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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 02-19-2011, 11:45 PM
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bcbp14 bcbp14 is offline
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What position does the key have to be in to check the abs module under the hood using the MM?
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  #27  
Old 02-20-2011, 02:58 AM
izzyinstl izzyinstl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Good for you! Thanks for letting us know.

What does the autopsy look like?
The plastic coating that covered the 2 wires inside the shell of the cable had deteriorated, hardened and crumbled to where the bare wires were touching in several places. Mainly 3 places, at the end where it connects behind the splash guard of the fender and the 2 mounting points before going into hub.
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  #28  
Old 02-20-2011, 06:44 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcbp14 View Post
What position does the key have to be in to check the abs module under the hood using the MM?
Amazing that you would ask this question when it clearly says where to put the key in this thread and in the reference post.

Read this thread again. It's there.

If it's not ... let me know (but I just looked and I see it clearly).

The reason I say it this way is that you're not the first person to ask this question ... but ... when I look at the instructions, it clearly says where to put the key ... so let me know what we can make clearer so the next person doesn't have to ask this question.

Last edited by bluebee; 02-20-2011 at 06:46 AM.
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  #29  
Old 02-20-2011, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izzyinstl View Post
bare wires were touching in several places
Interesting. Very interesting.

Would you kindly post a picture so we can benefit from that.

It would be very useful for future diagnostic purposes.
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  #30  
Old 02-20-2011, 09:01 AM
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BigCo540i BigCo540i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izzyinstl View Post
I just replaced my left rear sensor and everything back to normal. I opted to try Auto parts Warehouse and the sensor was only $26.50 (made in China) but it worked just fine!
What were your symptoms that were fixed with the new sensor?
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  #31  
Old 02-20-2011, 09:12 AM
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I have a nice meter if you need to use it BigCo. $45 an hour sound fair?
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Last edited by 540indiana; 02-20-2011 at 10:21 AM. Reason: Typo, my bad
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  #32  
Old 02-20-2011, 10:07 AM
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Exclamation

$45 an hour is a steal.
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Last edited by BigCo540i; 02-20-2011 at 10:32 AM. Reason: mis understanding-
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  #33  
Old 02-20-2011, 03:06 PM
SAVAGE39 SAVAGE39 is offline
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alright thanks ill let you know what i come up with!
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  #34  
Old 02-20-2011, 05:23 PM
izzyinstl izzyinstl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Interesting. Very interesting.

Would you kindly post a picture so we can benefit from that.

It would be very useful for future diagnostic purposes.
Sorry the old sensor went out with trash. Like I said there is a plastic coating over the two wires. That coating became brittle and crumbled, leaving bare wires touching.

I replaced the left rear(driver's side) and my speedometer, odometer are now working again. The ABS light and the light with the circle arrow both went off again.

since the sensors only cost me $26 I didnt go thru the test procedure. I just figured the left rear since everyone says that controls the speedometer. Plus I had already replaced both front last year costing me $300 each at an Indy

this time only cost me $26.50
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Last edited by izzyinstl; 02-20-2011 at 05:26 PM.
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  #35  
Old 02-20-2011, 05:28 PM
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https://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/inde...S_Control_Unit /thread. :rant:
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  #36  
Old 02-20-2011, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izzyinstl View Post
since the sensors only cost me $26 I didnt go thru the test procedure. I just figured the left rear since everyone says that controls the speedometer. Plus I had already replaced both front last year costing me $300 each at an Indy
What's amazing here is how everyone thinks differently.

I would NEVER in a million years "just replace" a wheel speed sensor without testing it first.

From what folks have said, almost never does more than one sensor go bad (at least not at the same time). But, I'm told people buy four wheel speed sensors all the time.

Wow.

For me, I weigh the effort of five minutes in the engine bay to test the sensors versus ten or fifteen minutes jacking up the car to remove the wheel and then remove the wheel speed sensor itself plus the cost to replace it and order it and tax on it, etc. ...

And, for me, the way to go is clear.

But, one thing I learn constantly is that everyone here thinks differently.

Last edited by bluebee; 02-20-2011 at 10:31 PM.
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  #37  
Old 02-21-2011, 12:53 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Quote:
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...But, one thing I learn constantly is that everyone here thinks differently.
Tru dat. And it's not just true here.
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  #38  
Old 02-21-2011, 06:25 AM
izzyinstl izzyinstl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
What's amazing here is how everyone thinks differently.

I would NEVER in a million years "just replace" a wheel speed sensor without testing it first.

From what folks have said, almost never does more than one sensor go bad (at least not at the same time). But, I'm told people buy four wheel speed sensors all the time.

Wow.

For me, I weigh the effort of five minutes in the engine bay to test the sensors versus ten or fifteen minutes jacking up the car to remove the wheel and then remove the wheel speed sensor itself plus the cost to replace it and order it and tax on it, etc. ...

And, for me, the way to go is clear.

But, one thing I learn constantly is that everyone here thinks differently.
Well since both front sensors were replaced by indy a year ago I figured that one of the rear had to be bad. From what I read, it's the drivers side that controls the speedometer. I had a local indy pull the wheel and they verified the sensor was broke in a couple places, they tried to splice the wires to fix but it didn't work. So it was a no brainer where to start.

Plus i dont have a muti-meter and after spending $600 last year on replacing the front sensors (what a rip off) I was looking for the cheapest way to get this fixed.
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  #39  
Old 02-21-2011, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izzyinstl View Post
i dont have a muti-meter
I didn't know that you didn't have a digital multimeter.

Without a DMM, then you can only guess (luckily it worked out for you).

Yesterday I tried to help someone determine if they should replace the rotors, and only belatedly they told me they didn't have a micrometer & a runout dial gauge.

Maybe it's just me, but, if we're gonna choose to DIY, then we have to buy the basic tools.

Luckily, all the basic tools are FREE ... so, I can't possibly imagine how anyone troubleshoots a vehicle without a multimeter ... but maybe that's just me.
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  #40  
Old 02-21-2011, 12:44 PM
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BigCo540i BigCo540i is offline
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I have other issues than sensors. I replaced the LR with a new one, same ABS light and speedo not working. I took the old one from the LR and put it on the RR same results. Must be something in the ABS unit.

This is ass backwards but I had to try the new sensor first. Looks like it's time to break out the DMM. ( I know I know bluebee you told me so...)
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  #41  
Old 02-21-2011, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCo540i View Post
Must be something in the ABS unit.
If it's the ABS control module, so far, we've found that a single steel power wire lifts off its gold bondpad (or the hair-thin gold signal wires intermittently touch against one another).

See Bill's ABS autopsy thread for pictures and details.
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  #42  
Old 02-23-2011, 04:57 PM
SAVAGE39 SAVAGE39 is offline
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OK... my abs is different im sorry i forgot to mention that my bmw is asc manual transmission.... i tried to run the test you metioned but couldnt find the location you have shown in your picture!!
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  #43  
Old 02-24-2011, 09:01 AM
SAVAGE39 SAVAGE39 is offline
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http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id...915753&theater thatz the way my abs module looks soo i dont know how i can do this test.. i have a manual transmission and my bimmer is asc not dsc, i got the dmm probe opened the hood and ran in to this problem lolz .. mabey i should check the sensors at the wheel im not sure please help..
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  #44  
Old 02-24-2011, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAVAGE39 View Post
thatz the way my abs module looks soo i dont know how i can do this test..
< putting my "nice" gloves on >

First off, please write in sentences. We don't want to try to help someone with a fourth-grade education. It's too much work. And we'll fail in the end anyway. I mean this sincerely. If you want help from adults, then write like an adult. We don't expect perfection; but we do expect sentences. Sentences start and stop with punctuation. Punctuation is like turn signals and brake lights; it's not for you ... it's a courtesy to us. Remember that.

Moving on ... and assuming you do have the courtesy to form full sentences, we can attempt to help you.

If you read the referenced thread (not the referenced POST but the referenced THREAD), you'll find a LOT of people have your model of vehicle. You're never the first person with this problem so stand on everyone else's shoulders ... and move the ball forward!

Personally, I am sorry to admit I can't help you much because I do not have your model; however, the question has come up time and time and time again (so just read the thread so I don't have to rehash it) ... and realize that OTHER people have already helped you by writing into that thread.

In fact, in that thread, I laboriously typed up the ENTIRE wiring schematic for your model ABS control module connections. I painstakingly provided PICTURES (galore) of your connectors.

And, I tried (time and time again) to get one of your older-model compatriots to simply annotate the connector with the pinout.

So far, nobody has posted the annotated diagrams, so I can NOT provide you with a short summary ... but the long summary is in that thread (so please read the thread if you don't want more lectures from me!).

When you're done reading that thread, please post your results HERE so that you stand on the shoulders of your compatriots and move the ball forward!




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  #45  
Old 02-24-2011, 11:00 AM
SAVAGE39 SAVAGE39 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
This is your first post. So, the others who know this, can ignore what I say below.

One of the FIRST things to check (simply because it's easy, free, and definitive) is the diode voltage (and resistance) across each of your four wheel speed sensors. It takes only ten minutes to run this test from inside your engine bay.

The test is described about two posts above & more information is here:
- E39 ABS DIY

If that test shows a problem, you have your culprit (in ten minutes!).
If that test does NOT show a problem, let us know and we can help you from there.

Here are the results you need to tell us:

DIODE VOLTAGE DROP:
  • Forward Biased Front Right Wheel Sensor = ?
  • Reverse Biased Front Right Wheel Sensor = ?
  • Forward Biased Front Left Wheel Sensor = ?
  • Reverse Biased Front Left Wheel Sensor = ?
  • Forward Biased Rear Right Wheel Sensor = ?
  • Reverse Biased Rear Right Wheel Sensor = ?
  • Forward Biased Rear Left Wheel Sensor = ?
  • Reverse Biased Rear Left Wheel Sensor = ?
Ok well thanks for your help. I will let you know what i come up with tonight!
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  #46  
Old 02-24-2011, 04:30 PM
Kelley71 Kelley71 is offline
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My entire dash went crazy when my ABS module went out. It sent my transmission into safe mode, speedo, temp gauge, gas gauge did all kinds of crazy stuff. I had it rebuilt at Module masters in Idaho for around 300 dollars.

I plugged it in and all the lights went back to normal.
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  #47  
Old 02-28-2011, 08:37 AM
SAVAGE39 SAVAGE39 is offline
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Ok BlueBee. First off i feel like an idiot from the last post so i could understand your frustration. but i guess i have learned alot in these past couple of days about the abs module and the sensors. so this is what i have come up with. i put the DMM probe on my BMW and ran all the tests you suggested. but i came up with no readings, the DMM probe did not respond. so just to make sure i put it into diode mode and still nothing. i then change the wire gauge and put new electrical tape on the ends of it. and still nothing. at first i thought the DMM probe was defective but it proved me wrong when i put it on my battery and it read 12V. i then took off the rear tires and disconected both rear sensors and tested them at the base. i did not come up with anthing! i have swicthed both rear sensors the left rear with the right rear. i will drive it today and if it does not change im going to give it another try with the DMM probe just because i really dont want to have to replace the entire moudule. so i will get back to you thanks for your help
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  #48  
Old 02-28-2011, 10:18 AM
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ttgxc ttgxc is offline
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If anyone is looking for an ABS Module, I have a brand new one for sale: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...595&highlight=
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  #49  
Old 02-28-2011, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAVAGE39 View Post
i put the DMM probe on my BMW and ran all the tests you suggested. but i came up with no readings, the DMM probe did not respond.
Good news.

Just yesterday, after a LOT of effort, we finally were able to put together the annotated picture of the pinouts to help those with the older BMWs!

I did the annotation myself, even though I don't have the same connector as you guys.

I used mostly information from rustyzipper from this thread:
- Troubles in River City, ABS? Battery?

And, information from jeffstri on this thread:
2002 E39 ASC BRAKE ABS lights on => Diagnostic Procedure & Parts Location ( 1 2 3 4 5)

Here is the resulting picture (see post #343 for details):
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  #50  
Old 02-28-2011, 10:34 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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You're not the first person (nor the last) to say they got no readings.

So, it would be helpful if we found two pins on that connector that show power and ground.

Since YOU have to do that anyway (to see why you're getting no readings), please read the posts suggested and tell ME what two pins are best for power and ground.

I would suggest you test your resistance from the ground pin to the metal of the car; and from a voltage pin to the metal of the car; and from the ground pin to the voltage pin.

If THOSE come up with no reading, then it's your technique. If they do get a reading, then it's something else.

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