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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 04-12-2011, 05:41 PM
EuroTrash540i EuroTrash540i is offline
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The build date is 07/00....Well today I bought the correct battery, the 2025, installed it, hit the lock button, nothing..got inside the car, tried the sync method, nothing...I really do not want to call the dealer on this one because I really don't want to buy a whole new key
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  #27  
Old 04-13-2011, 08:23 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Is this new 2025 battery fully charged? If not, it takes approx 30 hours to fully charge the key...so start using the key while driving around...then try to program it.
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #28  
Old 04-13-2011, 08:55 PM
EuroTrash540i EuroTrash540i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
Is this new 2025 battery fully charged? If not, it takes approx 30 hours to fully charge the key...so start using the key while driving around...then try to program it.
Its brand spanking new. I guess I'm gonna call a dealer and find out how much they charge because I know its different prices all over the states. Hopefully I won't have to pay an arm and a leg just to be able to lock the car as I walk away or unlock it as I'm walking to it. But, what exactly do you mean by try to use it? Do you mean try to unlock or lock the doors while its in the ignition?

Oh and on a side note, just found out today that if you have the hood popped but not fully open, and the doors locked, if you try to pop the hood, the alarm will sound. First time I've heard it since I have had the car.
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  #29  
Old 04-14-2011, 01:28 AM
525man 525man is offline
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These batteries are definitely rechargeable and if you have one of those oral B rechargeable toothbrushes, simply leave your key positioned in the charging base for a day or two and this should recharge the battery if the battery is still functional. This worked for me on my spare key which I never used for a long time. The charging base of the toothbrush is made entirely of plastic with no conductive metal and charges the toothbrush in the same way as our keys apparently get charged when in the ignition. This may be worth trying before cutting into your key.
Great DIY write-up to the OP and all others.
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  #30  
Old 04-14-2011, 08:49 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Brilliant, 525man!
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  #31  
Old 05-10-2011, 10:36 AM
Treams Treams is offline
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Talking Thanks

I just replaced the battery in my key as shown above and it worked great. I only ordered one battery and I'm now kicking myself for not ordering two.
thanks for the write up, you saved me $200 plus.
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  #32  
Old 05-25-2011, 12:42 AM
michaelvn michaelvn is offline
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Key problem

Hi there, I need some urgent help from you guys.
Can someone with high resolution photo of the key, or can open the key to read the marking on a component which is marked in red arrow in my attached picture.
I accidentally damage it while opening the key for battery replacement and apparently the remote function stops working.
Really appreciate it!
Thank you!
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  #33  
Old 08-17-2011, 05:24 PM
SabGant SabGant is offline
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Thumbs up Thanks!

I'm a girl, a proper girly girl - but my husband is a very good hobby mechanic. That said, he's not so good with electrics or electronics.

So I figured - I have a useless diamond key fob and it's going to cost me about 150 to get a new key and fob. What have I got to lose if I bust it open and have a go at the battery? So I bought a new one off ebay for a fiver. In the meantime and encouraged by a glass of wine, I started to cut the cover open with a craft knife. It was slow going, so I went to the kitchen and used a smooth carving knife. It opened easily.

The internal buttons were not working and everything else seemed in tact, so I started trying to detatch the battery from the connectors and they were firmly stuck on. I hacked and hacked. Then I noticed that the conductive thingy (copper wire spiral) was not looking very uniform, some of the copper wires were gapped. So it rubbed them with the back of my nail till they looked even. Et Voila! The internal buttons began to work. I folded the battery and connectors back together, glued the case back together and I have saved myself a small fortune.

Thanks again for the info and encouragement to give it a go
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  #34  
Old 08-17-2011, 05:26 PM
SabGant SabGant is offline
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Anyone need a new battery as I have still ordered and paid for one off ebay which I now don't need
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  #35  
Old 08-17-2011, 06:06 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Just for the record ... here are the latest set of bestlinks ...

- Diamond key functions (1) & the truth about the BMW diamond key transponder (1) and proper initializing (1) (2) and the truth about the 10-key limit to programming your own keys at home (1) & opening, charging, recoding, & battery replacement (1) of the new-style diamond key (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & converting the old-style 1996-2000 "square" key to a diamond key (1) & how to replace the rubber key pads in the old style keys (1) (2) & what to do if your key is locked inside your car (1) & a description of the various types of BMW "Remote", "Illuminated", "Spare/Wallet", & "Valet/Service" keys (1) (2).
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  #36  
Old 08-18-2011, 01:01 AM
ilhb ilhb is offline
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Warning!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
For cross reference, a DIY thread opened up today which shows how to convert the old (1996 to 2000) square key to a diamond key.
- DIY - easy way to make a brand new diamond key work in your older car (96-00)

In that DIY, you remove the rechargeable battery and replace it with a standard coin battery:
  • 3 volt Panasonic VL 2020 lithium coin cell battery (rechargeable)
  • 3 volt Walmart CR2016 (non rechargeable)
You also remove the charging coil (and reputedly a hidden transponder underneath all those wraps of wire).

If anyone has an old key they can do an autopsy on, it sure would be nice to figure out if there really is a hidden transponder underneath all those coils of copper wire!
- Is there a "transponder" underneath the copper wire in the diamond key inductive coil

WARNING!
What you get with this is that you wont be able to start your car next time your key runs out of battery.
This coil is used to get energy to the rfid that unlocks the electronic blocking system. When you plug in the key, a signal is sent to the key by the car and the key sends a signal back to the car using part of the energy contained in the signal sent by the car. This energy is collected using, correct me if I'm wrong that shame coil you are removing.

Thanks for the post.
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  #37  
Old 08-18-2011, 01:42 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilhb View Post
WARNING!
What you get with this is that you wont be able to start your car next time your key runs out of battery.
This coil is used to get energy to the rfid that unlocks the electronic blocking system. When you plug in the key, a signal is sent to the key by the car and the key sends a signal back to the car using part of the energy contained in the signal sent by the car. This energy is collected using, correct me if I'm wrong that shame coil you are removing.

Thanks for the post.
You are correct...and I've posted about this before...but it bares repeating. This is a link to a previous discussion about the induction coil being referred to incorrectly: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...74&postcount=3

That is the induction coil used to keep the rechargeable battery inside the key recharged as well as the facilitating the induction for the EWS transponder chip which is also soldered to the IC board on the new style diamond shaped key.




(see 2nd paragraph in info below)
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 08-18-2011 at 01:54 PM.
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  #38  
Old 12-02-2011, 11:46 AM
rush_ad rush_ad is offline
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All,

I tried to replace battery in my E39 key. I checked the old (original) battery and it was showing good voltage. Even then I replaced it with new one. The key remote is still not functional.

When I put the new battery in, I was able to program the key successfully. I was able to lock the car with the new battery, but was not able to unlock it. The locking mechanism worked (with new battery) for two-three times and then it stopped again.

Any idea what is happening?
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  #39  
Old 12-03-2011, 09:18 PM
michaelvn michaelvn is offline
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@Rush_ad: likely the buttons and/or print circuit is faulty. it requires some electronic skills to fix though.
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  #40  
Old 12-06-2011, 06:50 AM
rush_ad rush_ad is offline
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I am going to have to order a new key then... hard to see myself fixing electrical problems.
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  #41  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:11 PM
japprill japprill is offline
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Thank you!

I joined Bimmerfest just now to say: Thank you! I haven't tried this yet, but need to and really appreciate your taking the time to share your battery replacement experience! I'll see if I can contribute something after I've tackled it. Thanks,
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  #42  
Old 07-22-2012, 09:09 AM
Ali72 Ali72 is offline
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Mein Auto: E39/520d/2000/touring
Hello
I have a missing smd piece ( in the red mark ) on my key , i think is a resistor but i'm not sure, if someone have a key opened please read and tell me what are marked on the piece from the picture.
THX in advance.
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  #43  
Old 07-22-2012, 04:45 PM
michaelvn michaelvn is offline
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It's a coil, not resistor. 22nH for 315Mhz key.
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  #44  
Old 07-22-2012, 09:39 PM
Ali72 Ali72 is offline
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Hello

Thank you for the fast feedback, i will put the piece back and see if it's working anymore.
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  #45  
Old 07-23-2012, 10:15 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali72 View Post
I have a missing smd piece ( in the red mark ) on my key
Wow. How did that surface mount device come off the circuit board?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali72 View Post
if someone have a key opened please read and tell me what are marked on the piece from the picture
Seems to me you should snap a picture of yours and post it so others can see what yours looks like.

Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelvn View Post
Can someone with high resolution photo of the key, or can open the key to read the marking on a component which is marked in red arrow in my attached picture.
Something seems fishy here ... but I'll just move on.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-23-2012 at 10:20 PM.
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  #46  
Old 10-02-2012, 02:46 AM
DieselManiac DieselManiac is offline
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Hi,

I broke my key yesterday. When opened I cutted a resistor and cap of the PCB. I have found the cap back and will solder it in place but I lost the resistor. Does someone know what value the resistor is.

Here a picture of the place of the missing resistor.



Thanks!

Last edited by DieselManiac; 10-02-2012 at 02:58 AM.
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  #47  
Old 10-02-2012, 05:29 AM
FLE39 FLE39 is offline
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$600 at the dealer? I had a brand-new key ordered for me, it was like $175 OTD and they even programmed it for me.
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  #48  
Old 10-02-2012, 09:41 PM
scottjoh scottjoh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali72 View Post
Hello

Thank you for the fast feedback, i will put the piece back and see if it's working anymore.
If you wanna see pictures of diamond fobs with missing components I got a bunch of them on my key fob wall of shame web page www.bmwgm5.com/KF_WoS.htm
I see key fobs with components whacked off all the time.
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  #49  
Old 10-19-2012, 09:51 PM
BMC530i BMC530i is offline
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Need a advice from the experts,
I've replaced the battery in my key fob with the energizer 2025 while I'm looking for a vendor that will ship the lithium OEM panasonic battery to Hawaii.
All went well, I reeinitiliazed the key and everything works except when I lock the car with the key fob, door locks activate but there is no audible chirp from the horn when doors are locking and the turn signals are not flashing either.

My car used to chirp the horn and flash the blinkers before when the remote was working, I've tried to manually lock the car by turning the key via the door lock and same thing happens, door locks actuate and lock the car, but there is no chirp from the horn or the blink from blinkers.

Be advised that I've only replaced the battery and reinitialized on one dead key fob, the other dead key fob was not touched.
What would case my car to arm it's alarm?
Thanks!
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  #50  
Old 02-21-2013, 06:15 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Just for the record, I took the pictures & information from this thread and put them in this diagram, so that others benefit:

For the record, I just made a composite photo of the stock battery (90 offset) and the typical replacement (180 offset).


See also:
- How to replace the old-style BMW E39 square key battery (1) (2) & how to replace the rubber key pads in the old style square keys (1) (2) & where to send your bmw diamond key for repair (1) (2) & what battery to use in the diamond key (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & square key to diamond key makeover and transponder retrofit (1) (2) & how to recharge your key out of your BMW and how long a BMW key will last in the drawer before it needs that off-the-car recharging (1) & converting the old-style square key to the newer diamond shaped key (1) & the details on swapping the BMW diamond key transponder (1) & proper diamond key initializing (1) (2) & what to do if your key is locked inside your bimmer (1) & a description of the various types of BMW Remote, Illuminated, Spare/Wallet, & Valet/Service keys (1) (2) & a list of diamond key EWS, FZV, & DWA functions (1) (2) & all about the 10-key limit to programming your own keys at home (1) & a description of the ignition key ISN (individual serial number) ten-second rule (1) & what to do if you lost your only diamond key (1) or what to do if your BMW key was stolen (1)
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 02-26-2013 at 07:50 AM.
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