540 mods and SC build

Originally Posted by bricas45

I also do not plain on using the Dinan back plate.

Why? You don't have one?

Originally Posted by bricas45

Vortech BOV

Yep, same one I have installed now.

Originally Posted by 540alex

Why? You don't have one?



Yep, same one I have installed now.

I don't have it and don't feel like shoveling over $200 for theirs.

Originally Posted by bricas45

I don't have it and don't feel like shoveling over $200 for theirs.

Yes, if you don't have it, it's not worth paying $200 for... I could take some pics of mine over the weekend for your reference if you are interested.

Originally Posted by 540alex

Yes, if you don't have it, it's not worth paying $200 for... I could take some pics of mine over the weekend for your reference if you are interested.

Would be great man it seem like a rip off just to bypass

Here's what it looks like. Also some pictures of what I did to it over the weekend.

I also built a bracket for the catch can, still needs to be painted. Here's a mockup.

Originally Posted by 540alex

Here's what it looks like. Also some pictures of what I did to it over the weekend.

Wow I didn't realize their plate was aluminum like that! I was thinking it was just a modified OEM plate. What are all the new ports you made? For sensors? Also what is that electric sensor in the center? A MAP sensor? Also the catch can looks great. Do you still need it or just adding it now as belt and suspenders?

Originally Posted by bricas45

Wow I didn't realize their plate was aluminum like that! I was thinking it was just a modified OEM plate. What are all the new ports you made? For sensors? Also what is that electric sensor in the center? A MAP sensor? Also the catch can looks great. Do you still need it or just adding it now as belt and suspenders?

The stock end plate has two vacuum lines/ports, plus now there is a vacuum line to the blow off valve. In Dinan kit the three lines all connect to one nipple on the back plate using plastic adapters, which I thought was a bit messy. So I added two more connections in stock locations on the plate dedicated to the two stock lines and will use the other connection for the BOV. The sensor in the middle is the boost pressure sensor.

I drove about 60 miles to the office and back on Friday with the catch can and when I removed it later that evening, the inlet hose had was just a bit oily, while the outlet was completely dry. It seems that at least at this point oil out of the crank case is not a major issue, but the catch can will help almost completely eliminate any oily fumes from the intake, which I think is a good thing, so I decided to put it in.

EDIT: just remembered... when I removed the aluminum PCV pipe under the manifold, there was some oil in it. So the catch can will certainly help.

That is an intersting set up dinan has on that bracket and your additions look good. I may just drill out the oil seperator connection and put a tube in sort of like dinan has just to extent hose to back should be really easy. and seal off the CCV of course.

Originally Posted by bricas45

That is an intersting set up dinan has on that bracket and your additions look good. I may just drill out the oil seperator connection and put a tube in sort of like dinan has just to extent hose to back should be really easy. and seal off the CCV of course.

That will work too, you can just cut off that plastic pipe that extends from the stock plate. Another issue that you might have with the stock plate is securing the stock vacuum plumbing to the plate so it doesn't pop under boost

For my setup I made a 180 degree fitting for the oil separator outlet so that I won't have to go around the engine to the oil separator on the front. Instead the hose will come out at the front of the engine and hopefully the 180 fitting will trap some oil as well.

[QUOTE=540alex;6355718]That will work too, you can just cut off that plastic pipe that extends from the stock plate. Another issue that you might have with the stock plate is securing the stock vacuum plumbing to the plate so it doesn't pop under boost
QUOTE]

good point not sure how I will secure it yet. Could probably replace with brass fittings glued in place.

Cut and plugged the secondary air intake tube to remove the valve which is in the way of the charger. There are 2 pieces I plugged and put back into the exhaust took a photo of the one. Car actually runs better as there was apparently a leak at the valve I didn't know about! So to all out there check that your valves are tight. Mine must have shaken loose. No leaks now and runs great with more room.

Originally Posted by bricas45

Cut and plugged the secondary air intake tube to remove the valve which is in the way of the charger. There are 2 pieces I plugged and put back into the exhaust took a photo of the one. Car actually runs better as there was apparently a leak at the valve I didn't know about! So to all out there check that your valves are tight. Mine must have shaken loose. No leaks now and runs great with more room.

Where is the secondary air intake tube located? And what is this valve exactly? I don't recognize the part in your picture

Originally Posted by 540alex

Where is the secondary air intake tube located? And what is this valve exactly? I don't recognize the part in your picture

Your car doesn't have it let me take some photos of the valve.

Removed valve...only on m62tu

All it does it pump clean air into exhaust on a cold start up for emissions. It was in the way and noisy so it is now gone!

Also that T-bar on the PCV I have is 5/8 on 2 ports and 3/8 on the other.

Originally Posted by bricas45

Removed valve...only on m62tu

Also that T-bar on the PCV I have is 5/8 on 2 ports and 3/8 on the other.

Thanks, that explains it.

will be modding my hose not the plate on mine. This should be easier. I will do this and attach pcv to my intake as a test before full install. I will plug the pipe with something like JB weld. And put a 'T' connector between the oil seperator and the end plate.

Doesn't Dinan and the other mfgs have this all figured out and and tested out already?

Afterall, there are hundreds of compressor systems out there functioning normally. Or do I have this wrong?

Originally Posted by franka

Doesn't Dinan and the other mfgs have this all figured out and and tested out already?

Afterall, there are hundreds of compressor systems out there functioning normally. Or do I have this wrong?

Yes just don't feel like dumping $200 towards the Dinan plate.

Originally Posted by bricas45

will be modding my hose not the plate on mine. This should be easier. I will do this and attach pcv to my intake as a test before full install. I will plug the pipe with something like JB weld. And put a 'T' connector between the oil seperator and the end plate.

This 'might' work. The problem you may run into is space, which is very tight under the manifold. Attached is what I ended up doing. Even the clamps for the U connector wouldn't fit, but the hoses sit VERY tight there so I thought it's OK to leave them out.

I think if I didn't have the plate, I would make one. It's just a piece of aluminum, a few holes and hose connectors, pretty straight forward. The only complication there is the welded PCV pipe, but I ended up not using it after all.

Originally Posted by 540alex

This 'might' work. The problem you may run into is space, which is very tight under the manifold. Attached is what I ended up doing. Even the clamps for the U connector wouldn't fit, but the hoses sit VERY tight there so I thought it's OK to leave them out.

I think if I didn't have the plate, I would make one. It's just a piece of aluminum, a few holes and hose connectors, pretty straight forward. The only complication there is the welded PCV pipe, but I ended up not using it after all.

You might want to add a little longer hose so that when the engine rocks on its mounts there will be sufficient slack in the hoses to accommodate the stretch.

I believe the engine rotates clockwise, when generating torque, as seen from the driver's position.

Originally Posted by franka

You might want to add a little longer hose so that when the engine rocks on its mounts there will be sufficient slack in the hoses to accommodate the stretch.

I believe the engine rotates clockwise, when generating torque, as seen from the driver's position.

There is actually some clearance between the hose and the timing cover, but it's a good point. I'll double check how it actually behaves when the engine is revved.

Originally Posted by 540alex

This 'might' work. The problem you may run into is space, which is very tight under the manifold. Attached is what I ended up doing. Even the clamps for the U connector wouldn't fit, but the hoses sit VERY tight there so I thought it's OK to leave them out.

I think if I didn't have the plate, I would make one. It's just a piece of aluminum, a few holes and hose connectors, pretty straight forward. The only complication there is the welded PCV pipe, but I ended up not using it after all.

Are you not using the little inlet connection that is on end of pipe? What is the ID of the hose you had to use to go around that oil separator connection point?

Originally Posted by 540alex

There is actually some clearance between the hose and the timing cover, but it's a good point. I'll double check how it actually behaves when the engine is revved.

When the engine mounts fail the engine' rock is great enough to pull the upper radiator hose into the fan blade. I had it happen to me.


Of course if you keep new motor mounts on the car at all times it will not rock as severly. But on the otherhand with at least 1/3 more torque the engine will rock over farther than normal and will wreck the engine mounts sooner than later.

Just something to keep in mind.

Originally Posted by bricas45

Are you not using the little inlet connection that is on end of pipe? What is the ID of the hose you had to use to go around that oil separator connection point?

No, I completely removed the aluminum pipe connecting the two. The oil separator outlet is 16mm in diameter. The hose I used is 5/8".