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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 05-30-2010, 06:05 AM
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Hooray! Hooray! is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I'll take a look. You're welcome to borrow pics as the intent is to edify.

I hope it covers the very last step (see below)...

Which is the correct orientation for the oil-filler plug!

Depends on whether you stand on your head or not when you look at your BMW! Honestly, it is a square cap, dont matter jack which way the marketing scribbles on it go... I'm thinking of getting an aftermarket billet aluminum one just because I dont use Castrol oil and dont want to read it every time I open my hood either upside down or right side up!
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  #77  
Old 05-30-2010, 08:11 AM
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BigCo540i BigCo540i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xraye39 View Post
bluebee,


don't take this the wrong way, but i don't know whether to laugh, cry or just marvel at your persistence.

+1
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  #78  
Old 05-31-2010, 01:00 PM
xraye39 xraye39 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
ORM? (It's not in the BMW E39 glossary)
ORM = Operational Risk Management, military parlance.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operati...isk_management
In reality what many of us do everyday without realizing it.

Basically what we do to assess risks, so in relation to the ramps one could apply the following.

IAMIS, easy to remember say "I am is"

Identify hazard: Using car ramps to lift car off ground.

Assess hazard : Improper use could cause car to fall off ramps and cause serious personnel injury of property damage.

Make a Plan: Have safety observer verbally guide driver to ensure all that all
wheels are square on ramps and do not go over end of ramp.

Implement Plan: Have safety observer guiding you.

Supervise: Make sure observer remains until process is complete, you don't
them running inside for a beer while you are driving up the ramp.

With your outstanding perseverance I am sure I am going to get back to this forum in 2 years and I will find DIY by you to completely dissamble and rebuild the E39 from the ground up!

Keep on rocking and please be safe
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NAV MKIV | PP | CWP | Xenons | Style 42s | Rear Shades | OEM ULF Bluetooth | Euro Armrest | Beisan Vanos Seals |

2003 530i/5Spd Sport - Titanium Silber/Schwarz Montana
| PP | Xenons | Style 42s | OEM TCU Bluetooth | Euro Armrest | Beisan Vanos Seals |

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Last edited by xraye39; 05-31-2010 at 01:21 PM.
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  #79  
Old 06-17-2010, 06:28 PM
mvillearock mvillearock is offline
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New to this forum and looks like this topic is pretty much dead I must give praise where it is due. Wanted to say many a thanks to all in this thread and BlueBee for relaying his fix for the snapped oil drain plug. Just did the same thing today, I wasn't even using a torque wrench, just clicked the ratchet one too many times. I thought I was going to have to tow to a shop to get it removed, but the #4 spiral got it right out... thank goodness. Might have to check this forum out a little more.

Much appreciated again!
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  #80  
Old 06-25-2010, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Note drain bolt washer orientation
When I first saw this picture (see above), I couldn't tell (from the picture) what the drain bolt washer orientation was supposed to be.

But, at the time, I had bigger problems, so I let it ride.

Today, to help out in another drain plug thread, I dug up the picture below, and realized the copper washer has a slight bevel on it that I hadn't noticed before.

Which way does the Mann copper washer go onto the oil drain bolt?
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  #81  
Old 06-28-2010, 03:04 PM
Cincy Cincy is offline
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Are those the proper torque values? It was hard to figure out which of the three torque values in the TIS applied (plus they are in Nm vs. ft.lbs.).
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  #82  
Old 06-28-2010, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cincy View Post
Are those the proper torque values?
Yes.
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  #83  
Old 08-22-2010, 09:25 AM
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I updated the picture in the earlier posts by annotating it (and fixing "C"rush washer).

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  #84  
Old 08-22-2010, 10:48 AM
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man that sucks! good luck mate!

*edit* very good thread! thanks bluebee for all the pics and info!!
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Last edited by gosee; 08-22-2010 at 11:01 AM.
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  #85  
Old 08-22-2010, 03:57 PM
filon102 filon102 is offline
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Usually, when i change my oil, i hand tight the filer housing. As for drain plug, i tight it up with my hand and tight it up with a socket from 12 o'clock position to 2' thats all. No problem ever since
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  #86  
Old 09-05-2010, 10:07 PM
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Is this the recommended list of parts to stock before an oil change?

- Oil filter & 91x4 O-ring & copper crush washer (Mann, Mahle, Hengst, or BMW P/N 11427512300)
- (1) oil pan drain bolt (M12x1.5x18, BMW P/N 11131273093)
- (1) extra copper crush washer (A12X17-CU, BMW P/N 07119963151)
- (2) oil filter stem o-rings (7x2.5, BMW P/N 11421744001)
- (2) dipstick handle o-rings (9x2.2, BMW P/N 11431717666)
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  #87  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:03 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Someone broke their oil drain plug today and he couldn't find any references on the topic, so I search for him (and found these which I'll post here as a cross reference).

Here is the search result for broken oil pan drain bolts:
- How not to change your oil in your E39 (stripped drain plug)
- Oil Drain Plug Shearing During Oil Change!
- Oil Pan bolt near disaster
- Broke the plug....
- Oil Plug Stripped! Now What ??
- URGENT: engine oil drain plug broke
- Broken oil plug & Broken oil plug!
- I Literally Want to Cry....
- Broken Oil Plug 0n E39 1998
- Magnetic oil drain bolt broke in half

Here is the search result for stripped oil pan threads:
- Drain plug / oil pan stripped on 2.8 Z3
- oil plug bad
- '92 325i-- oil drail plug stripped HEEEELP!
- Oil pan stripped (use level sensor as a drain plug)
- Oil pan stripped (weld plate over hole)
- Oilpan Leak! Help

Here is a good cn90 DIY on changing your oil the gravity feed way:
- DIY: E39 Changing engine oil made simple

And, read this BEFORE you select a vacuum extractor:
- DIY - BMW E39 Oil & Filter Change (vacuum extraction method)
- Why I don't recommend the Motive Vacuum Oil Extractor ...

Note the bevy of potential solutions:
- Use a 6mm wide screwdriver to spin the broken half out
- Use an EX-4 screw extractor (aka easy out) to spin the broken half out <-- recommended
- Reverse drill the steel broken half out of the aluminum oil pan
- Retap the stripped threads in the aluminum oil pan (but generally the bolt breaks before the threads strip)
- Wrap teflon tape on the threads of a new bolt and screw it in abutting the broken bolt half
- Heli-coil the stripped threads in the aluminum oil pan
- Drop the E39 V8 il pan to access the bolt if it fell through (dropping the E39 I6 oil pan is a nightmare)
- Weld over the hole and use the MightyVac oil extractor from the dipstick forever more
- Weld over the hole and use the oil level sensor as the drain plug instead
- Access the broken bolt inside the oil pan through the leveling sensor opening
- Buy an aftermarket oil drain bolt (e.g., EAS Tuning magnetic bolt, or Fumoto drain valve)
- Some people even bought a new oil pan!

Here's a one-line summary of all threads above for the E39 the VERY best of E39 Links thread:
- How to fix broken or stripped oil drain pan plug bolt threads (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17)

Last edited by bluebee; 10-07-2010 at 10:28 PM.
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  #88  
Old 10-19-2010, 04:11 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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As another example of how not to change your oil, see this V8 stripped oil drain plug thread.

Notice that the V8 plug is different than the I6 plug:
I6 = hollow, almost always the head breaks off, hard to remove pan
V8 = solid, often the threads strip on the plug, easy to remove pan

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  #89  
Old 10-27-2010, 09:02 PM
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For the record, to help others, I compressed the list of useful stripped oil pan drain bolt threads in the bestlinks thread for easier reference:
- How to fix broken or stripped oil drain pan plug bolt threads (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18)

And, I just found this nice cn90 multi-model BMW oil pan R&R and oil pan gasket DIY in the E39 forums (1) to help someone with a BMW 2000 528i leaky oil pan gasket who needed a BMW E39 528i oil pan gasket DIY.

STRAIGHT Fromt Mitchell Repair Book:

OIL PAN Removal
1. Drain engine oil. Disconnect wiring from oxygen sensor. Detach wiring from holder at transmission crossmember.

2. Remove bolts and exhaust pipes from exhaust manifold. On vehicles with automatic transmission, remove crossmember for center of gravity suspension.

3. Remove bolts, and detach exhaust pipe from transmission holder. Detach rubber rings from exhaust pipes. Remove rear bolts and lower exhaust assembly down.

4. On all models, release hinge at hood, and prop hood open past center position. Remove air cleaner/air mass sensor assembly.

5. Remove generator air intake duct.Remove rivets, and pull out radiator cooling fan cowl. Using Pulley Holder (11-5-030) and 32-mm Wrench (11-5-040), turn cooling fan nut clockwise to remove cooling fan. Remove clips at top of radiator.

6. On 3-series, remove grille from fresh air intake duct. Remove electrical lead along fresh air intake duct. Remove right holder and fresh air intake duct.

7. On all models, remove guide tube for engine oil dipstick. Note serpentine belt routing. Insert socket into drive belt tensioner bolt. Compress tensioner by slowly rotating socket clockwise, and remove drive belt.

8. Remove power steering pump bolts. Remove power steering pump. DO NOT disconnect power steering lines. Remove bolts and power steering pump oil supply tank. Hang power steering pump and oil tank aside.

9. On 3-series, insert socket into A/C compressor drive belt tensioner bolt. Compress tensioner by slowly rotating socket clockwise, and remove A/C compressor drive belt. Remove A/C compressor. DO NOT disconnect refrigerant lines.

10. Remove ground strap and right engine mount nut. Remove left engine mount nut. Loosen lower nuts on right/left engine mount. Attach Engine Holding Hoop (00-0-200) and Sling (00-0-204) to engine carrier. Raise engine as far as possible. Ensure wiring harness, ducts and hoses are not stretched or pinched.

11. On all models, remove oil pan bolts. Lower oil pan. Turn sprocket nut clockwise, and pull oil pump sprocket off splines. Remove bolts and oil strainer. Remove bolts and oil pump. Remove oil pan by pulling it rearward.

Installation
1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use Elastic Sealing Compound (3 Bond 1027B) to fill joints between oil pan and front timing case and rear cover.

2. Tighten oil pump sprocket nut counterclockwise. Nut uses left-hand threads. Ensure serpentine belt is correctly routed and properly seated in grooves. Turn 32-mm Wrench (11-5-040) counterclockwise, and tighten cooling fan nut. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .

2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC. Page 1 of 1 ENGINE - 6-CYL. (M52, S62) -2000 BMW 528i 2/17/2009 http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/printart.aspx

This is from M52 Motor for E46 so you can get the idea:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=665810


Last edited by bluebee; 10-27-2010 at 09:07 PM.
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  #90  
Old 10-28-2010, 03:36 AM
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Fleetman Fleetman is offline
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The debate about torque wrenches is very easy to resolve.....professionals use torque wrenches, hacks don't.

I don't care how long you've turned wrenches, there is no way you are going to "guess" torque correctly. The 5:30 - 7:00 method? That's great if it works for you but how close are you with your torque? I'll bet you're further off than you think!

I've turned wrenches for close to fifty years now.....torque specs are developed for a reason....not only does the torque ensure the fastener is tight enough but the torque specs also allow for heat/cold expansion/retraction.

You may be able to get by with not torqueing fasteners on these "little" engines/transmissions but see how long your career lasts (and the machine you're working on) when you're dealing with engines costing $750k and more and transmissions costing upwards of $500k.

The use of a good quality, calibrated torque wrench will ensure proper fastening and will not break bolts. In my experience, most people don't use torque wrenches properly either....once the wrench "clicks" they continue to turn and ultimately break a bolt.

Me? I'll continue to torque AND I have my torque wrenches calibrated regularly.

Last edited by Fleetman; 10-28-2010 at 03:41 AM. Reason: wasn't finished!
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  #91  
Old 10-28-2010, 10:05 AM
cn90 cn90 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleetman View Post
The debate about torque wrenches is very easy to resolve.....professionals use torque wrenches, hacks don't.

I don't care how long you've turned wrenches, there is no way you are going to "guess" torque correctly. The 5:30 - 7:00 method? That's great if it works for you but how close are you with your torque? I'll bet you're further off than you think!
I guess I am a Hack then hehe!

Well, many many professional mechanics (that I know) do not use Torque wrenches for simple jobs like oil changes etc because it wastes their time.
They use Torque wrenches only for critical jobs such as engine rebuilding, small nuts and bolts on the Valve Cover, Water Pump, i.e., the nuts and bolts that are easy to strip.

The 5:30 - 7:00 method was confirmed by myself using a Torque Wrench. I mark the nuts/bolts, and make note of what 30-35Nm turns the nut/bolt and noticed that the 5:30 - 7:00 method works well to achieve 30-35Nm. I did NOT mention The 5:30 - 7:00 thingy out of the blue!

PS: I have a high quality Torque Wrench that I use all the time. The problem with oil change at home for us DIYers is that: the car is on ramps and the ground clearance is not much, and using a Torque Wrench in such situation is very difficult.
Another place where it is very difficult to use Torque Wrench is the brake caliper bolts.

Last edited by cn90; 10-28-2010 at 10:08 AM.
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  #92  
Old 10-28-2010, 02:30 PM
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Fleetman Fleetman is offline
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I've been a hack myself plenty of times...lawn mowers, HD suspension parts, and some things I just didn't want to mess with a torque wrench. I do, however, use mine quite a lot.

Do I use one EVERY time? Nope! But, if I'm paid to tighten something, I torque it.

I saw a drain plug come out of the rear oil pan on a Cat 3516 once while under full load.....the engine was turning at 1900 rpm and because of the oil demand at full pressure (and probably being a little low on oil), prevented the front pan from keeping the rear pan full enough to keep the pump primed....it was all over before the low oil level sensors could detect. Damage was limited to bearings and crankshaft. A new engine and 6 weeks of removal/replacement brought it back on line. $20m dollars in lost production and $250k for engine replacement. A simple loose drain plug caused it all.

Sorry to bore you with the story but....I torque!!

Carry on.....
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  #93  
Old 10-28-2010, 02:35 PM
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oops, sorry not done yet....


Quote:
bolts that are easy to strip
....you didn't mean that did you??

Ask bluebee and a few others in here about stripped plugs. I'm only trying to make my point.
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  #94  
Old 10-28-2010, 09:45 PM
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FIA FIA is offline
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I use the Femco no spill drain plug kit on my truck and I will be adding one to the BMW soon. No more busting bolts, replacing copper washers or cleaning oil from the garage floor.

To install you replace your drain plug with the one in the kit. The plug screws into the pan and has a threaded outer sleeve. (sticking out from the pan) The drain hose has a brass fitting on one end whcih screws onto the ourter sleeve of the drain plug and this actuates the valve inside the fitting and the oil starts flowing.


You won't need a single tool to slide under the car and get the oil draining, and I can direct the drain tube anywhere I want. No mess at all.


When you're finished, remove the drain tube and cover the plug with a nice protective brass cap. The fitting seals the pan automatically when you remove the hose the cap just keeps dirt out.

http://www.westernfleet.com/femco_plugs.php
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  #95  
Old 11-23-2010, 06:16 AM
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energizedmortal energizedmortal is offline
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my oil drain plug was leaking so i went to Bmw and bought a new plug and washer. Installed it (no free spinning all is tight) last night and all seemed well, this morning i saw a small puddle again and the same leak at the bottom of the drain plug is back...what's going on here do i need a bigger bolt? weld the thing and drain from sensor? use two washers?
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  #96  
Old 11-23-2010, 06:28 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Are you sure it is from the drain plug? Maybe the oil filter housing gasket?
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  #97  
Old 11-23-2010, 06:33 AM
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energizedmortal energizedmortal is offline
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its leaking enough that i have to add a quart every 1500 miles. how long should the oil housing/gasket last? i got it done 30 k ago but didn't do it myself and have read that the gasket is not compatible with synthetic oil...i hope besian finds out about this

Last edited by energizedmortal; 11-23-2010 at 08:13 PM.
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  #98  
Old 11-23-2010, 08:11 PM
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energizedmortal energizedmortal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
Are you sure it is from the drain plug? Maybe the oil filter housing gasket?
thanks for the suggestion upon further inspection oil is weeping down from driver side and across pan and falling off drain plug. once i confirm its the oil housing and/or gasket i will be using your ccv DIY to do that while im there

Last edited by energizedmortal; 11-23-2010 at 08:20 PM.
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  #99  
Old 11-24-2010, 09:02 AM
cn90 cn90 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by energizedmortal View Post
.....gasket is not compatible with synthetic oil...
Where did you read this, "National Inquirer" magazine???
Of course the OFH gasket is compatible with engine oil because it is designed for that.

When dealing with any oil leak in any car, the best thing you can do is:
- Degrease the dirty area and rinse it with gentle stream of water.
- Then check for oil leak everyday after work with flashlight and mirror.
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  #100  
Old 11-24-2010, 09:24 AM
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energizedmortal energizedmortal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Where did you read this, "National Inquirer" magazine???
Of course the OFH gasket is compatible with engine oil because it is designed for that.

When dealing with any oil leak in any car, the best thing you can do is:
- Degrease the dirty area and rinse it with gentle stream of water.
- Then check for oil leak everyday after work with flashlight and mirror.

will do

Last edited by energizedmortal; 11-25-2010 at 05:53 AM.
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