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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 03-04-2012, 07:23 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Thanks for all the info and for letting me know what I dreamed up wasn't just a fluke for my car. When the spring gets here in a couple of weeks, will be working to set towards turning the system
into what you have. Very neat and more out of the way than my creation. On the hose going into the valve cover, did you use the end of one of the original ccv tubes to hook there? Saw the end off and then plug into a vac hose? I want to set everything up before jumping in and doing, don't want to be into the work then have to stop and start driving around to find something to make something work
Great Job
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  #52  
Old 03-04-2012, 07:59 AM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
Thanks for all the info and for letting me know what I dreamed up wasn't just a fluke for my car. When the spring gets here in a couple of weeks, will be working to set towards turning the system
into what you have. Very neat and more out of the way than my creation. On the hose going into the valve cover, did you use the end of one of the original ccv tubes to hook there? Saw the end off and then plug into a vac hose? I want to set everything up before jumping in and doing, don't want to be into the work then have to stop and start driving around to find something to make something work
Great Job
Yes I used all the stock fittings from the CCV and the 'L' connector from the valve cover I cut with a dremel to make it a straight fitting.
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  #53  
Old 03-04-2012, 08:35 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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The hose hooked into the distribution unit appears to be the stock one--how is that hose fitted to the vac hose going over to the catch can? Did you saw it off also--you use a 3/4 hose there with a hose clamp as you did on the valve cover attachement?
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  #54  
Old 03-04-2012, 09:00 AM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
The hose hooked into the distribution unit appears to be the stock one--how is that hose fitted to the vac hose going over to the catch can? Did you saw it off also--you use a 3/4 hose there with a hose clamp as you did on the valve cover attachement?
The fittings on the distribution piece I left untouched I just removed the plastic hose part on the front 'L' and attached 5/8" fuel line hose from there to the PCV valve then used 3/4" hose that fit around the hex part of the valves body. And the valve cover attachment I used 3/4".

What I love about the PCV valve I chose is that it uses 5/8" hose, same ID used on the fitting on the distribution unit.
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  #55  
Old 03-04-2012, 10:16 AM
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HerrK HerrK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eparayno View Post
So after installing a new CCV the oil drips are still present. I just wanted to do away with that damn thing once and for all and did a LOT of research off this site and some on this site. I left it vented to the air for now so excuse the foam filter. It was the only one I could find locally that would fit. The car started right up, no codes, dash lights etc. The CCV is still attached to the engine I will be unbolting that damn thing once i have more time. I just plugged the vacuum ports on the distribution piece and fabbed up my own connector from the valve cover using the connector from the old CCV. One thing I did notice was a lot of oil in the distribution piece vacuum nipples. Eventually I will have a closed system again. Just waiting on a PCV to come in used for Audi/VW 1.8T engines.

One thing I noticed while driving on the new setup was that the engine tone sounded different, can't really describe the change but the I6 sounded more pronounced? Also the car fell better during acceleration. That may be due to no more oil being sucked into the intake. Stupid new cold weather CCV.

Here are some links that helped me including the PCV valve I will be using to recirculate and the catch can I used. I chose it mainly because of the internal baffling and the 3/4" fittings:


http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=861315
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...--1.8T/ES7844/
http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Stea...Can_p_289.html


Also thank you to Poolman and CN90 from this site. Your articles were a very good read regarding the PCV/CCV system!!
Have you had it through a CA SMOG test yet? I doubt that it will pass not OEM.
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  #56  
Old 03-04-2012, 11:24 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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I bet it shows up cleaner than before---this little gizmo will almost have your pipes burning white
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  #57  
Old 03-04-2012, 08:53 PM
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The car was smogged a month before I bought it so I have a while to go before I can see if this setup will pass. Dont see how it wouldnt(besides visual) since it's a closed system like the stock setup on the engine and every other engine minus introducing the blow-by oil sludge into the combustion chamber to be burned.
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  #58  
Old 03-05-2012, 07:08 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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My way of thinking on this is, the added vacuum into the crankcase helps seal the piston rings, makeing the engine have less blowby gases entering the combustion chamber
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  #59  
Old 03-05-2012, 10:34 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Originally Posted by eparayno View Post
The car was smogged a month before I bought it so I have a while to go before I can see if this setup will pass. Dont see how it wouldnt(besides visual) since it's a closed system like the stock setup on the engine and every other engine minus introducing the blow-by oil sludge into the combustion chamber to be burned.
Do you have any better pictures of the connection to the air distribution piece, and at the PCV valve?

Thanks!
Jason
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  #60  
Old 03-05-2012, 12:45 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
My way of thinking on this is, the added vacuum into the crankcase helps seal the piston rings, makeing the engine have less blowby gases entering the combustion chamber
Poolman, how is your oil consumption since you have the catch can?
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  #61  
Old 03-05-2012, 01:07 PM
WaveSurfin3100 WaveSurfin3100 is offline
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esparayno, the hose from the catch can that dives under the Intake gets attached to what/where?? The CCV is a royal pain and I like what you have done!! Thanks!
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  #62  
Old 03-05-2012, 01:41 PM
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If the e39 OEM CCV is changed with a 39M5 cyclone separator (which has no diaphragm), and at the bottom we fit a check valve so as to avoid oil suction, would that not be a better solution? The M5 cyclonic separator has the 2 main lines going in/out and the bottom for the oil separation, pretty much like the OEM diaphragm CCV. But now, you eliminate the freezing of the diaphragm, or the rupture of it. Not sure if the vacuum is at the correct spec, but this will allow to keep the hoses where they were in a OEM built car, so you still have access to everything else pretty easy.
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  #63  
Old 03-05-2012, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by doru View Post
If the e39 OEM CCV is changed with a 39M5 cyclone separator (which has no diaphragm), and at the bottom we fit a check valve so as to avoid oil suction, would that not be a better solution? The M5 cyclonic separator has the 2 main lines going in/out and the bottom for the oil separation, pretty much like the OEM diaphragm CCV. But now, you eliminate the freezing of the diaphragm, or the rupture of it. Not sure if the vacuum is at the correct spec, but this will allow to keep the hoses where they were in a OEM built car, so you still have access to everything else pretty easy.
Exactly my thinking as well...
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  #64  
Old 03-08-2012, 01:18 PM
vclifford vclifford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
If the e39 OEM CCV is changed with a 39M5 cyclone separator (which has no diaphragm), and at the bottom we fit a check valve so as to avoid oil suction, would that not be a better solution? The M5 cyclonic separator has the 2 main lines going in/out and the bottom for the oil separation, pretty much like the OEM diaphragm CCV. But now, you eliminate the freezing of the diaphragm, or the rupture of it. Not sure if the vacuum is at the correct spec, but this will allow to keep the hoses where they were in a OEM built car, so you still have access to everything else pretty easy.
You mean just replace this
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E39-530...rator/ES25703/
with this part
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E39-M5-...rator/ES19538/


Does that vacuum hose connects to intake. I do not know why I think it is closed and non functional.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...94&hg=11&fg=15
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  #65  
Old 03-08-2012, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by vclifford View Post
You mean just replace this
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E39-530...rator/ES25703/
with this part
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E39-M5-...rator/ES19538/


Does that vacuum hose connects to intake. I do not know why I think it is closed and non functional.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...94&hg=11&fg=15
Hose #2 would connect to the upper lower intake of the funnel. Hose #3 would connect to the upper most nipple of the funnel. Hose #4 would connect to the dipstick from the lower nipple of the funnel. Place a check valve between the lower outlet of the funnel & hose #4 to avoid oil suction. Basically, it's almost like the OEM, only you loose the regulating valve, and you add a check valve.
The check valve is an added benefit, because you are now 100% sure you will never hydrolock (with oil) the car. The issue is loosing the regulating valve (which is the top portion of the CCV and sits sideways), what problem might this infilct? I know you won't have the freezing issue anymore...but: if it's cold enough, and if you get lots of engine moisture from the crankcase via hose #2, can you clog the bottom of the funnel with ice?
So there are 2 questions. Also, can the check valve placed between the funnel & hose #4 freeze?

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  #66  
Old 03-08-2012, 03:11 PM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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I've thought about using that M5 oil seperator but decided against it due to someone on the boards (or maybe the other board) that said that it does not work well when using it to replace the CCV. I'll try to find the page again because I dont remember the specifics.

The other option I was looking at and is probably THE best choice was this beauty:

https://www.mann-hummel.com/company/...=35&rec_no=192

And here are good shots of the unit:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=846480

It's a catch can/valve unit in one with a filter. Only thing that made me not pull the trigger on it was the price, about 230ish dollars and replacement filters are about 40+ dollar range.

Last edited by eparayno; 03-08-2012 at 03:14 PM.
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  #67  
Old 03-08-2012, 03:32 PM
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I've seen that Hummel unit. Looks nice. But again, it also has the diaphragm. The question is: will it freeze when you have a really cold day? And I know we have some nasty cold days here in the winter. If this happens, it's the equivalent of the OEM CCV, which when all is ideal works as intended.
The issue in the cold climate is the water vapour that is sucked together with the oil vapour. The mayo obtained will freeze. If it collects in the same place where the actual OEM CCV sits. The e9x have the diaphragm inside the air distribution piece somewhere. Not sure where the draining funnel is located.
If we can place only the diaphragm in a place where it will never freeze, no matter how cold it's outside, and on the same token to resist heat, and have the collecting/draining unit somewhere, where even if it starts freezing at the beginning of the journey, but will warm up and melt the mayo eventually and let it drain in the oil pan, that would be OK too.
That filter in the Hummel design is overkill if you drain the oil.
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  #68  
Old 03-08-2012, 07:32 PM
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After reviewing the Mann-Hummel unit documentation, what appears to be a vacuum regulator on the side of the unit is actually a positive pressure blow off regulator.

If you're not going to use a low vacuum, closed regulation system like the stock BMW CCV unit, then I believe that the only safe alternative is just a vented catch can. I believing connecting full manifold vacuum to a closed crankcase is a bad idea. I'll be posting a bunch of technical information on the CCV subject in the near future.
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  #69  
Old 03-09-2012, 05:23 PM
vclifford vclifford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
Hose #2 would connect to the upper lower intake of the funnel. Hose #3 would connect to the upper most nipple of the funnel. Hose #4 would connect to the dipstick from the lower nipple of the funnel. Place a check valve between the lower outlet of the funnel & hose #4 to avoid oil suction. Basically, it's almost like the OEM, only you loose the regulating valve, and you add a check valve.
The check valve is an added benefit, because you are now 100% sure you will never hydrolock (with oil) the car. The issue is loosing the regulating valve (which is the top portion of the CCV and sits sideways), what problem might this infilct? I know you won't have the freezing issue anymore...but: if it's cold enough, and if you get lots of engine moisture from the crankcase via hose #2, can you clog the bottom of the funnel with ice?
So there are 2 questions. Also, can the check valve placed between the funnel & hose #4 freeze?

I was thinking that a good air compressor coaleascing filter or even the m5 oil separator or a simple catch can in line #2 will keep the #1 in good condition.
that hummel device is 150$ and filter probably lasts 50k miles.
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  #70  
Old 03-09-2012, 05:35 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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I have been using the full vacuum system on my car now for almost 2 years--from what I have now and what I had before--I'm not looking back--my oil useage was right at 1 qt every 1,000 miles before I hooked everything up. Now my oil useage is 1 qt every 3500 to 4000 miles. My gas mileage is right on when on the highway, wish it was a little better in the city--in my case, this has worked wonders and if it helps anyone else, I'm hope for their success. My mileage on the car is now 225,000 miles--this has worked for me

Last edited by poolman; 03-09-2012 at 05:36 PM.
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  #71  
Old 03-09-2012, 06:21 PM
vclifford vclifford is offline
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Originally Posted by eparayno View Post
I am finally finished with this project! The new pcv valve Im using works perfectly! I circled the location of the valve in red in the pictures I attached.


http://cdn-live.auto-shepherd.com/20...906_Square.jpg

-Purolator PV1050
-O'Reilly Auto/Microguard PCV345
-FRAM FV345 & FV345DP
-BWD Auto PCV358
-Napa Item MPF39358 or CRB29358

Those are all the same valves at varying prices. The model I got was from O'reillys for $2.99. Im thinking I did a good and clean looking setup. I retained both vacuum sources on the distribution piece by using the OEM elbow connected to the front vacuum port which helped with the fitment, placement and OE-ish looks(imo). I can definitely make it look more OEM with snap on hose clamps but Ill save that for another day. My car nut neighbor actually stopped by asking what I was working on and he didnt even mention or notice the catch can! I am pleased I took this project on. The valve will now be a 10minute change including inspecting/emptying the catch can.
So is the PCV located at the lower hose, the source of vacuum?
and the lower hose connects to #5 on real oem diagram, probably through some metal fitting ? This is the real oem diagram

It will be a great mod if you could draw some line on top of real oem image's screen shot. and the putting cross over hoses which were entirely deleted.


I was thinking that instead of using a catchcan one can use the 540 oil separator and put a simple catch can at the drainage point. If a catch can manufacturer is not showing cross sections of catch can it might be just an empty can. The parts can be assembled in this order from the vacuum source onwards .


home-made-ccv-system-f

red is pcv valve as used by you
green m5 cyclone separator
olive green is simple catch can , may be a check valve before that catch can be added

what do you think , will it work


Regards,

Last edited by vclifford; 03-10-2012 at 05:10 AM.
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  #72  
Old 03-21-2012, 10:48 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Do you have any better pictures of the connection to the air distribution piece, and at the PCV valve?

Thanks!
Jason
This...^^^^....
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  #73  
Old 04-16-2012, 04:07 PM
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Woops forgot to take better pics of that connection Jason! The ones I posted on page 2 show the 5/8" fuel hose connected to the vacuum connection on the distribution piece. The hose is routed just like how the stock plastic hose is but comes out towards the catch can.



The red is the hose from the connection on the distribution piece.
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  #74  
Old 04-16-2012, 04:09 PM
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eparayno eparayno is offline
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Oh and I have over 1000 miles on this setup and everything is still A-Ok USA. The catch can has had maybe 1/4"-3/8" of soupy muck in it which I just suck out with my mityvac. Exhaust tip is still super clean as well Poolman, if you're reading
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  #75  
Old 04-17-2012, 05:23 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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I'm still reading--sounds like my prediction came through
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