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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-22-2010, 12:35 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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DIY: Very Nice Inspections Tips from Bavauto Blog!

I just saw this post from bavauto.com, very nice tips on how to inspect your beloved BMW (and Mini):
http://blog.bavauto.com/bmw-e46/okay...car-inspection

I will copy and paste it here (just in case one day bavauto decides to remove their web page!). So here you go, enjoy this article, boys and girls!

----------------
Okay, Let's Start Our BMW and MINI Under-Car Inspection…...
December 11th, 2009


1) Remove all under-car splash panels. You may have as many as three separate panels, starting just behind the bumper, to under the engine, to under the transmission (figs. 6A & 6B)



BMW Splash Pan:




2) Check the front wheel bearings. Grasp the tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. Alternately push and pull the tire/wheel assembly (fig. 7). You should detect no movement or wobbling. If any movement is detected, the wheel bearing assembly should be replaced. Spin the wheel/tire assembly; the assembly should spin freely, with no wobbling or grinding noises. If there is resistance to spinning or you hear rough noises, the bearings may be at fault, but it could also be the brakes (step 3).




3) Check for sticking brake calipers. Step hard on the brake pedal, then release it. Now spin each front wheel/tire assembly. They should spin fairly freely. If either one will not spin for at least two revolutions, you may have a sticking brake caliper caused by corrosion between the caliper's hydraulic piston and its cylinder bore. This would require either replacing or rebuilding the caliper. NOTE: This test is not as reliable for all-wheel or front-wheel drive models, due to the drag of the drivetrain components. However, if one side has noticeably more drag than the other, and the pads on that side are more worn than the other side (step 7), this would be an indicator of a potentially sticking caliper.


4) Check your tires. Remove the wheel/tire assembly. Inspect the inner and outer sidewalls of the tire for cracking or bulging. Either condition is cause for replacement due to the possibility of blowout. Inspect the tire tread: it should exhibit smooth and even wear from the inside to outside tread blocks. There should be no cracking in the valleys between the raised tread blocks. The tread depth should be consistent across the tread face. A tread depth gauge will accurately and consistently measure the tire's tread depth.

Tread Depth Gauge:



None of the molded-in wear indicator bars should be as high as the tread blocks. If the wear bars are even with the tread block height, the tires are legally worn out and will be far more susceptible to hydroplaning in wet conditions and they should be replaced. (fig. 8).




Carefully rub your hand across the tread blocks, in various directions: you should feel no sharp edges to the tread blocks (feather edging). Finally, view the tread surface from different angles; do you see any uneven wear, such as areas that are worn more than the surrounding area? This is called cupping. Here are some other wear issues to look for: Inner and outer tread blocks have less depth than the center tread blocks. This indicates a history of under-inflation.

* Center tread blocks have less tread depth than the inner and outer blocks. This indicates a history of over-inflation.
* Inner tread blocks have less tread depth than outer tread blocks. This is generally an indicator of excessive negative camber. This is somewhat common on BMWs – especially BMWs that have been lowered. If the vehicle has not been lowered, but the camber wear is excessive, we offer suspension modifications that allow the camber to be reduced.
* Feather edging is typically an indicator of an improper toe-in/toe-out alignment.
* Cupping is typically due to worn out suspension/steering components and/or worn out shocks.

5) Check the valve stems. If they are rubber, gently bend them and inspect for cracking. If cracks are found, they should be replaced.

6) Check the wheels. Look for heavy rusting (if steel) or cracking. Cracked wheels should be replaced. Rusted wheels should be de-rusted, inspected and, if structurally sound, repainted.

7) Check your brakes. Sticking calipers should have already been tested in step 3. Now inspect the brake rotor for heavy rusting at the outer edges, heavy scoring on the pad wear surface or a heavy ridge at the outer edge of the pad wear surface (fig. 9).



Any of these conditions warrants replacement of the rotor. Inspect thickness of the brake pad friction material by looking through the inspection port in the middle of the caliper (fig. 10).



[NOTE: With some calipers, you may not be able to see both pads through the inspection port.]

Both pads (inner and outer) should be worn evenly. If the outer pad is worn more than the inner pad, this is an indication that the caliper guide bolts are sticking in the bushings. Remove the guide bolts, clean the bolts and the bushings and lubricate with Lubro-Moly Anti-Seize or Sta-Lube Disc Brake Grease. Alternately, you can replace the guide bolts and bushings with new ones, (either factory replacement or upgraded versions, fig. 11). Caliper Bushing Upgrade Kit:



If the pads show 1/8-inch (or 2-3 mm) or less, of material remaining, you should plan on replacing them as soon as it is convenient, taking note of the rotor condition as well. Inspect the rubber brake fluid line that runs from the chassis to the caliper. Any signs of cracks or leakage indicate a need for immediate replacement.

8) Check the front shocks/struts and springs. Look for oil leakage from the upper shaft seal, which indicates a need for replacement (fig. 12). Inspect the upper and lower ends of the coil spring for broken ends. Inspect the dust protection boot and compression bumper (on the upper rod of the shock, inside the spring area) for deterioration. Grasp the spring and check for play or movement at the upper mount by trying to wobble the assembly in any direction. There should be no movement (except for radial movement, as when steering).




9) Check the ball joints. Check the outer ball joint(s) by grasping the backside of the joint and the end of the threaded stud (past the nut) – or the spindle eye – with a large pair of channel-lock pliers and attempt to pinch the pliers closed (fig. 13). There should be no movement of the joint, (i.e. the pliers should not close at all). Using a large pry bar, try to pry the ball joint apart leveraging against the control arm(s). Again, there should be no movement. Any movement indicates a need for replacement. Additionally, deteriorated or torn rubber boots on the ball joints will allow grease to leak out and dirt and water to enter, leading to early failure of the joint. If this is the case, replace the ball joints and/or control arms.




10) Check the steering linkage. Grasp the brake rotor at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and try to wobble the assembly. You should detect no movement. If any movement is detected, closely watch for movement at the tie-rod ends (both inner and outer), steering rack (or gearbox), center track rod and idler arm (if equipped) at the various ball joint connections. Determine where the movement is originating. An assistant can help with this task (one inspects the joints while one wobbles the rotor). Any joint that is found to have play is in need of replacement. If all of the joints are tight and the play appears to be in the steering rack or gearbox (the rack or gearbox output is moving, but the input shaft from the steering column is not moving), this indicates internal play. More than 1/8-inch (or less than 2-3 mm); of movement is enough to consider replacement. As with the ball joints (in step 9), deteriorated or torn rubber boots on the joints will allow the grease to leak out and dirt and water to enter, leading to early failure of the joint.


11) Check the sway bar links. Inspect the links that connect the ends of the sway bar to the control arm or strut tube (fig. 15). The links will have either rubber bushings in each end or small ball joints. The rubber bushing ends should not be excessively deformed or pushed out of the link's eyelet ends. Test the ball joint ends for play or deteriorated boots. A common cause of front end "clunking" is worn out sway bar links. BMW Sway Bar Link Pricing




12) Check your control arms. We have already inspected the outer ball joints on the control arms. We'll now inspect the inner ball joints (if applicable) and the inner bushings. Inspect and test the inner ball joints (3 series and Z series through 05 only) in a similar manner to the outer ball joints (fig. 16), as in step 9. Inspect the inner control arm bushings. There should be no cracks or deterioration. Grasp the control arm with a pair of channel-lock pliers and twist the arm. There should be a fair amount of resistance in the bushing to the twisting force. A worn/loose bushing can cause front-end vibration and should be replaced.




13) On MINIs and all-wheel drive BMWs, check the CV boots. Inspect the inner and outer axle constant velocity (CV) joint boots for cracks, deterioration or tears. Holes in the CV boot will allow grease to leak out and dirt and water to enter. This will destroy the CV joint in short order. If the boot has not been damaged very long and the CV joint is not showing signs of wear/damage (noise, clunking, etc.), the boot can be replaced and the CV joint re-greased. (Notice the caked grease on the balljoint, tie-rod end and brake backing plate in fig 17. This is evidence of a previous failure. The boot shown is new.)




14) Check for fluid leaks. In inspecting for various fluid leaks (coolant, engine oil, transmission oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid, washer fluid, etc.), it is worth noting that a dry underside on a BMW is not common. Most BMWs will have a variety of fluid leaks. You are in search of the sources of the leaks so you can determine if they are in need of repair. (We naturally encourage you to correct any leak that is found, but some may not be in dire need while others would be imperative to fix.) In searching out the source of a wet spot or obvious leak, sometimes you can simply follow the trail of wet fluid to the source of the leak. Other times, the underside may be so covered in fluids that you cannot tell where the leak originates, or there is so much machinery jammed into the area, you simply can't see past the myriad of hoses, brackets and other assemblies. In these cases, it helps to get the area as clean as possible so that you can take note of fresh fluid as it leaks out and down. A spray-can of Wurth brake parts cleaner works quite well for cleaning a fluid- covered underside (purchase a few cans). It will, however, make a mess as it drips down. We like to use the oil absorbent Pig Mat to keep the dripping mess in-check. You can also place the Pig Mats under the vehicle so that you can see exactly where a fresh drip is coming from, making it easier to trace upward to find the source. Here's how to identify a few common fluid leaks (fig. 18).



For leaks where the source is difucult to locate, you can use the Leak Detection Kit. This DIY kit includes flourescent dyes for lubricants (oils), coolant and A/C systems. The dye is poured or injected into the system and as the fluid leaks, the dye will also leak. You then use the included UV light and UV enhancing goggles to follow the leaking fluid to the source of the leak.

Leak detection kit:



Engine oil leak. Engine oil will be brownish to black in color. Common sources of leaks are the oil pan gasket, oil pan drain plug seal, oil filter housing, front engine timing cover, valve cover gaskets and crankshaft seals. Once the source of the leak is determined, you can replace the offending gaskets or seals. A less common, but potential, source of an oil leak would be the hoses that run from the oil filter housing to the oil cooler, near the radiator.

---> Automatic transmission fluid leak. This fluid will be red to reddish brown, or clear to brownish. The only sources for transmission fluid leakage, forward of the transmission itself, are the hoses that run from the transmission to the fluid cooler in, or near, the radiator. Fluid leaks from the transmission itself can be due to a failed fluid pan gasket, input seal, output seal or shifter shaft seal.

---> Power steering fluid leak. Power steering fluid will be similar in appearance to the automatic transmission fluids, but it has a nasty odor. Typical sources of leaks include the hoses, the steering rack or gearbox, and the pump. Hose leakage is also very common.

---> Engine coolant leak. Engine coolant will most typically be blue (if original BMW), green, yellow or orange. Old leaks will leave a trail of white-ish residue, which may help to locate the source. Common leakage points are hose ends, the radiator side tanks, the coolant expansion tank and the water pump (on the engine). Coolant leaks should be taken care of immediately: without warning, a slow leak of small amounts of coolant can become an almost instant loss of all coolant, leading to catastrophic engine failure caused by overheating.

---> Windshield washer fluid. This is most commonly blue, green or pink. Typical sources of leaks include the grommets around the pumps that are mounted on the reservoir, a cracked reservoir or a cracked, broken or disconnected hose. Headlight washers can also be a source of leaks, so check for spots on the ground under the front bumper.
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Last edited by cn90; 09-22-2010 at 12:40 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-22-2010, 01:32 PM
dcotti dcotti is offline
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I used their inspection guide when I created my inspection checklist...
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  #3  
Old 09-23-2010, 02:49 AM
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Piston_broke Piston_broke is offline
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Thanks for that. For someone who's nothing more than a shade tree mechanic (on a good day) this kind of info is invaluable.

Even if I can't or won't attempt some repairs, at least I'll be able to venture under my car at the indys shop and know what he's talking about without guessing what the hell he's referring to.
Up till now I've had some idea but that page clears up some unknowns, thanks.
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston_broke View Post
Thanks for that. For someone who's nothing more than a shade tree mechanic (on a good day) this kind of info is invaluable.

Even if I can't or won't attempt some repairs, at least I'll be able to venture under my car at the indys shop and know what he's talking about without guessing what the hell he's referring to.
Up till now I've had some idea but that page clears up some unknowns, thanks.
The information is good, but not great.

A third of the stuff is really obvious stuff (e.g., tire tread wear); nothing wrong with putting on a checklist; but the first third of the list wasn't all that edifying (the other 2/3 was interesting).

The one item I don't understand at all is the "rust on the rotors". So what if there is rust on the outside of a rotor. Even "heavy" rust. Now if the thing is crumbling, that's one thing ... but really, rotors are made out of steel. Steel rusts.

But, I'm NOT knocking the list. It's nice and I do much appreciate your posting it. I didn't know the ball-joint or steering stuff, for example.

Thanks!
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:34 AM
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paferri paferri is offline
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Mein Auto: '98 Alpine White E39 528i
Love the tips from Bavauto, I get the quarterly catalog delivered and always enjoy reading the tips.

With all you posted, I am now questioning a few things since my overhauls back in May of this year.

In regards to the front bearings, my front tires did not spin freely, or I should say spin freely on about 3/4 of a full cycle, then hit this rough spot where it takes more force to spin, and gets smooth again. I am also noticing a very low woo woo sound when cruising. Not highly audible, but being how observant I am, I can hear it. According to the article, it could be my brand new bearings, or the brake calipers which show no obvious signs of sticking. but I have had clunk sounds related to my new rotors and pads. Is there a right and left bearing or are they universal and it does not matter which side they are installed?

I have also had to fill about 4 pints of coolant in my expansion reservoir since May and thought it just may be residual air in the system since so much was replaced, but just yesterday I noticed very minimal white residue droplets on my fan blade and primarily underneath the thermostat housing....again, all replaced in May. I do not see any wet coolant so not sure if it was there or if it is leaking between the housing and block, but the droplets on the fan and air filter housing which seems to have been sprayed by the fan were not there ...Maybe It is from the expansion tank cap, although no residue found there and it is not near the droplets mentioned, hoses are all new and look fine.....just have to keep an eye on this.

I also get a very subtle vibration in the steering wheel at 70+ MPH, but again, all suspension components were replaced.

Another thing I notice is some tranny fluid that seems to have leaked sometime after changing the fluid with new filter and gasket. It is towards the rear top of the tranny pan and not from the drain or fill bolts. I have kept an eye on this and it does not seem to be leaking any longer, so it may just have been a matter of the new gasket settling in on top of slightly overfilling.

Maybe I am too observant, but one can only be sure or be sorry when owning an E39. Time to get her on the lift again to be sure all is ok
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Last edited by paferri; 09-23-2010 at 06:45 AM.
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  #6  
Old 09-23-2010, 07:09 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Nice list. I would add that one should check the condition of ball joint boots too. An easy visual check. A ripped or torn boot means imminent ball joint failure, if it has not happened already. Also for e39s, check the thrust arm bushings for leakage. These are liquid filled and leakage is a sign of failure. Shimmy is another symptom.

Last edited by Fudman; 09-23-2010 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:24 PM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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This thread should be added as a sticky on both forums.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:24 PM
newton22 newton22 is offline
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Jesus that's a lot of rust around the suspension components.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:25 PM
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I think an appropriate list would also check the KNOWN failure points.

- cooling system (1)
- ABS (1) (2) (3) ... autopsy (1) (2) ...diagnostic (1)
- I6 VANOS (1)
- headlight adjusters (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12)
- FSR (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) ... Autopsy (1) (2) (3) (4)
- vapor barrier(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)
- windshield molding (1) (2)
- jack pads (1) (2) (3)
- a/c stink (1) (2) (3)
- roundels (1)
- trunk loom (1) (2)
- shocks (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)
- window regulator (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12)
- ambient temperature sensors (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
- door-lock (1) (2)
- pixels (1) (2) (3) (4)
- cupholders (1)
- power steering cap (1) (2)
- power steering hose (1) (2)
- wood trim (1) (2) (3)
- plastic trim (1)
- seat covers (1)
- seat cables (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)(9) (10)
- windshield reservoirs (1)
- CCV (1) (1) (2)
- SAS (1) (2) (3) (4)
- ignition switch (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)
- MAF (1) (2)
- V8 valley pan (1) (2)
- thrust arm bushings (1) (2) (3) (4)
- alternator (1) (2)
etc.
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Old 09-24-2010, 04:16 AM
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That list KNOWN failure points will certainly scare away any new prospective e39 owner!

Thanx for compiling the links, BB. A good one stop list for e39 issues.
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newton22 View Post
Jesus that's a lot of rust around the suspension components.
I miss seeing this signature on Bimmerforums....
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:28 AM
dcotti dcotti is offline
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Bluebee. I would consider the items in your post to be a good place to start for a list of continuous inspection items as opposed to a monthly maintenance list.

Airlines are allowed to inspect all required maintenance items on a revolving timetable that allows all checks to be completed on a yearly basis. Maybe your list could be incorporated into a yearly schedule?
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:38 PM
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Nice, but it should be noted, for those that arent super familiar with an E39, that most of those pics were not from an E39. Also, I disagree about the checking for bearing loosness by shaking the tire. E39's have a big single non-adjustable bearing (from what it looks like). Its not like the old school dual cone bearings. They are in failure mode and making a lot of noise way before they will be loose enough to feel. The noise is the test. And finally, spinning the tire and getting two rotations is purely subjective. How hard do you spin it? How big is the tire?
Just sayin....
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Old 12-23-2010, 08:53 PM
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For the record, I just opened a specific thread asking to improve the list of common things to look for in the E39 that break:
- What are the most common items that go wrong with the E39 and in what order of import?
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Old 12-24-2010, 08:55 AM
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doru doru is offline
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These guys here have some relistic maintenance sheets as well, and check the "tech talk" - eye opener. Also, different tips. They are specialized BMW indy and know what they're talking.
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