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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#26
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You can wish but that is not going to happen on my watch haha. Most fan explosion happens on V8, and on the I6 it is on neglected cars. My car will have cooling overhaul every 80K, so these things don't have a chance to misbehave. |
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#27
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nevertheless, I put this mod out there so others can see their options, not to be argued and personal japing. |
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#28
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The reason I don't worry about the the fan clutch and fan blade because: - When I overhauled my cooling system at 90K, everything was original and there were no signs of problems yet, no leak nothing, so I did the overhaul as a preventive measure. - So if I overhaul the system every 80K, it should be OK. - Plus I select every component (such as thermostat, water pump) carefully. I think people who have WP failure at 25K probably had a bad brand. I have had "HEPU" WP (Hepus is used a lot in Volvo forums) now for almost 5 years, knock on wood, zero issues. Your mod will certainly help those who want to pursue it though. One day, I might do this mod (I am also looking into the Volvo fan as in the E30 DIY). Great DIY though. |
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#29
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#30
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Actually the BMW techs consensus about exploding radiator fans is because of failed engine mounts. When the clutch fails, it only accelerates the matter. And because the v8 has more torque, the engine mounts fail earlier. There were also quite a few posts with people experiencing the 2nd failed fan and not knowing why. Once the mounts were changed, the fans lasted.
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint Stable: e39 M54, e53 N62 & Tribby |
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#31
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Final update
Okay so after a few weeks of having the electric fan and clutch fan delete here is my impression.
Acceleration is definitely an improvement, it feels peppy and nimble. On the butt-dyno probably 10HP and the Placebo Effect is about 25 ![]() Noise wise this is very quiet. If the car next to me have their window closed, they won't hear my fan comes on at all. Since it is Winter here and the ambient temp is in the teen this fan never comes on I can't wait till the Summer. However I did the test in the garage, I let it idle, and eventually after 10 minutes with OBC unlocked and test 7 display 97 degree Celsius, the fan kicked on but within 40 seconds it shut off and temperature went down to 95C, this is awesome! Here are some new pix, and BTW I went and completed the Mrs's 528 too, Check out the pix.
Last edited by 16valex; 01-17-2011 at 12:40 PM. |
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#32
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Bravo 16Valex! What a great thread!
Should be 'stickied' somewhere (?)
__________________
![]() OEM BBS Style 42 (18x9) | Conti DW 245/40-18 | KraftStab Strut Bar | Bilstein Sports | Vogtland Springs | Eibach Sway Bars | Mason Sway Bar Links | e36 M3 Steering Wheel | Biarritz Blue Metallic | Nimble & Graceful
Portland BMW Club Member |
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#33
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Thanks Graham! So when are you going to do your. I tell you some thing, I redline this car all the time now and not even think twice doing it. Best bang for the buck!
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#34
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Next project: Electric Water Pump.
I believe most newer BMW engines already use electric fan & electric water pump; it's one way for those engines to have more HP than those made of yesterday.
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'97 528i, 5-speed OEM Angel Headlight from '01+ OEM LED Taillight from '01+ |
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#35
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Hello Valex, not sure if you're still with us, but I certainly hope so.
I am a little slow with electrical. Could you please elaborate in more detail the wiring part of the setup? I am seriously considering the swap, and your setup looked OEM. As I said, the only hard part is the electrical wiring and a step-by-step for "dummies" would be awsome (if you can still remember how you did it), also it seems you sourced some sort of plastic covers for the spliced locations? Do you have info on it? Thanks
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint Stable: e39 M54, e53 N62 & Tribby |
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#36
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This is one of the most overblown concerns I have ever heard about, on a par with global warming panic. The fan clutch on the I6 will NEVER explode without warning, as you will hear it making noise long before it ever gets to that point.
In addition, if you change the clutch with every cooling system overhaul - which all good E39-ers are doing every 100k or so, you will always be way ahead of any potential clutch problems. We have enough issues to deal with on these cars, without creating pointless worries. On the subject of HP gain - are you serious? Its less than a rounding error!
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. "Voters will always choose the beautiful lie over the uncomfortable truth" Last edited by terrystu; 08-25-2011 at 01:32 PM. |
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#37
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This is 100% placebo. I get the exact same butt-dyno results when I wash my car. . |
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#38
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![]() ![]()
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#39
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The car was definitely more "torquey" when pulling off from a stand still. Not believing it I asked a friend to either take the fan off or leave it on and don't tell me. Let me drive it around and guess. In 5 tries, I guessed correctly because I felt a difference. Of course one can argue I can listen for the fan or not. Curious as to why it would feel different I looked at the serpentine belt diagram and you can clearly see that when it engages or disengages it affects the water pump, alternator and harmonic balancer. Given the resistance to spinning or moving air when the clutch engages, you can see that it impact belt and pulley movement in the diagram below. So my butt dyno says otherwise even at the expense of being flamed for my observation. Will it make me eliminate the fan clutch? Not sure yet. I do have a Ford Taurus fan, relays and temperature sensor ready for a swap but have not done so yet. I would do it not for the gains of the torque but because I feel an electric fan set up with a self adjustable temperature range can actually cool the radiator at a better range than a viscous coupled fan. Last edited by dvsgene; 08-25-2011 at 01:58 PM. |
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#40
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What exactly do you wash on your car that reduces drive train loss cause I want some of that! ![]() More interesting was that the car made more power on average with no fan than it did with any of the 3 sets of under drive pulleys we were actually there to test installed!
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#41
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Replace the clutch and fan at 100K miles doesn't mean you totally proof of fan hits the ceiling. Electric fan is way to go. No explosion disaster. More HP Longer life of WP Reliable cooling system. |
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#42
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So Alex, can you please elaborate on the electrical wiring, please? To me the pics you posted, I cannot see which are the wires from the electrical fan and where you spliced them. Could you somehow label them on the pics, both the fan wires and the donor ones?
Thanks
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint Stable: e39 M54, e53 N62 & Tribby |
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#43
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I don't have any access to my stuffs at the moment, but if you have any questions just PM me. |
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#44
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As Alex stated, the schematics come with the temperature sensor kit. If you can install a Hualignan, you can easily install an electric fan. If you study these four schematics, they all share the same wiring setup, it just depends on how you want it controlled or switched. Personally, I think fabricating or designing a mount and making it look OEM after all is said and done is harder. Last edited by dvsgene; 08-25-2011 at 03:14 PM. |
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#45
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Thank you guys very much.
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint Stable: e39 M54, e53 N62 & Tribby |
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#46
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+1 So true, my car always feels faster right after I wash it. Moreso when I wax it. I suppose someone will now attribute that to a lowering of both wind resistance and weight.
__________________
. "Voters will always choose the beautiful lie over the uncomfortable truth" |
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#47
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As far as the fan, you are more than welcome to try my unscientific experiment as well. It should be much more noticeable on a smaller 6 cylinder. You might get under 7 sec 0-60 with the delete. Last edited by dvsgene; 08-25-2011 at 03:32 PM. |
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#48
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@ 16 valex - If the magnetic clutch on the fan explodes - that will be very rare within 75K miles and not due to lack of maint; unless if it blew up at 150K miles (for example). Freak accidents happen in many areas, not just with a fan clutch..... Remember anything is possible, and accidents are things that were unpreventable.... My friends and I have E39 528i's; all 2000 and on down to 1997. This has never happened to us.... Like I said, if it does - it's very rare. If there is noise while using a brand new Sachs magnetic fan clutch, then oh my gosh, - it's not that bad; and anyone can get over it.... I do a cooling system overhaul every two years or so; new radiator, upper/lower hoses, fan clutch, thermostat, coolant fluid, temp sensors, etc; (I drive a lot, across the West Texas desert between El Paso, TX and San Antonio, TX).... It's Not that hard to take off the fan clutch at all.... As of matter of fact, I dont ever need to use a "fan clutch locking tool" to take off my fan clutch; just a simple adjustable wrench, a sharp knock, and it loosens up. (Never stripped the fan clutch nut either). The fan blades, w/fan clutch, come off easily from under the car - without having to take off the fan shroud. That easy....
I'm not here to say that your mod wasn't nice. It was awesome and very creative! I really did like it. BUT, I'm here to let the other readers know, that it's not going to make a big difference to do this mod; spending the extra cash and time. Readers be assured that your OEM fan clutch is just fine and will work great as long as you change it out when it's due to be changed; and dont be trying to "milk" it.... "peas"! |
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#49
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besides the reduction of one weak point of the cooling system, i love how it actually IMPROVES the life of the water pump. double + for me. ill be doing this very very soon.
anyone have a used 540i shroud they can sell me cheap?
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#50
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