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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #26  
Old 02-18-2011, 05:54 PM
MRF4665 MRF4665 is offline
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Really appreciate the thorough response Roberto.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
1. Why did you swap out your old cap and rotor?
Car was running rather rough and would sometimes be a challenge to start. Pulled cap and noted that both cap and rotor were pitted and also had carbon deposits. Since both were original from 1989, I swapped them out and car ran great for ~2 months.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
2. Do you still have the old stuff?

3. If you swapped it all out as a means of anticipatory replacement and not because they were damaged per se, then you can try swopping them back out to see if it helps.
Yep, I saved them. Have been contemplating cleaning them up and reinstalling to see if perhaps my new cap and rotor somehow went south. Removed, inspected, and reinstalled the new cap a few weeks ago as it looked fine so I have not put the old parts back in as yet.


Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
4. Can't remember - have you cleaned our your idle control valve and the air hose that's fixed to it? Wd40 will suffice for this. If this doesn't help, it is possible that your idle control valve may need to be replace - be prepared for this possibility

4.5 HYour air filter and air hoses and intakes are ok right?

5. Have you cleaned out your throttle position sensor? Not sure if a manual car has one actually but yea probably does.

7. Have you cleaned out your fuel filter recently?
Have not cleaned ICV or throttle position sensor. Any links to tutorials on how to accomplish would be greatly appreciated. Air hoses and intakes all check out ok. Fuel filter is about 6 years, 20,000 miles old and has not been cleaned recently.


Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
8. Why did it cost $1k to change the clutch on your car? The clutch itself should not cost more than $200...did you buy some dual mass thingamajig, even then it should be around the same price.

9. Do you still have driveline vibration?
Had two local independent shops quote stock clutch replacement. One was $800 and second was $1000. Went with the $800 shop and within 2 hours got "the call" and was informed that extra parts would need to be replaced. Total bill was over $1000. Such is nature of auto repairs in So. Cal. I'm guessing.

Observed bad vibration under load and took back to shop. Was then informed that my u-joint was bad and would require another ~$1000 for a rebuilt shaft. I said 'no'. They reassembled and vibration is still present but far more tolerable.

Thanks again for the help.

Mark
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  #27  
Old 02-18-2011, 06:09 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Regarding the driveshaft/driveline vibration, it sounds completely like the mechanic did not properly index the driveshaft. It is also possible that they did not get the clutch plate in correctly, possibly not utilizing the clutch alignment tool correctly.

If there was no driveline vibration prior to taking the car to the mechanic, then there was not a problem .. period ... I do agree that you should contact them and discuss further work on the driveline to eradicate the vibration ... at no cost to you!. Just some thoughts.

Steve
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It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold


Last edited by BMR_LVR; 02-18-2011 at 06:10 PM.
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  #28  
Old 02-18-2011, 10:31 PM
MRF4665 MRF4665 is offline
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My clutch woes were ~8 months ago and the shop was quite adamant at the time that they did everything correctly and that my u-joint was bound up and was the culprit for the vibration. Even though the clutch replacement came with a 1 year warranty, I don't have a lot of recourse nor energy to pursue it further. Lesson learned and one of the reasons why I want to turn the wrench myself to figure out my current stuttering problem. Plus, I'm enjoying the learning process.

Will consult my Bentley manual and try and get to my ICV over the weekend.

Mark
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  #29  
Old 02-19-2011, 07:19 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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We learn from every experience. Or at least we should I certainly would not give that shop anymore of my business and would warn others. Word of mouth can be very poweful in supporting a business or letting others know of poor quality workmanship and pricing practices.
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #30  
Old 02-19-2011, 10:31 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRF4665 View Post
My clutch woes were ~8 months ago and the shop was quite adamant at the time that they did everything correctly and that my u-joint was bound up and was the culprit for the vibration. Even though the clutch replacement came with a 1 year warranty, I don't have a lot of recourse nor energy to pursue it further. Lesson learned and one of the reasons why I want to turn the wrench myself to figure out my current stuttering problem. Plus, I'm enjoying the learning process.

Will consult my Bentley manual and try and get to my ICV over the weekend.

Mark

Hi Mark and thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.

May i take this opportunity to criticise your approach to the workshop here?

Charlatans count on people running out of patience, time, steam or guts or some combination of all four to push through bull****. And when such tactics work on the most of a sample size of victims, the workshop thinks that it can do this to every person out there. And the consumer suffers at the end of the day. How do you think you ended up being the victim of this bull****?

There's only one way to put a stop to this....its to put a stop to it. Be adamant about the problem. Get enough of an education about it to be able to talk them out of their bull****. This is a civilised country, not the wild wild west (in some ways that would be easier actually ) so you have your consumer and legal protections. You need to invest the time into the job to do it and get your justice.

They probably took a look at your face and decided, oh what a nice guy, successful and busy too, we can rip him off and outlast his bull****. They put some moron in charge of the work on your beemer. They screwed you over. You've let them get away with it? I think that's ridiculous and that's how we got to the point here where practically everybody on this and other other forums has at least 2-3 personal stories of gross negligence, incompetence and/or fraud by workshops, and have heard of several more from others. This is a pestilence. Why do we put up with this bull****?

It not preferred but far less objectionable if a workshop is a little pricier than average, but gets the job done with no need to return later to fix what they screwed up.

Mark, I say. Go back to those guys. Insist that they get the job done right or else you're going to complain to the press, any relevant business associations in your area, post their names on national forums, start a blog for all disgruntled customers of that workshop to gather and trade stories about them specifically, and will consider legal and other punitive actions if they don't fix everything for free with warranty, including spare parts and labour, and you would consider legal action if they cause you to spend all that time in engaging in the above, and you'll go for punitive damages because the driveline vibration they caused could lead to unpredictable damage while driving considering that this is an old car, and they have caused a real risk to you as a result.

Tell them that there's one way for them to fix this. They can give you a full refund including the cost of the clutch. You'll need to go somewhere else to fix your car and bring it back to perfection. That's a good approach as its best to get someone else rather than these guys to fix your car back.

Your response to this bull**** is to get an education in being a mechanic. I say, there's a better approach. Get an education in consumer laws and legal redress. Get your money back, and make sure they understand that people are not going to be so dumb as to get ripped by them. Write a book entitled "how to make sure your workshop does not rip you off" and make a million dollars on that. In that book, make a list of all the workshops in the nation who have committed to purchase 1000 copies of your book at wholesale rates and distribute them to their customers for free, as an affirmation of their own workshop's best practices and their condemnation of the cheap tactics of their industry brethren, which has only served to tarnish everybody's reputation with the same tar-and-feather duster.

I've recommended getting tough with an errant workshop to at least one forummer before. He had a similar problem as you and posted here merely grumbling about it. After reading my post and considering the issues, he called them up and gave them an ultimatum. They immediately paid up - gave him a full refund. He took his business elsewhere. We've not heard from him since - safe to say that he rode off in the wide blue yonder, over the prairie, where the buffalo roam, where his wife in her bonnet is baking blueberry pie in a wood-fired stove, looking anxiously out the window, waiting for him to ride on back......someone stop me......

Do consider what I've said here. The actions of others who gave up lead to the point where you could get ripped off. Break the chain right here, for everyone's sake.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 02-19-2011 at 10:32 AM.
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  #31  
Old 02-19-2011, 10:42 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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After reading what you wrote, that you had the same symptoms before you replaced the caps, I'm going to suspect that its your distribution caps and wire assembly or something related to that which is busted and causing this issue. Perhaps some electrical ground connections associated with that (can someone comment if Mark's symptoms can be caused by bad/deteriorating grounding?)
. I say this because it is unlikely and unusual for the idle control valve to get dirty overnight.

However, the idle control valve is a regular maintenance item - it must be cleaned at least once every year, ideally once every 6 months (only done when its not a pia to access, which it usually is). The throttle position switch generally remains alright, but wd40 from time to time always helps to keep the connections clean.

Are you able to get your car's computer scanned? Does the stomp test work on your car (google for the stomp test and how to conduct and interpret it) ? If so do that...there may be clues there as to what is wrong.



rgds,
Roberto
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  #32  
Old 02-19-2011, 04:49 PM
MRF4665 MRF4665 is offline
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Thanks for the advice regarding my former clutch repair, Roberto. I will seek out a different independent shop to get their impression on the previous shop's diagnosis of my transmission / driveline vibration and then go from there. I simply don't have enough knowledge / experience with clutches, transmissions, or drive shafts to effectively counter their diagnosis of my issue.

Per your suggestion, I removed, cleaned, and reinstalled my ICV this morning (for the first time in over 20 years). Misfires are still present as you suspected but at least my ICV is squeaky clean and was very easy to service.

Also tried the stomp test without success. Either A) my 535i (manufactured Oct. '88) does not work with stomp test, or B) I somehow performed the test incorrectly, or C) my check engine bulb is burned out.

My next exercise is to replace my original cap and rotor to see if perhaps my new cap and rotor are somehow bad. Put a fine stainless brush wheel on my dremel this afternoon and went after the carbon deposits on the original rotor and it's exceptionally shiny now. Pitted, but shiny.

Also, anybody have any comment on whether my coil could be going bad or is already bad? What are typical symptoms of a bad coil. As mentioned earlier, my coil measures high on the secondary winding (9K ohm vs. spec 6K ohm) but I discounted this as being causal when I purchased and received a new Bosch coil that measured over 10K ohm on the secondary. Is my thinking flawed?

Will also be either cleaning my fuel filter or swapping it out entirely soon.

I'm getting warmer and learning in the process. Tremendously grateful to all who have offered assistance.

Mark
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  #33  
Old 02-19-2011, 05:22 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRF4665 View Post
Thanks for the advice regarding my former clutch repair, Roberto. I will seek out a different independent shop to get their impression on the previous shop's diagnosis of my transmission / driveline vibration and then go from there. I simply don't have enough knowledge / experience with clutches, transmissions, or drive shafts to effectively counter their diagnosis of my issue.

Per your suggestion, I removed, cleaned, and reinstalled my ICV this morning (for the first time in over 20 years). Misfires are still present as you suspected but at least my ICV is squeaky clean and was very easy to service.

Also tried the stomp test without success. Either A) my 535i (manufactured Oct. '88) does not work with stomp test, or B) I somehow performed the test incorrectly, or C) my check engine bulb is burned out.

My next exercise is to replace my original cap and rotor to see if perhaps my new cap and rotor are somehow bad. Put a fine stainless brush wheel on my dremel this afternoon and went after the carbon deposits on the original rotor and it's exceptionally shiny now. Pitted, but shiny.

Also, anybody have any comment on whether my coil could be going bad or is already bad? What are typical symptoms of a bad coil. As mentioned earlier, my coil measures high on the secondary winding (9K ohm vs. spec 6K ohm) but I discounted this as being causal when I purchased and received a new Bosch coil that measured over 10K ohm on the secondary. Is my thinking flawed?

Will also be either cleaning my fuel filter or swapping it out entirely soon.

I'm getting warmer and learning in the process. Tremendously grateful to all who have offered assistance.

Mark

Please try cleaning your fuel filter. I'd like someone else to try it and post their experiences here. There was some controversy over this recently (see link). In any case, cleaning it out will only improve things, and anyway, you can get a new one down the line as well.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=519507

Do try this out and post your results. Some over here require overwhelming proof before taking the plunge, which is understandable I guess.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 02-19-2011 at 05:24 PM.
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  #34  
Old 02-19-2011, 05:35 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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A rough idle could be a vacuum leak. Take a can of carburetor cleaner. Start the engine and leave it at idle. Spray the cleaner everywhere, especially where air seals on the engine could be found. Spray it on the airbox, the air flow meter, main air hose, subsidiary hoses, throttle body, intake manifold seals, valve cover...everywhere.

If your idle suddenly improves when you hit a particular spot, your idle will improve immediately. This happens because the carb cleaner gets sucked into the air hole/vacuum leak at that point, goes into the combustion chamber and combusts, thus restoring the fuel air mixture to more or less normal.

This can happen if repairs are not properly done on things like valve cover gaskets etc.

p.s. Glad that you cleaned up your idle control valve. Too bad it didn't fix the problem.
pp.s. The coil that you mention....resistances should be measured when they are cold. Coil resistances change when they get heated. In any case, if this is a 20-yr old coil.....dude get a new one, just like the caps, rotors and wires.. 535...worth spending money on.
p.p.s. Do you have the bentley manual? Use realoem.com too. Find out where your throttle position switch is located. Clean that and see.
p.p.p.s. You can try using a vacuum pressure gauge to get an idea about what could be wrong. Google about this...its a very interesting topic.
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  #35  
Old 02-19-2011, 08:38 PM
MRF4665 MRF4665 is offline
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Excellent. Thanks Roberto.

Will try to find some time and bust out my ramps and pull and clean my fuel filter tomorrow. Will also check my Bentley for procedures on checking / cleaning throttle position switch as well as make a trip to Pep Boys to snag some carb cleaner to sniff for vacuum leaks.

The previously reported coil resistance was at cold. Was confused that my original coil while out-of-spec measured much closer to spec than a brand new Bosch coil that I purchased. Pelican parts is local for me so perhaps I'll pick up another one next week...

Mark
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  #36  
Old 02-19-2011, 08:56 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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After reading Luckydog's post on this thread about his fuel pump causing the same symptoms, and a new thread just put up by Goosefoot with the same symptoms and his remedy being a new fuel pump, I would suggest that you put a new fuel filter on (cheaper than a pump). See if that solves the problem. If not, then you may need to consider getting a new fuel pump.

Steve
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold


Last edited by BMR_LVR; 02-19-2011 at 08:57 PM.
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  #37  
Old 02-20-2011, 08:48 AM
MRF4665 MRF4665 is offline
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Thanks Steve.

Just read Goosefoot's experience and his symptoms were somewhat similar to mine with the exception that I have no issues whatsoever with hard starts, stalling, and surging under acceleration. My issues are isolated to stuttering (misfires) under load below ~1500 rpm and occasional misfires at idle. Will keep fuel pump in mind if fuel filter cleaning / replacement proves unsuccessful. Just priced out fuel pumps and got my fingers crossed that mine is still good (no noise or other odd sounds so far with my pump).

Mark
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  #38  
Old 02-20-2011, 08:51 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Ok. Didn't realize there was that much difference in the symptoms. I wish I knew more about the M30 so I could help some. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you as well.

Steve

Edit: One thought. If you can check your fuel pressure at the rail, that should tell you if the pump is in good working order (assuming your fuel pressure regulator is working properly).
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold


Last edited by BMR_LVR; 02-20-2011 at 08:52 AM.
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  #39  
Old 02-20-2011, 01:30 PM
MRF4665 MRF4665 is offline
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Thanks Steve.

Was unable to swap/clean the fuel filter today but once I do, my next step will be to try to look at pressure at my injectors to ensure that all is fine.

After that I need to swap out my thrust arms again...

Mark
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  #40  
Old 02-20-2011, 01:44 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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You should purchase a new fuel pump for yourself. Its a great anticipatory repair. Your pump will die on you at some point for sure. New ones cost around $60-$70 shipped. Non oem stuff from Ebay will be fine as long as its new and there's a 1 year warranty on the pump. The old pump must be kept as a working spare...do not sell it off unless you've sold off your car itself.

At some point, I think we should all come up with a way to connect a second fuel pump in line with the first one. Maybe, that way, instead of replacing a (currently) working good pump, we can just fix up a backup. BMW should have done this in their cars to begin with. The fuel pump is too critical and item, and its too cheap to purchase and install, for them not to do so.
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  #41  
Old 02-20-2011, 06:37 PM
MRF4665 MRF4665 is offline
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$60-70 sure sounds a lot more palatable than the $218 at BMA and $240 at Pelican. Looks like I need to learn how to shop for parts on eBay...

Thanks for the advice Roberto.

Mark
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  #42  
Old 02-20-2011, 07:04 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by MRF4665 View Post
$60-70 sure sounds a lot more palatable than the $218 at BMA and $240 at Pelican. Looks like I need to learn how to shop for parts on eBay...

Thanks for the advice Roberto.

Mark

Its always a gamble at first, but you must make ebay your friend sir. I called up the seller and quizzed them about their pump for 10 minutes before deciding to go ahead. You can always check in with the forum before you purchase something, that's the smartest approach.

I recently removed my old pump to fix in a brand new no-brand one bought from ebay. The old one was making noise from time to time, but the noise had disappeared for some months. Didn't want to risk it so did the change.

The old pump was a piersburg. Upon close inspection, i noticed an inscription on it. January 2001. Yes it was like 10 years old. When i connected it directly to the battery, it ran with far greater strength than the new unbranded one that i purchased from ebay.

So used though it may be, you've got yourself a goot pump.

My new pump seems underpowered compared to the piersberg, when tested at the battery. However, there's been zero difference to my engine's performance, at all rpm ranges include +6k.
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  #43  
Old 10-05-2011, 08:02 PM
Santiagojimbee Santiagojimbee is offline
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I have an M34, 535i, It says unleaded only, not premium. 265k mi with no probs on reg fuel. I've owned the car since 21.5k mi. 6 mos ago changed the wires, rotor and put in platinum 4 plugs. Ran fine for 6 mos. A few days ago it idles a little rough, starts ok, and under heavy acel misses/detonates until the load decreases. I can run up to 4300rpm, then the rev is limited. It runs smooth, until you put a heavy load on the car. When I do the stomp test, I get a weird code code that I can't read. I can send a video if someone wants. It flashes on for 2.5 sec, off 2.5 sec, on for one sec, then repeats. If I clear the codes, it shows 1444 for no codes. I drive it, and the weird code comes back. I did put octane booster in in case I got a bad tank of gas. No change. Hoses and clamps are good. Starts instantly, and does not cut off. I cleaned the K and N filter. Still no change.

Help!
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  #44  
Old 10-06-2011, 05:11 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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First thing I would do is to get rid of the 4 prong plugs and return to the standard oem style plug. They run better, last longer and are much less expensive.

Please do post a video of the weird code being produced by the stomp test.

There are a lot of things it could be, but I would start with the plugs.

Steve
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #45  
Old 10-06-2011, 10:16 AM
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I agree, understanding the Self diagnostic code is where to start. About the plugs I would go with Copper iridium OE . I have read here many misfires, and rough idles were fixed by replacing old coils and boots.

Last edited by luckydog; 10-06-2011 at 10:20 AM.
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  #46  
Old 10-16-2011, 01:26 PM
MRF4665 MRF4665 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santiagojimbee View Post
I have an M34, 535i, It says unleaded only, not premium. 265k mi with no probs on reg fuel. I've owned the car since 21.5k mi. 6 mos ago changed the wires, rotor and put in platinum 4 plugs. Ran fine for 6 mos. A few days ago it idles a little rough, starts ok, and under heavy acel misses/detonates until the load decreases. I can run up to 4300rpm, then the rev is limited. It runs smooth, until you put a heavy load on the car. When I do the stomp test, I get a weird code code that I can't read. I can send a video if someone wants. It flashes on for 2.5 sec, off 2.5 sec, on for one sec, then repeats. If I clear the codes, it shows 1444 for no codes. I drive it, and the weird code comes back. I did put octane booster in in case I got a bad tank of gas. No change. Hoses and clamps are good. Starts instantly, and does not cut off. I cleaned the K and N filter. Still no change.

Help!
Your problem sounds very similar to mine and I'm curious as to whether you have any resolution.

I have replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned ICV, and cleaned airflow sensor. All parts replaced were OEM.

Still have the problem intermittently. On some occasions, all is fine and my 535i runs perfectly. On other occasions, I get horrible stuttering under heavy acceleration that goes away at ~1500 rpm or if I back off on the accelerator. My problem is seemingly random as I cannot pinpoint any specific conditions on when it occurs or does not occur.

My next part swap is going to be my battery as it is ~6+ years old and starting to get tired. Will report back if this resolves my issue.

I realize that I could take it to a local shop and they would likely swiftly resolve my issue (and clean out my wallet) but I am not willing to admit defeat yet.

Mark
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  #47  
Old 10-16-2011, 07:32 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRF4665 View Post
Your problem sounds very similar to mine and I'm curious as to whether you have any resolution.

I have replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned ICV, and cleaned airflow sensor. All parts replaced were OEM.

Still have the problem intermittently. On some occasions, all is fine and my 535i runs perfectly. On other occasions, I get horrible stuttering under heavy acceleration that goes away at ~1500 rpm or if I back off on the accelerator. My problem is seemingly random as I cannot pinpoint any specific conditions on when it occurs or does not occur.

My next part swap is going to be my battery as it is ~6+ years old and starting to get tired. Will report back if this resolves my issue.

I realize that I could take it to a local shop and they would likely swiftly resolve my issue (and clean out my wallet) but I am not willing to admit defeat yet.

Mark
Hi Mark,

This thread is more than 6 months old. I realised this as I started reading your first post and then came upon my replies.

I realise that I could be completely wrong in my earlier replies. I believe the problem you experience is due to two things :

1. Dirty fuel injection or fuel system. This prevents proper fuel delivery.
2. Over carbonised throttle body. This causes obstructions to the incoming airflow.
3. Your ignition system is working fine, as the tested impedances are correct.

1. To fix this, There are two things you need to do to. First you need to wash out your fuel filter. That's it, washing will be fine. Remove it, drain the fuel from both ends, immerse it in clean water fully, then drain from both ends, repeat five times until clean water runs out from both ends when you drain (it will initially look black), then drip dry and reinstall. Perfectly safe, and reduces your fuel filter replacement cycle to once every 5 years provided you do this cleaning once every year. If not use a new filter. The cleaning procedure described above takes a total of 5 minutes. Yes I have timed it.

Secondly, you need to run fuel injector cleaner through your system and lots of it. The best way to do this is to use automotive diesel. Please follow these steps carefully.

a. Drive until the emergency fuel tank light comes on, or until you are sure you're about empty.
b. Goto a gas station that has both diesel and regular pumps at the same booth (ideally).
c. First, fill diesel for between 2.5-5% of your fuel tank's full capacity. 2 quarts would be fine but up to 5% has been done with no trouble.
d. Then, fill up to FULL with regular gasoline.
e. Sequencing it this way ensures that both fuels mix well in the fuel tank. You'll have no trouble driving after this. I've been doing this for years as have others with no issues.
f. Alternatively, fill a gallon can with both diesel and regular in equal proportions. Shake it up good. Then use a funnel and pour it into your gas tank.

If this is the first time you're doing the above, do it for 3 fillups consecutively. Then, do it once, each time your change the oil on your engine. That's for good continuous maintenance.


2. You decarbonise your throttle body by removing the air boot that is connected to your throttle body, and then spraying carburetor cleaner onto the tb while opening and closing the valve. Spray as much as you like, its no issue. Do this on a cold engine.

There is another thing you can do as well. While the engine is idling, spray carb cleaner into the intake manifold via the brake booster's vacuum fitting, that you've removed for this purpose. The carb cleaner will enrich the air that's going in and to some degree, coat the intake valves as it flows into the combustion chamber. This can sometimes clean up the carbon coating the intake manifold and the intake valves.

I have seen truly scary pictures of intake manifolds in otherwise well maintained vehicles that are coated with SLUDGE. Real sludge. Scary. So if its possible and within your range of competence, get a new set of intake manifold gaskets, pull out your intake manifold, and give it a thorough cleaning, all with pictures. Sludge gets into the intake manifold due to the oil vapours coming from the crankcase ventilation system. Over time, this coats and deposits itself on the inside and can build up. If you do this, then maintain a good intake manifold by using one can of carb cleaner through the brake booster fitting, once every 6 months. Its probably an overkill, but hey, we waste tons of money every month for many things so why its no big deal putting more into tlc for your car.

If you remove your intake manifold, you will be able to look at your intake valves directly, and assess the carbon buildup right there. You may be able to remove some of the hard carbon that has been built up without removing the cylinder head, but that is very unlikely. It is however, worth a try.

As i finish this response, I realise there may be yet another reason for your issues. Hard carbon buildup on your piston tops. This is a very tough one. I've not been able to sort this one out reliably without removing the cylinder head. I've tried injecting marvel mystery oil, carburetor cleaner, into the spark plug wells and leaving it for a day to let it loosen up the carbon, then removing the fluid by cranking the engine with the spark plug holes open (excess fluid will fly out) and then replacing and driving with the spark plugs back in. I'm really not sure if that helped. Its time consuming to do, but its cheap, so you may want to give it a go anyway. It can't hurt the car, that's for sure. An dont worry about carb cleaner or MMO getting into your crankcase, MMO is just pale oil and carb cleaner will vapourise and get expelled by the crankcase ventilation system naturally.

Finally, and especially after while you're doing the diesel fuel cleaner treatment on your car, go for a high-rpm drive. Not a high speed drive (although do so if you can get away with it safely ). Switch to a lower gear and drive at between 5k-6k rpm and hold for 10 minutes at least, on the highway. You should be travelling at tolerable speeds and yet giving your engine a real serious workout.

Finally, do a diesel flush on your engine. It might not specifically help your current problems but it ensures a cleaner running vehicle. Add 1 quart of diesel to your crankcase when you're about to change the oil. Run the engine at idle speeds alone, for 15 minutes. Then drain and refill with a new oil and replace the oil filter. Since its so cheap and effortless, do this with every oil change. I have been for years.

Please do post back here after you've done any or all of the above, especially the easier stuff and let us know your results. If you do remove the intake manifold and clean it out, please take lots of pictures for us.

And please be assured that all of the above that I've recommended will benefit your car and is part of my regular maintenance regime on mine. And so, while it may not solve the specific issue that you have, you will not feel that you have wasted your time. You will get a better running vehicle overall.

And of course, it may fix your symptoms. Good luck.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 10-16-2011 at 07:33 PM.
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  #48  
Old 10-16-2011, 07:41 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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For good measure, take a look at your air filter, wash it out with detergent and water, drip dry and reinstall (it will dry out fully while driving, this is perfectly safe, I've done this for years and years, but oh yes don't put in a damp air filter when its freezing outside, for obvious reasons ), or use a new one. Then check out your air intake channels all the way to your throttle body. Ensure that there is no dirt or obstructions.
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:12 PM
MRF4665 MRF4665 is offline
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Thanks for yet another thorough and thoughtful response Roberto.

Given that I have a new fuel filter and a new fuel pump and zero resultant improvement, I'm beginning to believe that I may not have a fuel delivery issue. I did wash out my old fuel filter after installing the new one and it flowed very clean with seemingly no obstruction. Have saved it for my next fuel filter swap. Have also used about a gallon of diesel during my last two refuels and that has not improved my situation either.

Will try to notch out some time over the next few weekends to go at my intake with carb cleaner and will remove and reinstall all vacuum lines. A buddy swears by Seafoam so I may give that a whirl as well. He claimed that it made one of his older vehicles that was running rough perform as it did many years previous.

It's been a while since I've taken my 535i out to really stretch it's legs due to thrust arms that need to be swapped again (my 'lifetime' Lemforders with 735i bushings made it ~30k miles, sadly). Perhaps it's simply sad that it hasn't been driven hard it quite some time and is letting know...

Will post my progress after I've had some time to poke around a bit further.

Really appreciate the help.

Mark
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  #50  
Old 10-18-2011, 12:14 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRF4665 View Post
Thanks for yet another thorough and thoughtful response Roberto.

Given that I have a new fuel filter and a new fuel pump and zero resultant improvement, I'm beginning to believe that I may not have a fuel delivery issue. I did wash out my old fuel filter after installing the new one and it flowed very clean with seemingly no obstruction. Have saved it for my next fuel filter swap. Have also used about a gallon of diesel during my last two refuels and that has not improved my situation either.

Will try to notch out some time over the next few weekends to go at my intake with carb cleaner and will remove and reinstall all vacuum lines. A buddy swears by Seafoam so I may give that a whirl as well. He claimed that it made one of his older vehicles that was running rough perform as it did many years previous.

It's been a while since I've taken my 535i out to really stretch it's legs due to thrust arms that need to be swapped again (my 'lifetime' Lemforders with 735i bushings made it ~30k miles, sadly). Perhaps it's simply sad that it hasn't been driven hard it quite some time and is letting know...

Will post my progress after I've had some time to poke around a bit further.

Really appreciate the help.

Mark
Sir, are you able to carry out the initiatives mentioned above (including the italian tune up), over the next few days? I would like to wake up this Sunday morning to a lovely post from you about how everything has been sorted out.

Along with seafoam, please use carburetor cleaner directly in the throttle body, then through the brake booster fitting. Then use the sea foam through the brake booster fitting. Then take your car out immediately for that italian tune up....don't mind the smoke that you'll see coming for the first 5-10 minutes. Please follow this sequence one after the other.

So its best to do this during an evening.

Lemforders will not survive hard hits on potholes at any mileage age. You don't have to ask me how i know this.

I just had a thought. Perhaps your coolant temperature sensor (both the one on your radiator and the one that's connected directly to your cylinder head) need to be replaced with new ones. The engine use coolant temperature readings to also decide how to manage the fuel/air mixture.

And double check your codes.

AND DID EVERYONE READ ABOUT HOW HE USED DIESEL IN HIS FUEL TANK TWICE WITH NO PROBLEMS ?????? WOW I'M SO SHOCKED OMG WHAT WAS HE THINKING !!!


lololol Couldn't resist.

NB : The reason there was no improvement despite two treatments was because his fuel system was already clean, in case anyone was wondering.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 10-18-2011 at 12:30 AM.
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