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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 09-21-2011, 04:48 PM
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OK, Duh. I finally understand what you guys were trying to tell me. Sorry for being dense.

There are two things you can do to prevent the vent hose from being kinked.

One is to route the vent hose through the openings in the original BMW battery positive cap, which has a convenient 'tunnel' right through it.



The other method to prevent kinks is to snip off about ¼ inch of the elbow at the end closest to the battery.
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  #102  
Old 09-21-2011, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
I used a pair of scissors & cut off approx 1/8" after measuring twice (cut once).
Thanks for the clarification.

I cut off about double what you did; yet there was still room for the soft flexible elbow to fit onto the Duralast 49-DL oblate shaped nipple.

Now it isn't squished against the 'vent grate' next to the battery!

Better yet, we have a good DIY for others to benefit!

Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
Just an FYI...this pic below (that you circled) is Jamie (Jamesdc4) from BimmerForums....
Ah, I see.

In fact, his pictures are re-used all over, e.g., here:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Battery Voltage



Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Okay, here are a couple of close-ups.
Got them. Now I understand.

Again, sorry for being dense; but the good news is my confusion, now clarified, will help others do their first battery replacement correctly!



BTW, this seems to that canonical jamesdc4 thread on installing the Duralast 49-DL in an E39:
- Bimmerforums Duralast 49DL battery install - Advice please.
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Last edited by bluebee; 09-21-2011 at 05:33 PM.
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  #103  
Old 09-21-2011, 07:18 PM
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I went with the Interstate MPT-H9 b/c I wanted a perfect fit for the "battery cave" placement in the M5. Also came with a big "Made in Germany" sticker on it, perhaps to justify the cost.

I may have already posted this pic in another thread, but the vent tube lines up perfectly even though its top left, I didn't need the extension.

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  #104  
Old 09-21-2011, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgy36-39 View Post
I went with the Interstate MPT-H9 b/c I wanted a perfect fit
It looks, from your picture, that the vent tube hole on the Interstate battery is in the same location (side, top) as on the OEM BMW battery.

I wonder why you even needed the elbow (since the OEM battery doesn't use the elbow)?

In the BMW battery, the vent tube goes straight into that hole at the top left of the battery.

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  #105  
Old 09-23-2011, 01:24 PM
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His extension tube looks used.

I would assume that the tube in the pic above went with his old battery...and that his old battery's vent hole was at the top center. Where as the 94/95/H9 class size batteries all tend to have their vent holes on the side of the battery...which also requires the little black elbow adapter that was used in the original BMW battery. these batteries are also usually mfg'd by EXIDE/East Penn.

-

The batteries that vent from the top center and that require the vent kit...are usually the 48/49/H8 battery class sizes...or the ones mfg'd by Johnson Controls.
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  #106  
Old 09-23-2011, 01:31 PM
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No Quick not used, it came already pretty dirty! Previous battery was OEM. Blue - I reused the little "elbow joint" thing that plugs into the tube.

I got the extension with the battery from my shop, but I didn't need it.
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  #107  
Old 09-23-2011, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
the little black elbow adapter that was used in the original BMW battery
Oh oh... this is the first time I'm hearing (understanding) about an original elbow for the BMW stock battery ...

When I removed my BMW dealer-installed battery last week, I didn't notice the vent-tube extension elbow. (However, I didn't even notice the vent tube at that time, let alone an original elbow.)



I 'thought' (until just now) that the vent tube went directly into the BMW battery (sans an elbow):


Now, I realize, belatedly, from your discussion, if there 'was' an elbow, that I LOST the elbow in my somewhat convoluted physical removal of the battery (that thing is HEAVY).

Note: This is 'not' how to remove a battery properly! But it's a great way to see the 'other' venting hole (plugged) in situ!


Embarrassing question:

Q: Does the original BMW battery configuration have the vent tube attached to an elbow which is then attached to the vent hole in the stock BMW battery?
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  #108  
Old 09-23-2011, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Q: Does the original BMW battery configuration have the vent tube attached to an elbow which is then attached to the vent hole in the stock BMW battery?
Yes, mine did. I think you'll see that the vent tube itself won't go directly into the battery.

My MTP-H9 also came with a plug, which goes in the opposite side of the vent hole.

Someone has to have this part. You could try a stealer, or call BavAuto or a place like that.
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  #109  
Old 09-23-2011, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgy36-39 View Post
I think you'll see that the vent tube itself won't go directly into the battery.
Ah. I see.

I'm sure I have that elbow lying around somewhere in my battery compartment. I just didn't know enough to look for it.

It's 'this' kind of simple (obvious, once you already know it) stuff I'm trying to help other newbies with, so thanks for letting me know.

I don't actually 'need' it, since I replaced my BMW-installed battery with a Duralast (whose venting is wholly different); but I want to add it to the DIY ...

- A simple E39 battery replacement DIY (1)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgy36-39 View Post
My MTP-H9 also came with a plug, which goes in the opposite side of the vent hole.
My original battery has this little black plug for the vent hole on the negative side of the battery.

Last edited by bluebee; 09-23-2011 at 10:42 PM.
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  #110  
Old 09-24-2011, 07:50 AM
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The little black elbow is in the diagram for the BMW oe battery.

You only need the elbow if you are using a battery that vents from the side...it facilitates attaching the car's gray vent tube by giving it a solid right angle that is inserted into the battery's side vent hole...while allowing you to shove the battery back into the corner without pinching the car's vent tube.

If you have a top vented battery that requires the extension "vent kit"...you won't need the black elbow.

You can see the original black elbow in these pics below:

_

And it is BMW part # 61 21 1 377 835 (cost approx 52¢ from BMW dealer)...see #11 in the diagram below:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgy36-39
No Quick not used, it came already pretty dirty!
Sorry 'bout that. I "assumed" since it looked kinda used...but you know what they say about assumptions... And the kits usually come in a sealed pkg...so again...I assumed...but was incorrect.

Here's one of the sealed "vent kits" that came with one of my Duralast batteries...it's on my e34 525iT web page so this means a purchase date around 2005/2006:



E34 525iT battery location - below rear seat
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  #111  
Old 01-30-2012, 12:34 AM
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For the cross-linked record, there is a discussion of the $155 AGM batteries for the E39 here today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Battery Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_n00b13 View Post
My car has had a few no-starts due to a flat battery; I'm not entirely sure of the cause but the battery is 5 years old, so assuming it fails a battery test when I get a tester, I'm looking for a replacement.

The subject has been beaten to death; I know the standard response is the duralast 49-dl, but I'm interested in something that may be able to handle more abuse. I make a lot of short trips with long sitting periods in between, and occasional long 2+hr highway trips.

I'm wondering if it's possible and worthwhile to install an AGM battery or if the E39 charging system won't support it. Any experiences?

I'd love to get a true OEM Varta but they're not available in north America.
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  #112  
Old 02-28-2012, 09:06 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Oh-kaaaay I think my luck with the Duralast 49DL is done. I went through two in 16 months. Both completely died within a couple days after coming off a Deltran battery tender (same one BMW sells I think...) with readings of 12.6 V. The second one had a reading of 7 V when I took it to Autozone to test. They refunded me $95, I took that and bought the H8 SuperMAXX at Walmart ($98 here in Eugene). The SuperMAXX has substantially more heft than the Duralast -- feels closer in mass to the BMW original. It also has vents on each end like the genuine BMW batteries do, with a small plug (still attached to the pos. terminal cap) that you use to plug the vent you will not use (the one on the aft end....).

I've been through the check-out routine for parasitic drain and will do it again to be sure, but last time I checked, after 16 min. my car goes into sleep mode and shows a current drain of between 0.02-0.05 amp. Is that enough to kill a battery in a car that's not driven for say, four or five days? I typically put the car on the tender (using underhood terminal connectors) once or twice a month.
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  #113  
Old 02-28-2012, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
bought the H8 SuperMAXX at Walmart ($98 here in Eugene).
Sounds like a nice battery, and closer in fitment than the Duralast 49DL. Are the electrical specs similar?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
current drain of between 0.02-0.05 amp. Is that enough to kill a battery
Assuming 0.05 amps for about a week, that would amount to less than 10 amp hours in total.

I'm not sure what 10 amp hours means to a charged battery so I'll let others chime in.

But, I did find this description of 'typical' parasitic drain:
Quote:
If everything is normal, you will read less than 35 milliamps, or .035 amps. If the current drain is higher than that, you need to find out what is draining your batteries
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  #114  
Old 02-29-2012, 08:58 AM
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Oopsie, seems the label on top of the battery is not complying with my memory .... This is what it is:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-...ttery/16782659

CCA rating is only 760 A. I didn't even look at that, just vividly remember that this one was way heavier than the Duralast I took back.
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  #115  
Old 02-29-2012, 09:43 AM
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Sorry for harping on you guys with the....Deka exact fit.
What the name implies - exact fit. Just like the OEM battery, exact same size, no need of adapting, splicing, re-routing vent hoses etc. The vent hose fits exactly like the OEM one, more CCA than the OEM.
Have it for the last 3 years now, no issues. Temp swings between summer & winter from -30°C or lower to +30°C.
They also have the new AGM style. And a good warranty.
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  #116  
Old 02-29-2012, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
Temp swings between summer & winter from -30°C or lower to +30°C.
I think that says a lot, and the more choices the better. Though in my case the nearest Deka dealer is 115 miles away....
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  #117  
Old 03-20-2012, 11:59 AM
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Hi there,

I also bought a battery from Walmart yesterday, the H8 Everstart Maxx which has a lower rating of 760 CCA (& NO VENT TUBE) compared to 850 CCA of the previous Maxx 49 battery. This morning, my car wouldn't start. I have to find out later today what the cause is. I have 2 amps in my car (which were off when I started the car) & wonder if I need a minimum CCA of 850 or more for the replacement battery. I read many of these boards and am getting conflicting info as to which battery I should get. I was about to go with the 49DL, but not so sure after reading your post. Any suggestions as far as the minimum CCA rating I should look for and if a vent tube is a must or not are greatly appreciated.

Z

Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Oh-kaaaay I think my luck with the Duralast 49DL is done. I went through two in 16 months. Both completely died within a couple days after coming off a Deltran battery tender (same one BMW sells I think...) with readings of 12.6 V. The second one had a reading of 7 V when I took it to Autozone to test. They refunded me $95, I took that and bought the H8 SuperMAXX at Walmart ($98 here in Eugene). The SuperMAXX has substantially more heft than the Duralast -- feels closer in mass to the BMW original. It also has vents on each end like the genuine BMW batteries do, with a small plug (still attached to the pos. terminal cap) that you use to plug the vent you will not use (the one on the aft end....).

I've been through the check-out routine for parasitic drain and will do it again to be sure, but last time I checked, after 16 min. my car goes into sleep mode and shows a current drain of between 0.02-0.05 amp. Is that enough to kill a battery in a car that's not driven for say, four or five days? I typically put the car on the tender (using underhood terminal connectors) once or twice a month.
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  #118  
Old 03-20-2012, 12:26 PM
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That Walmart battery is the exact same one I bought, and that CCA rating is higher than BMW's battery has, so it's not the problem.

If your new battery discharged overnight after one day in the car, your problem is that you either have a serious parasitic drain in your car, or you bought a dud battery. Did you measure the battery voltage before installation? With extra electronics in your car, you really need to do the test for parasitic drain and eliminate all possibilities.

The Everstart MAXX H8 doesn't come with a vent tube (you use the original BMW vent tube with the plastic elbow from the original battery). It has two vent ports on either end, in the same exact locations as the BMW battery. It is essential that the battery be vented with the tube, unless you want corrosive/explosive gases in the trunk. The red plastic postive terminal cover on the Everstart has (or should have) a small plug attached to it that you remove and insert into the vent port that isn't used.
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  #119  
Old 03-20-2012, 01:00 PM
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No, I didn't measure the battery voltage before installation. I should find out later today if the battery was a dud & also have the vent tube connected properly. By the way, does anyone know the OEM battery's CCA rating? Thanks for the help.
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  #120  
Old 03-20-2012, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzvelik View Post
1.... By the way, does anyone know the OEM battery's CCA rating? Thanks for the help.
2. I also bought a battery from Walmart yesterday, the H8 Everstart Maxx which has a lower rating of 760 CCA (& NO VENT TUBE) compared to 850 CCA of the previous Maxx 49 battery.
1. According to the part database (realoem)...the e39 battery (BMW part nbr 61 21 8 381 762) is listed as 720a/850ca. You give no indication of WHICH e39 you have in your posts since you have no signature with model/model year/build date listed...and you only have "e39" listed in the upper right under "cars"...so I have no idea of which diagram or part nbr list to share with you...but if you click this link for the 528i....you can see the list of batteries BMW used: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...61&fg=30&hl=19


2. The e39 can use multiple class size batteries (49/H8/94/95/H9)...some of them vent from the top center and some vent from the side (like the BMW original battery). If you haven't look in either locations...then that is why you may have missed the vent hole in the battery.

If it vents from the side...it requires the little black elbow that originally came with the car...if it vent's from the top...then you need the vent kit with the elongated "L" extension tube that should have come with the battery.

(you can see the little black elbow in the pic below of the car's vent tube)



(side vented battery)


(top center vented battery w/vent kit attached)


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  #121  
Old 03-21-2012, 10:01 AM
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It turned out that the Walmart installer didn't tighten the battery clamp to the positive terminal. I removed the battery, connected the vent tube & properly tightened both terminals.

Thanks for the tips and heads up about my profile which has been updated.
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  #122  
Old 03-21-2012, 04:27 PM
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I'm running a Duralast Gold 94R-DLG:

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  #123  
Old 03-22-2012, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzvelik View Post
It turned out that the Walmart installer didn't tighten the battery clamp to the positive terminal. I removed the battery, connected the vent tube & properly tightened both terminals.

Thanks for the tips and heads up about my profile which has been updated.
Great! Glad it was something simple to fix...and thanks for adding the car info, too. It helps us help you better.
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  #124  
Old 03-22-2012, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albo View Post
I'm running a Duralast Gold 94R-DLG:

It's always amazed me that the specs for the Duralast 49 DL are higher than the Duralast Gold 94/95R...but it cost less.

The Duralast Gold (DLG) is slightly longer & heavier...and I think it may have a higher Amp Hour rating...but still...the Reserve Capacity/Cold Cranking Amps/Cranking Amps are lower than the regular "DL" but it costs approx $50 more.

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Old 03-22-2012, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
It's always amazed me that the specs for the Duralast 49 DL are higher than the Duralast Gold 94/95R...but it cost less.

The Duralast Gold (DLG) is slightly longer & heavier...and I think it may have a higher Amp Hour rating...but still...the Reserve Capacity/Cold Cranking Amps/Cranking Amps are lower than the regular "DL" but it costs approx $50 more.


I had set out to get the 49-DL but none of the 3 local autozones to me had it in stock. I ended up buying the Gold. I don't remember exaclty, but I'm certain I paid $100 for it. That's gold in my book!
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