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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #51  
Old 04-11-2012, 08:53 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nader-Vancouver View Post
Nordic-Kat : You are absolutely great . I am happy to get to know you . Thanks a lot regarding the info on cleaning the leather . First of all I am absolutely loving my new 328i cabrio. Yes I know my engine is not turbo but the silky inline 3 liter 6 is smooth and pulls when needed plus I can always go a reverse with paddle shifters if needed for a highway pass or ...
As for The stains are not sticky , they are White hollow circles on the surface close to the back rests. I think they are water stains that stayed there for long and now combined with dust and penetrated to lower layers.I could not completely get rid of them by moist towel. I will try the leather cleaner that you mentioned and let you know how it works.
Kat : what's your BMW?
They do sound like water stains. I've seen these before. Try simple first, which would be a little household white vinegar on a saturated cotton ball, chased by some fresh water. If that doesn't do the trick, try a mix of 80% distilled water, 15% isopropyl alcohol, 5% Woolite (by volume). Use a gentle brush like an old discarded toothbrush to work it into the stain, follow by some fresh distilled water to rinse off the soap, etc.

Regarding your question? My BMW is plainly described in "Mein Auto".
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  #52  
Old 04-11-2012, 09:14 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgwaterman View Post
Hey kat

Took my car in today for the hardtop catching on the passenger side latch, unfortunatley they were not able to get the hardtop to do the same thing therefore they could not detect what is wrong.They said they looked for tsb on the problem but could not find anything in their computer, I believe you said something about being a hinge in a cowl ?

Thanks Kat

P.g.waterman
I don't know if this will help, but I hope so. Here is the invoice for the warranty work that was done to rectify my "sticky top" issue. My SA got promoted to Service Manager, but I still use him as a front line especially with top related issues and he is the person who tagged this as a TSB issue.

In the meantime I'll try to find the thread I started when I had this issue as it may have some pertinent information.
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  #53  
Old 04-12-2012, 10:20 PM
pgwaterman pgwaterman is offline
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latch catching

Kat

Thanks, they are telling me there is no tsb on 2008 and they will not look at 2009 because there might be different parts but I am not buying it ,maybe this will help.

P.g. waterman
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  #54  
Old 04-16-2012, 11:21 AM
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judyg951 judyg951 is offline
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At what point did you start lubrication on the top? I am picking up a 2012 328i convertible at the end of the week (It's currently at the port and waiting for transport to the dealer), or since it will be under warranty is this something to even consider doing?

It's officially my husbands car, but just like the 5er we will both share it.
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2011 F10 sport, 2012 E93M sport (totaled)
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  #55  
Old 04-16-2012, 07:22 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by judyg951 View Post
At what point did you start lubrication on the top? I am picking up a 2012 328i convertible at the end of the week (It's currently at the port and waiting for transport to the dealer), or since it will be under warranty is this something to even consider doing?

It's officially my husbands car, but just like the 5er we will both share it.
Congrats on the new cabrio!

I started my seal lubrication from the beginning. I wish I would have known as much as I have learned regarding the joint lubrication from the very beginning as well. I had my first "sticky top" issue about a year ago - roughly 18 months into ownership. My 2009 E93 is still under warranty but I would much rather deal with these issues myself than deal with the stress of taking it to the dealership. More importantly, it is very disconcerting when you are out on a joyride and things start to act 'funny'. Better to be proactive with regard to seal maintenance and joint lubrication so you can enjoy your cabrio to its fullest.

The E93s are a little more "high-maintenance", but the rewards are well worth the effort.
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  #56  
Old 05-22-2012, 07:18 PM
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andrew b andrew b is offline
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Update on some lubrication points.

My top was making a louder-than-normal "unlatching" sound when it first opened from the closed position (right after the windows break seal and start to go down).

From inside, I was able to tell it was coming from the drivers side, almost right over my head and to the left. I then closed the top, and opened it from the outside using the key. I was able to isolate the new/louder "ratchet-y" sound as coming from the middle of the front panel, on the edge.

Allowing the top to open far enough to see what's going on, I noticed cam-type fasteners that hold the roof panels together when they are closed (pins, kind of like the ones in the photos, but larger. There is a photo of one of the recepticles for this size pin in the next-to-last photo, but the ones I found all mount horizontally between the flat top panels). Watching the top a couple times, I could tell the sound was from the cam/pin combination (I think that's what to call it - a pin-like structure with a head that fits into a socket, which closes around it and pulls tight). So I got the Wurth HH-K spray out, and very lightly sprayed the pin (definitely use a catch rag, as the pin is kind of out in the open) and then inside the recepticle for the pin. Worked the top a couple times, and *poof*, the new/louder ratching sound was gone.

So I opened it back up to the partial position, and went around and located all these (one on each side of each panel) that hold the roof pieces together when it's closed, and lubricated them the same way.

Top is more quiet than it was

Off-topic: the location, mounting technique, and size of those pins almost makes me think the roof panels, once hooked together and to the window piece and anchored to the A-pillar and trunk deck, are more solid than a single piece of steel would be - kind of like when you join 2 pieces of wood with dowels, the week spot isn't the joint anymore. Those things are solid, and pull down extremely tightly. I also had never noticed how thick the panels actually are. I'd love to know how the retractable hardtop compares in crush tests against a coupe roof, just for peace of mind....

Last edited by andrew b; 05-23-2012 at 04:37 AM.
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  #57  
Old 06-03-2012, 07:41 AM
sorus sorus is offline
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Many thanks to Nordic Kat and Fun2Drive for the guide. I followed the instructions and applied Krytox 205 grease to all the seals (even door seals and the seals in the trunk), and the rubber feels significantly more compliant. Apparently, the rubber seals were never lubricated at the factory or dealership.

For those who are curious, lubricating all the seals in the car used up about half of the 2 oz tube, so about 1 oz altogether, even though I probably used more than is necessary. Doing the top seals alone would have required about 0.5 oz.

A 2 oz Krytox 205 tube goes for about USD 60 at Amazon.com, so it costs about USD 30 to treat the entire car, or about USD 15 to treat the top seals.

After reading more about the lubricant, there is another version in the form of oil instead of grease, Krytox 105, available as well. It seems to be the official VW recommended lubricant for the top seals in their Eos cabriolet.

There is plenty of information about Krytox in this thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3087297

Does anyone have any experience with the oil formula? Is there a reason why grease is recommended in this guide?

Last edited by sorus; 06-03-2012 at 07:46 AM.
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  #58  
Old 06-03-2012, 08:25 AM
Submariner Submariner is offline
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I havent used Krytox yet for my rubber seals - but rather the Gummy Pledge. For only $8 online, I literally bathe my rubber seals with it ...
I will read that link above to see if Krytox once a year is a strong requirement.
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  #59  
Old 06-18-2012, 03:49 PM
Nader-Vancouver Nader-Vancouver is offline
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Hi Kat,
First of all the vinegar solution with warm water used with a soft,clean towel completely cleaned the stains on the plastic panel at the back, so thanks.
Now I have a problem with the Automatic climate Control. According to the owners manual, once you program it to certain temperature, the cooling function starts also automatically.
I set the temperature on 19 degree C ( that's metric ) and the outside temperature was more. Then I started driving and for more than 20 minutes, the cooling function did not start automatically. I almost started to sweat but wanted to test the system so waited longer but still the cooling function little green light with the little snow drop sign stayed off. Finally, I gave up and turned it on manually. Is this a malfunction or do we always should turn the cooling function on/off manually?
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  #60  
Old 06-18-2012, 06:56 PM
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Thunder Dump Thunder Dump is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nader-Vancouver View Post
Now I have a problem with the Automatic climate Control. According to the owners manual, once you program it to certain temperature, the cooling function starts also automatically.
I set the temperature on 19 degree C ( that's metric ) and the outside temperature was more. Then I started driving and for more than 20 minutes, the cooling function did not start automatically. I almost started to sweat but wanted to test the system so waited longer but still the cooling function little green light with the little snow drop sign stayed off. Finally, I gave up and turned it on manually. Is this a malfunction or do we always should turn the cooling function on/off manually?
If you manually turned the A/C off ('snowflake' switch light off) it will not turn back on automatically regardless of what temp you have set. You need to turn it on (green light on) and then press auto. It will maintain your desired temp whether that requires cooling or heating.
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  #61  
Old 06-19-2012, 09:20 AM
Nader-Vancouver Nader-Vancouver is offline
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Thanks Thunder , it make sense.
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  #62  
Old 07-31-2012, 01:54 AM
manyalaf manyalaf is offline
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Exclamation Replacing Park light bulb on E90

Please assist here, how do I replace park light bulb on E90?
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  #63  
Old 08-01-2012, 02:49 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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This might help.
You have a sedan correct?
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=453395
This means you need to take the fender liner on the side of the car that is burned out and replace the bulb that way.
By the way this isn't the sticky to post this in. You might have better success as a general post in this main section that follows this one...
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  #64  
Old 08-16-2012, 08:42 PM
JimTrout JimTrout is offline
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I wanted to share my experience on my 328icv roof squeak issue here in Denver. I took a printout (and a pdf on a geek stick) of this sticky to my service department last week and made an appointment for yesterday to have the roof "serviced". When I arrived I was told that their technicians had read over your procedure and could do the job as described for 3 hours labor, which would not be under warranty. I am still under the Extended Service plan I bought (6 years, 100,000 miles) from the dealer in Phoenix (BMW North Scottsdale) when I bought the car. but apparently no roof services fall under that warranty.
They said, after looking over the car, that they needed to perform a "Microswitch adjustment under the driver's side Cowl / A Pillar cover, as per BMW 'SIB 5 4 12 07'". That service was performed for $233, again, not under warranty.. I approved them doing that service, but I will do the work in your sticky myself, as it apparently won't void any warranty. So that is what happened to me and my car, I look forward to hearing other stories.
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  #65  
Old 08-17-2012, 09:26 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Jim,

Thanks for poisting this data point as it certainly gives us alll a little bit of reference what the dealerships value this basic maintenance at.

I do find it mildly amusing that a dealership in a major metropolitan area needed to use the sticky as a point of reference for this type of service.
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  #66  
Old 08-19-2012, 01:21 PM
Submariner Submariner is offline
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Hmm. I wonder if I have the same problem as Jim above. My beloved E93 has developed a rattle on top drivers side. I may be wrong but I think it occurred after I jolted the car while driving over one of New York's finest road potholes. I can't be sure. It just seems like it happened after that incident. Initially it bathed the seals with gummy pledge which suppressed the rattle for a while but it has returned. Sounds like a window rattling between two metal grooves...
I tried poking around that area when I partially opened the roof but I can't pinpoint the problem. I wish there was a screw to adjust or something - but that will be all to easy
Since I am still under the CPO warranty for another 4 years I will take it to the dealer. I am just afraid they won't be able to replicate the rattle and leave it unfixed. We'll see.
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  #67  
Old 08-19-2012, 07:37 PM
JimTrout JimTrout is offline
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as background, my initial reason for looking up this forum was a sound somewhere between a squeak and a rattle coming from the top area of the driver's side pillar at the front where the window joins. My first thought was soem problem in the window's seal.
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  #68  
Old 08-20-2012, 12:10 AM
eastside328 eastside328 is offline
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Kat,

I lubed my top last night following this post. I was wondering though, there are many more hinge points and and pivot points than is mentioned here. Some of those include the two hooks that grab the window frame in front and the big hook that pulls the top tight at the top seam. There are other hinges in the system such as the ones that connect to the window section that were not mentioned. Do your sources say that we should not lube those? They look very similar in construction to the other hinges that were mentioned in this article.

Last edited by eastside328; 08-20-2012 at 12:26 AM.
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  #69  
Old 08-20-2012, 07:08 AM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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The other hinges should be lubed as well. However the latches (hooks as you call them) should not be the pivots should be. The linkages you refer to are mostly located under the trunk area when the truck as pivoted aft to allow the top to fold.
All linkages should be lubed. Wurth if it is possible to get it in there is the best lubricant for the job because it goes in liquid and turns into a sticky grease which means it will stay for a long time. The best BMW dealership use that product...
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  #70  
Old 08-20-2012, 09:16 AM
eastside328 eastside328 is offline
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Yes, I mostly used HHS-K as directed.
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  #71  
Old 08-20-2012, 09:29 AM
eastside328 eastside328 is offline
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I also noticed that although one of the photos showed the latch posts and the alignment post holes in the front window frame and mentioned that this would be covered later, it wasn't. Is this for update no 5? I put some lithium grease on the post and HHK-S on the latch posts. Even though they are a little hard to get to, do you suggest the pivot point for the hook/cams/latch that are in the front roof section fore and aft be lubed with HHK-S, I am assuming so.

Last edited by eastside328; 08-20-2012 at 09:30 AM.
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  #72  
Old 08-20-2012, 03:49 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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Yes and I think it is overkill but this is a thread for keeping this top enduring as long as we own the convertible. Realistically it need not be done but I have done it as added insurance. Wurth is the best product for that application but the other two work well too but don't last as long especially WD-40. All of my convertible BMWs back to my E36's have the same type of latch and this is easy to do so why not. I have never incurred a system failure on my E36 convertibles because I am guessing that over maintaining it helped.
I just sold my M3 convertible 98 model with 284K miles and the new owner is very happy with a fully functioning top.
Hope this help...
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  #73  
Old 08-28-2012, 03:44 PM
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pistolpuma pistolpuma is offline
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First of all, great info Kat. Nicely done.
I've been wanting to do this for the last couple of years. Finally got tired of putting it off and got to it this afternoon. Like Submariner, I gave it a liberal app of the Gummipflege and let it soak in. Did the roof, doors, trunk--everything. Took me about 3 hours and will stay on top of it from here on.
Plan to do the lube tomorrow. Everything looks great and I feel better for having done it.
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  #74  
Old 09-04-2012, 09:50 AM
1zamboni 1zamboni is offline
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Hi Kat & fun2drive,

My E93 is only 6 weeks old and initial problem was the clunk loud nopise when I hit a bump, took it back to dealer and they fixed that problem, since then I had the squeaky & rattle noises from front driver & rear passenger sides. The car has been in the shop three times already and they still could not resolve the noise issue.
The shop foreman said this is typical convertible problem and that really bother me, they have lub all hinges and rubbers deal and problem getting worse, the noise only came in early & late evening when weather is cold and never during day time.
Any advises to fix this problem would greatly appreciated.

Thnk you
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2014 F30 335i Melbourne Red
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2009 E82 ( Sold )
2006 E90 ( Sold )
2001 E46 ( Sold )

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  #75  
Old 09-04-2012, 10:06 AM
Submariner Submariner is offline
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I have a visit Scheduled to the dealer his weekend also regarding my top rattle issue.

I found this on the web which I will print and bring to the dealer. Perhaps it may be helpful: http://www.justanswer.com/bmw/5r7u8-...nvertible.html
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