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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-30-2012, 07:32 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 328i
Stuck and stripped o2 sensor bolt/nut. What should I do?

It appairs that these o2 sensor may even be the originals from 1998, the guy I bought it from had NEVER done any manteinance to this car. So I'm stuck with all the homework.

I already sprayed PB blaster LOTS of it. Left it alone for a while. Ran the car so they would warm up. Blow torched the **** out of it. And after all this the nut ended up getting all stripped.

What should I do at this point?
Thanks for your help in advance.

This is how both o2 Sensors look like...
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  #2  
Old 04-30-2012, 07:45 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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What part did you heat up? You're supposed to heat the pipe it's in, not the nut/sensor. Expand the outside part, not the piece that's in it. Heat the pipe and the fitting the O2 sensor screws into RED hot, but try to keep the heat off the sensor itself as much as possible, then go after the sensor with Vice-Grips as tight as you can apply them. This will probably be best done with the pipes OUT OF THE CAR.
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  #3  
Old 04-30-2012, 08:00 PM
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Gooby Gooby is offline
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You could probably have an exhaust shop cut it out and weld a new bung in place. It should cost like $20 for labor and a new o2 sensor can be had for ~ $50-100 depending on how mechanically inclined you are.
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  #4  
Old 05-01-2012, 10:23 AM
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petriej petriej is offline
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Mine were on pretty good, too. I had to use a bar to get enough torque on my wrench. It looks like yours are boogered up, though. Vice grips might be your only option sans cutting it out.
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this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
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  #5  
Old 05-01-2012, 12:29 PM
RhymeGrime RhymeGrime is offline
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Didn't you use the o2 sensor wrench from auto zone?? It's impossible to strip it with that wrench, what exactly did you use to get it so fakked up?
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  #6  
Old 05-01-2012, 02:53 PM
jaguarx7 jaguarx7 is offline
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There is still enough there to bite if you use the right tool. Might try using a hammer and chisel or punch, whack the thing a few good times, and see if the shock will break it free. If you have a friend with an air compressor and an air chisel the sensor would be out in seconds.
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  #7  
Old 05-01-2012, 03:01 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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fuuuuuu


this is what i forgot to buy at the parts store today.


Ughh
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  #8  
Old 05-01-2012, 05:37 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RhymeGrime View Post
Didn't you use the o2 sensor wrench from auto zone?? It's impossible to strip it with that wrench, what exactly did you use to get it so fakked up?
yeah, about those...they're ok for some instances, but for really stuck on units, they are like a cheap date. too easy to spread.

as ken suggeted, heat the pipe up red hot and then apply torque to the sensor.

worst case scenario, cut the wires and slip a box end wrench on it.


btw, i like the 1st sample, not the 2nd...




df
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Last edited by drivinfaster; 05-01-2012 at 05:41 PM.
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  #9  
Old 05-02-2012, 06:40 AM
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veteran011 veteran011 is offline
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this is gonna be good!
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Project List:
Replace coolant temp sensor
Replace starter
Brake and Power Steering Fluid Flush
Front Control Arms, Bushings, and Tie Rods
Replace Passenger Lock Actuator
Reglue Peeling Hedliner
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  #10  
Old 05-02-2012, 09:08 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 328i
Hornhospital: I did burn the pipe but there were no redhot metals. These o2 sensors are old and are getting replaced so it doesnt matter if they get extra hot.


KaptinKP: I got the replacement Bosch o2 sensors for 75 bucks. All I'm trying to do is take the old ones off. And I would have no clue on how to remove the pipe. So I will leave that as my last resort.


petriej: I did use a bar to get better torque and it just kept slippin


RhymeGrime: I did and it fited perfectly but as I pulled it just ****ed it up. Then I tried the grips and that just made them worse.


jaguarx7: I do have an air compressor but not the tool, so Ill just go oldshool with the hammer and chisel.


drivinfaster what sup, thanks again for the help. I saw those sockets at autozone but didn't think either would help with such little room to use them. But I can defenatelly buy one and try it out .

veteran011: Lul

Everyone thanks for the help. Sorry I took a while to reply I spent the weekend at Dells, WI. I'll try all these tomorrow and report back with my findings.
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  #11  
Old 05-02-2012, 10:29 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 318is / 1993 325is
The purpose of heating a stuck threaded joint is to expand the piece holding the part that's stuck in it. That will loosen the fit enough that hopefully the piece will unscrew, but you have to get the outside piece at minimum RED hot.. Keeping the heat on the outside part and off the sensor as much as possible keeps the sensor from expanding as much as the outer pipe.

By heating both pieces you were defeating the whole purpose of using heat. You just as well have not used the torch at all. I know you can't help getting the sensor hot to some extent, but concentrate the heat on the pipe.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #12  
Old 05-03-2012, 06:44 AM
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veteran011 veteran011 is offline
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I'm replacing the pre-cat o2 sensors this weekend. I'm gonna take this thread as a list of things to avoid. haha. good luck dude. KP may be on the right track though. dropping the mid-pipe will give you more clearance (and leverage) and hopefully let you get a better grip.
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Project List:
Replace coolant temp sensor
Replace starter
Brake and Power Steering Fluid Flush
Front Control Arms, Bushings, and Tie Rods
Replace Passenger Lock Actuator
Reglue Peeling Hedliner
Swirl removal
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