I replaced the CCV on my M54 3.0 last week. Once I got the old CCV out and opened for inspection (i.e. destroyed) I found that the valve itself was probably OK, although I can't be certain. My "for sure" problems were these.
First
The heavy power lead running from the alternator to the starter had worn a hole in the drain hose. In other words, a sizable vacuum leak through the CCV system. It appears that some work was done before I bought the car & this heavy cable was positioned so it rubbed on the hose just at the CCV connection where the abrasion wore a hole.
I was careful to route the alternator cable away from a rubbing point at the CCV connection during re-assembly. Even if the cable does flex and droop over time it will move to contact the drain hose in a location away from the joint where it won't have a hard rubbing point to abrade.
Second
The drain hose and drain in the dipstick guidetube were plugged solid. In my case, I was able to remove the drain hose from the dipstick guide tube while in place. I used a small screwdriver pushed into the slip joint & ran it all the way around the circumference to break adhesion, then pulled the hose up & off the guidetube. It was the only hose that didn't crumble when disturbed during CCV removal.
From my experience, it would have been possible to remove this drain hose and dipstick guide tube for cleaning &/or replacement without replacing the entire CCV system.
I had terrible idle quality, 10 lean & mis-fire codes & the CEL lit. Crankcase vacuum was 100 mbar vs the spec of 10 to 15. I also had a new intermittent burnt oil smell in the engine bay with a wisp of smoke off the rear bank exhaust manifold, but no obvious smoke out the tailpipe, which I found puzzling with high crankcase vacuum rather than pressure. I'm baffled by the high crankcase vacuum given the leak in the crankcase side of the CCV system although this vacuum leak does explain the idle quality, codes and CEL.
Anyway, idle is again so smooth that I have to check the tach, all the codes are gone & the burnt oil smell is no more.
Sorry for the lack of "in place" pictures. By the time I found these problems my hands were so grimmy with oil muck that I didn't dare pick up the camera.
The heavy power lead running from the alternator to the starter had worn a hole in the drain hose. ... The drain hose and drain in the dipstick guidetube were plugged solid.
Just one more tip on CCV replacement. If you are going to replace the oring on the dipstick tube, use some oring lube (my favorite is Nylog A/C oring lube) on the oring prior to trying to insert the dipstick & oring assembly into the block. It will be nearly impossible to install without cutting the oring otherwise. If you don't feel a distinct detent while pushing down, the tube is not in position.
What if anything inside the CCV itself fails? Does it simply get clogged up, and is not uncloggable with the usual solvents?
I looked at all the hoses leading out of mine and they seem fairly pliable and undamaged. Makes me wonder if they haven't already been replaced. But I'm going to check the dipstick tube next, hope I find no surprises.
BMW sells a replacement cold-weather package for the CCV + hose hardware, with insulation added. Wouldn't that be the better choice regardless of where you live?
BMW sells a replacement cold-weather package for the CCV + hose hardware, with insulation added. Wouldn't that be the better choice regardless of where you live?
If you live in a hot climate, it's not necessary. BMW "upgraded" the CCV kit with the insulated one in an attempt to avoid condensation on the pipe walls, and the forming of mayo - the mayo can get hard and can freeze. This will destroy the CCV or can lead to catastrophic engine failure. It's some sort of bad engineering aknowledgement from BMW (and these are not many).
Also, the new dipstick guide has a new design, where the internal drip "tubes" of the oil are much bigger. These bigger internal drip tubes seem to be directly related with the price BMW sells the new and improved dipstick guide....
Champaign777 posted on the "other" forum his CCV saga/replacement. At that time he mentioned that his BMW department friend told him that the new CCV cold climate retrofit is not complete without the new dipstick guide, which at that timewas around 200 bux!!! (see post)
The original dipstick guide (withe the 3 tiny holes) was p/n 11431433496
This is the pic of the new and improved dipstick guide (I use Champaign777 pjoto - I hope he does not mind). p/n was 11437565437 (photo below). The new design does not have the 3 holes, but I believe it has a big openeing where it mates with the larger lower guide.
The new dipstick guide is now listed at around 40 bux and has again a different p/n 11437531258
That does seem to be the price of this thing on RealOEM. Usually if I buy something from the dealer, their price will be very close or the same. Just searched a couple of online vendors though and it was double or more.
Does the diaphragm material get damaged or does all the gunk inside merely prevent it from performing as designed? Is it a film or other flexible membrane, or a sprung valve controlled by crankcase pressure? Amenable to washing out with a solvent (say, gasoline)?
I just flipped through my Bentley manual and couldn't find anything about maintaining or replacing this thing.
BMW designed a new dipstick which means they agree that old one is a crap
How much does it cost and why is another story but old dipstick is not in my cars anymore
Hey, Igor, since you changed your dipstick (the post you had on the other forum, and from where I stole your pic), BMW changed again the design of the dipstick it seems - now they have a different p/n than yours. The good thing is the price went down big time from the 200 bux you were quoted. Not sure what the latest change is though....
the idea was to move entire part started from Y gunk down ( see second 0-ring above first which hold outer sleeve )
Then cut inner sleeve above Y gunk and put outer sleeve back
not possibles as this inner sleeve is build into Y gunk
First: The heavy power lead running from the alternator to the starter had worn a hole in the CCV drain hose
...
Second:The drain hose and drain in the dipstick guidetube were plugged solid.
...
From my experience, it would have been possible to remove this drain hose and dipstick guide tube for cleaning &/or replacement without replacing the entire CCV system.
...
I had terrible idle quality, 10 lean & mis-fire codes & the CEL lit. Crankcase vacuum was 100 mbar vs the spec of 10 to 15.
...
I also had a new intermittent burnt oil smell in the engine bay
...
with a wisp of smoke off the rear bank exhaust manifold,
...
but no obvious smoke out the tailpipe,
Unfortunately, I did not test my vacuum readings ... but I did build a home made smoke machine which helped find the lower CCV drain rubber hose crack and then the upper ICV rubber elbow cracks.
I found the totally clogged steel CCV drain dipstick guide tube only after visual inspection ... and I came here searching for a way to specifically test for the clog w/o removing the drain tube itself.
In hindsight, two tools would have been helpful in cutting my diagnostic time down from many months to just a few days:
a) A better smoke machine
b) Vacuum tests
I was just reading a post about a "catastrophic failure" during cold weather driving... Have had so much stuff open I can't recall who it was, but it was on this forum. I am not at a really high elevation in the southern Appalachians, so it is not too cold here, and not cold for all that long. I don't take many short trips at all. (lightbulb moment, this was it... obviously you have seen it already, but for reference: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5990544&postcount=10)
Here are the only "problems" I have noticed (feedback on either is welcome and appreciated!):
-rough idle during initial cold engine startup (regardless of outside temp), but smooth when warm.
-typically get a single hard "miss" after fueling up, but I think that is the evap purge valve asking to be replaced.
I will check the DISA soon, I thought I read somewhere that it was best to replace some parts if you pulled it, but I am sure I have the links saved and can re-consult that. I planned to do the basic diagnostics on the CCV, and if I go all out and replace a few big ticket items I will plan to keep the car for quite a few more years (had been thinking about selling and getting something a bit newer), so I'd like to keep it reasonably reliable.
Thanks RDL!!!
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