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7 Series DIY
Do It Yourself forum dedicated for 7 Series BMW Owners |
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#1
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DIY Pictures - Painting interior trim (peeling /scratches)
Hey all so today I decided to save myself 1036$ and renew my pealing off/ scratched trim by simply repainting it it took me 10 hrs with detailing the car inside and out
It's very easy but time taking process saves u a lot of $ plus like 7/11 said it's not worth buying new trim as it's gonna start pealing again pretty soon It turned out to be way better then I expected Here are some b4 pictures ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() So if u have a bit of free time and looking for the project here is what u simply need 1. Any kind of paint thinner ![]() 2. 2-3 cans of any type paint ![]() 3. primer ![]() 4 some send paper ( grit depends on how deep ur scratches are) couple towels and masking tape
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#2
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Soooo
1st u need to remove trim pieces that u would like to paint ( don't think explanation on how to is required) 2nd need to remove old paint( or what ever u wanna call it) I applied some pain thinner on the trim and simply stared to rub/ pealing off old paint with my thumb. ( don't try to send it. It will take forever even with the drill) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Here is old paint free trim ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#3
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rd send trim to get rid of all scratches and imperfections
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 4th I sprayed with the primer each piece ( sending with fine grit send paper is optional I did it to make surface smooth and free of imperfections) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 5th now u can paint it Make sure area and surface of the painted piece is free of dust and oils. Carefully read all the instructions on spray can primer can and paint thinner. My interior is black I used flat black paint. Turned out to be a bit darker but it looks brand new and now car inside is perfect. Very happy with the result ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() After u painted let it dry after that reinstall pieces on the car same way u took them off
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#4
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Here are some pictures how it looks on it's place
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I'm sorry about pics aren't being the best quality I had to use my phone as I forgot my camera was at my gf's after we came back from Mexico last week. I really hope this helps somebody
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#5
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Quote:
- So you used Paint Thinner. Looks like it worked well. I was steered to Lacquer Thinner and felt it would be too harsh, and it was. Bubbled the rubberized coating up like aircraft paint thinner on paint, but it softened up the plastic too much - I just bought Fusion Paint - Satin River Rock (2423) for my Grey interior. I have not sprayed it yet, but will probably switch for Fusion Satin Pewter Grey (2439) Bought the river rock at Wallyworld... - I usually prime anything I paint, and use appropriate primer. Am considering the following: -- Pretty sure Fusion directions say not to prime on the can, and just checked their website: "When working with plastic For old plastic, use an ammonia-based cleaner and wipe down to clean surface. If the plastic is new, wipe down with paint thinner for best results. Lightly sand glossy surface if previously painted and remove dust with a tack cloth. When dry, apply KrylonŽ Fusion for Plastic according to the directions on the can." -- Was considering using Bulldog primer as I have used this on rocker moldings and mudflap before painting with base/clearcoat -- What grit paper did you end with? 330, 400? finer? Had tried to polish up one of mine by using finer grit steel wool, came close, but in the end, just would not cut it. Figured painting was the way to go and at a few bucks, worth the try vs spending a grand on it... |
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#6
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Curious to see how your primer/paint holds up/sticks in a few weeks. By the time I get to mine, will be about a month with what I have on my plate right now... |
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