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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #26  
Old 12-20-2011, 11:14 AM
DSXMachina's Avatar
DSXMachina DSXMachina is offline
Bimmerdex 7.4!
Location: New Hampshire
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
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Mein Auto: 335i E92 TiAg 6MT ED
Don't tell anyone about that special pump cycle test I let you in on. It's secret mechanic stuff.
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  #27  
Old 12-20-2011, 05:22 PM
gerrg gerrg is offline
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Location: Dallas
 
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haha, no problem. mums the word.

So i drove home today from work and set the climate control at 76 and set the fan speed on auto. after about 1-2 minutes i started feeling warm air coming out of the top vents. The vents facing directly toward me either had no air coming out, or slightly cooler air. The warm air stayed on for about 5 minutes and then started getting cooler. I then came to stop light and noticed my radiator fan was running at max speed, so i stopped and checked the radiator temp and it was blowing out cold air, so no circulation through the radiator. I turned the heat off at this point and drove the rest of the way home (about 5 minutes). i got out and checked the engine, and it was cool enough to touch, and the radiator fan wasn't on.

Then while the car was running i turned the heater on max and then loosened the bleed screw a few times to let some bubbles out. Then shut the car off.
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  #28  
Old 12-21-2011, 05:18 AM
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DSXMachina DSXMachina is offline
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Location: New Hampshire
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 11,156
Mein Auto: 335i E92 TiAg 6MT ED
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerrg View Post
haha, no problem. mums the word.

So i drove home today from work and set the climate control at 76 and set the fan speed on auto. after about 1-2 minutes i started feeling warm air coming out of the top vents. The vents facing directly toward me either had no air coming out, or slightly cooler air. The warm air stayed on for about 5 minutes and then started getting cooler. I then came to stop light and noticed my radiator fan was running at max speed, so i stopped and checked the radiator temp and it was blowing out cold air, so no circulation through the radiator. I turned the heat off at this point and drove the rest of the way home (about 5 minutes). i got out and checked the engine, and it was cool enough to touch, and the radiator fan wasn't on.

Then while the car was running i turned the heater on max and then loosened the bleed screw a few times to let some bubbles out. Then shut the car off.
What we would do next is check for power to the pump when it is not on. If there's power you know it's the pump. In your case all the evidence points to the pump and you'd take a calculated risk in changing it. As others have posted, and my internet checks confirm, it is usually the pump. Did you check for codes?
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  #29  
Old 12-21-2011, 10:51 AM
gerrg gerrg is offline
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Location: Dallas
 
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No, i didn't get the codes. i got the car diagnosed at the bmw dealer, but they didn't give me any codes (this was done before you mentioned them) I might be able to call them back and get them, but i think right now i'll just go ahead and order the pump and see if that fixes stuff. I was going to change the Tstat anyways, so i guess i'll just do both at the same time. My guess is i should have parts by next monday or so, so that'll give me a few days to change them. If you have any other ideas, let me know. Thanks a bunch for your help, and i'll let you know how it goes!
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  #30  
Old 12-21-2011, 12:39 PM
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DSXMachina DSXMachina is offline
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Location: New Hampshire
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerrg View Post
No, i didn't get the codes. i got the car diagnosed at the bmw dealer, but they didn't give me any codes (this was done before you mentioned them) I might be able to call them back and get them, but i think right now i'll just go ahead and order the pump and see if that fixes stuff. I was going to change the Tstat anyways, so i guess i'll just do both at the same time. My guess is i should have parts by next monday or so, so that'll give me a few days to change them. If you have any other ideas, let me know. Thanks a bunch for your help, and i'll let you know how it goes!
Do you have the manual so you know how to go about the job? If not, I'll pm you the info. as an attached file.
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  #31  
Old 12-21-2011, 12:56 PM
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Zooks527 Zooks527 is offline
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Location: Mansfield, MA
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSXMachina View Post
Do you have the manual so you know how to go about the job? If not, I'll pm you the info. as an attached file.
Come on! There's a standard procedure for this.

1 ) Have a beer.
2 ) Go down cellar, gather tools you expect to need.
3 ) Have another beer.
4 ) Go out to car, locate part that needs to be replaced.
5 ) Go to have another beer, accidentally spill it into engine compartment.
6 ) Swear.
7 ) Apologize to neighbor for swearing in front of 5-year-old.
8 ) Have another beer.
9 ) Start to remove part, realize you're missing the right wrench.
10 ) Swear quietly.
11 ) Go look for wrench in cellar, can't find it.
12 ) Swear loudly in cellar.
13 ) Have another beer.
14 ) Use slip joint pliers on stuck nut.
15 ) Round off nut.
16 ) Storm into cellar, get Vise-Grips.
17 ) Guzzle another beer on way back to driveway.
18 ) Place Vise-Grips on nut, lean in with all weight, hit release pin on Grips, remove all skin from knuckles.
19 ) Swear again, not giving a damn about neighbor's pain-in-the-ass kid.
20 ) Stand up too fast, hitting head on inside of hood.
21 ) Storm into house, swearing continuously.
22 ) Decide to go lie down for a bit.
23 ) Wife calls garage while you're asleep.


At least, that seems to be the standard at my house.
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Last edited by Zooks527; 12-21-2011 at 01:09 PM.
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  #32  
Old 12-22-2011, 07:52 AM
gerrg gerrg is offline
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Location: Dallas
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSXMachina View Post
Do you have the manual so you know how to go about the job? If not, I'll pm you the info. as an attached file.
No, I don't have the manual. I was going to use a modified version of zooks procedure, mixed with some DIY pictures here on the forum here, but if you could send me that, that would make things a lot easier. Thanks a bunch!
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  #33  
Old 12-22-2011, 08:19 AM
matts335 matts335 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Virginia
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 433
Mein Auto: 2009 335xdrive (E90)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooks527 View Post
Come on! There's a standard procedure for this.

1 ) Have a beer.
2 ) Go down cellar, gather tools you expect to need.
3 ) Have another beer.
4 ) Go out to car, locate part that needs to be replaced.
5 ) Go to have another beer, accidentally spill it into engine compartment.
6 ) Swear.
7 ) Apologize to neighbor for swearing in front of 5-year-old.
8 ) Have another beer.
9 ) Start to remove part, realize you're missing the right wrench.
10 ) Swear quietly.
11 ) Go look for wrench in cellar, can't find it.
12 ) Swear loudly in cellar.
13 ) Have another beer.
14 ) Use slip joint pliers on stuck nut.
15 ) Round off nut.
16 ) Storm into cellar, get Vise-Grips.
17 ) Guzzle another beer on way back to driveway.
18 ) Place Vise-Grips on nut, lean in with all weight, hit release pin on Grips, remove all skin from knuckles.
19 ) Swear again, not giving a damn about neighbor's pain-in-the-ass kid.
20 ) Stand up too fast, hitting head on inside of hood.
21 ) Storm into house, swearing continuously.
22 ) Decide to go lie down for a bit.
23 ) Wife calls garage while you're asleep.


At least, that seems to be the standard at my house.
Nice! If I were ever to attempt my own repairs, this is surely how it would go. :-) Although, I would probably up the beer intake just to be safe.
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  #34  
Old 12-24-2011, 03:46 PM
gerrg gerrg is offline
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Location: Dallas
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 25
Mein Auto: 325i
got all parts on order, should get everything on tuesday. fingers crossed.
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  #35  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:50 PM
gerrg gerrg is offline
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Location: Dallas
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 25
Mein Auto: 325i
Just an update. Got my parts in last week and changed the water pump and Tstat. Since then, my heater has worked just fine and my car hasn't had any issues. Thanks a bunch for everyone's help with this! It is definitely appreciated!
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  #36  
Old 06-14-2016, 01:46 PM
wiscokid81 wiscokid81 is offline
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Location: Eau Claire
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 2011 335i xdive
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSXMachina View Post
Interesting. I like these kinds of problems.
I assume you have checked your coolant level?

Tomorrow, before you drive the car for the first time I want you to squeeze the upper radiator hose several times. Get a good idea of it's resistance.
Then start the engine and let it idle. Do not turn on either the ac or the heater. After exactly three minutes squeeze the upper hose again. How does it feel in comparison to when you first did it (hardness, not temperature)?
Let the engine run for 10 minutes. Now feel the temperature of the upper radiator hose and the lower radiator hose. How do they compare?
After you do the 10 minute run, while the engine is still running, slowly remove the cooling system cap. If coolant starts to gush out, tighten the cap. Did coolant gush out?

Be careful dong these checks, you've got a fan which could activate at any time, and if defective, a cooling system which could be under high pressure and/or high temperature.
Dsxmachina I have an interesting problem I was wondering if you could shed some light on? I have a 2011 335i and my car overheats only when I try to use my heater, I've watched the coolant temp (the one where you have to manually put the code in) and without my heater on I can drive all day and my temp reads on average 108c, goes from 103c-110c but usually stays around 105-108.. When I try and use my heater it reads 85c-90c for about a half hour then instantly shoots up to around 130c and puts my car into limp mode.. If I pull over and shut my heat off and restart my car it instantly drops back down to 85-90c and drives just fine and the temp rises back to the normal 105-108c while driving any distance.. When I do try to use my heater it heats fine and never gets cold, I don't have fluid loss and I tried the air purge thing and the pump runs normal purging fluid bit the radiator fan is on max or once I think it cycled on/off over and over.. Is this still a case of water pump failer or something else?
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  #37  
Old 06-14-2016, 02:07 PM
gerrg gerrg is offline
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Location: Dallas
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 25
Mein Auto: 325i
I had the exact same problem. I could run my car all day long without issue, but once I turned my heater on, my car would overheat soon after. Even if I turned my heater on for just a couple seconds and then back off. I think my water pump actually stopped moving when I turned my heater on, which is why it was over heating. I say it stopped because I would feel the top radiator hose and it would feel like fluid was going through it before I turned my heater on, and it felt like no fluid was going through it Afterwards. My machanice took a look at it as well, he doesn't work on bmw's but he came to the same conclusion also (he didn't charge me either for looking at it :-) ) . The solution? I had to change the electric water pump which is close to the bottom of the engine. There's a couple good guides on how to change this part. I think the water pump was about $400 or so.

Tl;dr

I replaced my electric water pump and that fixed the problem.
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  #38  
Old 06-14-2016, 02:18 PM
wiscokid81 wiscokid81 is offline
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Location: Eau Claire
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 2011 335i xdive
Seems then no matter the issue (and seems to be plenty of different symptoms) it always goes back to that pesky water pump/t-stat lol..
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  #39  
Old 06-14-2016, 02:24 PM
wiscokid81 wiscokid81 is offline
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Location: Eau Claire
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 2011 335i xdive
I just thought it was weird that my coolant temp went from 90c to 130c in like 4 sec with my heater on then shutting the car off then turning it back on right away it went back down to 90c pretty much instantly ***129300;
Thought maybe a faulty sensor when I turned the heater on cause I've never seen anything heat up that fast and cool down that fast before and the car didn't seem overheated. Say a sensor is faulty, could it read high and shut your car down even though it's really not actually high you think?
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  #40  
Old 06-15-2016, 11:52 AM
gerrg gerrg is offline
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Location: Dallas
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 25
Mein Auto: 325i
a faulty sensor might do that.... but to me it doesn't sound like the sensor. The sensor would have to be affected by something when you turn your heater on, and I don't think that's super likely. Sorry to say, but it still sounds like it's the water pump.
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  #41  
Old 06-15-2016, 11:56 AM
gerrg gerrg is offline
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Location: Dallas
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 25
Mein Auto: 325i
I would try holding on to the top radiator hose after letting your car run for a bit so you can get a feel for what it feels like when there is fluid running through it, maybe give the hose a few squeezes to see how firm it is. Then have turn you're heater on and see if the fluid stop flowing or if the hose is any softer/firmer (better yet, have someone else turn the heater on for you). That's what we did with my car and every time i turned the heater on, the flow stopped through the radiator hose. I think when i tried to change the water pump and Tstat myself it took about 4 hours, but most of that was just double checking things and reading through the guide online.
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