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X5 E53 (1999 - 2006)
The X5 SAV Forum

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  #76  
Old 03-08-2010, 10:44 AM
Raimo Raimo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyone View Post
I have an 03 4.4 had this issuue oil seperator faild four times now bmw as put a heating jacket around the oil seperator so we see how this works
won't help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyone View Post
had a conversation with a mechanic and his advice to this problem is to change the oil every two months
won't help either.
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  #77  
Old 03-08-2010, 11:05 AM
Raimo Raimo is offline
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photo taken about 30min ago with outside temp about -4 degree C

Last edited by Raimo; 03-08-2010 at 11:10 AM.
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  #78  
Old 01-20-2011, 11:25 AM
BethL BethL is offline
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I bought a 2004 X5 in 2007 and have had the same issue EVERY winter. Each time I bring it in, they claim to have a 'new fix.' So much for that. The only good thing I can say is that the dealership has never charged me a dime to fix it. I too live in MN and fully expect it to fail again soon. If you find something that really works, I'd love to know what that is!
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  #79  
Old 01-20-2011, 11:39 AM
Zulu95's Avatar
Zulu95 Zulu95 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanesq View Post
Why should something like this ever be an issue on a $50K vehicle?
Because it makes $tealers and BMW a LOT of money for repairs!!
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  #80  
Old 01-21-2011, 06:52 AM
BlackPearlX5 BlackPearlX5 is offline
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Angry Do you have a Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) Warranty?

I am just wondering because my original owner 2003 with all service records E53 cost me +$800 last year to have the oil separator replaced with a cold-weather version. Unfortunately, the dreaded sludge is back again just this past December. Very frustrating. Daily trips to work are about 40 minutes each way.
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  #81  
Old 01-21-2011, 07:34 AM
BlackPearlX5 BlackPearlX5 is offline
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Thumbs down Have completely lost confidence in this car

I will no longer let my wife drive this car when the temperature gets below 20. This car is garaged overnight where the temp hovers around 40 degrees. However, she goes to work and the car sits out all day in the freezing cold. I can only assume this is when the hoses are freezing up.

When it is cold she will have to drive the more reliable 1998 Ford Taurus station wagon my grandfather gave me.
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  #82  
Old 01-21-2011, 10:01 AM
HPIA4v2 HPIA4v2 is offline
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The second picture shows very clean oil separator, the funnel shape plastic part, at least the port that conect to driver valve cover. The hose looks in good condition but plugged with sludge badly.
I wonder if dealer replace the back cover of intake manifold? there is a rubber diagphram that can fail due to sludge and old age. Unfortunately hard to get to since the intake and fuel rail may have to come out, so I doubt they'll do this under CPO.

Also do you:
-use BMW oil, full syntetic 0-30W.
-drive on open freeway from time to time at 60-70MPH, for oh.. 15-20 miles.

I don't drive my X5 that much, but @70kmiles, the sludge problem on those hoses are less than yours.
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  #83  
Old 01-21-2011, 11:53 AM
almostdone almostdone is offline
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Well it was a neg 23 degrees this morning in beautiful snow covered MN and the first time in 4 years, I did not have my car go up in black smoke. The fix they put in last year worked this morning. A little too late as my new car will be here next week if it will make it through this cold snap. Last year they put in some type of little heater, not the heat tape. I can hear it running sometimes. If you are still having the oil separator issue, make sure they are putting in this little heater thing. Also, this year I made sure that I has an oil change right befor the weather turned cold so they could check everything out to make sure it was still ok, I made it perfectly clear that if something happened this year, they would be paying for the fix again. The dealers here are frustrated also. It is a sad situation. Anyone want to by an X5? Just kidding.

Last edited by almostdone; 01-21-2011 at 12:05 PM.
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  #84  
Old 01-21-2011, 02:15 PM
BlackPearlX5 BlackPearlX5 is offline
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Question about the heater

Is it the heater you refer to the wrapper around the crankcase vent hoses? This looks like it is closed circuit (no motor). If you can hear it sometimes might they have installed some sort of motorized heater? Do you have a picture or part#>

I am scared to death this is going to happen again.
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  #85  
Old 01-21-2011, 05:44 PM
almostdone almostdone is offline
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I am sorry, I am not savvy when it comes to cars so i would not even know what I am looking for to provide more information. All I know is that they told me it is a little heater, not the heat tape, I hope that makes sense. They did the heat tape the first 2 times. I think I read you live in MN, make sure you go to BMW Motorworks in Bloomington, they are great to work with. I certainly understand your fear. My car has been in 4 times for this issue, towed three. 2 times I was stranded in the country when it was 20 below zero. the other time was from my garage as a billow of black smoke poured out. The first time I did not know what was going on and I drove it to the dealership. I can't even let it warm up, I start it and pretty much go to get the engine warm as quick as possible, anytime I let it sit idle for too long is when I have the problem, except when the engine is warm. I do not trust my car whatsoever, which is the reason why i am finally getting rid of it. Summer is fine, but winter is torment. I pray everytime I start it when it is under 20 degrees-but unfortunately it does not do the freeze up until about 5-10miles after I get going so I am usually in a remote area. I wish you luck with this problem, it is misery to deal with.
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  #86  
Old 01-26-2011, 09:50 AM
aimtimes100 aimtimes100 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanesq View Post
Why should something like this ever be an issue on a $50K vehicle?
its llike what i always said to my one friends.just cause it costs more doesn't mean its better
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  #87  
Old 01-26-2011, 10:10 AM
aimtimes100 aimtimes100 is offline
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and i thought i was just one of the few to get a ****ty X5 but now this just seems like an issue that every person has unless the live in texas or something.this is just another reason too add to the list of "why my X5 and probably BMW in general, sucks"
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  #88  
Old 01-27-2011, 09:13 AM
BlackPearlX5 BlackPearlX5 is offline
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Anybody tried an oil pan heater?

I have been doing some research and it seems up in Canada these are commonplace:

"While the block heater heats up the coolant around the cylinders to make starting easier in cold temps, it has very little effect on the engine oil, unless you plug in the block heater immediately after shutting down the engine for the day. This oil pan heater can reduce warm-up and EBP valve on times as well as cure the sluggishness associated with cold, thick oil. The 5X7 inch oil pan heater pad adheres to the side of the oil pan and has a 72" cord. The pad has a 500 watt rating and will raise the oil temperature on a 15-quart sump from 60 to 160 degrees in 30 minutes. Plug in the oil pan heater 6-8 hrs (over night is best) before driving depending on the temperature. Oil pan heaters can reduce warm-up and EBP valve on times as well as cure the sluggishness associated with cold, thick oil. Saves warm-up time, saves fuel, prolongs battery life, provides immediate defrosting, improved starting reliability for emergency units. Reduced engine wear 90% of engine wear is due to low water jacket temperature, stops destructive condensation, extends time between overhauls. Environment protection eliminates “white smoke” upon startup, reduces idle time, engine is ready for clean full power operation, reduces noise pollution, no high idle speed".

Also, Amazon has one for under $25: http://www.amazon.com/Kats-1153-Hand.../dp/B000BOABS6
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  #89  
Old 02-02-2011, 05:59 AM
BethL BethL is offline
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Heater Grid for X5

Quote:
Originally Posted by almostdone View Post
Well it was a neg 23 degrees this morning in beautiful snow covered MN and the first time in 4 years, I did not have my car go up in black smoke. The fix they put in last year worked this morning. A little too late as my new car will be here next week if it will make it through this cold snap. Last year they put in some type of little heater, not the heat tape. I can hear it running sometimes. If you are still having the oil separator issue, make sure they are putting in this little heater thing. Also, this year I made sure that I has an oil change right befor the weather turned cold so they could check everything out to make sure it was still ok, I made it perfectly clear that if something happened this year, they would be paying for the fix again. The dealers here are frustrated also. It is a sad situation. Anyone want to by an X5? Just kidding.
I just checked my last invoice from BMW (I've had the oil separator issue for YEARS). They installed a 'heater grid for the oil separator.' Hope that helps. Unfortunately, that's all it said, so if it has a technical name, it didn't show it. Also, the manager at Motorwerks actually told me - 'don't expect that to work.' So, there you go.
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  #90  
Old 02-02-2011, 06:45 AM
HPIA4v2 HPIA4v2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BethL View Post
I just checked my last invoice from BMW (I've had the oil separator issue for YEARS). They installed a 'heater grid for the oil separator.' Hope that helps. Unfortunately, that's all it said, so if it has a technical name, it didn't show it. Also, the manager at Motorwerks actually told me - 'don't expect that to work.' So, there you go.
For that heater to work, it needs to be on about an hour or two before you start the engine/driving off, after parking on the open lot at work/mall/grocery store etc when temp is below zero for example.
It can't stay on all the time when engine is off or your battery will be dead.
Now if it's only on when you start the engine and you have frozen water/oil (oil always have some water in it) already, it won't do you any good cause the crank-case presure build right away.
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  #91  
Old 02-02-2011, 08:34 AM
BethL BethL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HPIA4v2 View Post
For that heater to work, it needs to be on about an hour or two before you start the engine/driving off, after parking on the open lot at work/mall/grocery store etc when temp is below zero for example.
It can't stay on all the time when engine is off or your battery will be dead.
Now if it's only on when you start the engine and you have frozen water/oil (oil always have some water in it) already, it won't do you any good cause the crank-case presure build right away.

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing. This only heats when the vehicle is running, so there's no way to have it on for an hour before you start the engine. Perhaps there are different varieties.
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  #92  
Old 02-10-2011, 01:57 PM
Raimo Raimo is offline
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I have a solution that works and costs less than $10. It's more of a "hack", but it works for me. There is no other way (besides heating it) to make it work without having to redesign the CCV.

Last edited by Raimo; 02-13-2011 at 01:29 AM.
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  #93  
Old 02-11-2011, 08:14 AM
HPIA4v2 HPIA4v2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raimo View Post
I have a solution that works and costs less than $10. It's more of a "hack", but it works for me. There is no other way (besides heating it) to make it work without having to redesing the CCV.
Maybe you can share that with the forums, though I can't see how.

For eample, you drive to work assuming you have sludge + water in oil already, park the car at work, uncover, for 8-10 hours in sub-freezing temp (like right now in Midwest).
By now the water freezes inside the hose already, you are going home, get in the car, start it (the heater just gets going cause it uses ACC power from battery), too late. The crank case presure build up instantly upon engine start, you may have hydro lock and bust the engine in seconds, before the heater even get a chance to thaw the freezing hoses.

I agree, if you have oil heater under the engine ala rig/trucks in Alaska, you won't have problem since it'll keep the oil pan and engine above freezing.
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  #94  
Old 02-13-2011, 01:56 AM
Raimo Raimo is offline
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Use a simple spring operated pressure relief valve that vents the crank case pressure to the atmosphere. It's a valve for 1/4" pipes and it's adj. for 0-8bar. The 1/4" size is not suitable for the ccv hoses, so i got a adapter and T-piece for bigger size (it was 1/2 if i remember correctly) and the it's nearly perfect. I adjusted it so I could push it open with my own breath.
Though the valve is small, I haven't had a problem with sludge/oil/water blocking the valve. It makes a funny buzzy sound so if the radio isn't too loud, you can hear it working and then i'll just ease off with the throttle.
You'll probably find in a store that sells pneumatic tools and accessories. If you search more, you probably could find a valve with a better smaller adj. range but there aren't many shops selling these in my area.

Here a picture of the valve itself:

Last edited by Raimo; 02-13-2011 at 01:58 AM.
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  #95  
Old 02-13-2011, 03:24 PM
HPIA4v2 HPIA4v2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raimo View Post
Use a simple spring operated pressure relief valve that vents the crank case pressure to the atmosphere. It's a valve for 1/4" pipes and it's adj. for 0-8bar. The 1/4" size is not suitable for the ccv hoses, so i got a adapter and T-piece for bigger size (it was 1/2 if i remember correctly) and the it's nearly perfect. I adjusted it so I could push it open with my own breath.
Though the valve is small, I haven't had a problem with sludge/oil/water blocking the valve. It makes a funny buzzy sound so if the radio isn't too loud, you can hear it working and then i'll just ease off with the throttle.
You'll probably find in a store that sells pneumatic tools and accessories. If you search more, you probably could find a valve with a better smaller adj. range but there aren't many shops selling these in my area.

Here a picture of the valve itself:
I like that, thinking outside the box. But I'd use the one that kinda hard to open for just in case situation.
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  #96  
Old 02-18-2011, 09:23 AM
fiat84 fiat84 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raimo View Post
Use a simple spring operated pressure relief valve that vents the crank case pressure to the atmosphere. It's a valve for 1/4" pipes and it's adj. for 0-8bar. The 1/4" size is not suitable for the ccv hoses, so i got a adapter and T-piece for bigger size (it was 1/2 if i remember correctly) and the it's nearly perfect. I adjusted it so I could push it open with my own breath.
Though the valve is small, I haven't had a problem with sludge/oil/water blocking the valve. It makes a funny buzzy sound so if the radio isn't too loud, you can hear it working and then i'll just ease off with the throttle.
You'll probably find in a store that sells pneumatic tools and accessories. If you search more, you probably could find a valve with a better smaller adj. range but there aren't many shops selling these in my area.

Here a picture of the valve itself:
How long has your fix been in use, does it work in very cold temperatures?
Where exactly did you slice the T connection in, am thinking the highest point?
Would you post a few pics of your install as reference for others.
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  #97  
Old 12-03-2012, 11:38 AM
Tintkiller Tintkiller is offline
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I have a 2002 x-5 3.0 runs great , drives great. I have 224,000 miles and live where it is hot, north georgia, most of the year. I have had to replace the oil separator in the past and it needs it again !!!! WHy doesn't BMW have a replacement part that solves this problem ??? I don't think I should be paying to replace this so often. My 3.0 , 5series (4 ) in a row, never had this problem to my knowledge. Will Bmw warranty this to some degree , since it is a faulty design ??
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  #98  
Old 12-29-2012, 11:42 PM
racebmwm3 racebmwm3 is offline
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Just finding about this now, although not currently having an issue. Sounds like its only a matter of time.
There's got to be a better solution. Is it out of the question to essentially delete the CCV? How about modify it in some way? I understand this would be a custom solution of some kind.
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  #99  
Old 12-30-2012, 03:24 AM
Graham132white Graham132white is offline
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Getting rid of the CCV and having a pressure valve blow by gas vent would work but your putting hazardous gasses and un burnt fuel directly into the atmosphere.. It's just wrong and is a step back in technology... Fuel economy goes backward....etc etc etc..
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  #100  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:01 AM
upallnight upallnight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HT417 View Post
.................... I really don't get what's so special about their design that they can't make it lower maintenance and lower priced.
Nothing really special about their designed it just that we Americans have drank for the BMW's "Kool Aide" of hype that it's GERMAN Engineered and of course we all know that anything engineered by the Germans is better except maybe for the "Hindenberg".

LOL
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