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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 02-10-2011, 05:29 PM
snookay snookay is offline
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Car Won't start immediately anymore

I recently had an old fuel line go seriously bad so i replaced both hoses. Since that time my car will not start as soon as i turn the key. If i let the car sit overnight it may take 10-15 seconds (earlier today it took 1 minute) before the engine will catch and start. If the car has just been driven it seems to start in 3-5 seconds, sometimes immediately. I never had an issue cranking this car no matter how many days/weeks/months it sat between uses. A guy at advanced autoparts checked my battery and alternator. Both gave off like new readings. The advanced auto guy suggested that it may be the fuel pump not sending fuel to my engine. Once the car is turned on there are zero issues. At all speeds I feel my car take off when I give it a little or a lot of gas.

Can anyone suggest something I should trouble shoot for an issue like this?

Last edited by snookay; 02-10-2011 at 05:31 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-10-2011, 07:20 PM
clamdiver clamdiver is offline
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recheck the hose fittings. maybe try a check valve and see if that helps???
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  #3  
Old 02-10-2011, 09:13 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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sounds like there might be a slight leak and the fuel returns to the tank when sitting. the length of start times depends on how much fuel gets pulled back to the tank. there was a guy one here that sold check valve kits. cant remember him thou
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:41 PM
snookay snookay is offline
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I'm going to remove and tighten the lines again first. Can someone confirm whether or not the fact that "At all speeds I feel my car take off when I give it a little or a lot of gas" means that I do not need a fuel pump?
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  #5  
Old 02-17-2011, 02:44 PM
djborya djborya is offline
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Check your cold start valve.

B.

Last edited by djborya; 02-17-2011 at 02:45 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-20-2011, 08:33 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snookay View Post
I'm going to remove and tighten the lines again first. Can someone confirm whether or not the fact that "At all speeds I feel my car take off when I give it a little or a lot of gas" means that I do not need a fuel pump?
lets talk electrical motors real quick. most of the time, when good, they start right up and run like they should. when they start becoming old and worn, they might take a bit to start but run just fine after a few moments.

a way to test this, connect a VOM meter inline with the positive wire at the fuel pump. turn the VOM to amps. when you start the car, it should pull the highest amount of amps within a couple seconds, so the reading will jump around alot at first, then lower down to a few amps and sit. if its going bad, then amp draw will stay high then start goin down slowly.
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  #7  
Old 02-21-2011, 04:46 PM
tim96 tim96 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snookay View Post
I'm going to remove and tighten the lines again first. Can someone confirm whether or not the fact that "At all speeds I feel my car take off when I give it a little or a lot of gas" means that I do not need a fuel pump?
yeap as downhiller said, you cant rule it out just because it runs fine while driving, this was actually exactly what happened with my last car. Has the pump being noisy?
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  #8  
Old 10-10-2012, 07:39 AM
jwrape jwrape is offline
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My Z3M has started doing the same thing. When we first bought it, it would ALWAYS take 3 times of spinning it over before it would run.

Just recently it is starting to take 14 seperate spin overs before it starts.



Could mine be that Cold Start Valve?

I have already replaced the fuel pump due to the gas gauge not working. I am about to replace the fuel filter although I don't think that's it cause the car runs great after it starts
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  #9  
Old 10-10-2012, 06:07 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Cold start injector; fuel pressure; fuel pump; fuel filter; pressure regulator. I don't see this as an electrical/CPS type problem. Could a small part of the old hose found its way into the injector rail? Just a thought.
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  #10  
Old 10-10-2012, 06:14 PM
fordent fordent is offline
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Bad fuel sensor

See my post labeled "out of gas i had a sensor reporting the wrong level of gas and ended up running out of gas. After that i had difficulty starting the car took a few cranks in most cases. I believe you get air in the lines and it takes a while to get that worked out of the system.

Fordent
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  #11  
Old 10-11-2012, 01:57 AM
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Nick323 Nick323 is offline
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Exclamation How to break your fuel pump in 1 easy step

Problem is when you run out of fuel, you suck all the gunk in your tank into your fuel pump
I get a lot of cars in that have a fuel pump destroyed by grit or air lock.
Some cars have a in tank fuel pump that is cooled by the fuel. No fuel no cooling &
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  #12  
Old 10-11-2012, 05:34 AM
jwrape jwrape is offline
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I haven't run it out of gas and I DID just put a new fuel pump assembly in the car, but I do have a new fuel filter coming in the mail as well as new Crankshaft Position Sensor. The Cold Start Valve will be the next thing I replace if these two things do not fix it.
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  #13  
Old 10-12-2012, 08:27 PM
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Pressure check on fuel rail.
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  #14  
Old 10-12-2012, 09:04 PM
BMWEnthus BMWEnthus is offline
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Where is the cold start valve located?

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  #15  
Old 10-12-2012, 09:08 PM
BMWEnthus BMWEnthus is offline
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Does the pump have a fuel sock on it? It like a preliminary filter ive seen them on old chevy they help when you run low and block any particles id say 1/50th of an inch if that from getting through and then had the primary at the carb do these have them?

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  #16  
Old 10-12-2012, 09:33 PM
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Cold start injector usually in center square bit of inlet manifold. While you are at it get ALL injectors rig cleaned and tested. Air in system should be flowed out fairly fast by circulating fuel and end up in the gas (petrol) tank.
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  #17  
Old 10-13-2012, 04:06 AM
jwrape jwrape is offline
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Last night I changed the fuel filter and the Crankshaft postion sensor.
This morning I drove it to work but the true test will be after I go back out to the car and see how it starts.

This morning it took 3 attempts to start it. I don't know if that was due to air in the fuel lines or what. This afternoon will give me a better baseline.
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  #18  
Old 10-13-2012, 10:30 AM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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you may have a leak within the fuel system to where the fuel is bleeding back to the tank
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  #19  
Old 10-13-2012, 10:33 AM
jwrape jwrape is offline
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It doesn't seem to be leaking unless it's going into the tank. I am still getting 24mpg on the highway. That seems too good if it was leaking. Is there a check valve that can leak back into the tank?
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  #20  
Old 10-13-2012, 10:44 AM
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unless theres an internal check valve in the fuel pump, id have to say no. but i dont know the z3m very well
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  #21  
Old 10-14-2012, 01:23 PM
jwrape jwrape is offline
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Originally Posted by downhiller View Post
unless theres an internal check valve in the fuel pump, id have to say no. but i dont know the z3m very well
No, there isn't I just changed mine and it's a normal everyday fuel pump. Very simple pump.


Today i put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and while just sitting it's 20psi, when cranking it's over 40psi. Seems that the fuel rail is getting plenty of fuel.

This leads me to something in the ignition not wanting to work all the time.

It is starting to take more and more turn overs before it runs now.

Sometimes it seems as if it won't run and I keep trying and it finally does start and runs perfect. Something is going bad and being erratic. The car is extremely moody now
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  #22  
Old 10-14-2012, 03:50 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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should be higher then 20psi. should be more around 30. you may have a bad fpr or the vacuum line has a leak in it
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  #23  
Old 10-14-2012, 09:35 PM
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+1 fuel rail should hold better than 20psi. That is a likely cause of the bad start - waiting for fuel pressure to build up.
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  #24  
Old 10-15-2012, 07:03 PM
jwrape jwrape is offline
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The pressure goes up instantly when the key is turned, but the motor can turn over 20+ times or more and it won't start. It's getting fuel because after it starts you can smell it run rich for a few seconds.

Something is prohibiting it from sparking or something. What do you guys think of the EWS or the DME prohibiting it from starting until I cycle the key enough to trick it on.

THE EWS does not seem to work because the key fob doesn't work. Do these go bad? I haven't been able to get the key fob to work even with a new battery and the little light comes on .

Any more ideas electrically and not Fuel related. I am sure I have fuel delivered.
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  #25  
Old 10-15-2012, 07:30 PM
MINI+BMWtek MINI+BMWtek is offline
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rest fuel pressure should be at least 50PSI for a couple minutes what engine? you check battery?
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