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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 07-06-2011, 06:54 AM
brickwhite brickwhite is offline
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Location: St. Louis (IL side)
 
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Mein Auto: 91 e30 and a 02 530i Man
DISA Replaced on 2002 530i

My DISA valve is replaced and the SES light is cleared and has not come back on.

However when I reconnected the battery my Remote locking system, keyed door locks, wipers, and interior lights no longer worked. When I reconnected the battery I guess it blew out the GM III Module.

$515 ($180 labor, $335 Parts), dollars later at the dealer and the GM III module was replaced.

FYI if those things go bad you can send your GM III to http://www.bmwgm5.com/GM3_Info.htm for $150 and get it fixed, it will save you alot of $$$$$.


Thanks,
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  #27  
Old 07-06-2011, 08:24 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Good info brickwhite.
It blows my mind how finnicky these e39 electronics are. I blew the IHKA panel doing that about 2 years ago, but I got lucky and had it changed by the dealer under warranty.
It seems that one can really bugger up the car by removing the battery and reattaching it later. There must be some explanation....
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  #28  
Old 09-26-2011, 12:13 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the crosslinked record, this thread today shows why you want to check your DISA before 100K miles:
- Bingo!! I may have solved the misfire and lean codes P0171, P0174, P0300



See also:
- Why check the DISA at 85K miles to 90K miles or whenever the airbox is removed (1) (2) & how to repair a rattling DISA unit (1) (2) (3) & why the DIfferenzierte SAuganlage ("Differential Air Intake") valve flap breaks (1), sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) & how the disa valve o-ring fails (1) (2) & how it can cause all sorts of cold-engine rough idle problems (1) (2) & where to get just the DISA valve o-ring (1) & how the DISA valve operates (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & an example of how a broken DISA valve can ruin your engine (1) & how to test DISA operation (1) (2) (3) (4).
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  #29  
Old 10-02-2011, 07:37 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I came here just now to cross reference this nice DISA autopsy today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > DISA Autopsy

But, in doing so, I noticed this post above by Doru:
Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
Once the DISA is out, and in case it's still good (fat chance), the glued O-ring seal is certainly toast.
In re-reading this thread, I noticed, for the first time, the word "glued".
Hmmmm...
When I removed my DISA last week, I didn't notice any glue.

Over in this thread, the 'glue' is mentioned again:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > DISA 0 Ring

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazza-Aus View Post
the original seal is moulded and "glued" into place.
If this glue exists, then the two questions below are begged:
Q1: Why didn't I notice this glue when I removed my DISA this week?
Q2: Why hasn't anyone suggested any glue (to my knowledge) when re-installing an old or new DISA?

Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
To replace the glued O-ring, is not that easy.
If the original is glued in, then we should probably 're-glue' a new or re-placed DISA.

Q3: What glue should we use?

Note: I used 'Permatex copper ultra' but I didn't know about the reputed glue until just now, which is why I ask.
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  #30  
Old 10-07-2011, 10:00 AM
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gtxragtop gtxragtop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
I replaced my DISA valve when I did the cooling overhaul.
I had +/- 89 k miles (143,xxx Km). To replace it it's a piece of cake. Literally. The "biggest job" is to remove the air box to have room, other than that, take the rubber boots off and unscrew the DISA.
I had some whirring noises, which disappeared after I changed the DISA. When I pulled it out, the top steel pin was loose - halfway out. The flapper also had 1/4" play at the beginning of the turn (when opening the valve) - very easy to open that 1/4" if you will. then, it was tighter, just like the new valve.
The reason I asked for the mileage is that I looked on various forums to see what other people experience was with the DISA. It seemed that lots of people experienced trouble after the 100 k Miles mark. I was close to 90k, and the DISA didn't look very good. Maybe the "cutoff" is around 85-90 k miles for this part?
Need T40 Torx to remove screws. I 100% agree on the approach to replace the part listed above by Doru. Worked out well for me. I did exactly the same thing before reading this post.

Just replaced mine at 121K miles. It appeared to still be operational in that it held vacuum. The flap was intact but had 1/2" of play. I would hear rattling noises from time to time. Not real loud but there. Quiet as a mouse starting up. Given the 1/2" of play it was only a matter of time to self destruction. The steel pin was intact and well stuck in place.

I pulled it apart to see how it works. I think there are photos out there. If not, I'll post some. The wear item was the plastic part that connects to the vacuum dashpot arm that plugs into the valve. Looks like both this part and the valve where they mate wore. Most likely from air turbulence and el-cheapo plastic parts.
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Last edited by gtxragtop; 10-07-2011 at 10:52 AM.
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  #31  
Old 10-07-2011, 11:00 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtxragtop View Post
I pulled it apart to see how it works. I think there are photos out there.
There are some here:
- A DISA autopsy (1)

But the unanswered question is exactly HOW does the DISA get its vacuum?

Does it 'generate' the vacuum with a vacuum pump; or does it 'steal' vacuum from the intake manifold?
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  #32  
Old 10-07-2011, 02:05 PM
vclifford vclifford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Oh. Until you added the "just kidding", we thought you were serious!

Methinks at about 100K all of us should 'inspect' the DISA visually by removing it.

I've never done a DISA removal ... so I'm still scared of how much work it might be (I didn't look at the DIYs before posting this so it 'might' actually be easy to remove).
I thought I read your post that you have done it. Anyway yesterday I got curious ( I had no rattling noise etc) after going through all the DISA compilation you maintain and removed it (two T40 screws), no need to remove air intake hose, just removed t40 screws, tilted it slightly and it came out fine. The car is at 122K. The DISA looked OK, I removed the pin, it took some effort but not much. and then I removed the lower swivel joint thing. The hexagon shaped joint was in good shape. I used Jweld while putting back the pin and the swivel joint so that every thing is tight (essentially filled the tube where pin goes with Jweld. Used sensor save RTV for putting it back in. waited 24 hrs before driving the car.


There are some youtube videos on removing and checking it (including the rattle noise). If you remove electrical connection and some rattle sound is missing then DISA is an issue.

Regards,
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  #33  
Old 10-07-2011, 06:56 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vclifford View Post
I thought I read your post that you have done it.
Yes. By now, I've removed my DISA.


It was ridiculously simple to remove ...


But, you do need to deal with the now-unsealed o-ring!
- Where to get just the M54 DISA valve o-ring (1)


Since I didn't have the o-ring, I improvised:


BTW, nobody yet has confirmed that the original DISA is 'glued' in and, if so, what glue is used on a replacement DISA???



QUESTION: What "glue" do you use when replacing your DISA?
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  #34  
Old 10-07-2011, 08:19 PM
vclifford vclifford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
QUESTION: What "glue" do you use when replacing your DISA?
I used permatex, black RTV , sensor safe. (it was for medium temperature usage).
otherwise used Jweld so that it does not lose appendages.

Regards,
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  #35  
Old 10-07-2011, 11:38 PM
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tmvE39/E53/Z32 tmvE39/E53/Z32 is offline
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Bluebee, I think the glue they talked about is the O-ring to DISA valve, not DISA valve to intake manifold. It seems to me that you wonder what glue to use for the later which is none.
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  #36  
Old 10-08-2011, 05:57 AM
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gtxragtop gtxragtop is offline
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double post
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Last edited by gtxragtop; 10-08-2011 at 06:01 AM. Reason: double post
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  #37  
Old 10-08-2011, 06:00 AM
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gtxragtop gtxragtop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
There are some here:
- A DISA autopsy (1)

But the unanswered question is exactly HOW does the DISA get its vacuum?

Does it 'generate' the vacuum with a vacuum pump; or does it 'steal' vacuum from the intake manifold?
There is a small hole if you look carefully on the base. The large box is a vacuum reservoir.
They added a mesh filter on the inside so that debris does not clog the hole.
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  #38  
Old 10-08-2011, 05:21 PM
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AnotherGeezer AnotherGeezer is offline
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Replaced mine today. The old one wasn't broken or falling apart but the vacuum diaphragm no longer worked as the flapper valve was free to flap.

Car seemed to run better and had more zip coming off the low end. Also no longer had those weird intermittent off-idle burps.

120k seemed like a good time to change one.
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