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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-23-2011, 05:43 PM
ZeGerman's Avatar
ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Sticky parking brake

Damn, I hate creating my own threads, but sometimes even I need to... Anyway, this should be a simple one for you guys, but I (surprisingly) wasn't able to find any info relevant to my situation when searching.

Anyway, my e-brake is now sticking ever so slightly. In fact, you can't notice it at all except on rare occasion when moving about 1-2mph (barely moving at all). It's so quiet that you need to have the windows rolled down to notice it, and even so, I think 99.9% of drivers would never notice it with the windows down - that's how slight it is. I can make it go away by quickly pulling/releasing the e-brake quickly while moving - that seems to jar things free again so it doesn't stick. The car rolls easily with the clutch pressed in, etc. Clearly, my e-brake is sticking just a little bit.

So, I've found plenty of info on e-brake adjustment, but does anyone have any info on how to lubricate the e-brake mechanism to allow it to move more freely?

Thanks in advance!
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Last edited by ZeGerman; 03-23-2011 at 05:47 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-23-2011, 05:47 PM
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jonesin jonesin is offline
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Possibly just built up crud on the cable? Changing it out for new may not be a bad idea at this stage of life. I know though that mine was truly a PITA to remove from the brake side of the equation.
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:50 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Yeah, I'm trying to avoid that level of work if possible (naturally). It's incredibly minor at this point - barely perceptible, but it's there nonetheless. I've never had reason to look at the mechanism in the past, so I'm not very familiar with places where it could/should be oiled, etc.
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1998 BMW 328is Shooting Brake
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 03-23-2011 at 05:51 PM.
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  #4  
Old 03-23-2011, 05:52 PM
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But even sticking a little will not only wear the shoes faster, but will also increase fuel consumption no? As long as your cable end isn't siezed at the brake side, leave the sleeve in place and replace the cable is a minor thing to do. It just slides in easily.
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:55 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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That's good news that it isn't difficult to replace the cable if it isn't seized. That said, do you (or anyone else) know of specific locations that oil might help the situation? Figure I'll start out with the easiest possible solution first, y'know?
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1998 BMW 328is Shooting Brake
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 03-23-2011 at 06:52 PM.
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  #6  
Old 03-23-2011, 06:20 PM
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jonesin jonesin is offline
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Hope this is useful to you...

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf40358.htm
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2011, 02:52 PM
zachiepie zachiepie is offline
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I had mine sticking a while ago. I ended up just taking the tire off and fiddling around with the brake itself. Weird how it would just start doing this, I would think the cable. Not sure if there are any particular spots it can seize up?
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  #8  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:16 PM
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Yeah, unless anyone has any "definitely shoot some oil [insert location here]" type of info, I suppose I'll just take the wheel off and oil anything that looks like it might be the cause of the problem.
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For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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  #9  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:19 PM
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So just outa curiousity...

...how the hell did you notice that? lol
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:25 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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I have spidey-sense... No really, I do.

I know every, any, and all sounds my car makes down to levels that only bats and dolphins can hear. We had a warmer day over the weekend (so I had the window down), and as I went to select a gear to leave an intersection, I noticed that it made a barely perceptible squeak as the car began to roll on its own. I was then able to repeat it. I'm sure there are few on this planet that would have ever noticed it.
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1998 BMW 328is Shooting Brake
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 03-24-2011 at 05:28 PM.
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  #11  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
I have spidey-sense... No really, I do.

I know every, any, and all sounds my car makes down to levels that only bats and dolphins can hear. We had a warmer day over the weekend, and as I went to select a gear to leave an intersection, I noticed that it made a barely perceptible squeak as the car began to roll on its own. I was then able to repeat it.
Internesting...






freak


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  #12  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:29 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Freak = when a hobby becomes an obsession. I'd say I fall squarely into that category.
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1998 BMW 328is Shooting Brake
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:29 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Karl, that's just creepy. I can't hear work a durn, so I wait for stuff to fall off and make big noises. Seriously.
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:32 PM
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noexceptions325 noexceptions325 is offline
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sounds like crud built up at the end of the cable, I'm not sure what the inside of the rear rotors look like on an e36 but if they are the same as the e30 then i had a similar problem when i bought my car after i installed new ebrake pads.

solution: remove rear rotors and recently replaced e-brake pads, pressure wash general area of brakes, soak mechanism in liberal dousing of brake parts cleaner, insert ebrake pads.
and after all that i still had to adjust my ebrake cable up front to stop the slight chirp(not even a chirp) i was getting when i would take off
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Last edited by noexceptions325; 03-24-2011 at 05:35 PM.
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  #15  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:37 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Yeah, I will probably do something similar to that. I've never had the rotors off of my car, so lets hope the retaining bolts aren't seized...
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1998 BMW 328is Shooting Brake
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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  #16  
Old 03-24-2011, 08:10 PM
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miles_trail miles_trail is online now
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I wouldn't worry about the bolts, when the wheel bearing on my 318 turned to dust I was pulling off the rotor to see what's up. When I had the wheel off it was all covered in rust and crud too the point that I couldn't even see the little allen bolt at first and I thought "oh crap" but it turned out to not be bad at all.
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  #17  
Old 03-24-2011, 08:12 PM
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crisscross crisscross is offline
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He he he


Siezed bolts are a fun one
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  #18  
Old 03-24-2011, 08:32 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Lets just hope whoever installed them last used a dab of anti-seize...
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1998 BMW 328is Shooting Brake
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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