Operation .5 liters per cylinder.

I gotta say it won't work Chip.

I didn't see anything in there about M50TUB25 heads, maybe I should have been clearer, as of now I'm only replacing the rotating assembly.

Dang it, the S54 cams are so much cheaper than any of the S50 cams I've seen, and I don't have to wait around to find a set .

S50 cams are often $250-300 on Bimmerforums. Just be patient and keep an eye on the classifieds.

As far as the impact, you'll have to get a very good strong one. My impact wasn't able to get the crank bolt off my S52 block. It's not that strong of one, but it is rated for 300+ ft lbs (it probably doesn't do that much). Btw, what are you using to hold the crankshaft in place?

good stuff man.. subscribed

From what i read Chip, is that you can use m54 cams

think you have to grind/cut one of them (exhaust?) so it fits into the M50TU head

Originally Posted by Dino1394

From what i read Chip, is that you can use m54 cams

think you have to grind/cut one of them (exhaust?) so it fits into the M50TU head

yeah, i seem to think that i saw this on here as well. can't remember where, though. maybe in one of the links on hakkenTT's thread??

i also did some research on the m50/s50 and the head is the same part number, so i would assume that the cams would have the same journal specs and fit, just stick out farther on the exaust side where the vc & timing cover won't match up.

if the timing chain will line up, just grind down the rest of the camshaft nub to fit.

seems to make sense to me...



df

I jammed a pair of tongs and a rail road spring clip that I forged out flat through the flex plate and then tied them to the block with a peice of 1" tubular nylon webbing rated at 21KN, so far it's held.
I guess I might try to find some M54B30 cams since they're probably the cheapest option.

Sent from my FroyoEris using Bimmer

Originally Posted by miles_trail

I jammed a pair of tongs and a rail road spring clip that I forged out flat through the flex plate and then tied them to the block with a peice of 1" tubular nylon webbing rated at 21KN, so far it's held.
I guess I might try to find some M54B30 cams since they're probably the cheapest option.

Sent from my FroyoEris using Bimmer

Damn, that's a little more complex than just sticking a branch in there.

And I finally got that damn bolt out, had to go to Sears and get a Craftsman breaker bar, tried hitting it with a 4 lbs sledge, didn't work so I put it back on the porch and built the 2X4 frame back, then I put the 10' pipe on the breaker bar and jerked it a couple times and it came loose.

Damn, that thing must have been on there really freakin tightly.

Chip, you can take the busted bar back to HF and get another one (or maybe your money back?). I recognize the design of it...got one just like it.

A note about removing stuck fasteners: The way you finally got that bolt out is the right way to loosen almost any stuck fastener. As long as the wrench fits tightly, a quick snap with as much force as you can muster works a lot better than an extended pull.

Yeah, I'll take it back to Lowe's in the morning, just like I did with the last one I broke.... on tuesday..... .

I truly don't miss the days of working on farm equipment needing 3/4" or 1" drive tools. That needed a lot of four letter words.

The first time I took the wheels off my e36, I needed a 3/4" impact to get a few of the lugs off. That's normal, right?

Originally Posted by jonesin

I truly don't miss the days of working on farm equipment needing 3/4" or 1" drive tools. That needed a lot of four letter words.

'ouch'
'oops'
'uh-oh!'
'nooo!'
'help!'

yep, thems all four letter words alright...



df

Subscribed I'm very interested on your results best of luck

Tonight I'll have the M54 completely disassembled, now the only thing holding me back is my inability to get my truck started .

good luck with the truck.


And yes we took a branch and jammed it on the crank LOOL

came right off with 2 people holding the block and 3 people pulling the bar in top of the craftsman half inch ratchet.

Alright, every thing is apart, bagged, tagged and drenched in WD-40 waiting to go in the M50.

Pics:





















Who knew that an M44 head lines up perfectly with the first four cylinders of an M54

Nice. Do you think you could measure the diameter of the rod journals for me? I can't seem to find the specs for the crank online.

Yeah man, just as soon as I get a micrometer .

Cool, thanks.

Originally Posted by miles_trail

Yeah man, just as soon as I get a micrometer .

Chip, are you shopping for mics? I would suggest pawn shops for used. There are tons of them out there these days. The machinist trade took a huge hit when the economy went sour (ask how I know). Stick with Brown and Sharpe, Starrett or Mitutoyo for used ones. The ones Harbor Freight sells are OK, too, believe it or not. I have two sets of those, one set of Starretts and one set of Mitutoyos. The HF Chinese-made ones hold accuracy just as good as the higher priced name-brand ones (didn't use to be that way).

I just got one at HF on sale for $15. It was not the lowest quality one they had, and it seems to be pretty good so far, but how would I know?