Vibration diagnosis flow chart for e39

Here'a a shot at one speciic for e39..

See note A, B, E, F

Does the vibration occur only at specific speeds, straight line, no brake applied, no gas?
Yes, then does it occur at 40-50mph?
Yes, then thrust arm bushing. Also see note F
No, then does it occur at 70-80mph?
Yes, then lower control arm. Also see note F
No, then see note C

Notes:
A - Check tire pressure
B - Swap tires to see if a change.
C - Check wheel alignment
D - Maybe wheel bearing play, worn out
E - Check that lug nuts are tight
F - Sometimes a new tire is needed because it has worn unevenly

Does the vibration occur generally higher speeds, straight line, no brake, no gas?
Yes, then see note B,C

Does it vibrate only when brakes applied?
Yes, then check for loose control arm joint(s). Check brakes calipers on tight. Check if rotors warped.

Does it vibrate on a turn, no brake, no gas?
Yes, then check if it happens more on right turn, then right side is suspect, and vice versa. See note D

Does it vibrate on acceleration?
Yes, then check center support bearing and Guibo

Originally Posted by ztom

Here'a a shot at one speciic for e39

Wonderful! I've added this link to the VERY best of E39 Links already (keyword===vibration):

How does this look for starters?

- The main causes of vibration while highway driving (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5); while highway braking (1) (2) (3); and while slow speed braking on bumps (1) & TireRack vehicle vibration diagnosis chart (1) (jpg) with match mounting hints (1) & due to worn drive shaft, flex disc, center bearing, or "giunti Boschi", aka giubo - often misspelled as "guibo" (1) (2) (3) (4).

Originally Posted by ztom

Does it vibrate only when brakes applied?
Yes, then check for loose control arm joint(s). Check brakes calipers on tight. Check if rotors warped.

Talk to MatWiz.

If it vibrates violently, while braking at low speed on bumps, it's the shocks and/or struts. (See the loooooooooong reference on this above.)

Yes thanks, I agree.

Originally Posted by ztom

Here'a a shot at one speciic for e39..

See note A, B, E, F

Does the vibration occur only at specific speeds, straight line, no brake applied, no gas?
Yes, then does it occur at 40-50mph?
Yes, then thrust arm bushing. Also see note F
No, then does it occur at 70-80mph?
Yes, then lower control arm. Also see note F
No, then see note C

Notes:
A - Check tire pressure
B - Swap tires to see if a change.
C - Check wheel alignment
D - Maybe wheel bearing play, worn out
E - Check that lug nuts are tight
F - Sometimes a new tire is needed because it has worn unevenly

Does the vibration occur generally higher speeds, straight line, no brake, no gas?
Yes, then see note B,C

Does it vibrate only when brakes applied?
Yes, then check for loose control arm joint(s). Check brakes calipers on tight. Check if rotors warped.

Does it vibrate on a turn, no brake, no gas?
Yes, then check if it happens more on right turn, then right side is suspect, and vice versa. See note D

Does it vibrate on acceleration?
Yes, then check center support bearing and Guibo

My 2003 530i vibrates between 70-80 mph. In Florida speed limit is 70 so driving between 70-80 is the 'normal' range. It is very annoying to have car vibrate all the time.

The vibration seems to occur in rear, under the seat and the car as a whole. The steering wheel does not wobble or vibrate so I think the front of the car should be in good shape.

From this diagnosis it looks like the lower control arm is the culprit. Is this an easy fix? Or how much does it usually cost to have this repaired?

Originally Posted by rush_ad

My 2003 530i vibrates between 70-80 mph. In Florida speed limit is 70 so driving between 70-80 is the 'normal' range. It is very annoying to have car vibrate all the time.

Originally Posted by rush_ad

The vibration seems to occur in rear, under the seat and the car as a whole. The steering wheel does not wobble or vibrate so I think the front of the car should be in good shape.

From this diagnosis it looks like the lower control arm is the culprit. Is this an easy fix? Or how much does it usually cost to have this repaired?

Might be your rear tires. Not balanced, or bad quality rubber (uneven), or bent wheel.
Check also the rear balljoints.
If you had lower control arms - they are in the front, and the steering whell would shimmy.

Originally Posted by doru

Might be your rear tires. Not balanced, or bad quality rubber (uneven), or bent wheel.
Check also the rear balljoints.
If you had lower control arms - they are in the front, and the steering whell would shimmy.

The rear tires are brand new and therefore balanced.

I bought the car used about two weeks back. When I went to test drive the car, it used to vibrate around 65 mph. So I asked the seller if he can replace the tires. So he did. When I test drove it second time, the car was not vibrating around 65 mph. So I bought the car without driving over 70 mph.

Not it seems like I had the seller replace with tires without much help. And the problem still remains. Also, this points to that the new tires aren't bad since the old tires also had the same problem.

1) I can check for bent wheels.
2) How do I check the rear ball joints? I am a total noob and would be nice to have a pic or two.
3) Any tutorial to replace the lower control arm?

Thanks.

Lift the car up, grab the wheelsat 9 & 3 o'clock, see if you have play.
Front & rear.
If no play, sometimes the wheel was placed incorrectly.
With the car up, you should torque the lug bolts so they center the wheel on the hub. Then (car on stands), torque the bolts to proper spec (110-120 Nm). If tighter, you may experience shimmy.
To check if the wheel is true and has no bends, a tire shop can do it.
The front lower control arms are not very difficult to replace, but first do the diagnostics. Also, sometims you need a road force balance, especially if the wheel size is greater than 17".
For front & rear axle suspension parts, there are numerous threads on this and other forums. Also, a detailed procedures are on the Beisan web site. On this forum you can search using key words like "total suspension overhaul" and "CN90"
GL

For the record, so others benefit, today Doru posted his vibration-elimination success story:
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Finally got rid of the shimmy

Originally Posted by doru

It started to shimmy when accelerating steady. As soon I as I reached 65 mph - the steering wheel started the dance up until about 75 mph. Then, it subsided, but you could feel it in the steering column. Now it's like glass. No matter how fast I accelerate, you can reach the governor speed, there's nothing. Just pure driving bliss.

Originally Posted by doru

It was the front piston calipers sticking that did the shimmy. Changed the boots and the shimmy is gone. I had the shimmy around 100 - 110 Km/Hr (65-70 mph).
Also, the calipers were dragging before. The rubbers were deformed and the pistons end started to rust as well. All is good now. There are a few good DIY: CN90 DIY and Stinkpalmd DIY

So, it's not always the suspension parts (I knew, I had them changed last year with only some improvement - the 50 mph was gone, but not the 65-70 mph).

See also:
- The main causes of vibration while highway driving (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5); while highway braking (1) (2) (3) & why it's not rotor "warp" (1); and severe shuddering while slow speed braking on bumps (1) & TireRack vehicle vibration diagnosis chart (1) (jpg) with match mounting hints (1) & due to worn drive shaft, flex disc, center bearing, or "giunti Boschi", namely the giubo (pronounced sort of like jew'eebo), and sometimes unknowingly misspelled as "guibo" (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to repair the rear driveshaft seal by the differential (1) or the inner constant velocity (CV) half-drive shaft (1).

@bluebee - Now one of my favorite posters. (I've been migrating from BF.c)

MODS - Can we PLEASE sticky this thread?

For the crosslinked record, RDL posted the TIS wheel runout specifications here today:

Originally Posted by rdl

TIS specifications for rounout and balancing wheels & tires.

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