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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki |
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#1
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Help!
Is there ANYBODY here that REALLY knows what they are talking about!!!!! I've been taking advice from people here that just keep GUESSING at MY EXPENSE!!! I've sunk over $1,000.00 into my car this year WITHOUT fixing ANY of the problems!!! I'm PRETY PISSED RIGHT NOW!!!!!
This last IGNORANT GUESS by everyone is...My heater and defroster motor quit working...Then it started working again. It's been some time and just died again a couple weeks ago. I asked people what would do that and everyone hopped on the bandwagon saying it is the blower motor. Some said the FSU. I called BavAuto and they said the blower motor. NOBODY seems to know how to TEST the DAMN THING!!!!!! SO...I ordered one and it came in...DEFECTIVE!!! I ordered another...Just got it in...ALSO DEFECTIVE ( the mounts are spotwelded on crooked) I was finally able to get one in and put everything back together, turned it on and it worked for about 45 seconds and stopped!!!!!!! I"M F'ING PISSED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What the Hell could be the problem!!!
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#2
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Wow! You get a bad part and attack people on the board who were genuinely trying to help and who used their valuable time to do so. Perhaps you need another source of advice. I'm guessing that it might be a bit sparse here in the future.
Good luck |
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#3
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Stick to BMW FSU.
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#4
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I don't thing Wasting $1,000.00 was helping...thank you very much
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#5
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CN90...Is there a way to TEST it as I DON'T want to throw anymore money out the window buying parts on a guess...
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If you can read this, Thank a teacher. If you're reading it in English, Thank a Veteran |
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#6
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You can test the blower itself by just hooking it up to a 12v battery. FSU is a very common failure point however I don't know of a way to really test it on it's own. Just the symptoms. And as he said stick to OEM. People have had a lot of issues with after market.
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2001 540i - Orient Blue M5 bumpers, wheels, mirrors S/C, water/air IC A1 Headers, Random Technology Cats, Eissenmann Exhaust 3.15 diff, evosport power pullies Koni Sports, Eibach Springs/Sway Bars |
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#7
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Yeah well you get what you paid for - I don't think anyone would suggest that people trying to diagnose your car via the internet would ever be a substitute for a decent mechanic, or an owner knew what they were doing...
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#8
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Agreed. People on here give their experiences which is certainly something. But every car is different you need to take the advice and figure it your yourself.
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2001 540i - Orient Blue M5 bumpers, wheels, mirrors S/C, water/air IC A1 Headers, Random Technology Cats, Eissenmann Exhaust 3.15 diff, evosport power pullies Koni Sports, Eibach Springs/Sway Bars |
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#9
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stop cryin'..............if you cannot afford to fix it, then do not buy it.....meaning, if you cannot take it to a certified BMW dealer to get it professionally diagnosed, Then do not try to take advise from people over the internet. Granted, there are many of us that know how to troubleshoot problems, but it is extremely hard to correctly diagnose anything electrical without "hands on" testing.
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#10
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What?
I've been reading this board for some time and cannot remember seing anything so rediculous. You guys are awesome for being so controlled in your good natured responses.
Merry Christmas to you! |
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#11
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People suggested all sorts of repairs when I was having surges at stoplights and rough starts only when warm. Some repairs would have been extremely expensive.Not 1 poster suggested the correct solution, which ended up being the coolant temperature sensor, a $20 part plus an hour of labor from the mechanic. But there is no 'blame' to the other posters, in fact I thank them for their time spent trying to help me!
The OP is projecting anger and probably will realize once he cools down. No problem, we've all been horribly frustrated before. I have wanted to punch walls and throw stuff countless times working on the car or my computer. Take a deep breath and crack a beer. Take brica's advice and as always, stick with OEM parts except when they've been vetted by this forum. |
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#12
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Quote:
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If you can read this, Thank a teacher. If you're reading it in English, Thank a Veteran |
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#13
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I agree. The responses are an admirable display of restraint.
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BMW--giving new meaning to the phrase "disposable income." |
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#14
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That's what I mean...You say something and you get DIM wits like Sleep Walker that comes back with something STUPID like DUH...if you can't aford it don't buy a BMW yuk yuk yuk....Ya, sorry I don't make millions off of food stamps like you
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If you can read this, Thank a teacher. If you're reading it in English, Thank a Veteran |
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#15
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Buy a Civic
/thread |
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#16
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Yes, Most are...and I thank them...I'm very mechanically inclined but not electrically and the economy has put a hurting on me and I can't afford to pay for someone to do my electrical work right now and as for not owning a BMW...well, it would cost a little more to get rid of it and buy another vehicle right now so that's out of the question also.
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If you can read this, Thank a teacher. If you're reading it in English, Thank a Veteran |
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#17
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Quote:
__________________
If you can read this, Thank a teacher. If you're reading it in English, Thank a Veteran |
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#18
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I have been reading and posting here for a while and also find that there is a lot of bum info given.
You can test the blower by unplugging the connector on the FSU and jumping a few pins together, this will make the blower run at full speed. FSU connector pinout is this: Pin 1 to blower motor Pin 2 to 12 volts Pin 3 to 0-5 VDC (this is the speed control input from the HVAC panel) Pin 4 to ground Pin 5 to blower motor If you jump pin 1 and 2 together and also pins 4 and 5 together the motor will run if it is good. Just make sure you don't touch pin 3. You don't need to have the key on to check the blower motor, 12 volts is always at the FSU connector. If you need more help, PM me. Your old motor can also be tested. |
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#19
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your fault, not ours....
[QUOTE=PBrods;6515859]I'm not crying..I'm spitting on YOUR stupidity...[
Why is it our fault your car is messed up? maybe your poor problem descriptions lead to a wrong solution? Take your car to the dealer and ask them to fix it if you want a sure thing. DO NOT soil yourself and go on a pissing rant over the people here who do nothing but try to help other BMW owners. Why did you just order the part without looking into it yourself? I wouldnt just take anyones word for it. Were all here to receive and share advice and information, Mis information can be produced. Its YOUR job to check the info you receive here and make sure its correct. before YOU order YOUR product for YOUR car with YOUR money... seems like common sense BTW its your muffler bearings that are causing your heater to not work. and check your blinker fluid levels as well while your at it Cheers-
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#20
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JimLev, I read back through the OP's earlier posts, and you had suggested earlier that he check out the FSU. Somehow, BavAuto apparently convinced him to get a new blower, which he was unhappy with. It sounds like this is a continuation of that problem, and it makes me think his anger is misdirected. Of course, judging from the totality of his posts, it sounds like he has plenty of anger to go around. By the way, I found no advice in any thread that should have resulted in his sinking "over $1,000" into his car.
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BMW--giving new meaning to the phrase "disposable income." |
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#21
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Quote:
Is that something you fell for moron...lol Just proves my theory there are MORONS on here...DUH...I'm Nline6 and I'm a MORON
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If you can read this, Thank a teacher. If you're reading it in English, Thank a Veteran |
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#22
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With that $1,000 you spent buying parts that did'nt work you could have spent $99 at the dealership for proper diagnostics. Your problem would be solved, and you could have saved some money. So don't spit on our helpful advice spit on your bad choices.
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Dinan F&R strut tower brace, M5 F&R sway bars, Koni Sports, Eibach springs, Dinan stage 1 engine and trans software, Zionsville cooling kit, resonator delete, Dinan exhaust, AFE cai, 18' style 5's, 235/40/18 275/35/18, and some small cosmetics, with more to come. |
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#23
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so let call this thread ...
Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MORONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cheers- Last edited by champaign777; 12-21-2011 at 06:42 PM. |
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#24
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Bobmac, I should have also put blame on BavAuto too, they know that the FSU failures are plentyful. I'm on my 3rd FSU, never had to do anything with the blower motor.
I wonder if they are pushing high price parts over low price parts knowing that after putting in a blower motor the custom won't want to take it out to return it. |
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#25
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Quote:
__________________
Dinan F&R strut tower brace, M5 F&R sway bars, Koni Sports, Eibach springs, Dinan stage 1 engine and trans software, Zionsville cooling kit, resonator delete, Dinan exhaust, AFE cai, 18' style 5's, 235/40/18 275/35/18, and some small cosmetics, with more to come. |
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