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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 09-06-2010, 03:43 PM
jpl77 jpl77 is offline
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GKR and no-brand FSR

The old GKR only showed 15.8 ohm at terminal 1, and 35.5 ohm at terminal 4. Once it is plugged in, the blower motor would stay on all the times. I took it apart and re-soldered
it and could not get it to work. Two pictures are attached.

The no-brand one, failed within 6 months, only gave me a 38.2 ohm measurement at terminal 1. And, the blower won't run with it. It is not filled with silicon and is very hard
to open. It has plastic casing like one shown in the posting, but no lable of any kind.

Thanks,

JP
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  #77  
Old 09-06-2010, 05:10 PM
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MatWiz MatWiz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpl77 View Post
Any one has any luck with the Final Stage Register sold in eBay?

One has a 12-month warranty:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=46094

There is one made by Eurasia. It is posted at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E...Q5fAccessories

I bought no brand one from eBay (from New York) and it went bad in less than
6 months. I am looking for another replacement.

Thanks,

JP
We have learned to stay away from eBay. You try to save money and end up paying much more in the end.

mw
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  #78  
Old 09-07-2010, 08:57 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatWiz View Post
We have learned to stay away from eBay.
+1.

The whole point of the latter half of this thread is to find the brand to buy.

Saying "ebay" is meaningless in that context.

The question is which brand to get.

The best brand for the E39 seems to be Sitronic/Bosch.

Now, if you can get a Sitronic/Bosch on Ebay ... let us know because THEN the word "Ebay" is meaningful if it also contains a link to a Sitronic/Bosch FSU/FSR final stage unit.
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  #79  
Old 09-07-2010, 10:40 AM
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MatWiz MatWiz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
+1.

The whole point of the latter half of this thread is to find the brand to buy.

Saying "ebay" is meaningless in that context.

The question is which brand to get.

The best brand for the E39 seems to be Sitronic/Bosch.

Now, if you can get a Sitronic/Bosch on Ebay ... let us know because THEN the word "Ebay" is meaningful if it also contains a link to a Sitronic/Bosch FSU/FSR final stage unit.
JPL77, While you're already talking to the eBay vendor who sells you real Sitronic/Bosch, can you also ask him if he sells real Rolex? I am looking for a brand new one for less than $100. Thank you in advance.

mw
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Last edited by MatWiz; 09-07-2010 at 10:41 AM.
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  #80  
Old 09-07-2010, 03:42 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatWiz View Post
also ask him if he sells real Rolex?
Earlier today, I called the company that sells one of the FSRs he listed:
800-232-8075 Email: ebay@directauto.com item=230499094406

The saleswoman I spoke with said the $43.60 BMW FSU/FSR had no sticker on the unit. When I pressed further she told me the bag it comes in says "Tapco" on it. So she surmised it's made by Tapco.

I asked her to open the bag, which she did, but she said there was no other stamping or indication of the manufacturer.

Does anyone know anything about this "Tapco" manufacturer/distributor?

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  #81  
Old 09-07-2010, 03:54 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the second Ebay reference, the $35 FSU/FSR doesn't seem to have an 800 number to call. The Ebay seller seems to be Eurasia Parts, aka eurasia_parts on Ebay, but I can't find a contact number.

I sent them an email to order@eurasiaparts.com asking about their item number 150479127691 in order to find the manufacturer.

If anyone has experience with the $35 Eurasia Parts FSUs please let us know what brand they are ...





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  #82  
Old 10-10-2010, 08:04 AM
beevbeer1 beevbeer1 is offline
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I replaced the failed FSU in my 98 528i with the Eurasia brand 6 months ago and it is still working.

Like most Chinese imports (knockoffs) someone most likely got their hands on one of the new BMW units and stripped it down to the board and reverse engineered the electronics.

I followed the repair procedure yesterday on my 1999 540i and it worked like a charm.I had noticed lately that during braking the fan would shut down and yesterday when
I started my blower only had one speed -pretty low- and after removing the epoxy I had slow up to medium I removed it from the car again and pushed down on the resistors and when I put it back in it functioned as new.

I never got anywhere close to the resistance measurements mentioned in the previous posts.

I found the epoxy easy to remove with a small flat screwdriver the tip was to keep the epoxy warm and managed to get the board pretty clean.The other thing I noticed was the date on the part was from 2003 so the original only lasted 4 years.

The materials used in these BMW's is shocking as everyone that has had to deal with any of the plastic pieces getting brittle and breaking or having the windshield molding completely disintegrate and I guess that is something we all need to be aware of but it is hard to swallow the fact a $8000 Kia has parts that will last a lifetime yet BMW chose materials that break down in sunlight over a couple of years.

All considered as long as she is mechanically sound I can deal with the small stuff.I will be replacing the seat switch covers on the 528i for the second time in a couple of years as they also get brittle and crack.

Thanks for the posts as less than an hours labor saved me quite a few bucks.
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  #83  
Old 10-16-2010, 06:29 AM
howie_lfc howie_lfc is offline
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I have been having problems with my FSU and was looking at replacing it until I came across this thread!

I removed the resin as kraft showed. Although quite sceptical I tried the unit and what do you know my AC works again!!!

What a find this site is thanks to Kraft et al.

Cheers
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  #84  
Old 10-16-2010, 07:02 AM
bammbamm bammbamm is offline
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I have a 2001 330 with this problem where do i find this resistor to replace it ?
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  #85  
Old 10-16-2010, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bammbamm View Post
I have a 2001 330 with this problem where do i find this resistor to replace it ?
Here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=387279

You can't miss it.

mw
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  #86  
Old 10-17-2010, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatWiz View Post
You can't miss it.
And, don't miss the bestlinks thread references:
- poorly ventilated fan-control (FSU/FSR) modules that are practically sure to go haywire due to poor heat-sink design (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) ... Autopsy (1) (2) (3) (4)
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  #87  
Old 10-19-2010, 08:48 PM
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Dunno if this was linked before ... but I just ran into this pictorial DIY for replacing the FSU which uses novel techniques ... (maybe that is why it was so hard for me to get my FSR unclipped).

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  #88  
Old 12-12-2010, 11:15 PM
sudnut sudnut is offline
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Just pulled an intermittently faulty FSR from my 2002 E46. What a painful exercise even on a right hand drive car! Bruises on my back and cuts on my forehead.

My FSR is the original factory part by GKR with the alloy housing and the thicker cooling prongs. My theory for the failure is NOT that the epoxy shrinks over time and 'pulls' components off the circuit board. I don't think that the epoxy is really that hard, it was more like a tough silicon, easily removed when heated with a hair dryer. I know that the shrinking epoxy problem can happen in Porsche 928 CPU's but I don't think it's happening in this type of FSR. My theory is that the resistors which regulate the current to the blower are overheating to such an extent, that the pins connecting them to the circuit board are being desoldered. This does not happen immediately but rather the constant cycling of overheating and then cooling seems to fatigue the lead solder. I took a photo of my FSR after I cleaned off the epoxy and it is pretty clear that the 6 pins had been overheating and the solder around them looks dry. If you want to see for yourself how much heat these things generate, pull it out of the dash and with the connector plugged in, hold it in your hand. Now turn on your blower to the minimum setting. I could only hold mine from cold for about 30 seconds until it starts to burn. I didn't try this test after my repair but I did notice the blower speed was a lot faster even on the minimum setting. The power now seems to be going to where it should. All I did was to resolder the 6 pins just from above only. I didn't bother re-covering the circuit board for now. If I did, I would use a non-conductive silicon. Hope this helps someone.
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  #89  
Old 12-12-2010, 11:19 PM
sudnut sudnut is offline
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By the way, would love to purchase one of the above new technology FSR's. Must use switching transistors rather than resistors. Anybody know why they don't ship internationally?
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  #90  
Old 12-13-2010, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sudnut View Post
I took a photo of my FSR after I cleaned off the epoxy and it is pretty clear that the 6 pins had been overheating and the solder around them looks dry ... All I did was to resolder the 6 pins ...
Would LOVE to see the photos!

Last edited by bluebee; 12-13-2010 at 06:07 AM.
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  #91  
Old 12-17-2010, 06:59 PM
sudnut sudnut is offline
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BMW final stage resistor FSR fault repair

Ok, here are a couple of pics of my FSR from a 2002 E46 which is identical to FSR's in many other models and series of BMW. The first is what you see when you scrape off the epoxy-like filling covering the PCB. Using a hairdryer or better still a heatshrink gun carefully without overheating. If you smell burning its too hot. You should get a faint hot plastic odour that's all. I used one of those cheap sets of precision flat screwdrivers, they can be sharp so again be careful. You can see I gouged and scratched the circuit board a little in places, just make sure you don't slice through any tracks or lever off any components.
The second picture is a zoom of the 2 groups of 3 pins which I believe are the cause of my FSR going crazy. If you look closely, all six pins have cracks in the solder around the pins, most noticeable are pins 1, 4 and 5 from left to right. My repair was simply to remelt and resolder these pins with a little more solder using a hot and fine tipped soldering iron, until I felt that the lead had flowed through the board and hopefully to the other side where the components/resistors are. If this repair doesn't last, I may remove the board fully and have a better look on the other side.
Living in a hot part of the world I use my blower fan almost always because I like fresh air without the buffeting from open windows and I think the air flow in the E46 cabin is very poor otherwise.
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  #92  
Old 12-17-2010, 07:10 PM
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540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
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Very cool. I recognize the soldering failure. I recently had a problem with my hazard lights on my Ferrari. Removed the relay that was not working and took it apart...same thing, bad solder on a couple points, looked exactly the same...I had to use an 8X lupe to see it. Touched a pencil soldering iron on them and fixed them right up. Works like new. Saved myself about $225 for a new relay from Ferrari....(I am not kidding).

But understand that on the FSU, touching up the solder is not going to be a permanent fix, only temporary. As we have seen based on the revisions, there is a heat disipation problem that is causing the solder joints to fail. Fixing the solder joints will gain you additional useful life out of the component...but questionable how much more...before the next weakest solder joints fail...or the ones fixed fail again. Versus going with the new, updated part, with additional heat sink that appears to cure the problem.

I know my 2001 car had at least one, perhaps two replacement FSUs before I bought it in 2003. In 2005, just out of warranty (of course) I replaced the FSU with the most current part number, and I have had no further issues...been 5.5 years now. Granted that is a grand sample of one FSU. FWIW.
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Last edited by 540 M-Sport; 12-17-2010 at 07:24 PM.
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  #93  
Old 12-17-2010, 11:16 PM
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I love it when people give back and add to the combined tribal knowledge!

Good job! Thanks!
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  #94  
Old 12-18-2010, 09:25 AM
dr felix dr felix is offline
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hello

I have also opened up my fsr.
since it was ready for the bin already, I thought I might as well split it open to see how it looked like inside.

as "Sudnut" already pointed out I also had those cracks in the solider.
I then became suspicious of this being transistors, NOT resistors.
so I worked my way down to measure these to transistors as I thought this is the reason my FSR is no longer functioning.

I was correct. the transistors have failed.
This is probably due to the heatsink being too small.


I've figured out what the transistors are called, but haven't had the opertunity to try switching them for new ones.

But if anybody want to have a go at this, they are called "BUZ100"
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  #95  
Old 12-18-2010, 04:36 PM
sudnut sudnut is offline
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FSR repair

Dr Felix must be right. There are 3 pins together so they must be power transistors not resistors. I was taking a wild guess because I didn't get to see the other side of the board.

It would be possible to replace these if you really wanted to, but as ''540M-Sport'' points out how long would the fix last? The fact is these FSRs will continue to overheat and eventually fail. I guess you could keep repairing them every few years, but the answer is to get the latest redesigned version or possibly the switching transistor version from eBay.
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  #96  
Old 01-05-2011, 03:43 PM
JimE39 JimE39 is offline
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I have a 530 with an intermittent battery drain problem, HVAC system works fine though. I have read lots of threads here that the FSR/FSU could be the culprit so I will try that next.

I have already changed the battery, changed the bonnet sensor, and pulled numerous fuses trying to find the drain problem but have got no-where.

I will post any results I get, any feedback would be much appreciated, thanks,
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  #97  
Old 01-05-2011, 04:09 PM
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any feedback
I gave some feedback in your other exact same post on its own thread.

Check it out.

Let us know how it works out.
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  #98  
Old 01-11-2011, 06:40 PM
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FSR, Use BMW brand only.
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  #99  
Old 01-11-2011, 06:48 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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This thread in E46 forum seems to implicate that the problem is after all, poor connections!!!
Just clean the connector and re-plug it back in!!!

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=436258
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  #100  
Old 01-12-2011, 06:16 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Just clean the connector
Wow. Do we really think all we have to do is clean the connections?
I'm not so sure. Let's tell everyone that and see if it works, over time.

BTW, here's a successful UK FSU repair where there were no blower problems, but the battery was drained overnight.

There was no report of erratic blower operation, and no-blower operation; but the new FSU reportedly still solved the problem.

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