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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-15-2011, 07:47 PM
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jbonly21 jbonly21 is offline
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Engine head

Is it worth trying to rebuild your crack engine head , or should I just pay $800 for a another one??????

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  #2  
Old 07-15-2011, 08:32 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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I think $800 is pretty reasonable for a head if you can be confident that it's in good condition;
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2011, 10:12 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Originally Posted by jbonly21 View Post
Is it worth trying to rebuild your crack engine head , or should I just pay $800 for a another one?
Did the engine overheat?
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  #4  
Old 07-15-2011, 10:46 PM
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Yep
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  #5  
Old 07-16-2011, 02:21 AM
Anderias86 Anderias86 is offline
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did you take the engine apart and verified the head is cracked, its fixable if there is a machine shop by you also its cheaper, update us with what you get thanks
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  #6  
Old 07-16-2011, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Anderias86 View Post
its fixable if ...
A while back, people were coming into Bimmerfest once a week with blown engines due to overheating ... so ...

I read all the overheating threads I could find to come up with this set of references to help people like you.

Read these and then add your input so that we can help the next person after you. Learn from and add value to these threads where you can by asking related questions:

- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) & how to test an engine for blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & a well researched reusable response to a particular user with a blown engine (1) & what questions to ask when severe heating-related damage is initially suspected (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what E39 engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & why the E39 engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & real-world results from people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28).
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  #7  
Old 07-16-2011, 11:57 AM
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did you take the engine apart and verified the head is cracked, its fixable if there is a machine shop by you also its cheaper, update us with what you get thanks
Haven't taken the head apart, I wanted to know my options before I did, I also need a couple more weeks to have the money.

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  #8  
Old 07-16-2011, 06:21 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Try a can of Bars Leaks first, at a cost of about $8.00, I think. Search the forum for a couple of threads on this.
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  #9  
Old 07-16-2011, 07:06 PM
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its fixable if there is a machine shop by you also its cheaper, thanks[/QUOTE]

has anyone ever had this done, and what was the out come?
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  #10  
Old 07-16-2011, 07:08 PM
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Try a can of Bars Leaks first, at a cost of about $8.00, I think. Search the forum for a couple of threads on this.
Try it already,didn't work.
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  #11  
Old 07-16-2011, 07:14 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Ah, too bad. It's sweet when it works.
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  #12  
Old 07-16-2011, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jbonly21 View Post
has anyone ever had this done, and what was the out come?
People have welded it. Successfully.

Look at the referenced threads for the details and contact information.
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  #13  
Old 07-18-2011, 03:25 PM
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So I figure why saving for my repair why not give this a try, what's the worse that could happen ?

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  #14  
Old 07-18-2011, 03:33 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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I thought you said you tried this already, and it didn't work.
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  #15  
Old 07-18-2011, 04:42 PM
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I try the k&w, it didn't work, and back then the car had the original water pump and fan clutch, I replace those already, I am hoping that will make a difference.

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  #16  
Old 07-18-2011, 04:56 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Okay, let us know how it turns out. Some people have had some amazing success with the Bars Leaks
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  #17  
Old 07-18-2011, 06:01 PM
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Maybe I am over doing it, been driving around in this Cal sun for about 4 hours with the bar stay in the engine. Haven't over heated, about to drain it and let it sit over night, wish me luck.

Just paid $ 27 for bmw coolant at the dealer, is that what they go for?




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  #18  
Old 07-19-2011, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jbonly21 View Post
Just paid $ 27 for bmw coolant at the dealer, is that what they go for?
- Coolant, for engine, automatic transmission, power steering, and AC evaporator cooling (1)
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  #19  
Old 07-20-2011, 02:21 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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mechanic in a can will work for a few hours to get you home... But i wouldnt add that..

It will bust up your heating and cooling system..

Is it leaking fluid? Bimmers are strong i bet you can run it for a long while still with a cracked head
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