DSX, you are invited to reply....

OK, DSX, we all agree: You're the MAN!

So.

I'm looking for a powered electronic torque wrench + angle for my bolt tightening pleasure.

Made a quick & dirty purchase, but it's manually pulled.

Can you recommend a powered wrench that will do well in my 335i's tight spaces?

I am curious what you and DSX think about this Brown Line wrench that Phil of DD put up on sale recently in the detailing dept:



http://www.detailersdomain.com/Brown...-12_p_691.html

OHHH DSX has been called out!

He's getting here as fast as he can:

Originally Posted by ///M-ratedE90

GOD ALMIGHTY, MAN!

You are outing DSX?

Originally Posted by Ilovemycar

I am curious what you and DSX think about this Brown Line wrench that Phil of DD put up on sale recently in the detailing dept:



http://www.detailersdomain.com/Brown...-12_p_691.html

Sorry ILMC, have no data on that unit.

Many seem to be OEM'd, including the one I bought, from an inscrutable, long distance manufacturer.
_________________________________
WORD FOR TODAY:

in·scru·ta·ble -- [in-skroo-tuh-buhl] -- adjective

1. Incapable of being investigated, analyzed, or scrutinized; impenetrable.

2. Not easily understood; mysterious; unfathomable: an inscrutable smile.

3. Incapable of being seen through physically; physically impenetrable: the inscrutable depths of the ocean.
.

Both the GearWrench and the Brown Line seem capable of handling the gnarliest jobs, very few of which you're ever going to do on your cars. About the only time you're ever going to utilize their maximum capabilities is tightening the front wheel drive axle nuts on CV shafts. Otherwise they're way too big and subsequently cumbersome.
Ideally you should be looking for something shorter (maybe about 18") and with angular and 150 ft. lb. abilities. The most torque you're going to apply other than the example I gave is maybe 120 ft. lbs. You want a wrench which will fit in all the places things need to be torqued. For most of us that means the engine compartment, and the undercarriage. Don't make your decision based on brute strength (we'll refer to that as the "///M-rated" model), buy the intelligent solution to everyday problems (the ''DSX Special").

Your best bet would be to spend a little less on your big wrench, maybe get a Craftsman, and use the rest of your money for a 3/8" drive 100 ft lb. wrench. That'll be your workhorse.

Cal- the GearWrench ad has an error on the specs for the 3/8 drive model. It says it is a 10-100 inch pound wrench, that should be 10-100 ft lb which you can verify by looking over to the right where they convert to inch pounds. If you only had one wrench that would be the most versatile and handle everything including lug bolts! For the average home hobbyist that'd be the ticket. For those who track their cars and are constantly torquing lugs the long handled 1/2" drive would be best.

Originally Posted by DSXMachina

For those who track their cars and are constantly torquing lugs the long handled 1/2" drive would be best.

Thanks DSX!

That's what I ordered; can order 3/8" too if turns out useful. But, would be in love with a powered, microprocessor torque + angle wrench, jointed, of reasonably petite dimension. So far, not in the gold....

Don't track, but next project will def make full use of an electronic wrench.
.

Cal, by powered do you mean a wrench where you just hold the handle and a motor within the handle applies the torque? The only ones like that I know of are air powered and are used on assembly lines. They must cost thousands of dollars!
If you're concerned with clearance you know you can add extensions to the drive end of a torque wrench without affecting the accuracy, right?

Is Cal referring to an electric impact wrench to remove lug bolts? Craftsman/Sears sell a 14-volt battery operated impact wrench that is just the ticket to remove lug bolts. The impact wrench can be used for other bolt removal with the appropriate impact socket.

Originally Posted by DSXMachina

Cal, by powered do you mean a wrench where you just hold the handle and a motor within the handle applies the torque? The only ones like that I know of are air powered and are used on assembly lines. They must cost thousands of dollars!
If you're concerned with clearance you know you can add extensions to the drive end of a torque wrench without affecting the accuracy, right?

That's it. Have seen at least 5 mfg's of electric wrenches - here's one with torque to angle, very nice indeed but would it fit in a wheel well? Not for some bolts.

Arrrrrrg.....
.

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

That's it. Have seen at least 5 mfg's of electric wrenches - here's one with torque to angle, very nice indeed but would it fit in a wheel well? Not for some bolts.

Arrrrrrg.....

And how much is one of those wrenches going to set you back?

http://www.torquestick.com/cart/90-f...N-BAR-Red.html

Coupled to an electric impact gun and you are "golden". You can check the torque with a manual torque wrench if you wish...

Originally Posted by anE934fun

And how much is one of those wrenches going to set you back?

Dunno! $1K not a problem.

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

Dunno! $1K not a problem.

Read Post#16 again after I fixt it

You know, I got all the air tools and the torque sticks and all that...

I've since found out it's quicker, easier, and more reliable to just do things by hand. A simple breaker bar has been all that's been necessary to remove the lug bolts. (Now that DSX converted me to "those who shall use anti-seize.") A speed wrench and a clicker, a couple of extra sockets, and I'm good to go.




For a few years now, I've only had to get out the air powered ratchet to work on the lawnmower. (Those blade bolts are a b!@#$!)

Originally Posted by ProfessorCook

Oh man , I volunteer to mow your lawn at least once if I get to drive that thing! Note to Mass. Highway Dep't, I think I've found your missing equipment!

What does it say about you when your lawnmower is more powerful than your ride?

NB I always thread the lugbolts by hand and lightly impact wrench tighten the correctly bedded bolts once they are seated. As I am sure DSX would agree, a cross threaded lugbolt would not be a happy place...

Originally Posted by ///M-ratedE90

What does it say about you when your lawnmower is more powerful than your ride?

ouch

Originally Posted by ///M-ratedE90

NB I always thread the lugbolts by hand and lightly impact wrench tighten the correctly bedded bolts once they are seated. As I am sure DSX would agree, a cross threaded lugbolt would not be a happy place...

We have a few inviolable rules here at the shop, most pertain to making sure all cars getting oil changes have oil in them when they leave the shop. One of the remaining rules has to do with nuts and bolts.
All nuts and bolts, regardless of how coarse the threads are, must be started at least three full turns before a power tool can be used to run them down. Crossed threads can kill the most profitable jobs. Especially when the bolt proceeds to bind up and snap off...

Originally Posted by DSXMachina

We have a few inviolable rules here at the shop, most pertain to making sure all cars getting oil changes have oil in them when they leave the shop. One of the remaining rules has to do with nuts and bolts.
All nuts and bolts, regardless of how coarse the threads are, must be started at least three full turns before a power tool can be used to run them down. Crossed threads can kill the most profitable jobs. Especially when the bolt proceeds to bind up and snap off...

I guess that is the closest I will ever get to aquiescence! LOL!

[You know he only called you "The MAN" because he wanted something, right?]

Originally Posted by anE934fun

Is Cal referring to an electric impact wrench to remove lug bolts? Craftsman/Sears sell a 14-volt battery operated impact wrench that is just the ticket to remove lug bolts. The impact wrench can be used for other bolt removal with the appropriate impact socket.

I just bought the Ryobi 1/2" 18V impact wrench a couple of weeks ago at Home Depot since I've already had the Ryobi 18V system for several years.

Originally Posted by ///M-ratedE90

NB I always thread the lugbolts by hand and lightly impact wrench tighten the correctly bedded bolts once they are seated. As I am sure DSX would agree, a cross threaded lugbolt would not be a happy place...

Having previously used an electric drill with a number of adapters to get up to a 1/2" 17mm socket I carelessly didn't have one of the lug bolts threaded enough into the hub before applying the new electric impact wrench and promptly stripped the tip of the lug bolt and the first thread of the hub. This was while swapping the race wheels/tires on a Friday afternoon with an autocross the next day. Fortunately, a buddy had a 12mm x 1.50 tap with a nice German-made Schroder ratcheting tap wrench which promptly fixed the problem.

Originally Posted by DSXMachina

We have a few inviolable rules here at the shop... One of the remaining rules has to do with nuts and bolts. All nuts and bolts, regardless of how coarse the threads are, must be started at least three full turns before a power tool can be used to run them down. Crossed threads can kill the most profitable jobs. Especially when the bolt proceeds to bind up and snap off...

This is my new garage rule. Fortunately the error was discovered immediately, no serious damage was done, and the fix was relatively easy.