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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 04-08-2011, 08:40 PM
franka franka is offline
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Its the immediate help that was asked for.
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  #27  
Old 04-08-2011, 09:04 PM
Whorse Whorse is offline
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Wow I never believed in stuff like that. Too scared things get clogged up and such. But after reading those stories I'm surprised. I wonder if it would of worked on this old e30 I had, compression from the cylinder was making its way into the cooling system and I was blowing up radiators every month. I didn't know since oil and water wasn't mixing and water apparently wasn't making its way back into the cylinder. I noticed a cheapo radiator swelling up in size and got the clue that the head-gasket took a dump.
Do they make different sealers depending on the type of head-gasket leak? ie: i have an old m20 that leaks from oil the outside of the head-gasket. Its not making its way into the cooling system or the cylinders.
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  #28  
Old 04-09-2011, 04:44 AM
franka franka is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
Do they make different sealers depending on the type of head-gasket leak? ie: i have an old m20 that leaks from oil the outside of the head-gasket. Its not making its way into the cooling system or the cylinders.
I answered your questions in my post # 23. As I stated, they make 4 types of products for just blown head gaskets and cracked heads & blocks, alone. They also make multiple products for oil leaks. And other multiple products for other specific problems/items like radiators, etc.

1) Read post # 23, page 1. 2) Follow the instructions therein when you click on the link. 3) Call them if you still have questions.
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Last edited by franka; 04-09-2011 at 04:46 AM.
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  #29  
Old 04-09-2011, 04:53 AM
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ncmallard78 ncmallard78 is offline
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are you gonna drive this thing for a couple of years, or are you going to flip it? If you are going to drive it, buy the used engine and run it. you will have a cheap and reliable car. if you are going to sell it, you are better off parting the car.
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  #30  
Old 04-09-2011, 06:18 AM
franka franka is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncmallard78 View Post
are you gonna drive this thing for a couple of years, or are you going to flip it? If you are going to drive it, buy the used engine and run it. you will have a cheap and reliable car. if you are going to sell it, you are better off parting the car.
This is just my opinion. I don't think we have the required information to make economic and reliablity judgements at this point. I believe there are just too many unknowns here to be able to draw such conclusions.

Besides not knowing many factual matters we don't even know what the owner's intentions are. And they could change, for a variety of reasons, as he or this project goes forward.

There are many factors operating in this situation.
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  #31  
Old 04-09-2011, 07:24 AM
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TemporarySanity TemporarySanity is offline
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I used the Bars Leak because the engine had 250,000+ miles on it and the rest of the car wasn't worth much more than a $12 bottle of the stuff. That being said, I wouldn't rely on it in my daily driver. I would use it in a pinch but would still plan on changing the head gasket or block to be safe.
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  #32  
Old 04-09-2011, 07:51 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franka View Post
they make 4 types of products for just blown head gaskets and cracked heads & blocks, alone
Frank has a great point.

A few weeks ago, I felt badly about the fact that people were coming in (more and more) with symptoms of an overheated cooling system which damaged the engine (in a variety of ways) ... yet we didn't have a comprehensive answer for them that outlined ALL their options in one fell swoop.

Since then, I've spent probably ten or fifteen hours compiling & summarizing the suggestions from scores of sad threads into the bestlinks. For example, here are just the last two dozen ruined-engine threads that I tried to cull the available options from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24), all of which had symptoms of suspected blown head gaskets, cracked heads, warped blocks, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, and valve damage.

However, to the point of Frank's suggestion, none of those (IIRC) mentioned successful use of the stuff Frank proposes! So people are getting incomplete information. More importantly, lots of people are getting an incomplete list of their options. We need to improve on that.

The problem is getting this new information to the people who need it. Just having it in 'this' thread, won't solve that problem!

For lack of a better method, I recently opened this thread which might help the OP:
- What advice should we provide when a newbie asks for help with a blown E39 engine?

But, 'that thread' had NOTHING about this new (to me) option (which wasn't listed in the sad stories I had read).

So, I'll add Frank's suggestion to that list of options once I analyze what's at Frank's suggested link in post #23. At least, it will be there, if/when we point people to it for a list of their options.

Thanks Frank!

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Last edited by bluebee; 04-09-2011 at 08:32 AM.
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  #33  
Old 04-13-2011, 10:31 PM
Jeff3344 Jeff3344 is offline
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Post It Worked!!

Guys, the blown headgasket was confirmed by a reliable tech as I previously stated. I was very lost and at my wits end. The last post informing me that they had used the Head Gasket Repair was a last chance. I purchased the product and followed the instructions carefully and....It worked!! The car is running great! It is not pushing coolant out and the oil is clear and clean. It is not running hot and I have put almost 300miles of stop and go etc. It seems so far to be holding..Now, I know ethically I need to reveal this if I sell it, but I think I am going to keep it a year, drive it and then sell it, revealing that then that I did do this fix. I like the car and it has become a project, but they are great cars if taken care of. I know this might only be a temp solution, but it is worth a try. I am going to check back with my engine guy in a few months and gauge his desire to unload the motor with 110k on it at a reasonable price. If so, then I will do the full engine swap. The car has much appeal to me and the fact that you guys are so much help, I really feel that I can take care of anything that might come along. The next project is the LCM. I have read the blogs on it and purchased the resistors (I think that is the right term) and I am removing the LCM as we speak and I am going to have a electronics guy remove the bad resistors (solder) and go from there. Any further advice will be greatly appreciated, especially concerning my need to fix this LCM. Thanks

Jeff
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  #34  
Old 04-13-2011, 10:47 PM
Whorse Whorse is offline
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Awesome This thread made a "non believer" a believer. now im praying i will never have ti use this stuff
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  #35  
Old 04-14-2011, 04:14 AM
Jimmys 530i Jimmys 530i is offline
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Great, I hope it holds up. Engine swaps are not fun at all.
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  #36  
Old 04-14-2011, 11:33 AM
franka franka is offline
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Glad to hear you gave it a try before more difficult and expensive fixes. And that it worked as advertised, as I had heard that it would.

Please update us in a few months.
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Last edited by franka; 04-14-2011 at 11:35 AM.
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  #37  
Old 04-14-2011, 11:08 PM
elvistopic elvistopic is offline
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there was the air in the system ,,, then u blow head GASKET .....the first thing u should drain the air from the
COOLANT LINES GOOD LUCK
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  #38  
Old 04-15-2011, 07:50 AM
Jeff3344 Jeff3344 is offline
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Smile Thanks to All

Thanks, I did all of that and installed the gasket repair kit as described later in the blog. All is working fine and I now have learned so much from you guys!! It's running great and I am keeping every body part crossed that it will remain the same! Any input on repairing the LCM
module? I could use all the help that I can get!

Jeff
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  #39  
Old 04-19-2011, 08:32 PM
Jeff3344 Jeff3344 is offline
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Guys I Need Help Again!!

Guys, I am baaaaack!! I have fixed the head gasket problem (Temp as it may be) and everything has been working great!! Well I have attacked the LCM problem by going to the link that you guys gave me and ordered the parts. I followed the instructions concerning removing, ordering of parts etc. to a T. Well, I had a professional install the chips (I have 7 extra if anyone is interested) and put the LCM in following the exact instructions. No sooner did I install the unit and hooked up the battery and started the car, the vent fin on top started to get warm. Before I could get the unit unplugged, it literally started burning at the opposite side of the unit from where the chip was installed! I went over every inch of the unit making sure the clips were correctly installed on the fin and that nothing was grounded etc. The chips are the exact make and model per the instructions and links I was given. Does anyone have any ideas on what could of caused this? Secondly, does anyone know where I can get and LCM part # 8-377-874, LCM II ? I am so disheartened at this point! I detailed the car this weekend and it looks awesome! I have given her much love and yet....I just need to get over this hurdle! Any help, you guys have been wonderful!!

Jeff
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  #40  
Old 04-19-2011, 09:44 PM
Whorse Whorse is offline
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Go back to the installer of the chips, he probably did something wrong. What were your symptoms on the lcm before repair? As for a new LCM your gonna have to spend about $450 for the module and another $100 to code it to your car.

I had a fire at the LCM, after about 8 hours of heavy rain over night, water soaked my lcm and started a fire. long story but i was able to save the car.
Its a good thing you kept an eye on it.


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BMWCCA# 186796
86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
00 540is 6spd 214k (daily driver) Timing chain guides just failed. In the middle of a full rebuild instead of repair. I wonder how much longer it would of gone if i just repaired it.
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  #41  
Old 04-20-2011, 03:55 AM
Jimmys 530i Jimmys 530i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff3344 View Post
Guys, I am baaaaack!! I have fixed the head gasket problem (Temp as it may be) and everything has been working great!! Well I have attacked the LCM problem by going to the link that you guys gave me and ordered the parts. I followed the instructions concerning removing, ordering of parts etc. to a T. Well, I had a professional install the chips (I have 7 extra if anyone is interested) and put the LCM in following the exact instructions. No sooner did I install the unit and hooked up the battery and started the car, the vent fin on top started to get warm. Before I could get the unit unplugged, it literally started burning at the opposite side of the unit from where the chip was installed! I went over every inch of the unit making sure the clips were correctly installed on the fin and that nothing was grounded etc. The chips are the exact make and model per the instructions and links I was given. Does anyone have any ideas on what could of caused this? Secondly, does anyone know where I can get and LCM part # 8-377-874, LCM II ? I am so disheartened at this point! I detailed the car this weekend and it looks awesome! I have given her much love and yet....I just need to get over this hurdle! Any help, you guys have been wonderful!!

Jeff
I will check my parts car today. I should have it though.
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  #42  
Old 04-20-2011, 06:35 AM
DrewCrewOf2 DrewCrewOf2 is offline
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I would not put the Bars in this car. I am 68 years old and have been doing my own mechanic work for over 50 years. I have used Bars from time to time and only would do that to a worn out car you didn't care about too much. It works on radiators but is less reliable long term on cracks in the head... sooner or later they will return. My engine shop guy found me a head for $350 down here in LA area and machined back to spec for a total of about $600. I got 30,000 on it so far. 10 hours of labor at $100 per and gaskets and oil and coolant is about what I would expect IF the head is cracked. There is no way to know for sure until you got in your dirty little hands and have a sharp machine shop put it on a pressure deck and test it. There is little difference IMHO between pulling the head and doing a gasket job only and having to find a rebuildable head as well - add $300-$500 maybe for the head. 'Course these cars are legendary for everything else in the cooling system playing out on you so consider that for sure. I have had to replace the radiator, fan, resistor block, idlers, water pump, head, hoses - everything. See my fan/rad job below
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  #43  
Old 04-20-2011, 07:05 AM
540gurl 540gurl is offline
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Does anyone know of someone using Thermagasket in a Bimmer? I ordered this but afraid to try it now because the instructions call for cutting into a hose to flush the entire cooling system. Want to find out if anyone else has used it before I purchase the hose. Here is a link http://www.rxauto.com/
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  #44  
Old 04-20-2011, 08:24 AM
DrewCrewOf2 DrewCrewOf2 is offline
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Well, you saw my post above... the reason they want you to pre-flush the system is because there cannot be rusty water or ethylene glycol (antifreeze) in the system for the stuff to work properly. You clean and flush, put fresh water in, put in the "glue", run for a while to let the stuff seal then put antifreeze back in. Good luck!
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  #45  
Old 04-20-2011, 08:42 AM
540gurl 540gurl is offline
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I don't like the sound of that. Glue?? I may be better off just replacing the gaskets because it's obvious that the owners before me (there were only 2) didn't do anything to this car except drive it. I have already had sooo much stuff done to it and it's too late to turn back now. At least she drives and rides like a brand new car since replacing the entire front suspension. Never thought it would make that much of a difference but omg it does!!! Now if I can just find a carrier bearing that will not go bad after a month....
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  #46  
Old 04-20-2011, 09:01 AM
DrewCrewOf2 DrewCrewOf2 is offline
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I will get on my knees and BEG you not to put it in... if you promise not to tell anybody I did that!

You never said why you were considering the stop leak stuff... do you "think" or "know" you have a bad head gasket? 2 ways to be sure, one is to have a smog shop stick their probe into the radiator tank while the engine is running. If there is a leak into the combustion chamber, the smog test probe will "smell" the exhaust... the other is to use a special air pump in place of the radiator tank cap. Here is one you can but and do it yourself for $79 bucks.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...+pressure+test
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  #47  
Old 04-20-2011, 09:08 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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Mechnic in a bottle .... let me ask you if you think there is such a thing?
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  #48  
Old 04-20-2011, 09:13 AM
DrewCrewOf2 DrewCrewOf2 is offline
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We Irish Mechanics resent that!
(giggle)
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  #49  
Old 04-20-2011, 09:17 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
Under the lift arms
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Pmsl...... Omg we use to joke about that back in the day, that's just to funny .....

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"Burning 2nd is a lot like vitamin tonic. Overly harsh, tastes like crap, but somewhere in all that there's good intent......just have to learn to read between the lines, actually you have to squint really hard to see the good, but its there somewhere"
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  #50  
Old 04-20-2011, 10:43 AM
franka franka is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewCrewOf2 View Post
I would not put the Bars in this car. I am 68 years old and have been doing my own mechanic work for over 50 years. I have used Bars from time to time and only would do that to a worn out car you didn't care about too much. It works on radiators but is less reliable long term on cracks in the head... sooner or later they will return.
I understand your point. I'm in my 60s too and have done more than my share of wrenching. I'm also a degreed Engr. I too felt like you too, based on old past experiences. Back when these types of products were marginal and could cause as many problems as they might fix. Back in the (not so good) old days.

Today Bars makes very specialized products. They have 4 products for head problems alone. Plus other, multiple and specialized products for radiators only, lub systems only, etc. No more one size fits all.

The tech in these products today has no resemblance to the old stuff. Bars has been in business for many years, and they are still here today, when other similar companies have died, gone, dead, kaput.

It's important to look at the Bar's Leak site. Look at a specific product. Click on 'more info' and then click on the 'tech spec sheets' and read the specifics of when, where and how to use the product. Then you can read the experiences of others that have actually used the product.

I've heard good things about the head products, especially the HG1 with carbon fibers, even before I've read the successful experiences on this and other forums. That is why I didn't hesitate to mention it here. Especially to bring it to the I6 guys that have had head woes and can't spend big bucks to replace the head.

Fortunately I haven't had to use it. But I most definitely will if that time ever comes. I will because I believe in the rapidly changing world of doing things with new technology, that we see all around us.
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