blue, had no idea you were going through all this! Give you lotta credit for tackling. If you have "buggered-up" the last couple threads in the water-pump, you can generally look at the threads visually and see which one is rolled and repair with a file. I can almost guarantee you if you had an extra set of hands to hold the fan blade perfectly straight while simultaneously turning the nut CC with a box wrench, the nut will catch without cross-threading.

Keep in mind this about batteries and chargers which is all an alternator is. The battery has a voltage "potential" which is determined when it is made. You generally have 6-2.1V cells inside the battery all in parallel to give the battery 12.6VDC "potential". In order to charge a battery, the charging device must put out more voltage than the potential of what it is charging. Without any difference between the battery voltage and the charger voltage, no current (amps) can flow. It is the difference in voltage that carries the current. The great the difference, the greater the current flow assuming the charger can generate the current. However, if you say put 25VDC to a 12VDC battery, if there is enough current capable of being generated by the charger, you will cook the battery. To tell if the alternator is functioning at all, just check battery voltage with car running. If it is not greater than say 13.5 volts, the alternator is dead. You could measure 13.5 at the battery with the car running and still have a bad alternator as the alternator may not be able to generate any current, but if the voltage does not EXCEED the voltage rating of the battery, the alternator is dead no matter how much current it is possible to generate. Same goes for your cell phone battery or a rechargeable flashlight battery. The charging device must produce more voltage than the device it is charging or you can fogeddabowdit!
Remember too that it took very little pressure for you to strip those last few threads on the WP and it will take just that much pressure to move the threads back into Place! Each time you try to start the nut crooked though, you make the threads worse. Get the fan blade straight to the WP, push it straight back with say a hammer handle while turning the nut counter clockwise and there is a good chance it will start. If you are careful you can hold the blade dead straight and rap lightly with a hammer as though you are trying to hammer the hut straight on and sometimes the nut will "jump" that first bad thread and go to the next thread and be fine from there. You can also take a bastard file and just bevel the end of the threaded part and it will render the first couple threads useless and not impede the fan from threading back on.
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  #106  
Old 07-30-2010, 06:44 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
Get the fan blade straight to the WP
I was wondering where you were in my time of need!

Finally, I resigned myself to reversing half of what I just finished putting on and then removing the fan shroud (which I was avoiding all this time because basically that means replace the cooling system but I don't have the parts even ordered yet.

Worse yet, following the Beisan instructions, I did OK on the fan shroud except I broke the nipple off the drivers side of the upper hose and lost the rivets on that same side; but at least I now can ACCESS the water pump threads!

The first thing I did was MEASURE the size ( probably M24x1.50 ):
Measuring with an SAE micrometer, the water pump threads are 0.939 inches in diameter (23.85 mm) with a pitch of 1.50. So, I'd think I need a 24 mm die with a pitch of 1.50 (I don't know if you measure threads from the tip of the thread or from the valley; I measured from the outside tip. 24mm would be 0.945" though, so it's not an exact science.) However, in the specific thread on those threads, it is explained I fixed the problem by removing the fan shroud and then having TONS of room (comparatively) to fix up the threads ... which I've done.

The good news is I now have a complete writeup for the shroud removal (complete with photos of representative mistakes! ... ) that I will post later for all to benefit from.

UPDATE: This thread implies it's an M25, not an M24???

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  #107  
Old 07-30-2010, 06:57 PM
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Instructions for removal of fan shroud in a 2002 BMW 525i

Lest I forget, here are hastily written instructions for removal of the fan shroud in the 2002 BMW 525i.

I tried to follow the Beisan DIY as much as possible; but I think I snapped MUCH better pictures of some of the steps (e.g., proper removal of the rivets and locations of hoses, etc.) than they did; but you should be able to follow their procedures as well as mine.

Pictures to follow later (I'll append to this post).

REMOVE SHROUD: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
- Raise the E39 with a jack and put on jack stands (or ramps)
- Remove the under-engine shroud pan (nine #2 Phillips one-twist bolts)
- Draw the hose sequence or snap photos of the underside shroud hose routing.
- Protect your eyes from falling dust with goggles (I didn't and wished I did).
- Locate the auxiliary pump at the bottom driver-side corner of the shroud.
- Disconnect the press-pull auxiliary coolant pump electrical connector
- Slide the auxiliary pump toward the center of the radiator out of the
fan shroud sleeve by lining up the hose in the clamp and tugging gently
- Disconnect both coolant hoses from the fan shroud bottom
- They are held on with two dual-hose clips five single-hose clips, four
of which are on the bottom of the radiator, and one is on the driver's
side about half way up the shroud on the engine side.
- From above, follow the wire out of the auxiliary water pump to the
AUC (stink) sensor on the driver's side in front of the alternator
just under the upper radiator hose elbow.
- Press the plastic clip on the stink sensor connector and pull up to
remove the AUC sensor from the fan shroud.
- Remove the diabolically German 2-inch by 3-inch AUC sensor housing
by wiggling and coercing it, mostly pushing up from the bottom of
the AUC sensor housing and pulling the top of the AUC sensor housing
away from the shroud. Then, once it's a bit loose, switch directions
of force by pushing down on the AUC sensor housing, pulling the bottom
of the AUC sensor housing away from the shroud. You have to just do it.
- With a 3/16th flathead screwdriver pry out (only) the (center)
plastic rivet pin on the driver's side of the shroud near the upper
hose until you can get needle nose pliers on it to pull that center
pin out. Then pry out the base surrounding the center pin.
- Likewise, remove the rivet to the side of the expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove the expansion tank filler cap.
- With two screwdrivers, pry up the escutcheon around the bleeder screw
next to the expansion tank filler cap and remove the escutcheon.
- Replace the expansion tank filler cap.
- Study how the M-shaped rubber seal at the top of the fan shroud sits.
- Pull up on the two-foot long M-shaped seal at the top of the fan shroud.
- Lift the fan shroud up and to the rear of the car; you'll get about 4
inches of room to see the small hose that goes across from the expansion
tank to a nipple on the drivers side.
- BE VERY CAREFUL IN THE NEXT STEP (I broke the nipple right off!)
- Next to the nipple on the driver's side, pry open the original clamp
so that you can remove the hose (I think it's better to dremel it off
because I busted it with very little pressure exerted).
- Remove the fan clutch nut (see separate instructions) with 32mm fan
clutch nut wrench and 48-mm hole spacing fan hub bolt counterhold tool.
- Lift fan shroud and pull fan out toward driver tilting and wiggling
as necessary to get the fan out of the shroud; it will come out aiming
at the driver's steering wheel.
- Beisan says to remove the fan shroud from the engine bay at this point
but I don't see how you can with the expansion tank, it's three hoses,
and the electrical connector on the bottom still connected to the
expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove expansion tank bleed screw with a P3 Phillips
screwdriver.
- Dislodge the expansion tank from the fan shroud by pulling up and
toward the windshield to dislodge the two hoses at the bottom from
the fan shroud.
- Replace the bleed screw with a P3 Phillips screwdriver.
- Pull the drivers side of the fan shroud up and at the same time pull
the bottom hoses of the expansion tank away from the fan shroud.
- Pull the upper expansion tank house through the tunnel in the
fan so that it is not impeding removal of the fan shroud
- Finally, remove the shroud from the engine bay, leaving the expansion
tank still connected to the car.
- Disconnect the frail-looking electrical connector from the bottom of
the expansion tank.
- The Beisans say to place the expansion tank at a high location in the
engine bay but that only made my broken nipple leak more so I put it
at about the same level it was prior.
- As per the Beisans, I tried to keep the expansion tank overflow hose
high to keep coolant from draining out but whenever I raised the expansion
tank, coolant drained out of the broken nipple on the radiator anyway.
Eventually, while I was working on putting the fan on the water
pump, the expansion tank fell to the floor with a full thud, and
I had to jam a branch of wood from my plants into the broken nipple
end on the end of the hose to stave the bleeding mess.
- At this point, the fan is off, the shroud is off, and the expansion
tank is connected but lying on the ground.
- I have access now to the water pump bolt!

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Last edited by bluebee; 07-30-2010 at 11:28 PM.
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  #108  
Old 07-31-2010, 05:39 AM
gumbi4u gumbi4u is offline
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Reading this thread has been a very confusing experience. Changing an alt and diagnosing your original problem shouldn't be this complicated. Simple problem with a simple swap. We got talk about fan clutch removal and what clamps to use. Things get so much clearer and easier when BOTH hands are on the job and not one holding an SLR. Just saying.

There are several threads on multiple forums to diagnose the alt issue. I personally have one where I went through this WHILE the car was being driven. Symptoms showed up about an hour prior to break down.


This job is Not for someone who can buy some tools. This has been proven in this thread. WE have changed these ALt's out in about an hour and change. There are no amount of pics one can take to show someone this is easy.Do not create false hope.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FP5241 View Post
hahaha.. at least they forgot about the flower wheels and richard simmons pic... I'll be a fruit loop instead of a flower weilding exercise guru..
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  #109  
Old 07-31-2010, 09:58 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I was wondering where you were in my time of need!
Feel free to PM me anytime. You don't accept, but I'm checking frequently.
Bill
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  #110  
Old 07-31-2010, 11:14 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gumbi4u View Post
Things get so much clearer and easier when BOTH hands are on the job and not one holding an SLR. Just saying.
I don't disagree with you ...

First off, I start clueless (so maybe it takes me ten times longer); and, as anyone who has documented a fix knows, it takes much longer to document the steps than to just do them (so that makes it fifteen times longer); plus, I take pretty good pics ... so maybe it's twenty times longer (what with all the angles, lighting changes, selection, cropping, annotation, posting, etc.). And I certainly try to respond, in detail, with pictures, to every single relevant query (so maybe it's twenty five times longer). ... plus I freeze like a deer in the headlights when I have to make a decision without data ... (that's where you guys get me over the hurdles!).

But, keep in mind, not only am I helping myself by asking these questions, I'm also trying to help the clueless (of which I always start out as one).

When the clueless read the final DIY (which always seems to take ANOTHER ten times longer) ... THEY can follow in just a couple of hours. That's progress!

In fact, at this point, with just my "text" directions (I haven't posted the pictures yet), I "probably" could do an entire belt-drive system swap in just a few hours (assuming fewer mishaps because of the knowledge of the cn90 thread-nut trick, for example).

Of course, my "I'm being towed in 30 minutes" original post "grew" from a charging system question --> to an alternator R&R --> to a belt-drive system overhaul --> to a PSP leak fix --> to a stripped water pump shaft --> to a fan shroud removal --> to a broken nipple --> to an aneurysm in the lower radiator hose --> to a cooling system overhaul parts research (and some say, due to the gunk on the as-yet-unnamed part shown below) --> to a valve cover gasket replacement --> and from there to a VANOS seals (thank God I dodged the bullet on the ICV and CCV and OFH repairs).

At this point, my biggest problem is selecting the parts and suppliers at a good price for the cooling system overhaul (doing all the research necessary and posting results into this thread for myself & others).

It seems the most highly recommended suppliers (overall) are:
- eactuning, oembimmerparts, bmaparts, bavauto, autohauzaz, bmw-parts-direct, eeuroparts, bimmerspecialist, and trademotion ...

So, I'm in the cooling-system overhaul parts-research stage at the moment.

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  #111  
Old 07-31-2010, 11:31 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gumbi4u View Post
There are no amount of pics one can take to show someone this is easy. Do not create false hope.
This is one of the rare times I will strongly disagree with what an expert here posts.

I DO believe that even the most difficult jobs can be done by a novice IF that novice has three things:
1. Clear step-by-step instructions of EVERY step (on his or her make and model).
2. The recommended tools (most cost less than what a mechanic would charge for labor)
3. Access to the experts (ummm ... that's YOU guys!)

You experts don't need an exact 1:1 (every single step and a picture for every single step) DIY; but we novices do.
You experts don't need to ask questions about how to remove or thread a fan nut; but we novices do.

The type of DIYs that cn90 writes are almost perfect (the major problem to me is the different year and model). The type of DIY that the Bentleys write is almost useless (I can't believe the writer ever did the job they're writing about). The type that I write are tediously long and detailed; but, I feel, that's exactly what a novice needs. Not the one-size-fits-all model, but, the if-you-have-this-exact-car-then-these-are-your-exact-steps type model.

I don't wish to argue though ... I just wish to state that I'm going to TRY (even if it's hopeless) to emulate guys like cn90, airos, beisan, pelican, etc. ... but for MY year, make, and model (2002 BMW 525i).

Wish me luck!

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  #112  
Old 07-31-2010, 11:44 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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bluebee a couple posts up, you have a pic of the Vanos unit and an encircled part you're curious about... That's the Vanos exhaust solenoid, covered in oil/grime from ????

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...70&hg=11&fg=15

The link refers to parts for my car, but the intake solenoid bits (parts 2, 3, 4 etc.) are probably identical to those for the exhaust solenoid...... though I'm not certain. No need to be replacing any of this stuff if it works, but the grime cake on yours suggests maybe you have a leaky valve cover gasket....

Last edited by pleiades; 07-31-2010 at 11:49 AM.
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  #113  
Old 07-31-2010, 04:54 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
you have a pic of the Vanos unit and ...That's the Vanos exhaust solenoid, covered in oil/grime ... the grime cake on yours suggests maybe you have a leaky valve cover gasket....
Thanks for the answer. I've "heard" the dreaded word "VANOS" time and time and time again here ... but never knew WHERE it was.

I guess I'll tackle the leaking valve cover gasket LATER (after I get the E39 back running) as I've been w/o a car for days now and I think I'll just wrap it up with a nipple and hose temporarily while I complete the research on the cooling system overhaul (and wait for the parts to arrive). Then, after the cooling syste, I'll need to research how to debug a leaky valve cover gasket; and then how to replace the vanos seals. (Soooo much to learn.)

But, it's good to FINALLY see where the VANOS lies!

While I'm pondering, I wonder ... where in this picture below are those dreaded vanos seals?

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  #114  
Old 07-31-2010, 07:44 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Here ya go.....

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
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  #115  
Old 07-31-2010, 08:46 PM
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mmm635 mmm635 is offline
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Mein Auto: '02 525i Sp/5, 95 FJ80 LC
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
While I'm pondering, I wonder ... where in this picture below are those dreaded vanos seals?
Here are some 2002 525i specific photos if you want to see what it looks like and what you should expect. You can see the seals on the pistons about halfway through the photo library. I also have more photos on my computer I can upload if these are not enough.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mmm635/V...erReplacement#
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  #116  
Old 08-01-2010, 02:13 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I will thoroughly check out all the VANOS pics as I think that's two jobs down the road:
1. Finish the drive belt system overhaul first
2. Then buy the parts and do a cooling system overhaul
3. Then, research and buy the parts and do a VANOS overhaul

Meanwhile, I did more research to improve the parts list that we should keep EXTRA of for any job that involves the fan shroud removal:
- Extra radiator nipples (BMW PN 17.11.0.419.132)
- Extra green coolant temperature sensor O-Rings M8x3 (BMW PN 13.62.1.743.299)
- Extra fan shroud rivets for 8mm holes (BMW PN 17.11.1.712.963)
Note: RealOEM doesn't list either of the first two parts where you'd expect them so most people don't know about them; but research reveals them to us all.

At the same time, I researched and finally found the trick outside the E39 forums for obtaining the correct M8x3 o-rings for the lower radiator hose coolant temperature sensor.

Concurrently, I visited stores until I could find a complete thread-chaser file set which I used on the water pump bolt to clean the threads (as discussed in this specific-topic thread).

Lastly, I experimented with a safe way to remove the radiator nipple intact (so as to improve the fan shroud removal procedure). I failed, but, I opened a separate thread asking the more inventive of us to see if we can devise a non-destructive method of intact radiator nipple removal.




Last edited by bluebee; 08-01-2010 at 02:17 AM.
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  #117  
Old 08-01-2010, 11:24 PM
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I finished the job and drove the car today for a test drive and it drove well (even cured itself of the loud noise upon startup).

Only one step left and that's to bleed it.

Disaster struck (again)!

As the final final step, I tried to follow the cn90 bleed method and then the conflicting NNY528I bleed method, and, well, I guess I tweaked the thermostat hose bleed screw one to many times!

Half is stuck in the hose and I now own my very own ethylene glycol fountain!

Using a screw extractor set (bought when I learned how NOT to change oil), I then cracked the plastic in the upper radiator hose. So a new hose is required before the car will move again.

No big deal ... but, I don't want to break the radiator while I'm removing the hose so I need to be gentle.

I pulled one u-shaped pin right off; and the other one is sticking out. What's next for removing the hose w/o breaking the thermostat on one end and the radiator on the other end?

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  #118  
Old 08-01-2010, 11:34 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Ouch... hey I've done things like this, too.

To remove the hose from the tstat housing, you'll want to use one hand to hold the housing end steady (to ensure it isn't subject to any sideways flex) as you use your other hand to slowly and steadily wiggle (rotational movement) the hose end off. If you pull too hard, rubber hose can tear and the plastic fitting can crack. Take your time, this can be a test of stamina especially if the O-ring in the hose-end fitting has had time to dry out. You might need to water a few plants along the way....

I bled my 528i the same way poolman does. I think that's the method described in the Bentley.
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:00 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
use one hand to hold the housing end steady (to ensure it isn't subject to any sideways flex) as you use your other hand to slowly and steadily wiggle (rotational movement) the hose end off
It doesn't wanna go. I can apply MORE force ... but that's what has been getting me in trouble all along. So I need to go slowly.

Can you CONFIRM that once I pull the pin, there's nothing else to press? (Sometimes these German connectors are diabolical.)

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  #120  
Old 08-02-2010, 12:13 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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The wire pin really just locks the hose in place, I guess so pressure can't blow it off; the seal is a thick O-ring in the plastic hose fitting that slips over the end of the t-stat plastic tubing, and it can be tough to release (tight rubber gripping plastic). When these hoses are new and you are snapping the fittings together wet with a little coolant as lubricant, they slip on easily enough the first time. Getting them apart is another story.
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:25 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Brass bleed screw ftw.
Went through this ordeal, and also has been discussed. Pay attention not to overtighten, and make sure the O-ring is on.
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  #122  
Old 08-02-2010, 05:53 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Blue, the best way is to bleed the way you attempted. HOWEVER, I have found that if you get the front of the car at least 6" above the back end it s easily done with only the bleeder screw by the reservoir. Too late now, but if you can park on a really steep incline or jack front of car up you can get an effective bleed just using bleed screw at reservoir. If temps look ok, drive it to work and back and then check level again. You may gain just a little if you raised front end.
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  #123  
Old 08-02-2010, 07:37 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
jack front of car up you can get an effective bleed just using bleed screw at reservoir.
Thanks Bill. That now makes THREE bleed procedures to choose from!

I'll try to remove the hose today from home, before heading out to BMW Mountainview with a friend to get the hose. I'm surprised it just wiggles off because it doesn't want to (hopefully I won't break the thermostat housing and radiator neck as the cooling system overhaul is for a later date).

At least the alternator works and replacing all the belt-drive system components fixed the screeches I used to hear for the first five minutes after cold startup.

I did have difficulty putting the engine air filter housing back together; I wonder if it's why I have the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light.

Is it normal to have an SES light after replacing alternator and belt-drive components? (I have to borrow a code reader to see the codes.)

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  #124  
Old 08-02-2010, 03:17 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Getting them apart is another story.
Hi Pleiades (the 7 sisters),

Your information helped a lot to give me the confidence to devise a method that applies (I think) absolutely ZERO force up or down or to the side. All the force is axial only!

I wrote a pictorial DIY to show others how I accomplished that!

BTW,
the pictorial DIY for reattaching the fan nut is here (thanks to cn90).

Thanks!


PS: I still don't know if it's "normal" to have an SES light after replacing the alternator. I can't borrow the code reader right now due to my friend being out on vacation.



Last edited by bluebee; 08-02-2010 at 05:47 PM.
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  #125  
Old 08-02-2010, 03:56 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Mein Auto: '99 528i, M52TU w/stick
I read your DIY and will try that wedgie approach next time I have to remove a hose.

Side note: Pleiades is "Subaru" in Japanese and is the constellation on the emblem you see on that brand.... I use the same name on several Subaru forums.... Easier to have to remember just one (and easier yet on a non-Subie board...).
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