Transmission problem

i have bmw 740i 2000 after 2 days of having this car the trans start on safe mode spicaly when i drive inside city the trans will not shift gearand will be on safe mode the gear will stay on shift 1until rpm will reach 3.5 or 4 then will shift to 2 i have spend around 1500 biritsh pound still did not fix the car
my michanic told me is the colling temp problem i have replaced the trans coller and change trans oil with filter the car does same thing
i have take my car to bmw dealer and paid 100 pound for diegnosting the could not find problem the bmw dealer call me and aske me anther 350 pound for checking the wiring but he said is not garanted will find problem
does any body have the same problem
inform me please this car make me crazy i dont care about mony if the car will be fixed but pay for no slotion inform me please

I used to have the 740i mine did the same thing. I had a used tranny put in..... But It kept doing the same thing.... going to safe mode every once in a while when I would park on a hill or slant. I would just turn the car off and wait like 1 minute and the computer would reset when i turned it back on. Then it would drive fine. But if i stays in that mode constantly...
I dont know what to tell you.

Get it rebuilt. Buy the rebuild kit from www.IPTTransmissions.com and call it a day. If you want a real strong transmission than go for their Torque Converter and Upgraded Throttle Body, and that will be the last of any issues. I had my Audi A6 transmission rebuilt (same ZF trash they put in BMW's) and it was rock solid. The ZF5HP24A are stronger than the ZF5HP19A in my Audi. So, let me tell you that you need a rebuild but get STRONGER and UPDATED parts otherwise you'll be in the same issue. Also look into getting extended warranty.

Make sure all tires are the same and rims and air pressure that will cause tranny issues. For about $250 you can change the EGS and have it reprogrammed and clear all your adaptive memory for about 300 more. Also make sure your battery is ok because tranny is very sensitive to voltage irregularities, may be original battery. Check alternator and wire harness from EGS to tranny. Check for ignition switch codes and all stored codes. If all this checks out rebuild tranny.

also try removing and looking at the position sensor switch on the trany clean the cannon plug and try again if that dont work look for a cliff

If you're sure the trans is not running hot anymore and if your mechanic will hook it up to an auto logic or the dealer to their GT1 and drive and watch the trans temp and if you stay under about 120*C you should not be going into this mode. If when you were running hot and before you changed the voltage regulator and heat exchange and if you're sure the two pipes running to and from the trans to the heat exchanger are not clogged and the oil pump in the trans is working well and you aren't running hot for sure the wire harness in the valve body could have been damaged when you were hot therefor causing it to give bad erratic temperature readings to the computer causing it to go into hot mode. Changing the wire harness which comes with the new sensor on it that should stop the temp. problem and keep you from the car going into hot mode and down shifting for no reason. now if your running cool and you are sure that the problem is not heat related and your fluid is still good you can avoid this problem also by putting a 10k 1/2 watt resistor in the wire harness where it plugs into the EGS but you have to know where to put it and if you want to write me I can send you a picture. This will give your transmission wire harness sensor the reading that you are always around 80*C and will not trigger the hot mode. when you take it's temp. in the future it will always say it's cool but it's a false reading but if you want to save the trouble of changing the wire harness and the labor to drop the pan and maybe change the ATF again which will cost 1000 US. So it's a 20 cent fix but only if you're sure you're not running hot to begin with. Make sure of that and that he changed the voltage regulator when he changed the heat exchanger because that's the part that would usually be clogged. Lets face it if this was a newer car you don't do this but on an 11 yr old car to keep spending thousand on repairs is crazy because regardless of what you spend these great cars are only worth so much and it's not a lot. They are worth fixing, they are great and not many cars compare and look at what you could buy for what we could get on a trade so with that in mind I have no problem cutting corners when you can if it doesn't cause another problem. If this works which if you are running cool and it's going into hot mode when you do your next ATF change change the harness then in like 50k miles then your only cost would be the 200 for the harness which there is a TSB out for 24 01 02.

I have a similar problem on my 740 iL. It seems when it gets hot and most of the time when the car is having to climb a steep hill or it sits idle for a while, it somehow causes the car to not shift up to higher gears when doing around 50MPH or above. I end up stopping, turning the engine off and letting the car sit for about 5 mins to reset but it's a pain in the backside and when I took it to my local BMW repair shop, he said he couldn't find any problem with the transmission or engine.

They recommended taking it to the dealer but dealers usually spend $$$'s and don't really get to the bottom of this type of problem. It's driving me crazy so I thought I would ask some of the experts on this forum to see if there's a straightforward fix.

unless you want to spend alot of money i would just deal with it. the trannys in that year are real sensitive. usually there really is no fix they all do the same thing after so many miles.

Originally Posted by Golfscot1

I have a similar problem on my 740 iL. It seems when it gets hot and most of the time when the car is having to climb a steep hill or it sits idle for a while, it somehow causes the car to not shift up to higher gears when doing around 50MPH or above. I end up stopping, turning the engine off and letting the car sit for about 5 mins to reset but it's a pain in the backside and when I took it to my local BMW repair shop, he said he couldn't find any problem with the transmission or engine.

They recommended taking it to the dealer but dealers usually spend $$$'s and don't really get to the bottom of this type of problem. It's driving me crazy so I thought I would ask some of the experts on this forum to see if there's a straightforward fix.

You have a different problem and should before anything reset everything in the car back to original spec. and clear all adaptive and everything. There is a good chance this could even have your car working again, you never know. Disconnect both battery terminals from the battery and chances are they wont reach each other so take a set of heavy duty jumper cables and take the red, positive wire from the car and connect it to one end of the red jumper cables and then take the other side of the positive, red, jumper cable and connect it to the black, negative wire of the cars negative cable. This will basically be the same thing as if you just took the two cables in the car and connected them. So you have only one side, the red side of the jumper cables in use and you are not using the black negative at all and just using it to connect the red and black wires from the car together. Let the car sit and do not have anything near or connected to the battery and leave it overnight or about ten hours and then reconnect the wires to the battery and your car will be reset to factorysettings. This works unlike doing it with the GT1 or Auto Logic machines, it's completely safe and once you do this see how the car runs, it may work well and this can solve many problems. If your problem doesn't go away or comes back you will go to the next step which we will go over next. Keep us posted.