95 325i 5 speed 4,000 rpm driving 60 mph in 5th?

Do what I did on accident ....unleash at 1st gear and the rev limiter should kick in at 39mph. My car thinks it idles and 1k but redlines at 9k lol and at highway speed it thinks its running at 4 or 5k

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diff tags are not wrong 3.15 is stock diff for 325 5 speed its defs your tach

After some digging around, I believe you have an instrument cluster from a Z3. They are the only ones I believe came without an MPG gauge and with chromed rings. If the donor vehicle was an 1.9, then you have the 4- vs. 6-cylinder rpm problem.

Either that or a TI, they came without the MPG gauge as well.


Its the cluster. Not your diff.

OP...

Try this out, if cluster was bad the tach and speedo wouldn't be synchronized...

(Guys let me know if I'm wrong here ok)

I think that only tests the operation of the IC, not whether it's reading correctly. It can't hurt to try it, though. Good idea, Brad.

Good News: The car really stumbles at 1,000 rpm's when I tried to stay in gear or engage 1st, 1,000 rpm's would almost cause it to stall. AND, THE BIGGER DEAL - I tried red lining it, and it was going well past 7,000 and I didn't keep it going any more to the rev limiter because I figured I got my answer about the tach being wrong. So, is there any way to adjust it so I can have the correct reading (swap a gear in the tach?).

Bad News: This means my instrument cluster must have been swapped out at one time, so the 111,000 miles that I thought I have on the car is completely inaccurate. I know almost everything on the car except for the aluminum radiator seems stock. Shocks, struts, bushings, possibly even spark plugs.

So, I will run it a while a check the mileage to see how it goes. So will I be able to get the tach accurate? Thanks!

Does anyone have the ability to run a carfax for me? I am curious if the odometer swap, or whatever happened, shows up on it. My VIN is: WBABJ5325SJC82388
The report could be sent to jsdugan@gmail.com if someone is able to do this.
Thanks!

You'll have to swap the clusters to get an accurate tach. They can be had for around 100 bucks, and arent terribly hard to install

Originally Posted by jsdugan

Does anyone have the ability to run a carfax for me? I am curious if the odometer swap, or whatever happened, shows up on it. My VIN is: WBABJ5325SJC82388
The report could be sent to jsdugan@gmail.com if someone is able to do this.
Thanks!

No, that's illegal.

Originally Posted by drive by72

You'll have to swap the clusters to get an accurate tach....

Huh? What about the standard procedure of coding the cluster to match the car (and engine)?

I don't think you have to code the cluster at all. You just need one with the same mileage.

Only certain E36s came with codes you can swap, do a search on bimmerforums and it will show you.

I would just get a cluster with around the same mileage.

Except that he has no clue what the milage is now. He wasn't the one who swapped the clusters.

Well, since there's no tamper dot, we would assume the mileage on the cluster is correct, right?

The tamper dots weren't in all years. I don't recall what year they started off the top of my head.

Then what stops people from throwing in clusters with lower mileage?

What is this tamper dot thing? I just bought the car, so I guess I don't have a clue how many miles are actually on it. So, there is a chance I can reset a z3 tach, or whatever instrument cluster I have. I am guessing that I just need to live with it.

Just drove 200 ish miles and got 25 mpg with doing about 30% at 67, 55% at 57, and 15% in town. Oh, about 80 miles were with the AC on. Not the greatest, but I am sure the plugs are old and could use a tune up. The bad idle got a little better throughout the day, at first it would die if I put it in neutral and idle while slowing down, but throughout the day it got a little better.

25 isnt bad at all, except i get that going 85

So, besides the plugs and valve cover gaskets (which I am pretty sure don't have anything to do with mileage) , what should I replace for better mileage? The factory type air cleaner looked pretty clean.

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Pretty much the basics. Plugs, fuel filter, air filter, ensure good tire pressure, shift before 2500rpm while driving, coast as much as you can and use brakes only when you need to, etc.

Shift before 2,500, ha! Remember what my original post was about I may be dogging it a bit too much if I try that on my tach. I was surprised to see how cheap, and easy (I think; might be wrong), the fuel filter will be.