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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 02-19-2012, 09:10 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eparayno View Post
Well I finished the installation. Car feels the same and still runs great, all that's left to do is put some spacers underneath the intake cover to lift it up(cant fully bolt it because of the hose), remove the CCV still and plug the dip stick tube. Should be 100% wrapped up tomorrow since today I have places to go.
I like the idea but......

The Catch can, being low in position, will eventually collect oil and fills it up. Now oil will enter the I.M.
My suggestion is simplicity: somehow use a snake or something to create a loop that is higher than the Valve Cover, this way any oil that enters the loop flows back down by gravity.
See my earlier post about "snake" on poolman DIY.
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  #27  
Old 02-19-2012, 09:25 AM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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CN90 yes Ive seen your suggestion and like it, just have some minor issues right now concerning the hoses being pinched. And it definitely is the hoses, I will need more robust ones as these heater hoses aren't cutting it. I started up the car without the valve in place and the hose started sucking in. Headed to NAPA right now.
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  #28  
Old 02-19-2012, 10:06 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Cn90--concerning oil filling up in the catch can--I thought this would occur also, but for some reason it doesn't. There may be a few tablespoons in there from time to time, but thats all there is for some reason. I have the suck up machine that I use to empty the can, but when I use it there is so little in there that I don't even bother with it any more. I just check inside with a flashlight after removing the PVC valve and thats about it.
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  #29  
Old 02-19-2012, 09:43 PM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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All done, same setup minus values comparing it to the stock CCV. All that was changed was a more robust hose leading to the intake. The codes I pulled were for running lean and 2 for the ICV most likely due to the hose being pinched with vacuum. Cleared the codes and took a 25 mile highway drive and no lights came on. The 3 liter i6 still has that 'beefy' feel that I like to associate with inline cylinder configurations. Overall I'm glad I took on this project. I love to tinker and this has met my tinkering needs. In the future I will try to make it look much more clean by utilizing a different vacuum source. I have plans to use the opening on the intake tube right after the MAF
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  #30  
Old 02-20-2012, 11:09 AM
bimmerteck bimmerteck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eparayno View Post
Everything is buttoned up. New problem now though. During idle the hose I have going from the PCV to the intake is compressing, the hose becomes almost flat. Is it the valve or the hose? Maybe the valve is on backwards? I have it setup like how it is on the 1.8T engine but that application is forced induction.
I believe your on the right track, although it looks good installed you will likely find that the PCV valve from the 1.8T is not a good match for your motor due to it being engineered for a forced induction application.

The valve you're using was never meant to regulate manifold vacuum as the 1.8T uses the suction within the turbo's intake for PCV function, not manifold vacuum.


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  #31  
Old 02-20-2012, 11:26 AM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerteck View Post
I believe your on the right track, although it looks good installed you will likely find that the PCV valve from the 1.8T is not a good match for your motor due to it being engineered for a forced induction application.

The valve you're using was never meant to regulate manifold vacuum as the 1.8T uses the suction within the turbo's intake for PCV function, not manifold vacuum.


Yea I figured since it's from a forced induction unit it would not be like on a NA application. I returned the valve and swapped in one that I found at the parts store that fit in 5/8" hose.
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  #32  
Old 02-20-2012, 11:33 AM
bimmerteck bimmerteck is offline
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Also know that many PCV valves have a weighted component to them and must be properly oriented(as installed on their original engine) to regulate vacuum properly.
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  #33  
Old 02-22-2012, 10:48 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerteck View Post
I believe your on the right track, although it looks good installed you will likely find that the PCV valve from the 1.8T is not a good match for your motor due to it being engineered for a forced induction application.

The valve you're using was never meant to regulate manifold vacuum as the 1.8T uses the suction within the turbo's intake for PCV function, not manifold vacuum.


+1.
Makes sense...

So, what would be the correct PCV to use on the M54?
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  #34  
Old 02-22-2012, 12:23 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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The one I'm using came off of a small block Ford, like a 302 engine--works great for me. The angle of the PVC must be set with the oriface pointed down into the catch can and the hose going to it hooked to the vacuum sorce.
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  #35  
Old 02-22-2012, 01:21 PM
fabby318is fabby318is is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerteck View Post
^this.

Crankcase vacuum increases ring piston seal, reduces oil leaks, and improves oil flow within the block.

I personally believe the BMW I6s need a little MORE vacuum in the crankcase than stock rather than less. I say this b/c when I've installed dry sump systems with multistage scavenge pumps the I6 motors tend to see around a 15% increase in power on the dyno. Oil pressure drops slightly and generally lower oil temps follow as well.

As to those wanting to eliminate the mayonnaise, run ethanol free fuel if you can find it and the volume will be reduced dramatically as it is often caused by water in your fuel being deposited in the crankcase due to blow by.
Sorry to thread jack somewhat, but Bimmerteck can you please supply me with more info on your dry sump system...any pics installed? Thanks.
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  #36  
Old 02-22-2012, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabby318is View Post
Sorry to thread jack somewhat, but Bimmerteck can you please supply me with more info on your dry sump system...any pics installed? Thanks.
That's what PM's are for.


The new valve that I'm using is used on a 3.2L V6 Chrysler engine and is $3 At auto stores. If one wanted to use the stock CCV to control vacuum then install of a catch can would be super easy. My aim was to eliminate the stock CCV. The check valve im using is in such a convenient place now(routed under the MAF sensor intake tube). I will upload new pics once I get a chance.

Heres a pic showing how you would run a catch can with the stock CCV using the stock hose attached to the valve cover.. The hose on the bottom of the CCV would have to be plugged and the port on the dipstick tube capped.
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Last edited by eparayno; 02-22-2012 at 02:57 PM.
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  #37  
Old 02-23-2012, 09:33 AM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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I am finally finished with this project! The new pcv valve Im using works perfectly! I circled the location of the valve in red in the pictures I attached.


http://cdn-live.auto-shepherd.com/20...906_Square.jpg

-Purolator PV1050
-O'Reilly Auto/Microguard PCV345
-FRAM FV345 & FV345DP
-BWD Auto PCV358
-Napa Item MPF39358 or CRB29358

Those are all the same valves at varying prices. The model I got was from O'reillys for $2.99. Im thinking I did a good and clean looking setup. I retained both vacuum sources on the distribution piece by using the OEM elbow connected to the front vacuum port which helped with the fitment, placement and OE-ish looks(imo). I can definitely make it look more OEM with snap on hose clamps but Ill save that for another day. My car nut neighbor actually stopped by asking what I was working on and he didnt even mention or notice the catch can! I am pleased I took this project on. The valve will now be a 10minute change including inspecting/emptying the catch can.
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  #38  
Old 02-23-2012, 09:47 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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This is very cool, please report back from time to time.
I am curious to know if 6 months from now you have any oil in the catch can.
I can see that it is easy to change, plus it is $3 so one can change it out once a year or so.

You should be a BMW engineer LOL....

EDIT: I wonder if you can place the catch can in a higher position (? near suspension tower or ? firewall area), in such a way that the hose (from valve cover ---> catch can) slopes upward.
This way any oil that enters the hose flows back down by gravity.

Last edited by cn90; 02-23-2012 at 09:49 AM.
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  #39  
Old 02-23-2012, 09:50 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Nice job. I think all the 6-cylinder owners would be interested in an update after a month or two.
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  #40  
Old 02-23-2012, 09:51 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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cn90, it looks like you and I are on the same wavelength.
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  #41  
Old 02-23-2012, 09:59 AM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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Cn90 I can place it higher if I remove the hood pad. As it sits now it is slightly touching the pad, when I open the hood there's a very light coating of brown dust on the can and top hose. That pad is pretty damn thick though, if removed id say there would be 2" of clearance above.

I'll post after a few thousand miles of driving. After a couple hundred there is oily watery sludge in the can while the intake hose remains clean. So the can is doing its job. I'll see how much is in there next oil change which is coming up soon. I'm changing the OFH gasket as well since that's the only thing left leaking oil.
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  #42  
Old 02-26-2012, 06:00 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Like the neatness of all you have done--might switch mine over to the way you have yours made up--do you have a pic of the PCV vale by itself? Mine is like o a 90% angle going down into the catch can. This is another thing that I would like for you to check if you don't mind. Take a paper towel and clean out the back of your exhaust tail pipe as clean as yo can get it. Is there alot of carbon build up there--if so--watch that area and see if the carbon build up goes from heavy to very very light build up---that is waht happened when I did this on my car--very very light carbon build up--before the catch can the build up was very heavy--very heavy indeed. wouldn't be surprised if yours starts burning white back there--any way, thats another spot to check from time to time.
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  #43  
Old 02-26-2012, 07:52 AM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
Like the neatness of all you have done--might switch mine over to the way you have yours made up--do you have a pic of the PCV vale by itself? Mine is like o a 90% angle going down into the catch can. This is another thing that I would like for you to check if you don't mind. Take a paper towel and clean out the back of your exhaust tail pipe as clean as yo can get it. Is there alot of carbon build up there--if so--watch that area and see if the carbon build up goes from heavy to very very light build up---that is waht happened when I did this on my car--very very light carbon build up--before the catch can the build up was very heavy--very heavy indeed. wouldn't be surprised if yours starts burning white back there--any way, thats another spot to check from time to time.
http://cdn-live.auto-shepherd.com/20...906_Square.jpg

The threaded part goes towards the intake. On the Mazda engine it actually threads into a runner on the intake manifold.

I just replaced my stock muffler with a Magnaflow 11366 last week (sounds great with resonator removed) The tip is still clean looking after a few hundred miles of highway driving and little stop and go. Ill check my stock can later since I still have it and inspect the new muffler tip as well.
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  #44  
Old 02-26-2012, 08:05 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Nice job man! Looking mighty stock

Don't forget to report back once a while. My 330XI maybe going this way in the future.
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  #45  
Old 02-27-2012, 10:10 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eparayno View Post
I just wanted to do away with that damn thing once and for all
This is such a nice idea that I just had to add it to the bestlinks (see red bold addition below):

- How to test the crankcase ventilation (aka CCV, CVV, PCV, CPV, & OSV) pressure regulating valve system (1) & a video of oil separator quacking chubacca noise (1) & vacuum leaks due to holes in one or more of the five CCV hoses (1) (2) (3) or frozen or torn diaphragms (1) & a clogged CCV (1) causing pressure in the crankcase and smoke in the exhaust necessitating CCV system overhaul (BavAuto M54, M54,M54,M54,M54, & M54 observations) (M52,M52) (M52TU) (M62,M62) ('99 528i) ('98 528i); usually replaced with the insulated CCV upgrade (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to do a CCV delete (1)

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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #46  
Old 03-02-2012, 08:56 PM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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thanks for the acknowledgement Bluebee! After about 500-600ish miles on this setup everything is still working perfectly. I swapped rides with my dad who did about a 150mile drive from san diego to orange county/LA area and back to north county san diego and he just loves how the car feels.
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  #47  
Old 03-03-2012, 08:29 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Hows the gas mileage now? How about the carbon build up around the tailpipe.. My mileage is about the same out on the road, and after hooking up the catch can the exhuast pipe is pretty clean
Just checking to see if the same is holding for you
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  #48  
Old 03-03-2012, 11:05 AM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
Hows the gas mileage now? How about the carbon build up around the tailpipe.. My mileage is about the same out on the road, and after hooking up the catch can the exhuast pipe is pretty clean
Just checking to see if the same is holding for you
Gas mileage is about the same. I do mostly highway driving though. As for the muffler tip it is clean, barely(if any) carbon inside.
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  #49  
Old 03-03-2012, 06:15 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Sounds like your haveing the same findings that I have had--on my car I did this to try and stop oil useage, it helped tremendously in that regard. Glad this is working out well for you--keep us
all informed from time to time--Question--where did you buy your catch can?
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  #50  
Old 03-03-2012, 06:32 PM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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Originally Posted by poolman View Post
Sounds like your haveing the same findings that I have had--on my car I did this to try and stop oil useage, it helped tremendously in that regard. Glad this is working out well for you--keep us
all informed from time to time--Question--where did you buy your catch can?

While washing the car today I wiped my finger inside of the tip of the muffler and there was barely any carbon, it looked like I wiped my finger on the surface of an old dusty cabinet just darker.

I got the can from http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Stea...Can_p_289.html mainly because of the large 3/4" inlet/outlets AND the baffling they use is top notch and slightly overkill. Its like baffling that you find under PCV valves attached to valve covers but overly engineered:



The price may seem high but I figured if I had to get new fittings/taps/various other accessories 42 draft designs price for their can was very reasonable.
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