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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-29-2011, 05:53 PM
guaping guaping is offline
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Yet another rotors/pad question

Hi Guys (and Blue bee). I have been wanting to replace my OEM rotors (currently with Axis pads), and have been reading a lot of posts in several forums. I have decided on flat Zimmermans and Akebono euro pads. But I came upon this deal for the Memorial day holiday and it completely made me have to re-think again; it's for 4 cross-drilled Zimmermans, plus 4 Akebonos, plus 2 sensors, for $497 (after applying 15% discount) with free shipping. What do you guys think?

Here is the link: http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...no_Zimmermann_

Thanks for your inputs.
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  #2  
Old 05-29-2011, 06:41 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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If that is not much more than what you were planning to spend originally I would go for it. I have put Brembo X-drilled and Zimmerman X-drilled on before. IMHO, the Zimmermans were better than the Brembos (although it is possible the Brembos were fake). The Brembos only lasted 30K miles whereas the Zimmermans are still going strong.

If going with plain blanks, I would go with Balos instead.

Many people love Akebonos but I prefer the Axxis Metal Masters for cooler climates.

Last edited by dvsgene; 05-29-2011 at 06:42 PM.
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  #3  
Old 05-29-2011, 07:24 PM
guaping guaping is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvsgene View Post
The Brembos only lasted 30K miles whereas the Zimmermans are still going strong.
Thanks dvsgene. What kind of Zimmermans do you have if I may ask?
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  #4  
Old 05-29-2011, 07:35 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guaping View Post
Thanks dvsgene. What kind of Zimmermans do you have if I may ask?
???

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvsgene View Post
I have put Brembo X-drilled and Zimmerman X-drilled on before. I
I have Balo fronts (had Brembo cross drilled) and Zimmerman cross drilled rears now
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  #5  
Old 05-29-2011, 09:33 PM
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first540i first540i is offline
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i could get the same set for around 400 dollars. =)
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  #6  
Old 05-29-2011, 09:55 PM
guaping guaping is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by first540i View Post
i could get the same set for around 400 dollars. =)
I have been waiting for this Memorial Day Holiday to see if I can get any good deals on the rotors and pads; the FPC Groton deal is the best I can find (I searched autohausaz, eactuning, pelicanparts, bavauton zeckhausen, etc.). Do you mind telling us where I could get that set, plus 2 sensors, for $400?
Thanks.
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  #7  
Old 05-30-2011, 02:16 AM
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first540i first540i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guaping View Post
I have been waiting for this Memorial Day Holiday to see if I can get any good deals on the rotors and pads; the FPC Groton deal is the best I can find (I searched autohausaz, eactuning, pelicanparts, bavauton zeckhausen, etc.). Do you mind telling us where I could get that set, plus 2 sensors, for $400?
Thanks.
i work for a parts store and i get really good discounts auto parts.

maybe i can get around the same price or probably cheaper for you guys if you guys are in Southern California.
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  #8  
Old 05-30-2011, 05:47 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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great deal,

id suggest:
cross drilled on the front, with sport pin kit, blanks on the rear, all with 2 sets of Akebono
http://www.bavauto.com/lview.asp?img...ib500/CBUK.jpg

you dont really need rear cross drilled unless your really really hard on it...
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  #9  
Old 05-30-2011, 09:01 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guaping View Post
Hi Guys (and Blue bee). I have been wanting to replace my OEM rotors (currently with Axis pads)
See also this thread:
- Is there 'really' a difference between (standard) E39 rotors of various brands?
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  #10  
Old 05-30-2011, 12:21 PM
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BeemVerg BeemVerg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
great deal,

id suggest:
cross drilled on the front, with sport pin kit, blanks on the rear, all with 2 sets of Akebono
http://www.bavauto.com/lview.asp?img...ib500/CBUK.jpg

you dont really need rear cross drilled unless your really really hard on it...
I have read a lot of threads about cross drilled not being too effective, and in fact, the blank ones performing better. But I (or the threads) may be wrong.

I was also considering the FCP Groton Memorial Day deal that guaping saw, except that I'm thinking of the blank discs...and they don't have blank Zimmerman Coat Z's. I also wonder why they list just the rotors as "Zimmerman/Brembo", as if they don't feel there's a difference (?)
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  #11  
Old 05-30-2011, 01:09 PM
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first540i first540i is offline
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the main point of drilled rotors is for cooling right? not so much in performance?


i was wondering if anyone has ever replaced their brake pads with akebono's and the brakes started to feel really soft? i bled all the brakes and it still feels the same. i had OEM pads prior to akebono's.
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  #12  
Old 05-30-2011, 01:14 PM
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BeemVerg BeemVerg is offline
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Originally Posted by first540i View Post
the main point of drilled rotors is for cooling right? not so much in performance?
precisely! ... and for some, the look!
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  #13  
Old 05-30-2011, 06:22 PM
Jase007 Jase007 is offline
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I wouldn't recommend the caliper guide pin (brass) replacement set mentioned above. I had them on the fronts for about 15,000 miles .. and recently removed them. The way they are designed ... the guide pin is exposed to the elements and they require greasing (not a problem) to work. Unfortunately, the grease attracts all of the road dirt and the pins can bind in the brass.

I am in there pretty often as I DIY most everything on my touring and each time I checked, the pins were gummed up. Even switched caliper guide pin grease / lube with some good stuff I normally reserve for racing. Didn't help.

Replaced front calipers with re-manufactured ones from Nugeon (pelicanparts) and stayed with the OEM style rubber caliper guide pins. No noticeable difference between the brass ones and the rubber ones. Perhaps a discernible difference if one was regularly tracking their E39 .... which I don't.

Something to keep in mind when putting aftermarket drilled rotors on your cars ... OEM cars with drilled rotors (Porsche, etc...) are supplied rotors where the holes are cast into the piece and don't interfere with internal vanes / venting. Not so sure aftermarket companies do this. The reason for the holes originally was less weight and faster off-gasing of the old style pads... their budget allowed changing out rotors after nearly every race weekend / enduro. Also, OEM quality rotors or the $$$ better aftermarket suppliers selling drilled rotors have a process to chamfer the edges of each hole so that it isn't a stress riser expediting the formation of cracks.

We run Porsche 930 rotors on two track cars (front and rear axles) and they are factory drilled / cast / holed rotors. They last a long time and hold up very well but that is more a factor of only trying to stop a #2,200 lb car ... versus our 4,000+ lb cars.

Here is a good compilation of info on drilled v/ slotted v. solids.

YMMV and all that.
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Last edited by Jase007; 05-30-2011 at 06:31 PM.
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  #14  
Old 05-30-2011, 09:07 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jase007 View Post
Here is a good compilation of info on drilled v/ slotted v. solids
Nice. Thank you for supplying that.

I've added it to the bestlinks so that others can easily find it in the future.

- What E39 street use brake pads (1) and rotors (1) and suppliers (1) (2) are most often recommended & how to do a complete four wheel brake job DIY (1) (2) (3) including the parking brake drum shoes (1) (2) (3) & exactly what lube/paste to use and not use (1) & where to lube (1) and not to lube (1) & what six brake hoses to check for wear (1) & how to do a preventive brake system & caliper rebuild (1) (2) & what tools are needed for a brake job (1) (2) and supplies for doing brakes (1) & what brake specifications you must know (1) including minimum specs for the brake shoes (1) (2) taking care to measure torque accurately (1) & how to crack friction material edge codes (1) & how far you can go once the brake wear sensor trips (1) (2) (3) (4) & how long do rotors last (1) & what's the real difference between drilled, slotted, and solid rotors (1) & what's the difference between various brands of solid rotors (1) & how to clear the check brake lining warning the right way (1) (2) and how to hardwire the sensor (1) (2) & how to diagnose brake-related vibration (1) (2) (3) & the truth about rotor "warp" (1) & how to rebuild the calipers (1) & how to measure runout (1) & should you just turn the rotors (1) & how to remove stuck rusted-on brake rotors (1) & how to remove a stuck 6mm brake rotor set screw (1) & how to replace the anti-rattle spring (1) (2) & what about unsightly rust (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how to bed (1) (2) & bleed or flush (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) your brakes & what brake & clutch hydraulic fluid to use (1) and how much it will cost if you do not DIY (1) (2) (3)
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  #15  
Old 05-30-2011, 10:20 PM
guaping guaping is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeemVerg View Post
I was also considering the FCP Groton Memorial Day deal that guaping saw, except that I'm thinking of the blank discs...and they don't have blank Zimmerman Coat Z's. I also wonder why they list just the rotors as "Zimmerman/Brembo", as if they don't feel there's a difference (?)
I was actually looking for the blank coated Zimmermans, and like you was confused as to why it was listed as "Zimmerman/Brembo;"almost ordered a full set but the rear Akebono pads were not listed on their website. I was browsing for the rear pads when I actually found the package for the x-drilled Z's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jase007 View Post
Here is a good compilation of info on drilled v/ slotted v. solids.
Thanks for the link; interesting read, and confirms why I originally wanted the plain Z's; but the FCP Groton deal is really very tempting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Thanks Bluebee; I have read a lot of threads about pads and rotors on this forum in my quest to make the best informed decision; I'm actually subscribed to that particular thread.

Last edited by guaping; 05-30-2011 at 10:23 PM.
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  #16  
Old 05-30-2011, 11:31 PM
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MatWiz MatWiz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by first540i View Post
i was wondering if anyone has ever replaced their brake pads with akebono's and the brakes started to feel really soft? i bled all the brakes and it still feels the same. i had OEM pads prior to akebono's.
Nothing to bleed. Your Akebonos don't have a bite. That's why you think they are soft.

mw
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Old 05-31-2011, 02:16 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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see i did the opposite,

i chose not to lube the pin upgrade kit, and ive been running them for well over 80,000 miles on my e30 (about 5 years now) (dry)

also on my 540 for over a year now (about 24,000 miles)

despite the fact that it says recommend lube.... to each is own


and don't fall victim to the common talk here about cross drilled being not worth it, has nothing to do with look's its all mechanical machine talk..... run a set of brembo cross drills and akebono's and see how you like it for your self... the jobs eazy to do...
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Old 05-31-2011, 08:59 AM
guaping guaping is offline
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Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
and don't fall victim to the common talk here about cross drilled being not worth it, has nothing to do with look's its all mechanical machine talk..... run a set of brembo cross drills and akebono's and see how you like it for your self... the jobs eazy to do...
Just pulled the trigger on the Zimmerman x-drilled/Akebono deal this morning; I'll report my experience with this set when the time comes. Hopefully it will last for a long while; but then again, I only have 30k miles on my 8 y/o car!
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:15 AM
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:18 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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You will be happy ,

After you install them do 3, 5 mph stops and one 15 mph stop. then let them sit for 30 min ( not hard stops just regular normal application)

send from space command
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Old 05-31-2011, 01:42 PM
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BeemVerg BeemVerg is offline
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Thanks, Bluebee, for this post:

"A reference was made to a nice treatise of drilled vs slotted vs solid rotors (although this thread is only about OEM-equivalent rotors):
- Cross drilled rotor myths dissolved"

Just ordered my Zimmermann Coat Z's at AutohausAZ.com. And Akebono pads at Amazon.com (would you believe?) -direct, not through a reselling partner
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Old 05-31-2011, 01:48 PM
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... but then again, I only have 30k miles on my 8 y/o car!

WOW !!! Is this a weekend car ?
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Old 05-31-2011, 05:31 PM
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you don't need cross-drilled rotors
they look terrible after some time

Last edited by champaign777; 05-31-2011 at 05:32 PM.
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  #24  
Old 05-31-2011, 09:51 PM
guaping guaping is offline
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Thanks for the links Jason. I actually have the Axxis Ultimates right now, and I agree they have less bite than OEM, but I have been happy with the minimal dust. I guess that gives me a point of comparison against the Akebonos.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
You will be happy ,
After you install them do 3, 5 mph stops and one 15 mph stop. then let them sit for 30 min ( not hard stops just regular normal application)
Thanks for the vote

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeemVerg View Post
ordered my Zimmermann Coat Z's at AutohausAZ.com. And Akebono pads at Amazon.com (would you believe?) -direct, not through a reselling partner
So we both will have 2 separate combos to report on.

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Originally Posted by BeemVerg View Post
WOW !!! Is this a weekend car ?
It's my "usual" daily driver (I also drive a Hemi Ram); just fortunate to live less than 5 miles from my office. I do find myself taking the longer route and going on the freeway when I drive the bimmer.
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Old 06-02-2011, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MatWiz View Post
Nothing to bleed. Your Akebonos don't have a bite. That's why you think they are soft.

mw
well it get better as it settles in?
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