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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-30-2011, 07:42 PM
lisamikechicago lisamikechicago is offline
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Mein Auto: 525i
Rotor locator screw

Gents -

Screw was seized, got warped, used extractor but only the head came out. Drilled ot the rest but left a hole larger than the replacement screw I had bought expecting this issue. The screw really was one with the hole, I doubt even a competent mechanic could have saved...well o.k., maybe. Anyway, any issues running without that screw? I reassembled the caliper assembly to the rotor carefully using the lug bolts as temporary stationers, then depressed the brake, removed the lug bolts and reinserted them with the tire. I test drove the car for a while then took it on a 50 mile mixed highway city street jaunt with no noticeable issues - just trying to see if I need a new hub assembly(assuming that is the only permeant fix) now or can wait. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 06-30-2011, 07:56 PM
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bricas45 bricas45 is offline
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You will be fine just makes it more difficult to put wheel back on!
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2001 540i - Orient Blue

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  #3  
Old 07-01-2011, 01:02 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lisamikechicago View Post
Screw was seized
Dunno if this, from the bestlinks, would have helped:
- How to remove a stuck 6mm brake rotor set screw (1)

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  #4  
Old 07-01-2011, 03:45 AM
uncmozo uncmozo is offline
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It should be noted that the pictures taken are from a Honda. There is a difference between the Honda screw and the BMW screw. Honda uses a flat head cap screw, BMW uses a low head cap screw. FHCS always grab tighter than regular screws, and are always harder to remove. This is because of the surface tension of the 'V' of the flat head grabbing the mating surface of the hole. Anyway, a little WD40 never hurt.

Jerry
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  #5  
Old 07-01-2011, 04:05 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Lisamike, if you are really concerned about the screw it would probably be easier to just drill a new hole in the rotor hat and hub and then tap the hub hole.
Use a bigger drill bit to make a V in the hat for the head of the screw.
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:27 AM
lisamikechicago lisamikechicago is offline
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Thanks for the replies guys. All I can say is that it was an absolute nightmare trying to extract that screw - the head and a few threads did eventualy come out with the use of an extractor but the balance of the bolt just seemed welded to the hub assembly. I did infact spray liquid wrench 30 minutes prior to even attempting to remove the screw the first time (before the head got stripped) and it wouldn't budge then. The car has 120k on it so I think what I will do as long as there is no danger (and there doesn't seem to be from at leasst one of the posts) is keep the rotor on there without the screw and when I get to a suspension overhaul, I will also just replace the wheel bearing/hub assembly.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:24 AM
tomjrau tomjrau is offline
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The husky impact driver I got from home depot for around $22 was invaluable for getting these rotor retaining screws out of a friends Mazda 6. You hit the end of the driver and it rotates at the other end like a ratchet. Good for over 200 ftlbs torque. Much better than having to drill out the screw like I had to for the first screw.
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