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E21 (1975 - 1983)
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#1
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Clutch Fluid Hose
Hi i am new to this but i am in need of some advise/help on how to reconnect the clutch fluid hose back to the_____ i dont know what its called but theres a pic attached to help out. if needed info about the car its a 1982 320i 5Speed. i think its been leaking from this spot too. it looked as if the hose was epoxied on. im not sure if theres a leak anywhere else but thats the first to try starting the easiest. i had to fill up the Reservoir more than 3 times in a month of driving.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...fluidhose.jpg/ ![]() Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
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#2
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As an Update to this in case anyone may have the same problem i figured out a temporary fix to this. originally there's supposed to be a rubber stopper thing on the tube to help keep it pushed inside that bushing there. well was epoxied on before and im doing it again since at a local auto-shop they couldn't tell me much to get that piece since i wanted to do it right i am using VersaChem Steel Weld Epoxy. it indicates Super High Strength 2600 psi so in hopes to this its enough to stand the pressure for the fluid to pass through. there is a pic attached. gotta make sure the hose with the lip at the end is fully in first. was a pain to get in but with a little spit to lube it and a little wiggle and push with rubber gloves for better grip it got it with ease.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...01320x990.jpg/ ![]() Uploaded with ImageShack.us Last edited by Axuise; 02-02-2012 at 01:46 PM. |
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#3
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This tube is not pressurised at all - it is the fluid feed from the resivior (sorry about the spelling). The pressure pipe is the steel one with nut fitting. If you are getting pressure to push the pipe out then the cylinder is defective. I don't see how it would pressurise only return fluid to the pipe which is open to atmosphire (effectivly). If the pipe is pulling out it has been routed incorrectly, damaged or is the wrong one.
__________________
Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two. Current: E23 735i; E30 318i; E32 735iL; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman. Previous: E21 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
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#4
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hey thnx for the advice.
since then other things have been happening but not with the reservoir. but one main concern i am trying to focus on is a leak in the rear driver side wheel. but ill have to make a new thread in a month or so as i am having trouble finding one already focused on that issue.
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#5
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A slave cylinder leak? Rebuild or replace it. A pipe leak could be a split or rusting. A flexible leak - replace it.
__________________
Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two. Current: E23 735i; E30 318i; E32 735iL; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman. Previous: E21 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
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#6
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Ill check it out
i haven't taken the wheel or anything off yet. im just a person that will read and read until i go for it. the how to's and do not's etc.. whats new to me on these wheels are the cotter pins. an easy way to take them off? if there's a tool for them i will get one. btw i thank you for helping me as this is my first and only car. i have fun wrenching on this car
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#7
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A flat blade screwdriver and a needle nose plier is all you need to pull the cotter pin, just straighten the pin as much as possible then pull it out, sometimes you have to pry to get it started (Thats what the screwdrivers for). I'd replace it with a new one when re-assembling, if it breaks and the crown nut backs out your screwed.
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#8
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looks like i need needle nose lol cool i know there dumb questions but without specifics it would be a tougher job without it. thanks
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#9
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Cant remember if you need to undo the DRIVE SHAFT nut to take off either the DRUM or DISC. I didn't think so. Drum held on by small allen bolt. May have to slacken off brake adjuster to get drum off..
__________________
Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two. Current: E23 735i; E30 318i; E32 735iL; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman. Previous: E21 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
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