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E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010)
The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 05-19-2011, 07:39 PM
the6dude the6dude is online now
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Alternator replacement???

Hey guys has anyone attempted an alternator installation?

I have searched the DIY thread and didn't see anything close to a DIY. I was wondering how difficult it is to do it yourself and if anyone has done it or has any advice.

Any input will be greatly appreciated!
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  #2  
Old 05-19-2011, 08:09 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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If you removing the radiator cooling fan, it will give you access to the alternator. I think you need to remove the serpitine belt, 2 bolts on alternator, 12v wire on alternator, & one plug off of the alternator. You then have to snake the alternator out from the bracket, then bring it out the top. Around 2 hours if you are handy.

Don't forget to remove the battery wires!

BMW TIS - 12 31 020 Removing and installing or replacing alternator (N62, N62TU)



12 31 020

Removing and installing or replacing alternator (N62, N62TU)





Necessary preliminary tasks:
· Switch off ignition
· Follow instructions for disconnecting and connecting battery
· Disconnect battery negative lead and cover
· Remove fan cowl with electric fan
· Remove alternator drive belt





Important!
Risk of damage!
Cover radiator.





Remove cover ***9312; and release screw underneath.
Remove deflecting element ***9313;.





Unfasten screws.
Pull alternator ***9312; forwards until connections are accessible.





Unlock plug (1) and remove.
Remove cover ***9313; and release nut underneath.
Disconnect battery positive lead from alternator.






No posts yet.
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  #3  
Old 05-20-2011, 08:23 AM
the6dude the6dude is online now
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Seems like it may be pretty straight forward. Are there any other things I should think about relpacing while I'm in there? Maybe a new belt or a alternator bracket gasket? Also I'm thinking the battery should be replaced as well? I have a 04 and I think it still has the original battery. The indicator is black (not fully charged)?
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  #4  
Old 05-20-2011, 08:46 AM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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Wow, you still have the original battery in an '04? That must be a record.

I would do the battery and belts while you are in there.

Here are the instructions with a few pics.
Alternative instructions for an older version of the alternator.

If the belt tensioning pulley looks iffy I would replace it too but it looks like there may be 2 of them, one $50 and one $100. They tend to start squeaking when they get old.
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Last edited by Yorgi; 05-20-2011 at 08:48 AM. Reason: fix URL
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  #5  
Old 05-20-2011, 12:04 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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To get to the alternator gasket. You will have to jack up the motor, & remove the motor mount. Then you can get to all of the alternator bracket bolts. The 3 motor mount bolts are a torx male head. The one in the front will require a wrench to get off. I found that a Gearwrench 3/8" wrench will work. I could not find any torx wrench's in town. It is around a 6 to 8 hour job.
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  #6  
Old 05-20-2011, 05:07 PM
the6dude the6dude is online now
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Thanks HerbP and Yorgi! I think I'll pass on the bracket gasket though unless it's leaking. I'll try to take a few photos and put together a quick DIY to help others. By the way, has anyone tried a auto zone or advanced auto battery for the 6? Got a $50 off coupon
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  #7  
Old 05-20-2011, 06:18 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Others have used generic batteries, but I am not sure of the results. You will have to have the battery registered with the car, so it will charge properly. You might want to check around with some Indy's for suggestions on batteries they have installed.


I see that you are not far from me. I have DIS & Inpa running on a Laptop. I am down is Augusta! Let me know if I could help out!
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  #8  
Old 05-20-2011, 07:57 PM
the6dude the6dude is online now
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I may take you up on that after this alternator install! I've heard a lot about DIS & Inpa. Powerful programs, I'd like to learn more about them. Do you do diagnostics? error codes? what do you normally use them for?
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  #9  
Old 05-21-2011, 04:38 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the6dude View Post
I may take you up on that after this alternator install! I've heard a lot about DIS & Inpa. Powerful programs, I'd like to learn more about them. Do you do diagnostics? error codes? what do you normally use them for?
DIS can basically do anything that BMW tech can do. Using the software, is touch & go. There are no instructions that come with the software. You would have to see it to understand how it works!
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  #10  
Old 06-14-2011, 06:29 PM
the6dude the6dude is online now
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OK guys, I know it has been a while but I got my alternator today and started the job. I'll do my best to take good pics and write up a decent DIY. Looks like it may be a 4.5 hr job based on what I got accomplished today.
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  #11  
Old 02-14-2014, 01:37 PM
cessna823 cessna823 is offline
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2006 BMW 750Li Alternator Removal:


Alternator Removes out of the top of Vehicle.

Note: I removed the lower and upper radiator hoses and small Coolant Hoses From Water Pump Housing. I pull the release springs and then using little force with Crow Foot and my hand pull away from water pump just to get the hose to move .0003 of inch then spray lubrication oil and then work hose in and out lubricating as needed. I use White Lithium Grease upon reinstallation of All Hoses. ..




In Right Side - Trunk Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable

Jack up car in under engine

Use jack stands to support

Remove lower plastic skid plate

Drain Radiator Right Side Lower is the Drain plug…Unscrew then loosen Radiator Cap.

Look Left side Lower / Radiator you see the transmission cooler housing look at bottom you see a plastic release with a 90’ degree handle, pull down gently till stops, this unlock the inlet port of cooler housing.

Take note: use a crow foot and gently work the Transmission cooler housing loose off the radiator inlet port, there is O –ring that seal the port to the cooler housing, Once loose the cooler housing hangs on right and left side hanger, Wiggle off hangers and allow cooler to drop and hold with buggie cords.

Remove Jack Stand / Lower Vehicle


Left side / drivers side Remove the Air Filter Housing, 2 Screws hold housing to support

Remove the Top Engine Cover , 4 – 10 mm bolts

Remove 10 -Torex Bolts Across Center Cover then remove cover from over Radiator.

Right Side / passenger side unplug single Radiator Electric Cooling Fan Connector

Remove 4 Torex Screws from top plastic radiator support, 2 Torex screws on each side L/R Note may have to wiggle A/C pressure lines to gain access to Right Side T-screws.

Left Top Cover with Cooler Assembly together and rotate to top of motor

Gently wiggle Radiator Cooling Fan Assembly Up and remove.


With Upper / Lower Radiator Hose Remove from Radiator Gently wiggle Radiator Up And Away from Vehicle.

Loosen 12volt Battery wire from hold down clamps and the Regulator Sending wires from the Hold clamps On Left Front Valve Cover.

Using 16mm Socket Loosen 2 Alternator bolts and using crow foot wiggle Alternator away form engine and forward


Remove single Regulator wire plug and 12 volt Single Battery Wire, Now Remove Alternator out of the vehicle.


Reverse Procedure To Install -------------------------------
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  #12  
Old 08-06-2015, 11:38 PM
lajih lajih is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
If you removing the radiator cooling fan, it will give you access to the alternator. I think you need to remove the serpitine belt, 2 bolts on alternator, 12v wire on alternator, & one plug off of the alternator. You then have to snake the alternator out from the bracket, then bring it out the top. Around 2 hours if you are handy.

Don't forget to remove the battery wires!

BMW TIS - 12 31 020 Removing and installing or replacing alternator (N62, N62TU)



12 31 020

Removing and installing or replacing alternator (N62, N62TU)





Necessary preliminary tasks:
· Switch off ignition
· Follow instructions for disconnecting and connecting battery
· Disconnect battery negative lead and cover
· Remove fan cowl with electric fan
· Remove alternator drive belt





Important!
Risk of damage!
Cover radiator.





Remove cover ***9312; and release screw underneath.
Remove deflecting element ***9313;.





Unfasten screws.
Pull alternator ***9312; forwards until connections are accessible.





Unlock plug (1) and remove.
Remove cover ***9313; and release nut underneath.
Disconnect battery positive lead from alternator.






No posts yet.
Hello Yorgi,

I have a 2005 645ci and trying to do valve gaskets, thus need to remove alternator to free the wire in the back. I also have the TIS that you refer to. Removed fan, removed belt, removed two screws on the alternator, and removed the alternator attached deflective element (as TIS refers to it). The alternator moves a lot, I can move it so that I can even see the hole that the lower alternator bolt screwed to, but alternator is not coming out. No other connectors in front to disconnect. What am I missing? My understanding is that the battery and wire connections are in the back.

Thanks in advance.

Lajih.
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  #13  
Old 08-07-2015, 12:18 PM
lajih lajih is offline
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Thank you for the reply. I wonder if 645 and I think you had/have a 650 may be a bit different. The TIS says move alternator forward to remove the connectors. I have removed the fan, the serpentine belt, two bolts and the deflective element. There are no wire connections visible from front or side. They are in the back and not accessible unless alternator moves forward/out toward the radiator. You wrote:

I think you need to remove the serpitine belt, 2 bolts on alternator, 12v wire on alternator, & one plug off of the alternator. You then have to snake the alternator out from the bracket, then bring it out the top.

I cant do "12v wire on alternator, & one plug off of the alternator" until alternator moves out. Am I missing something? Also the term "snake the alternator", does it mean I have to move it a certain way? I am just trying to pull it straight out toward radiator. What a PITA.

Thanks for being patient with a novice!
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  #14  
Old 08-07-2015, 06:42 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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If you remove the motor mount nut on the driver side, you can raise the motor up some, & get a little extra room to work the alternator out. It is a very tight fit to get in & out of the bracket. Once the alternator is out of the bracket, you will have access to the 2 wires. After you install the alternator back in the bracket, let the motor back down in place, & put the nut back on. You can place a floor jack under the oil pan with a small block of wood, but only raise it around 3 inches, or when it hits the top of the body.
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  #15  
Old 08-08-2015, 06:55 PM
lajih lajih is offline
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Thank you. It makes sense. I hope to find a BMW mechanic to help me finish this. I am quite stuck since I don't know where drivers side motor mount is.

Thanks again. I think this is more than I can chew! It is really crowded there.
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  #16  
Old 08-08-2015, 07:29 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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If you look down between the air box & power steering reservoir, there is a nut down on the frame rail. 15mm I think? The alternator will come out without raising the motor, it is just a tight fit. You could spray some WD40 or Silicone spray on the alternator bracket to help work it loose. You will need a flat pry bar or big headed screw driver to help work it out. The bad news it is sometimes harder to put back in!
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  #17  
Old 08-11-2015, 02:35 PM
lajih lajih is offline
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The alternator is loose. After removing two screws from front, it moves around side to side about one inch. It is not sliding out. There is lots of space in front toward radiator for it to slide out, but something in the back keeps it from coming out. I think connector in the back have to be detached for it to come out and I can't reach back there to loosen the battery screw to disconnect it or disconnect the wire coming from ECU box. They are both in the back and I can't get there. I thought you meant if I raise the engine 3 inches, the side cavity will get bigger so that I can reach in there and disconnect those two. Tomorrow I will post pictures of what I am talking about, maybe you can help me figure it out.

Also you said the the engine mount is between air box and power steering reservoir. My air box is on the driver side and power steering reservoir is on the passenger side next to the coolant reservoir. I will post a picture of what I think is the engine mount as well and if you can please tell me if that is it. I am too far along to give up with all new parts sitting in my garage!
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  #18  
Old 08-11-2015, 04:14 PM
H F H F is online now
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You have to clear the alternator from the alternator bracket at the lower bolt holes . It's a really snug fit . You have to wiggle it and pry it towards the right . Once you clear the bracket it will pull straight out . Then you can get to the cable and disconnect it . Also there is a metal bracket above the alternator that the power cable clips on to,, the two lower timing cover bolts hold it in place .... I took it out and made removing the alternator alittle bit easier .

I didn't raise the engine , but the xtra couple inches raising the engine should help .
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Old 08-11-2015, 07:43 PM
the6dude the6dude is online now
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I did this job a year or so ago. Here are a few pics. I hope this helps.
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Old 08-11-2015, 07:51 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lajih View Post
The alternator is loose. After removing two screws from front, it moves around side to side about one inch. It is not sliding out. There is lots of space in front toward radiator for it to slide out, but something in the back keeps it from coming out. I think connector in the back have to be detached for it to come out and I can't reach back there to loosen the battery screw to disconnect it or disconnect the wire coming from ECU box. They are both in the back and I can't get there. I thought you meant if I raise the engine 3 inches, the side cavity will get bigger so that I can reach in there and disconnect those two. Tomorrow I will post pictures of what I am talking about, maybe you can help me figure it out.

Also you said the the engine mount is between air box and power steering reservoir. My air box is on the driver side and power steering reservoir is on the passenger side next to the coolant reservoir. I will post a picture of what I think is the engine mount as well and if you can please tell me if that is it. I am too far along to give up with all new parts sitting in my garage!
Sorry, I was thing about my 750. If you look straight down the back left hand corner of the air box, you can see the nut for the motor mount. It looks to be a 14 mm nut. You will probably need to remove the air box to get to the nut, & possibly get a better view of the alternator. The alternator will come out, with some patience.
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  #21  
Old 08-12-2015, 11:02 AM
lajih lajih is offline
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Thank you all for your response. I guess I have to go back and play with the loose alternator to clear the bracket. I went underneath the car too and can't see what could be holding it from coming out. I will remove the clip to see if that helps. Last thing I need is to clear the bracket and have the clip prevent it to come out. I keep un-clipping the wire, but as I wiggle alternator, the wire snaps back into the clip!?!?!

Since the6dude has the identical car, I am hopeful that if I keep pushing the alternator to right, eventually it will slide out and then I can disconnect the wires from back. I expected the hard work come when replacing valve gaskets (not this!).

I added two pictures. Is the first picture showing the motor mount to be removed if I decide to raise engine and do the alternator bracket seal? If not, can you send me a picture of the engine mount to remove while supporting the engine from below or above with an engine hoist?

Thanks in advance.
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  #22  
Old 08-12-2015, 12:57 PM
H F H F is online now
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Take a look at the first pic . Where the red arrow is , is where the bottom bolt goes thru and what's stopping it from pulling out . keep a good eye on it and when the alternator clears that , it will come out ..

Also some pics of the bracket that will help if you decide to go for it . The second and third pic is with motor mount and the motor mount removed . Forth pic with the bracket removed ..
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  #23  
Old 08-12-2015, 04:53 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lajih View Post
Thank you all for your response. I guess I have to go back and play with the loose alternator to clear the bracket. I went underneath the car too and can't see what could be holding it from coming out. I will remove the clip to see if that helps. Last thing I need is to clear the bracket and have the clip prevent it to come out. I keep un-clipping the wire, but as I wiggle alternator, the wire snaps back into the clip!?!?!

Since the6dude has the identical car, I am hopeful that if I keep pushing the alternator to right, eventually it will slide out and then I can disconnect the wires from back. I expected the hard work come when replacing valve gaskets (not this!).

I added two pictures. Is the first picture showing the motor mount to be removed if I decide to raise engine and do the alternator bracket seal? If not, can you send me a picture of the engine mount to remove while supporting the engine from below or above with an engine hoist?

Thanks in advance.

The 1st pic is the correct pic for the motor mount nut. If you are having this much trouble getting the alternator out, I do not suggest trying to do the valve cover gasket & alternator o-ring. Those 2 jobs can easily take 8 hours each on a good day.
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  #24  
Old 08-12-2015, 07:50 PM
the6dude the6dude is online now
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+1
Replacing the alternator bracket o-ring was a PITA!
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2015, 02:54 PM
lajih lajih is offline
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+1 for me too! Talking to a shop, maybe just tow it there.

Thanks guys. Maybe I stick to oil change and brakes only!
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