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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 01-27-2012, 11:03 AM
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I gotta say it won't work Chip.
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  #27  
Old 01-27-2012, 11:06 AM
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I didn't see anything in there about M50TUB25 heads, maybe I should have been clearer, as of now I'm only replacing the rotating assembly.
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How do you outcrazy a dude that lifts his engines without a hoist?

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  #28  
Old 01-27-2012, 11:09 AM
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Dang it, the S54 cams are so much cheaper than any of the S50 cams I've seen, and I don't have to wait around to find a set .
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How do you outcrazy a dude that lifts his engines without a hoist?

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  #29  
Old 01-27-2012, 12:55 PM
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S50 cams are often $250-300 on Bimmerforums. Just be patient and keep an eye on the classifieds.

As far as the impact, you'll have to get a very good strong one. My impact wasn't able to get the crank bolt off my S52 block. It's not that strong of one, but it is rated for 300+ ft lbs (it probably doesn't do that much). Btw, what are you using to hold the crankshaft in place?
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  #30  
Old 01-27-2012, 01:10 PM
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good stuff man.. subscribed
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  #31  
Old 01-27-2012, 01:55 PM
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From what i read Chip, is that you can use m54 cams

think you have to grind/cut one of them (exhaust?) so it fits into the M50TU head
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  #32  
Old 01-27-2012, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino1394 View Post
From what i read Chip, is that you can use m54 cams

think you have to grind/cut one of them (exhaust?) so it fits into the M50TU head
yeah, i seem to think that i saw this on here as well. can't remember where, though. maybe in one of the links on hakkenTT's thread??

i also did some research on the m50/s50 and the head is the same part number, so i would assume that the cams would have the same journal specs and fit, just stick out farther on the exaust side where the vc & timing cover won't match up.

if the timing chain will line up, just grind down the rest of the camshaft nub to fit.

seems to make sense to me...



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  #33  
Old 01-27-2012, 03:27 PM
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I jammed a pair of tongs and a rail road spring clip that I forged out flat through the flex plate and then tied them to the block with a peice of 1" tubular nylon webbing rated at 21KN, so far it's held.
I guess I might try to find some M54B30 cams since they're probably the cheapest option.

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How do you outcrazy a dude that lifts his engines without a hoist?

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  #34  
Old 01-27-2012, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miles_trail View Post
I jammed a pair of tongs and a rail road spring clip that I forged out flat through the flex plate and then tied them to the block with a peice of 1" tubular nylon webbing rated at 21KN, so far it's held.
I guess I might try to find some M54B30 cams since they're probably the cheapest option.

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Damn, that's a little more complex than just sticking a branch in there.
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  #35  
Old 01-27-2012, 08:50 PM
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And I finally got that damn bolt out, had to go to Sears and get a Craftsman breaker bar, tried hitting it with a 4 lbs sledge, didn't work so I put it back on the porch and built the 2X4 frame back, then I put the 10' pipe on the breaker bar and jerked it a couple times and it came loose.
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How do you outcrazy a dude that lifts his engines without a hoist?

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  #36  
Old 01-27-2012, 08:52 PM
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Damn, that thing must have been on there really freakin tightly.
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  #37  
Old 01-27-2012, 08:59 PM
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Chip, you can take the busted bar back to HF and get another one (or maybe your money back?). I recognize the design of it...got one just like it.

A note about removing stuck fasteners: The way you finally got that bolt out is the right way to loosen almost any stuck fastener. As long as the wrench fits tightly, a quick snap with as much force as you can muster works a lot better than an extended pull.
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  #38  
Old 01-27-2012, 09:37 PM
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Yeah, I'll take it back to Lowe's in the morning, just like I did with the last one I broke.... on tuesday..... .
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How do you outcrazy a dude that lifts his engines without a hoist?

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  #39  
Old 01-27-2012, 09:42 PM
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I truly don't miss the days of working on farm equipment needing 3/4" or 1" drive tools. That needed a lot of four letter words.
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

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  #40  
Old 01-27-2012, 10:35 PM
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The first time I took the wheels off my e36, I needed a 3/4" impact to get a few of the lugs off. That's normal, right?
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  #41  
Old 01-28-2012, 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jonesin View Post
I truly don't miss the days of working on farm equipment needing 3/4" or 1" drive tools. That needed a lot of four letter words.
'ouch'
'oops'
'uh-oh!'
'nooo!'
'help!'

yep, thems all four letter words alright...



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  #42  
Old 01-28-2012, 10:36 AM
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Subscribed I'm very interested on your results best of luck
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  #43  
Old 01-28-2012, 11:14 AM
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Tonight I'll have the M54 completely disassembled, now the only thing holding me back is my inability to get my truck started .
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  #44  
Old 01-28-2012, 12:54 PM
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good luck with the truck.


And yes we took a branch and jammed it on the crank LOOL

came right off with 2 people holding the block and 3 people pulling the bar in top of the craftsman half inch ratchet.
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  #45  
Old 01-28-2012, 08:41 PM
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Alright, every thing is apart, bagged, tagged and drenched in WD-40 waiting to go in the M50.

Pics:





















Who knew that an M44 head lines up perfectly with the first four cylinders of an M54

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How do you outcrazy a dude that lifts his engines without a hoist?

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  #46  
Old 01-28-2012, 08:43 PM
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Nice. Do you think you could measure the diameter of the rod journals for me? I can't seem to find the specs for the crank online.
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  #47  
Old 01-28-2012, 08:54 PM
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Yeah man, just as soon as I get a micrometer .
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How do you outcrazy a dude that lifts his engines without a hoist?

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  #48  
Old 01-28-2012, 09:02 PM
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Cool, thanks.
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  #49  
Old 01-28-2012, 10:27 PM
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Yeah man, just as soon as I get a micrometer .
Chip, are you shopping for mics? I would suggest pawn shops for used. There are tons of them out there these days. The machinist trade took a huge hit when the economy went sour (ask how I know). Stick with Brown and Sharpe, Starrett or Mitutoyo for used ones. The ones Harbor Freight sells are OK, too, believe it or not. I have two sets of those, one set of Starretts and one set of Mitutoyos. The HF Chinese-made ones hold accuracy just as good as the higher priced name-brand ones (didn't use to be that way).
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13
buying a ratty example (of a BMW) is a parasitic relationship.(and you ain't the mosquito) 7pilot

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #50  
Old 01-28-2012, 10:48 PM
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I just got one at HF on sale for $15. It was not the lowest quality one they had, and it seems to be pretty good so far, but how would I know?
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