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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-08-2010, 06:47 PM
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Front Crankshaft Oil Seal DIY

Anyone have a good link. I'm searched the net and haven't come across one.

thanks.
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  #2  
Old 08-08-2010, 07:29 PM
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pretty simple job, a bit cramped for non-regular diy'ers. depending on the tools you have available.

secure the vehicle on stands (or lift, if available)

remove the belts

remove the crank bolt (an impact gun works well here...)

remove the balancer, crank gear, and hub.

remove old oil seal.



since the housing is aluminum, i do not suggest banging the new seal in without lots of caution as to not damage anything. you may wish to size up the new seal with a socket*, or, use a piece of pvc pipe and washer(s) and use the crank bolt to seat the new seal.

*a regular seal driver will not work due to the snout of the crankshaft sticking out beyond the lip of the timing cover.


other than that it's pretty simple. i do suggest proper torque specs, though. the crank bolt is listed at 303ft lbs, and is suggested to be replaced with a new one. (might be torque to yield design, not sure)


df
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:37 PM
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Thanks, drivinfaster!

May have to leave this to the Pro's.
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Old 08-20-2010, 07:37 PM
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drivinfaster, I may take a crack at DIY on this.

Do you know if I will need a Crankshaft puller to pull the Crankshaft Pulley off?
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Old 08-21-2010, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by IgotBMW View Post
drivinfaster, I may take a crack at DIY on this.

Do you know if I will need a Crankshaft puller to pull the Crankshaft Pulley off?
no, it is bolted to the snout hub. undo the bolts that hold it to the hub, and then undo the crank bolt. the hub should slide off the crank snout with the crank bolt removed.

did you get a new crank bolt?? they're not supposed to be reused per bmw.


df
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Old 08-21-2010, 04:29 PM
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df, to verify your speculation, the crank bolt is indeed a "torque to yield" fastener. That's why it can't be reused (as you guessed).
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  #7  
Old 08-21-2010, 05:41 PM
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You need a nice impact gun too.

Make sure to torque to spec afterward, it's somewhere around 300+ ft pounds. If you just use an impact gun, it WILL come loose.
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Old 08-21-2010, 08:14 PM
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Didn't know about the bolt.

I'm glad this forum exist. You guys are so helpful.

What do I do if I only have an electric impact wrench with only 220 lbs/ft max?
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Old 08-21-2010, 08:48 PM
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Old 08-21-2010, 09:15 PM
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VERY strong!

You'll need a very long breaker bar at minimum.
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  #11  
Old 08-22-2010, 12:01 AM
AdmKlondikebar AdmKlondikebar is offline
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  #12  
Old 02-19-2012, 07:38 PM
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Bumping this because I think I'm going to have to do it soon -- this can really be done without ripping the timing case apart? I think this is where my oil leak is coming from.

I assume you have to remove the radiator to get enough clearance in there, right? How do you get the old seal out? How do you stop the crank from turning when you are trying to get the bolt off? Do you need one of the tools to hold it in place (or could you do it with the locking pin?).

I need to pinpoint my oil leak, but I think it could be my front crank seal. I saw some pictures somewhere else that looked exactly like I was experiencing and he solved it through replacing the front crank seal.

Edit - my leak looks exactly like this. This guy talked about replacing the hub behind the crank pulley....why would that be necessary? http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=188324
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Last edited by ethereal45; 02-19-2012 at 07:42 PM.
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  #13  
Old 02-20-2012, 02:03 PM
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the oil seal has a spring that holds tension to the hub. over time, and this is lots of time mind you, this pressure will cause a seal to wear into the hub creating a little groove.

this groove could allow oil to seep past even with a new seal.

there are 'fixes' for this on more common vehicle makes, like small block chevy and ford motors, that consists of a thin metal sleeve that gets pushed over the snout to create a freash surface for the seal to seal against.

there are (apparently) similar 'fix-its' for the rear main sel as well, but i do not know if there are any made for the bmw motors. (i did not bother to check, but i'm sure a quick google will reveal any possible repair kits out there)

most repairs for the oil seal do not require the replacement of the hub. only if it is grooved.

a regular seal puller should be sufficent to remove the old seal.



df
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:11 PM
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So can you get this bolt off with an impact? Or do I need to get the crank locking tool and go to down with an epic breaker bar/pipe combo?

Why do you need a seal puller, can't you just pop it out with a thin flathead? (Sorry, I have no experience with rotational seals like this....)
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2012, 04:00 PM
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yes, an impact will be helpful.

yes, a crank locking pin will be useful to torque the new crank bolt down properly. (they're torque to yeild, so they need to be replaced)

yes, a screwdriver will work, but the seal puller has a curved shape which adds leverage and pivot point that you do not get with a screwdriver.




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  #16  
Old 02-20-2012, 09:18 PM
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ethereal if you do this please take DETAILED pics. i may have to do the same job...

i <3 you!
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  #17  
Old 03-15-2012, 09:55 AM
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i may have to do this and want to confirm the parts that need to be replaced. i'm going off the parts listed here - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...35&hg=11&fg=18




also, do any other parts need to be replaced besides what is listed above?

Last edited by MrToSlo; 03-15-2012 at 10:55 AM.
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  #18  
Old 03-15-2012, 10:39 AM
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Look under Engine Housing.

On my M44 it's shown like this:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...85&hg=11&fg=10

For my car, it's part
03 Shaft seal 44X60X10 1 11141439570 $24.92
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  #19  
Old 03-15-2012, 10:54 AM
MrToSlo MrToSlo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IgotBMW View Post
Look under Engine Housing.

On my M44 it's shown like this:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...85&hg=11&fg=10

For my car, it's part
03 Shaft seal 44X60X10 1 11141439570 $24.92

thanks! updated my post.
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  #20  
Old 03-15-2012, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ethereal45 View Post
Bumping this because I think I'm going to have to do it soon -- this can really be done without ripping the timing case apart? I think this is where my oil leak is coming from.

I assume you have to remove the radiator to get enough clearance in there, right? How do you get the old seal out? How do you stop the crank from turning when you are trying to get the bolt off? Do you need one of the tools to hold it in place (or could you do it with the locking pin?).

I need to pinpoint my oil leak, but I think it could be my front crank seal. I saw some pictures somewhere else that looked exactly like I was experiencing and he solved it through replacing the front crank seal.

Edit - my leak looks exactly like this. This guy talked about replacing the hub behind the crank pulley....why would that be necessary? http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=188324
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToSlo View Post
i may have to do this and want to confirm the parts that need to be replaced. i'm going off the parts listed here - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...35&hg=11&fg=18




also, do any other parts need to be replaced besides what is listed above?
ok, this is twice...where are you guys getting the idea that the hub needs to be replaced?? i am not aware that this is a wear part, and subject to needing replacement on occasion. it is also not like a bearing that could be damaged upon removal, so i don't think that would be it.

please essplainz, as i are confuzzeded...

there is no explanation as to why the hub was replaced in the thread...i checked...



df
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  #21  
Old 03-15-2012, 08:40 PM
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Just for reference, an average air wrench is not going to get that bolt off. Mine is rated at 300-something ft-lbs and it didn't stand a chance. You'd need a professional one.

What I did was I set up a breaker bar against the ground, and used the starter to crank the engine. It nearly lifted the car off the ground the first couple times, but it worked. Getting it back on is the tricky part, though. Might wanna just tighten it up as much as possible then bring it to a mechanic to torque it down.
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:04 PM
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Or just lock the flywheel and use a ratchet with a 4' pipe?
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:09 PM
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guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13
buying a ratty example (of a BMW) is a parasitic relationship.(and you ain't the mosquito) 7pilot

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by crisscross View Post
Or just lock the flywheel and use a ratchet with a 4' pipe?
I'm talking about if the engine and transmission are still in the car. The clutch slips if you don't hit it quick.
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:43 PM
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Right, when you do the vanos, you have to lock the flywheel with a pin (dowel) with the engine in the car. Clutch has nothing to do with it....

There is a hole in the bellhousing where you can insert the dowel when the engine is at TDC, and it will be impossible to rotate the crank.
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