Drive Cycle Reset

Have a '10 diesel that has twice failed inspection because I haven't completed the drive cycle since my service two weeks ago. Dealer gave me list of what I needed to do to reset cycle, but I didn't follow it step by step thinking another week of normal driving would do the trick. Emissions folks told me that I must either follow it step by step or take it back to the dealer. Can dealer reset the cycle or is there an easier way to do it? Also, does anyone know where I can find a list of the steps online (since I lost the ones the dealer gave me). Thanks

Huh. Tell the dealer they need to get it to pass. if they cannot they buy it back. Explain there is a "federal emissions warranty" that the car is required to pass.

MAKE SURE THEY GENERATE A WORK ORDER EACH VISIT that says "car will not pass emissions due to not ready faults"

A

Here you go:
BMW Drive Cycle

Is this only for Europe or it is a requirement for Canada and/or the US too?

Does anyone know if the diesel uses the same federal drive cycle. ??

Originally Posted by sojglenn

BMW Drive Cycle

I came here looking for the definition of the "BMW drive cycle" for the VERY best of E39 Links and I was very glad to see your reference above!

Thank you.

For the record, I'll be adding what I can find about the drive cycle to the red highlighted link below (in case you want to add detail to that thread).

- How to identify all BMW computer-specific OBDII fault codes (1) & how to better understand the key concept of the BMW "drive cycle" (1) & how to diagnose any BMW E39 engine misfire (1) or a sporadic-temperature-change cold-engine intermittent misfire (1) obtaining the pending or diagnostic trouble code (DTC) using free or freeware scans (1) [except in California or Hawaii (1) (2)] or the cheapest ODII scanner in the world (1) (2) or a better overall scanner (1) or the best diagnostic tools (1) (2) (3).

If you want to save time, find someone with an OBD-II code reader that can read readiness codes. I believe auto parts places often offer this service free. You then will know if you have managed the drive cycle and whether it will pass before going to the emissions testing place. In Illinois, you only have so many attempts to pass and then you have to show a receipt from a repair facility to even get them to test it again.I believe even some of the cheap code readers ($50-60) provide an emissions readiness status check. The code reader will also say which systems are not ready.

To do the cycle, the basic thing is to give the vehicle varied driving conditions, e.g., make sure to do some highway driving for a few miles at a steady speed, some stop and go city driving, make sure the engine gets fully-warmed up, idle for a few minutes, etc.

You can just dump it onto the dealer; however, I find it is easier to check it myself with a reader as compared going through the dealer process.

P.S. This link may provide some additional general info. Note the sections on Readiness and drive cycles:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us50326.htm

Originally Posted by Penguin

find someone with an OBD-II code reader that can read readiness codes.

That's a good point. Even the cheapest scanners on the planet (I own the $25 one from Amazon, taxed and shipped to my door) will tell you whether it's ready for a reading or not.

And, like you said, you will FAIL inspection in some states even if everything is fine but you merely fixed something and didn't drive the necessary FTP drive cycle (ask me how I know because it happened when I repaired my ABS control module).

However, my main objective is to UNDERSTAND fully the steps necessary to complete the EPA Federal Test Procedure drive cycle.

Actually, the main reason I started this quest today was simply that I was taking one for the team (and for the VERY best of E39 Links) by removing my fuel filler cap and then testing what the error message would be.
- Loose gas cap has triggered Service Engine light

I was confused, at first, that there were NO CODES thrown!

I suspected it's because I haven't done a complete "drive cycle" so in order to run a proper drive cycle, I have to understand what a drive cycle is.

For example, what's the difference between the specified 'cold idle' versus any other kind of idle? I don't know. If you know more, please append to this thread:
How to better understand the key concept of the BMW "drive cycle" (1)

BTW, I'll read your document and add it to that thread so all benefit.

Nobody has addressed the question of Diesel drive cycles versus Gas....

are they different? are they the same?