Transfer Case Actuator potential free fix!

Originally Posted by timfitz63

Well done, "pburnett!" It's looking more and more like this quick-fix is a winner!

Thanks guys, glad it seems to be helping! Not bad for a 25 year old, huh?

is there any pictures of the actuator removal / location?

I have 71k on my wife's X3 and got all three of the codes. The shop wants $1350 for the repair. I am quasi-competent in repairs but any visuals would be appreciated.

Pisses me off the shop is also charging almost $250 more for the actual part if I go with replacement than what I can pick up online.

appreciate any insight.

thanks

Originally Posted by dpsaunders

is there any pictures of the actuator removal / location?

I have 71k on my wife's X3 and got all three of the codes. The shop wants $1350 for the repair. I am quasi-competent in repairs but any visuals would be appreciated.

Pisses me off the shop is also charging almost $250 more for the actual part if I go with replacement than what I can pick up online.

appreciate any insight.

thanks

Its only 4 screws to remove it from the transfer case and another 4 screws to remove the
motor. The pictures are in the beginning of this thread they can help lots

I started to have the 4x4,dsc,etc. errors on the E60 530x. That terrible clicking noise after you shutdown the engine...

Is it sounding like this (video).
http://www.kolumbus.fi/~w451491/e60_aani.mp4
This sound comes sometimes, not too often.

If this noise is from transfer box, what the actuator/transfer box is doing after you shut down the engine?

Anyhow, I'm definitely going to open actuator next coming days and see what it has eaten...
I could use 2k€uros for something else than new transfer box.

(thanks to pburnett for a excellent post)

I like the pix and all, but looks like the gear stuck in place and the worm just sat there and ate through it. So not the gearing that caused the issue, but that it seized at some point and the cylindrical gear just chewed it up.

Here is E60 actuator picture, different kind of than beginning of the this thread. Anyway, E60 / 2006 / 530x actuator has metal sprockets. Badly worn (220 000km driven)

http://www.kolumbus.fi/~w451491/e60/neliveto3.jpg

In your case seems to be the actual "worm" the one with damage and not the "gear". It would be worth to research if the part numbers are the same.

Buy your parts online and have the dealer install them. My dealer will install BMW or other quality parts, they did my AC compressor.

I just did this DIY repair, and so far all is working just fine. I put it through its paces, breaking tires loose on dry pavement, therefore loosing traction control just slightly.

I will post again once it's gone through bad weather. Up here in the Pacific Northwest we get ice and snow. We'll see how she does.

I would like to advise on the fix though. Once you have the actuator/servomotor out, you will need to rotate the main gear, full 180 degrees. I thoroughly inspected mine, and the effected area was 1/2 of the gear circumference. Not only could I see the wear, but the other 1/2 of the gear had "fresh" green grease on it. Also, you need to pay very close attention to the gear position when reinstalling the worm gear motor. When you reinstall it, it will cause the main gear to move. Just be very careful.

I'll report back when I have updated news.

Anymore updates on how this fix is working? I am having the same issues and will be tackling it this weekend. 06 with 72K on it. Making the clicking on shut off and dash lights on under hard acceleration. Do you need to reset anything in the ECU/TCU after doing this?

Also, if anyone has a used actuator lying around please PM me, I would be interested in making a stronger gear for these (I am a machinist)

No, you don't have to reset anything with this apparent fix.

Also, all is still working fine with this.

Actuator has been changed, 4x4 works ok now.

That "resistor" / wear indicator. I looked that from old one... I cannot understand how that "inductor?" can measure wear from the plain cover of the motor (on the inside theres no any holes on metal, what could measure rotation or anything?) . Looks a bit like BS to me.

Ok, if it measures the wear from main socket some funny way, but then what is that two wire additional small socket.

I changed out mine a couple of weeks ago and wasn't that tough at all. Couple of bolts were hard to get to but other than that, all is well. No slip on acceleration and no warning lights. Good luck.

Originally Posted by jengstro

Actuator has been changed, 4x4 works ok now.

That "resistor" / wear indicator. I looked that from old one... I cannot understand how that "inductor?" can measure wear from the plain cover of the motor (on the inside theres no any holes on metal, what could measure rotation or anything?) . Looks a bit like BS to me.

Ok, if it measures the wear from main socket some funny way, but then what is that two wire additional small socket.

I am not sure exactly how it is set up, but it measures wear on the fluid through resistance change. As fluid wears and pucks up contaminants, you can use this to measure wear.

I don't know if it flows through sensor or if there is another pickup somewhere in the case.

Had the dreaded 3 lights on the dash. Just did the fix. Only time will tell if it works! BTW, I don't know who said it was an easy DIY but I had a hell of a time. Once the actuator is off, it's true it is an easy fix but getting those damn 4 bolts off to take it down took me forever. Hint to help you guys out, use a 1/4 inch wratchet, a long extension, a universal joint and a slim and short 8 mm socket. Had to take 2 bolts off the heat shield and bend it out of the way. For those who don't have access to a lift, my sympathies!

I can't believe this little actuator costs over 800 bucks! What a rip off. Someone definitely has to start refurbishing these units cause from what I could tell, THEY ARE ALL DOOMED TO FAIL, it's only a matter of time and milage!

FYI, I have a 2007 3.0si.

And BTW, I live in Canada, where it snows like hell in winter, so I'll keep you guys posted on the effectiveness of this fix in extreme driving conditions, but I'll have to wait for it to snow, which should be in about one month.

Have fun.

Originally Posted by stedistang

Had the dreaded 3 lights on the dash. Just did the fix. Only time will tell if it works! BTW, I don't know who said it was an easy DIY but I had a hell of a time. Once the actuator is off, it's true it is an easy fix but getting those damn 4 bolts off to take it down took me forever. Hint to help you guys out, use a 1/4 inch wratchet, a long extension, a universal joint and a slim and short 8 mm socket. Had to take 2 bolts off the heat shield and bend it out of the way. For those who don't have access to a lift, my sympathies!

I can't believe this little actuator costs over 800 bucks! What a rip off. Someone definitely has to start refurbishing these units cause from what I could tell, THEY ARE ALL DOOMED TO FAIL, it's only a matter of time and milage!

FYI, I have a 2007 3.0si.

And BTW, I live in quebec Canada, where it snows like hell in winter, so I'll keep you guys posted on the effectiveness of this fix in extreme driving conditions, but I'll have to wait for it to snow, which should be in about one month.

Have fun.

How many miles? I have the same year.

Originally Posted by madurodave

How many miles? I have the same year.

± 80 000 miles

Originally Posted by stedistang

± 80 000 miles

Wow - I am almost at 103000. So far ok, but looks like something I should at least look at next summer. Along with the ball joints!

Did you ever change the transfer case fluid before it went bad? Being a plastic gear, probably would notmake a difference. Just curious.

Originally Posted by madurodave

I am not sure exactly how it is set up, but it measures wear on the fluid through resistance change. As fluid wears and pucks up contaminants, you can use this to measure wear.

I don't know if it flows through sensor or if there is another pickup somewhere in the case.

The "fluid" (transfer case oil) does not come to motor side at all, its isolated ;-)

Originally Posted by jengstro

The "fluid" (transfer case oil) does not come to motor side at all, its isolated ;-)

Thanks. Thought it was in oil area.

BMW parts sites call it fluid, so that is the term I used (even though bottle says oil).

Originally Posted by jengstro

That "resistor" / wear indicator. I looked that from old one... I cannot understand how that "inductor?" can measure wear from the plain cover of the motor (on the inside theres no any holes on metal, what could measure rotation or anything?)

My understanding is that some part of the xDrive system uses the resistance detected in operating the wet clutches inside the transfer case to indicate the viscosity or general condition of the gear oil/fluid.

If the pressure required deviates from a certain range, it is concluded that the fluid is degraded.

Nothing to do with the actuator which just has grease in it.

(Measuring electrical conductivity of the fluid would surely be too complex a solution, even for BMW engineers.)

I was able to locate a few used actuators with ± 50 000 miles. Asking price $450. 2 month warranty included. Any takers?

Originally Posted by stedistang

I was able to locate a few used actuators with ± 50 000 miles. Asking price $450. 2 month warranty included. Any takers?

I thought about that route too but if they are going out at 65-80K thats not much of a deal.

Originally Posted by dgreen78

... Also, if anyone has a used actuator lying around please PM me, I would be interested in making a stronger gear for these (I am a machinist)

Been out of the loop for the better part of a week.

Uh, has anyone offered to send this nice gentleman one of their stripped-out gears ("pburnett," I think you had one)...? He wants to produce some stronger (presumably metal) ones for us...!

Originally Posted by timfitz63

Been out of the loop for the better part of a week.

Uh, has anyone offered to send this nice gentleman one of their stripped-out gears ("pburnett," I think you had one)...? He wants to produce some stronger (presumably metal) ones for us...!

Opps, had been away from the board for a little bit. I am PM'ing with him to see if we can make it happen.

The big challenge would be how to get the housing open without destroying it to get to the gear to replace it. Perhaps we can start thinking about that.