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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-04-2011, 03:40 PM
Trini23007 Trini23007 is offline
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hmm disa issue...

so most of this afternoon i've been doing some work on my 03 525i. oil change, fuel filter replacement. changed some hoses on the SAP, started some valve cleaning. so far did the icv. i had to take out the DISA to get to the icv which is a normal. Found that my disa valve is loose and isnt exactly turning when i press back on the lever, so i figured great more money going into my car.

I decided let me look at this thing, took apart the valve part of the unit. Took pin off the top which comes of very easy and some people worry it might come off and go into the enging cause all kinds of havoc, but there is actually a groove that catchs the pin when installed so no worries about it coming out. after the top pin I pull of the metal washer that keeps the arm attached to the yellow guide plastic thing that connects to the valve and turns it. i noticed after pulling the yellow plastic thing out (ypt for short) that it has a hex pattern that fits the valve but its been worn down such that its hardly catching the valve anymore. figured lemme try a few things. something to fill back up that hex grove. ended up stretching some small extra tubing i had over the YPT. I cut just enough to fill the part of the ypt that has the hex. then just trimmed around toward the tip that goes into the valve as the base seems to be broader and it gets narrower towers the tip. checked the fit and its like a brand new unit. havent installed it yet. theres no jiggle. its fairly tight and turns wonderfully when you press on the lever.

My question is any issues i should worry about after installing? Could i have used a little ducttape instead? and does anyone have any idea what i'm talking about?

I dont have a camera with me right now else i would post pix but this guy gave me the idea however i dont think what he plans to do will work:

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  #2  
Old 03-04-2011, 04:50 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Wow. You're braver than I would be. Just the possibility of that flap going into the engine would scare me into a new one if mine wasn't working right.

You may be on to something though.

But you must take a look at the threads here where the valve DID do damage to an engine before you garner the McGyver certification of honor!



- DISA VALVE FLAP BREAKS: the DIfferenzierte SAuganlage ("Differential Air Intake") valve flap breaks (1), sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) or the disa valve o-ring fails (1) (2) & where to get just the DISA valve o-ring (1) & when the DISA valve flap closes (1) (2) & an example of how this can ruin your engine (1) & how to test DISA operation (1)
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  #3  
Old 03-04-2011, 05:40 PM
uncmozo uncmozo is offline
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When that plastic pin you removed in the video breaks, like mind did, you only have the top metal pin holding the flap. The yellow pin/actuater is very brittle, at least it was on mine. $200 new DISA valve = peace of mind. Knowing that these have failed in the past and parts end up in a place you don't want parts to end up, I'd change it out. Just my opinion - nice video BTW!

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  #4  
Old 03-05-2011, 10:14 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Lots of people complain about the cost of a new DISA valve ... and ... while I fully understand the fact that the risks (substantial) may not outweight the costs (free) for just glueing the yellow cam to the black flap ... I added this thread showing the rebuild video to the bestlinks for others to know about.

- DISA VALVE FLAP BREAKS: the DIfferenzierte SAuganlage ("Differential Air Intake") valve flap breaks (1), sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) or the disa valve o-ring fails (1) (2) & where to get just the DISA valve o-ring (1) & when the DISA valve flap closes (1) (2) & an example of how this can ruin your engine (1) & how to test DISA operation (1) or rebuild your DISA valve for free (1)
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  #5  
Old 03-06-2011, 01:22 AM
Trini23007 Trini23007 is offline
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well took the car out today for heavy driving and i mean i pushed it ...now noticing i'll have to do struts and bushings soon, after catching a few cops today with my radar detector before they caught me, all seems well, no more codes no more issues with idle, hp is back, responce time way better and the disa repair seems to be handling better than its previous use.

I would be careful on any glue going in there to repair this plastic yellow piece, but in all honesty there seems to be many ways to repair this valve instead of having to dish out the bucks for a new unit. Just depends on how creative you are. A rubber tubler washer worked for me, but ducted tape will also do the trick.

more than likely anyone can find something of similar shape at their hardware store to replace the yellow plastic all together in metal or a sturdier design, same thing with the pin.
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  #6  
Old 03-06-2011, 07:18 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trini23007 View Post
A rubber tubler washer worked for me, but ducted tape will also do the trick.
Where did you 'find' the right tubular washer?
Do you have the 'size' of that tubular rubber o-ring that you used?
(We're working on the size issue over here.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trini23007 View Post
replace the yellow plastic all together in metal or a sturdier design, same thing with the pin.
Seems to me this is a wonderful idea for one of our sponsors to investigate.

They could outsource an aluminum pin and yellow eccentric.

BTW, I updated the bestlinks just now:
- DISA VALVE FLAP BREAKS: the DIfferenzierte SAuganlage ("Differential Air Intake") valve flap breaks (1), sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) or the disa valve o-ring fails (1) (2) & where to get just the DISA valve o-ring (1) & how the DISA valve operates (1) (2) (3) & an example of how a broken DISA valve can ruin your engine (1) & how to test DISA operation (1) or temporarily repair your DISA valve for free (1)
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  #7  
Old 03-06-2011, 12:13 PM
Trini23007 Trini23007 is offline
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at the time when i took it apart I pulled my box of spare parts, pieces and left over ends out of the trunk. I've always been a believer in the "you never know when this might come in handy"... I.E anything that could be used beyond its original purpose for something else lol.I think it was a 3.5mm piece of a tube that i stretched to fit over the broader part of the yellow plastic using needle nose pliers and one of those skinny small screw drivers.

I was considering a rubber band but figured the heat of the engine would just warp it and cause it to pop. ducted tape might also be an easier fix for people who dont have pieces of tube laying around.,

please excuse my pictorial, i'm lacking on skill today but it shows the common problem of the hex pattern being worn down.
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  #8  
Old 03-06-2011, 12:15 PM
Trini23007 Trini23007 is offline
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just what i came up with but i'm pretty sure there can be a better retro fit to solve the problem
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  #9  
Old 03-06-2011, 09:03 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trini23007 View Post
it shows the common problem of the hex pattern being worn down.
Oh my! I was mistaken. I "thought" that you replaced the red (sometimes green) o-ring; but you actually came up with a 'fix' for the worn yellow plastic!

That's very interesting! Very clever. Very McGyver'ish of you.

I'm worried though. Since there is no filter between the DISA and the cylinders themselves, if that rubber ever melted or broke apart and made its way into the cylinders, there might be distasteful repercussions.

I understand the risk is low ... but there _are_ cases of the OEM valve coming apart and ruining an engine ... so ... all I'm saying is keep an eye on that fix.

Ingenious nonetheless!
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  #10  
Old 03-07-2011, 10:25 AM
Trini23007 Trini23007 is offline
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I've been thinking about the heat issue. it should stand up for where is located. and for the thinner skinner piece of the yellow plastic, well all the strain is being put on the hex of it, but I am thinking of finding a small metal tube to connect from the pin to the yellow plastic part. then there would be really much less of a chance of the the valve or pin coming loose. I'll look into it but there may be some parts from some house locks that has parts useful for this. copper pieces I may have seen before that might be the right size.
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  #11  
Old 03-07-2011, 03:46 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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One of the gents over on the other fourum had the pin fall out and ended up replacing to valves and a head gasket . Thats costly.....
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  #12  
Old 03-07-2011, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
One of the gents over on the other fourum had the pin fall out and ended up replacing to valves and a head gasket . Thats costly.....
It happens over here also:
- One example of how the DISA can ruin your E39 (1)

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  #13  
Old 03-20-2011, 08:47 PM
Trini23007 Trini23007 is offline
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Well its been 2 weeks since I did the home made fix for the disa lever and so far so good. I've been pushing the car and works fine, pulled back out the disa a couple days ago. no signs of ware on the fix i did.

Ohhh what other projects await me... lol maybe something to do with cup holders
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  #14  
Old 03-21-2011, 10:51 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trini23007 View Post
maybe something to do with cup holders
- CUPHOLDERS BREAK EASILY: front and rear (nearly useless) cupholder replacement strategies (1)
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  #15  
Old 03-21-2011, 11:34 AM
Trini23007 Trini23007 is offline
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ha, that I know my friend. aleady replaced the front and swapped the storage tray in the rear for the rear cup holders a couple weeks ago. I already had a temp fix when the front arms broke a few months ago. Used some generic cup holders that hang and stuck them in under the rear passanger seats and on the sides of the shift console, but parts of them are britile. Anyone who sat in my back seat already snapped one or two pieces of the temp fixs. I ordered some that may be a nice retro fit, but will wait till they come in to post in one of the cupholder threads.

I saw a few threads about cutting into the back arm rest and have the filp out ones there or cutting holes into the top of the arm rest for the drop in types but I'm a lil iffy about slicing my baby.

heres what i got now but will be trying out something new when ever it arrives in the mail.
again excuse my pic but you get the general idea. ANDDD, i have the factory ones thats more so for looks vs use lol. but again I'll post pics of the new one in a cupholder thread when they come in
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  #16  
Old 03-21-2011, 03:21 PM
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doru doru is offline
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over on the other forum, a member posted noticeable engine response after changing the DISA valve.
I believe this is one part that should be changed between 80-100 k miles. Too many posts that point to that part alone. If everything "looks" good and the mpg goes S, maybe this is the part that started to fail. Not only rotted rubber hoses that induce vacuum leaks.

Maybe the whole rubber hoses (vacuum), CCV and DISA should be done in one shot, just like the cooling overhaul?
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  #17  
Old 04-24-2011, 09:13 AM
milorip milorip is offline
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FWIW, I tried a different approach prior to finding this thread. Maybe none of us should be trying to fix these DISAs, but mine looked in such good shape other than the inside piece that wears that I decided to go for it. Maybe the BMW engineers designed these to start rattling as a warning sign to put in a new one before they explode? I'll be checking mine regularly!

Here's what I did:
Drilled a 3/32" hole
Screwed in a 4-40 x 3/4" SS screw
Applied high temp locktight
Screwed on nut
Allowed locktight to set

If you are brave (foolish?) enough to try this, make sure the hole is drill so that the screw head and nut clear the housing to allow complete rotation.



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  #18  
Old 04-24-2011, 09:15 AM
milorip milorip is offline
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I thought I attached pictures, but they didn't take. I have them in my bimmerfest album if anyone is interested. (Never mind, I got em attached above)

Last edited by milorip; 04-24-2011 at 09:19 AM.
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  #19  
Old 04-24-2011, 01:04 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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I'm not that familiar with the parts in this unit but if you drill where you did, doesn't the screw pass through that white plastic axle piece underneath?
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:18 PM
milorip milorip is offline
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The hole goes through the flap and the pin which keeps the torsional relationship in tact with out looseness. I must admit that I am leaning towards the $200 peace of mind camp. 200$ is cheap insurance against an expensive catastrophic engine event! Especially if the new DISA lasts another 80K miles!.
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  #21  
Old 04-24-2011, 05:43 PM
franka franka is offline
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http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...&q=spring+pins
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  #22  
Old 04-24-2011, 05:50 PM
franka franka is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milorip View Post
FWIW, I tried a different approach prior to finding this thread. Maybe none of us should be trying to fix these DISAs, but mine looked in such good shape other than the inside piece that wears that I decided to go for it. Maybe the BMW engineers designed these to start rattling as a warning sign to put in a new one before they explode? I'll be checking mine regularly!

Here's what I did:
Drilled a 3/32" hole
Screwed in a 4-40 x 3/4" SS screw
Applied high temp locktight
Screwed on nut
Allowed locktight to set

If you are brave (foolish?) enough to try this, make sure the hole is drill so that the screw head and nut clear the housing to allow complete rotation.
Looks like a good solution.

But, if there is much movement, the exposed threads will eat thru the plastic quickly.

Thin brass or aluminum tubing crimped at each end could work. I have a local hardware store that has such tubing, so its available.
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Last edited by franka; 04-24-2011 at 05:52 PM.
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  #23  
Old 04-24-2011, 07:17 PM
milorip milorip is offline
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It seems unlikely that the screw will eat up much of the plastic and if it does, then the rattle will come back as the flap loosens. My main concern is anything coming loose and getting sucked into the engine. My hope is that the 1/2" of plastic the screw goes through with the locktight nut in place will be enough to keep every thing together. Time will tell...
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  #24  
Old 04-24-2011, 10:03 PM
SleekBMW SleekBMW is offline
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My DISA valve is tight, and it works fine, however, it makes an incredible amount of ticking noise. both my indy and my dealer said you need to replace that thing, when i took it off, i have no play whatsoever. So i dunno what to do.
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  #25  
Old 04-28-2011, 09:58 PM
Trini23007 Trini23007 is offline
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The ticking is probably the bulb part of the yellow plastic part and ends up at the middle of the flap, its very brittle and if it breaks its sometimes just rattles around inside the flap, or the gears on the motor arm.
I considered using a number of metal parts before the rubber, but thought about carbon build up on metal... might it cause the flap to get stuck if large amounts of carbon built up over time and hardened on the metal, and would that tiny motor and that plastic arm be nuff to break it loose in the event of that. so I stuck with a rubber solution. So far so good since i fixed that piece.

Last edited by Trini23007; 04-28-2011 at 09:59 PM.
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