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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-16-2011, 08:13 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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What E39 parts are most recommended to buy OEM (dealer or sponsor)?

Today, while reading the umpteenth CPS thread, I got to wondering WHAT is the list of E39 parts that, from experience, we should buy OEM only (either from sponsors or from the Stealer)?
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cleaning the Camshaft Position Sensor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
They all fail sooner or later....save yourself the headache, and just get a new one (and don`t buy *anything* other than OEM, or you`ll be buying ANOTHER one in short order)
What is the list of parts that, from experience, we should only buy OEM?
  • Camshaft Position Sensor
  • Wheel Speed Sensor
  • FSU
  • ? what else ?
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  #2  
Old 08-17-2011, 07:02 AM
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Tema Tema is offline
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oem rotors seem to be preferred over other brands. bumpers. wheels. rubber gaskets.
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Last edited by Tema; 08-17-2011 at 11:49 AM.
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  #3  
Old 08-17-2011, 07:10 AM
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bmw_n00b13 bmw_n00b13 is offline
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Sensors, electronics in general. Generally other then that it should be the OE supplier rather than aftermarket, or a BMW supplier in general (i.e. Hengst makes 540 filters but Mann makes 528; it doesn't matter as long as you get one of the two).
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  #4  
Old 08-17-2011, 08:24 AM
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DHoang DHoang is offline
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OEM front strut bearings. They're molded differently than the OE Satch brand, which will raise the front end higher than b/f.

OEM WHEELS. They're the best ones made.

OEM aux fan. They'll outlast OE/aftermarket, run quieter, and spins w/out vibration. plus they come w/ new resistor packs ($75) for the '97-'98 e39.

OEM rr window regulator. THe OEM one I got from dealer retained the one push window up/down feature. THe OE one I got from AUtohaus deleted that feature. Why that is, I
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  #5  
Old 08-17-2011, 09:31 AM
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blackandcoke blackandcoke is offline
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By experience ICV,MAF
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  #6  
Old 08-17-2011, 12:43 PM
terrystu terrystu is offline
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Wheel bearings - OEM only!
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  #7  
Old 08-17-2011, 02:45 PM
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Expansion tank
Fan blade
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  #8  
Old 08-22-2011, 11:36 AM
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Today, someone replaced the CPS only to get the same CPS code.
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Just changed camshaft position sensor and have another problem

A memorable quote was as follows:
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  #9  
Old 09-03-2011, 05:00 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, it looks like folks recommend the aux fan only be OEM:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > aux. fan not working (aioros)

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Use OEM only.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DHoang View Post
I concur!
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  #10  
Old 09-03-2011, 06:21 PM
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  #11  
Old 09-03-2011, 06:50 PM
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Vin M Vin M is offline
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bluebee,

I think it's important that we clarify the difference between OE / OEM / Aftermarket parts, I've noticed this seems to be a source of confusion for many people.

Below, I have pasted an article from bimmerzone's tips and tricks section regarding this topic.

*Note: I have included the direct link to the article at the bottom.


OE vs OEM vs Aftermarket


OE (Original Equipment or Genuine BMW)

These are the parts that you get EXACTLY as if you are walking up to an authorized dealership and buying a part at the parts counter. (Example: Oxygen Sensor BMW Part # 11 78 1 735 499). These parts usually come in BMW marked packaging.


OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer)

OEM parts are parts that come from the same factory that makes your Original BMW parts, but they are boxed in their respective brands. (Example: Oxygen Sensor BOSCH Part #13231, which cross references to: BMW Part # 11 78 1 735 499). These parts are sold directly from the manufacturer to the suppliers or retailers and not through the BMW Dealer network, and usually means savings for the end consumer while still having the same OEM standards that the vehicle manufacturer specified.


Aftermarket

Aftermarket products are from manufacturers that do not supply to BMW in any shape or form, it is important to note that its not necessary that aftermarket parts are inferior. In general, there are 2 kinds of aftermarket products.

The first kind is a cheaper replacement that provide affordability to consumers, these maybe the same quality as the OE/OEM parts or could be a little inferior to the OE/OEM products. A lot of customers like to purchase non-critical parts like air filters so save a few dollars, as long as it is a good reputable brand, you should be good to go! (just do your research!)

The second kind are considered upgraded parts, a very good example is the aluminium thermostat housing for an E36 BMW, the original BMW plastic housing is prone to failures and the aftermarket aluminum eliminates this problem. In this case, most of our customers prefer to purchase the aftermarket aluminium housing for better longivity.


Link: www.bimmerzone.com/OE vs OEM vs Aftermarket
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  #12  
Old 09-12-2011, 11:13 AM
ElwoodBlues ElwoodBlues is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHoang View Post
OEM front strut bearings. They're molded differently than the OE Satch brand, which will raise the front end higher than b/f.
Say what?!?! I think I may have a touch of this. I thought my front ride height was just slightly off after the front end rebuild, but I didn't have the car new, so I thought maybe it was just my imagination.

Did you personally experience this? Would you happen to have pictures comparing the two parts, or measurements? Which brand(s) did you investigate?

For reference, it looks like this part (31336752735) is available from the following:
Sachs (BMA Auto Parts)
Meyle (BMA Auto Parts)
Lemforder (Pelican Parts)
Febi (Pelican Parts)
"Sachs-Boge/Lemfoerder OEM" (autohausaz.com - "Due to factory updates the packaging may indicate Lemfoerder or Sachs-Boge, these are the same company and the same parts.")

EDIT: Checked my records, and looks like I bought Lemforder.

Last edited by ElwoodBlues; 09-12-2011 at 09:10 PM.
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  #13  
Old 09-25-2012, 05:03 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
The expansion tank must be a Behr bought from a dealer.
At the moment, I'm gonna agree with the illustrious Fudman on this one.

I bought from Max, a well known and respected supplier to the forum members - but even 'my' Behr started leaking in just under two years of pretty tame use!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Well, it's 'my' turn again!

I noticed a puddle on my driveway today ...


So I started looking for the telltale white spots:

And, watching for a while, I found the culprit!


Note: I last replaced my Behr expansion tank in 2010 as noted by the markings on the side.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #14  
Old 12-15-2012, 04:01 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Cn90 listed these in another thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
There are however a few things that I stick to BMW, no matter what:
- Coolant reservoir
- Fan Blade
- FSR
- Cam/Crank sensor
etc.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #15  
Old 12-15-2012, 07:40 AM
moE39 moE39 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHoang View Post
OEM front strut bearings. They're molded differently than the OE Satch brand, which will raise the front end higher than b/f.

OEM WHEELS. They're the best ones made.

OEM aux fan. They'll outlast OE/aftermarket, run quieter, and spins w/out vibration. plus they come w/ new resistor packs ($75) for the '97-'98 e39.

OEM rr window regulator. THe OEM one I got from dealer retained the one push window up/down feature. THe OE one I got from AUtohaus deleted that feature. Why that is, I
For Window Regulator isn't about OEM or aftermarket issues, its a programming issues you have.

You have to programm the power window first. and its quiet easy way to program.

Just Hold the down switch for approximetly 15 seconds to program one push "down/Open" feature .. Do this way for the opposite (one push "Up/Close" window).

Hope this will help. and lets enjoy the manliest thing that ever made.

CMIIW..
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  #16  
Old 12-17-2012, 05:12 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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There are some who say to only use the oem vcg:

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeson View Post
DO NOT USE 'Victor Reinz' gasket.

IT has been discussed many times that it will leak soon.

Like this one.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...875&highlight=


Buy OEM from dealer and you are going to like it.
Trust me, I replaced mine twice this year and no more leak after OEM.
Similar thoughts seem to be in the what-brand-to-buy threads:
Quote:
Originally Posted by agent15 View Post
Based on my research and on the advice of bimmerteck, I discarded my like-new Victor Reinz gasket after about 15,000 miles and replaced it with a Genuine BMW one when I had to replace my valve cover.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #17  
Old 01-05-2013, 08:57 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I'm beginning to believe this also...since my 1.5 year old expansion tank is leaking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
The only reliable source for a replacement expansion tank is the dealer. Any other brand, to include Behr, bought anywhere else has a documented history of premature failure. This is not to say a third party expansion tank WILL fail prematurely nor will a dealer-sourced expansion guarantee reliable operation. The widespread anecdotal evidence indicates that the probability for premature failure of a third party expansion tank is noticeably higher than a dealer-sourced expansion tank. Hence, you roll the dice when buying any brand tank from any source other than the dealer.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #18  
Old 01-05-2013, 09:46 AM
Mister Drexciya Mister Drexciya is offline
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What's also important to note is that there are many fake OEM parts out there advertised as "genuine OEM parts" that will find their way through many outlets (fleabay, amazon, dealextreme) to unsuspecting buyers at (much) lower prices. Most fake parts find their origins in countries like China, VietNam, Turkey to mention but a few. Often, one will need to have forensic qualities to distinguish between the real OEM and the fake OEM parts.

For peace of mind I choose to buy either from the dealer of from the OEM and thus choose to pay "higher" prices instead of having to deal with the aggravation and risk of cheaper (fake) parts failing prematurely and/or not performing up to its intended specifications.

Last edited by Mister Drexciya; 01-05-2013 at 09:51 AM.
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  #19  
Old 01-05-2013, 03:51 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHoang View Post

OEM WHEELS. They're the best ones made.
this
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  #20  
Old 01-05-2013, 07:25 PM
dumblucky dumblucky is offline
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just put a junk yard motor in my bimmer. had four codes for about a week always changing various misfire ectect.
cahnged out the precat autozone BOSCH O2 sensors for two new units from a repuatable BMW parts seller online, no more codes
lesson learned
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  #21  
Old 01-05-2013, 07:29 PM
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Coochie_Bandit Coochie_Bandit is offline
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A rear main seal..

I Paid for the job because I have no lift. Supplied the rear main seal from bavauto.

Defective seal.. Still leaks.. FML.
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  #22  
Old 01-06-2013, 12:49 PM
dumblucky dumblucky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coochie_Bandit View Post
A rear main seal..

I Paid for the job because I have no lift. Supplied the rear main seal from bavauto.

Defective seal.. Still leaks.. FML.
super ouch. now I don't feel so bad thanx
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  #23  
Old 01-22-2013, 02:01 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Found this today which is apropos for this thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonSC540ia View Post
I just replaced my CCV for preventive maintenance. After I replaced it with one of those $40 ones it had the symtoms of a failed CCV (howling, extreme suction sound when dipstick pulled). I replaced just the back cover and diaphragm with another one. Failed CCV symtoms gone. Further inspection reviled this, one the "new" CCV diaphragm.



If you bought a non OEM one and your still showing signs of failed CCV, might be something to look at.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #24  
Old 03-31-2013, 09:40 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This bit of anecdotal information, posted today, may be of use to others:

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMagic View Post
Here is my Saturday update. I decided to run one more trial today. I checked out my original WSS that I removed and wanted to determine if one of them was good enough to put back into the rear left. That location would immediately tell me if the speedometer worked again. One of the sensors had a severed wire but the other had bare wires and a broken mounting bracket where the bolt goes through. I was able to put a tiny piece of plastic between the conductors, the same as I had done on the front, removed the new unit from the RL and installed this old sensor. Drove the car and voila - the speedometer, odometer and mpg computer were working. The ABS lights were still on and cruise and ASC would not work because I still had the PEX unit in the RR. Kudos to HTK12 for pushing me to be suspect of the PEX sensors. I have made arrangements to return the PEX sensors and will follow up with the overall learnings from this exercise as soon as the new VDO/Siemens are installed.
EDIT on April 14th:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMagic View Post
My final update for the ABS problems with the rear wheels. Based on the trial I did in replacing a questionable new PEX WSS with an original that I kept, I decided that the PEX needed to be replaced as they were not working. I contacted the seller and they agreed to take them back. They also sold the OEM VDO/Siemens brand sensors but at a cost of $80 more per sensor. I got the new VDO sensors, installed them and as soon as I drove about 10 feet, the warning lights were all off. So the problem was with the PEX sensors. They do not work in the rear of the '97 528i with Bosch 5.0 ABS. I wrote to PEX and they are interested in the situation and will work with the seller to resolve. I asked that they inform me of their findings and I'm sure they want to get these to work properly. I ran so many checks and rechecks and even bought a used 5.0 ABS module in case that was defective but it is fine so my original module stays in place. Seems the Bosch 5.0 modules are reasonably durable - at least mine is. However if anyone needs one I have a working one for sale. Everything in the car is now working as it should, all warnings lights out and the trans shifts well. I am still puzzled why my new front WSS made by PEX are working. I did ask that question of PEX and have no answer yet. Thanks to everyone on this board for all the valuable input.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 04-14-2013 at 02:23 PM.
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  #25  
Old 08-12-2013, 03:37 PM
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shaftdrive shaftdrive is offline
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Since the dealer Valeo is the right FSU to get, but since the dealers in my area charge $130, $159, and $183 (while sponsors charge less than half the lowest dealer price over here for their Valeo FSU), I need to ask

Whose dealer (who ships to the USA) sells the OEM Valeo FSU at the best price?
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