I recently purchased a used 2002 BMW 525i (E39) which was delivered to me with the following:
1. A standard, working, diamond-shaped key.
2. A second non-functional diamond-shaped key. (Started engine, but remote is dead.)
3. A third diamond-shaped key, key sawed off, functional remote (attached as "fob" to No. 2 above).
4. A functional valet key.
5. A functional (doors-only) plastic wallet key for lockouts.
At first, Key No. 1 did not work, but simply needed to be reinitialized. It's my primary key now.
My question is about the combination of No. 2 and No. 3.
I got the bright idea that I could open both of them, and move the electronics from the working "fob" into the non-functional remote head on Key No. 2.
Result: The remote works perfectly, unlocking the doors, opening the trunk, and locking the car. The key now will not turn over the engine, however. It inserts into the ignition switch, the switch turns, the seats, mirrors, etc. return to the position programmed for the key, but when fully turned, the engine does nothing.
Keep in mind, the key worked when the other "guts" were in it (though the remote did not), and the other key continues to work fine.
I tried re-initializing both keys, beginning with No. 1. I also tried holding the old "guts" up close to the ignition switch, in case there is a transponder present, or something, necessary to allow the key to function (realizing that if this is the case, I still may not have been able to get it into an appropriate position).
I am afraid to attempt to re-initialize too much, or beginning with No. 2, for fear of causing the car to shut out my good key with remote due to excessive tampering or some other SNAFU.
Though it is not absolutely necessary (especially to the tune of a couple of hundred bucks for a stealership replacement) to have two keys, seems to me that I have enough pieces-parts to build one, if I can piece them together correctly.
Anybody have any suggestions?
1. A standard, working, diamond-shaped key.
2. A second non-functional diamond-shaped key. (Started engine, but remote is dead.)
3. A third diamond-shaped key, key sawed off, functional remote (attached as "fob" to No. 2 above).
4. A functional valet key.
5. A functional (doors-only) plastic wallet key for lockouts.
At first, Key No. 1 did not work, but simply needed to be reinitialized. It's my primary key now.
My question is about the combination of No. 2 and No. 3.
I got the bright idea that I could open both of them, and move the electronics from the working "fob" into the non-functional remote head on Key No. 2.
Result: The remote works perfectly, unlocking the doors, opening the trunk, and locking the car. The key now will not turn over the engine, however. It inserts into the ignition switch, the switch turns, the seats, mirrors, etc. return to the position programmed for the key, but when fully turned, the engine does nothing.
Keep in mind, the key worked when the other "guts" were in it (though the remote did not), and the other key continues to work fine.
I tried re-initializing both keys, beginning with No. 1. I also tried holding the old "guts" up close to the ignition switch, in case there is a transponder present, or something, necessary to allow the key to function (realizing that if this is the case, I still may not have been able to get it into an appropriate position).
I am afraid to attempt to re-initialize too much, or beginning with No. 2, for fear of causing the car to shut out my good key with remote due to excessive tampering or some other SNAFU.
Though it is not absolutely necessary (especially to the tune of a couple of hundred bucks for a stealership replacement) to have two keys, seems to me that I have enough pieces-parts to build one, if I can piece them together correctly.
Anybody have any suggestions?