DIY - guibo joint / flex disc / universal joint replacement procedure thread

A few hours, mainly because I was taking my time and taking pictures and stuff. Doing it again, maybe 3-4 hours still doing it at a leisurely pace.

will this fix an inch or two of play in the steering?

Originally Posted by jrcarter_2000

will this fix an inch or two of play in the steering?

This has nothing to do with the steering.

What is the name for rear joint? How are screws? Are they to rusty to removed with hand tools? The center mount dose it has to be relaxed whole or only ring in the middle?

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I would like to do this tomorrow - Keif do you have the torque specs for the guibo bolts?

Originally Posted by Khabar

What is the name for rear joint? How are screws? Are they to rusty to removed with hand tools? The center mount dose it has to be relaxed whole or only ring in the middle?

The rear joint is the constant velocity (CV) joint. Everything should be able to be removed with hand tools.

Originally Posted by MOPAULY

I would like to do this tomorrow - Keif do you have the torque specs for the guibo bolts?

See attached file.

Originally Posted by keif

the rear joint is the constant velocity (cv) joint. Everything should be able to be removed with hand tools.



See attached file.

is there a place to purchase the guibo joint..i wanna buy the part and have my mechanic replace it for me.

Originally Posted by corian25

is there a place to purchase the guibo joint..i wanna buy the part and have my mechanic replace it for me.

Ditto

I just bought mine at the dealership...I didn't want to risk something spinning at that speed with an aftermarket vendor.

Hey Kief, I do hope all is well my friend. I have been dealing with the famous "ClUNK" sound while downshifting from 2nd to 1st also. I had my Guibo replaced about a week ago and still am experiencing this same harsh downshift. Since the "Guibo replacement it does feel better but it only decreased what used to be a very loud "CLUNK & HARSH DOWNSHIFT" to a downshift that's now not as "LOUD AND HARSH BUT STILL VERY NOTICEABLE".

After looking at you DYI on the Guibo i noticed that there are a few other parts besides the guibo that may cause slack in the drive train. Could the center bearing, driveshaft, transmission mount possibly cause the slackage within the drivetrain and whats the possibility that my driveshaft is bad???

Originally Posted by yamein1212

Hey Kief, I do hope all is well my friend. I have been dealing with the famous "ClUNK" sound while downshifting from 2nd to 1st also. I had my Guibo replaced about a week ago and still am experiencing this same harsh downshift. Since the "Guibo replacement it does feel better but it only decreased what used to be a very loud "CLUNK & HARSH DOWNSHIFT" to a downshift that's now not as "LOUD AND HARSH BUT STILL VERY NOTICEABLE".

After looking at you DYI on the Guibo i noticed that there are a few other parts besides the guibo that may cause slack in the drive train. Could the center bearing, driveshaft, transmission mount possibly cause the slackage within the drivetrain and whats the possibility that my driveshaft is bad???

I am experiencing this too. I clicked on the Resource - FAQ for 745i/Li & 760Li (E65,E66) and it took me to THIS and got this

"Transmission shifts are less than smooth at low speeds or stops?

This problem also seems to be corrected by software updates. Confirmed latest update is CIP 9.2 (the version number is show on your work order if any software updates were done)."

1. Would the software update help out?
2. How much does the software update cost?
3. Can i do the software update myself without any special tools?

I reset the transmission adaptations once finished and it cleared everything up. There are other potential places for slack in the drivetrain, for example the center bearing, various mounts, and the rear differential. Additionally, how is your transmission fluid level?

Originally Posted by Keif

I reset the transmission adaptations once finished and it cleared everything up. There are other potential places for slack in the drivetrain, for example the center bearing, various mounts, and the rear differential. Additionally, how is your transmission fluid level?

No clue.

I just opened a hood with a broken cable thanks to kief and his post and pictures. Had to go thru the wheel well but the pictures were awsome. I fixed this for a friend. The dealer was telling him to drop off and expect the bill to be one to two thousand dollars to reapair. Thanks again, Dan

My car is doing the same thing,will try checking the air pressure first then i will put it on the lift and check the drive axle and inspect the guibo joint

Keif, many many thanks for your DIY.
Went ahead this weekend and replaced the guibo using your description.

Some additional points I noted along the way, that I hope may be helpful.
- the collar nuts attaching the front silencer to the manifold should be replaced (at least have them available before you start). See attached picture
- try no to damage the knurled bolt from the other side, when removing the nut.



- have a E12 female torx socket ready for the CV joint. Luckily Advance Auto has them on a Sunday.
- indicate which way to install the guibo, and mark the orientation of the prop shaft, the transmission flange and the CV.



- replace the self-locking nuts (6x) connecting the guibo.
- when torquing around the crossmember I had the hardest time to grip the nut with the wrench. Here a picture how I held the wrench when reassembling. Made it so much easier for me.



- when re-assembling the exhaust to the manifold you have to loosen the cross brace. It was late in the day and I fiddled forever trying to get them together again. Loosen the cross brace and voila, fits together again.

Hi i see your post about the flex disc. Im not 100% sure but i think mine has gone bad also. I have a 2000 323i. When im in 2nd gear at about 3000 rpms, i hear a loud grinding, rattling, vibration sound. It does it in 3rd gear also. Does anyone know if this is indeed the flex disc?

Wanted to know if we can get this done free of charge from putting in a PuMA Case or is this something that has to be done at the shop? Heres the SIB for it:

I B 24 17 07
Automatic Transmission
December 2007
Technical Service
This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B24 17 07 dated July 2007.
designates changes to this revision
SUBJECT
Harsh 3-2 and/or 2-1 Downshifts
MODEL
E65 and E66 (7 Series) 745i and 745Li with N62 and GA6HP26Z transmission
Vehicles from SOP up to 03/2005
SITUATION
IMPORTANT :
Depending on the production date of the vehicle, there are different situations and corrective measures that must be carefully followed. Running production changes in vehicle hardware and software divide these situations into three distinct production periods.
A. For vehicles produced from SOP up to and including 02/2003:
^ A harsh 3-2 and/or 2-1 downshift when slowing to a stop
^ A harsh downshift when accelerating at highway speeds
^ A "clunk" noise during a 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during a load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.
B. For vehicles produced from 03/2003 up to and including 08/2003:
^ A "clunk" noise during a 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during a load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.
C. For vehicles produced from 09/2003 up to and including 02/2005:
^ A harsh 3-2 downshift when slowing to a stop
^ A "clunk" noise during a 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during a load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.
CAUSES
EGS software calibration
Driveshaft guibo coupling deterioration for "clunk" noise complaint
CORRECTION
For Situation A: Harsh downshift complaints
1. Verify that the transmission fluid level is correct.
2. Perform a "Short test" and correct all Drivetrain-related faults first.
3. [NEW] If the vehicle integration level (vehicle data status) is E065-07-03-800 or less, reprogram the vehicle using the latest version of Progman to E065-07-09-800 or higher.
4. Clear the EGS adaptations after programming is completed.
5. If after reprogramming, harsh downshifts are still felt, submit a regular PuMA case entitled "ZF shift quality". To be processed, the case must include ALL information listed in SI B24 23 07.
For "clunk" noise complaints in vehicles produced from 10/2002 up to and including 02/2003, inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.
For Situation B: "Clunk" noise complaints
1. Verify the complaint.
On vehicles produced from 03/2003 up to and including 08/2003, the only repair is to inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.
Note :There are no further EGS software changes for vehicles in this production period.
For Situation C: Harsh 3-2 downshift complaints
1. Verify that the transmission fluid level is correct.
2. Perform a "Short test" and correct all Drivetrain-related faults first.
3. Submit a Puma case entitled "Urban Program" to obtain the access code needed to complete the retrofit reprogramming of the EGS module.
4. Start a programming session using the latest version of Progman and select "Urban Program" from the retrofit options menu. The measures plan should indicate a higher programmed number and an EGS calibration change.
5. Clear the EGS adaptations after the programming is completed.
For "clunk" noise complaints in vehicles produced from 09/2003 up to and including 02/2005, inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

Originally Posted by Chillviper

I just got mine replaced yesterday under the SIB that covers the E65, otherwise it would have been about $800!

How did you go about doing this and did you have to pay anything out of pocket?

EXCELLENT write with pics & all! Finished up yesterday & gotta say the most PIA part was my exhaust bolt rusty as hell had to cut the off! I also have mention I removed the transmission mount it makes it 100 times easier to take off guibo as long as you use a ck to support the tranny to lower & raise back up much easier this way! I unfortunately was unable to unbolt rear drive shaft that top not was unreachableto get a good torque on it but no biggie I just attached new guibo to the tranny then attached drive shaft to new guibo with out taking it down!!! & honestly my old guibo didn't look that bad!!!