Z3 Vacuum Brake Bleeding

I am getting ready to replace the brake pads and rotors on my 2001 Z3 3.0i Roadster (brake package from Turner Motorsport). I intended to also install the brass bushing kit (and bought two sets), but after reading a few posts about the maintenance issues these have for a street car, I think now I will just install new OEM rubber bushings.

I have always had the brake fluid changed and bled by the dealer (assuming they would use the factory recommended pressure bleeding system), but since I will have the car off the ground and the wheels off doing the brakes, I thought I would just go ahead and do a brake fluid change and bleed while I am at it. I have done brake fluid changes and bleeding on my motorcycles and on non-BMW cars. I generally use Ate TYP 200 Gold for everything, and this is what I intend to use in the Z3. I have a Mityvac vacuum brake bleeding system (the one that connects to an air compressor and uses venturi effect to create the vacuum) that I have used with great success on motorcycle brakes. It makes brake fluid changing and bleeding a simple one-person operation (you only have to be careful not to suck the master cylinder dry, which is pretty simple on a motorcycle, and would be easier on a car with a second person watching the master cylinder and letting you know when the fluid level is getting low). My understanding of the official BMW brake bleeding system is that it is a pressure system and cycles the ABS/DSC solenoids during the procedure.

My question is this (I have searched the forum and do not see this specific question addressed). Assuming you do not have any air in the brake system (and I don't), is there any technical reason to not change and bleed the brake fluid on an ABS/DSC Z3 using this vacuum system rather than the official BMW procedure?

You'll be fine with the Mityvac. I believe there is only an issue with ABS/DSC solenoids if you somehow manage to empty the reservoir and get air into the system.