CCV Replacement on an M54 (E39)

I successfully removed and replaced the CCV and all hoses using the DIY procedure posted by Fudman. This job was a royal pain and took about 12 hours; 1/2 day saturday and full day sunday. I had two areas of difficulty. One, removal of the hidden 10mm nut behind the intake throttle body securing the electrical junction box. I bought a 10mm socket w/swivel and was able to final get in a remove. Second was the re-attachment of the connector-line hose to the top port of the CCV. I had to modify the new CCV component as described by Fudman-- reduced the stab/twist locking detent from 1 inch to about .3 inches work for me as well. I used a 1/8 inch diameter endmill type cutting tool in my Dremel instead of a sanding stone. I labeled all of the electrical cable assemblies with file folder labels- worked great. Great write up by Fudman-. Thanks, BMW657.

I changed my CCV today using Fudman's DIY in & found it worked very well. I have two suggestions to make.

I found that I didn't have to disconnect the 3 plugs to the top of the engine over toward the exhaust side which allows the harness to be pulled across. Actually, I couldn't get one of the plugs undone & in desperation tried leaving them connected. I had a little less freedom to move the wiring box but found it to be no big problem.

Best though, I have some pictures to describe a solution to that @#%^& connection tube that everyone complains about. I think some others may have tried to describe this method without pictures, but the sequence of steps was never clear for me.

I spent over an hour feeding it down into position & then trying to rotate the lock on the joint to CCV without coming even close. With this method it became a 1 minute job - just the connection tube that is, not the entire job.
Also, I didn't have to modify the locking connection as Fudman describes.

The trick was to detach the evap valve on the front of the manifold so the hard plastic vacuum hose to it could be flexed down out of the way. Here is what worked for me:
1 place new CCV in position
2 remove evap valve bracket from manifold and drop down out of the way
3 from under the manifold, push the connection tube onto the CCV. Picture01
4 rotate the connection tube around the joint to the CCV, the end going up to the distribution piece will swing easily up between the manifold runners. This locks the connection tube onto the CCV. Picture02 from top and Picture03 under the manifold
5 reattach evap valve bracket. Picuture04. I had to twist the valve on its rubber mount to get a screwdriver on one of the two the torx screws but there is lots of compliance, no damage done.

You will see from that pictures that I was doing my oil filter housing gasket so I had easier access than otherwise, I think though that this method would work with the oil filter housing in place.

Regards
RDL

I'm trying to get a handle on the parts that are typically replaced during a CCV system overhaul as per this thread (see post #4):
- How to test the BMW E39 pressure-controlled crankcase ventilation system (CCV)?

I'm also confused about the part number for the M54 guide tube as per this thread (see post #29):
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > CCV replacement tips

Q1: Is this the right list of parts that are needed for the M54?

Total $220 to $235 for the following 7 to 8 items:

1. Pressure regulating valve (cold weather version, 11617533400 = $66)
2. Vent pipe (cold weather version, 11617533398 = $28)
3. Connecting line (cold weather version, 11617533399 = $34)
4. Vent hose (cold weather version, 11157532629 = $15)
5. Return pipe (stock version is already insulated, 11617504536 = $34)
6. Dipstick guide tube (redesigned version sans concentric rings, 11437531258 = $41)
7. Dipstick guide tube lower o-ring (19.5x3mm, 11431740045 = $2)
8. Vacuum hose black (not on all E39s = $15, e.g., not on the M54)

Originally Posted by bluebee

I'm trying to get a handle on the parts that are typically replaced during a CCV system overhaul as per this thread (see post #4):
- How to test the BMW E39 pressure-controlled crankcase ventilation system (CCV)?

I'm also confused about the part number for the M54 guide tube as per this thread (see post #29):
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > CCV replacement tips

Q1: Is this the right list of parts that are needed for the M54?

Total $220 to $235 for the following 7 to 8 items:

1. Pressure regulating valve (cold weather version, 11617533400 = $66)
2. Vent pipe (cold weather version, 11617533398 = $28)
3. Connecting line (cold weather version, 11617533399 = $34)
4. Vent hose (cold weather version, 11157532629 = $15)
5. Return pipe (stock version is already insulated, 11617504536 = $34)
6. Dipstick guide tube (redesigned version sans concentric rings, 11437531258 = $41)
7. Dipstick guide tube lower o-ring (19.5x3mm, 11431740045 = $2)
8. Vacuum hose black (not on all E39s = $15, e.g., not on the M54)

There is a kit available that combines a few parts
CCV repair kit 11 61 7 534 237
(includes)
vent valve 11 61 7 533 400
vent hose 12 61 7 533 398
connecting line 13 61 7 533 399

This past February, I paid $91 for the kit at
http://bmwpartssource.com/partlocato...?siteid=216042

Regards
RDL

Ha, always save receipts! Blue, here's the list of parts I purchased from EAC late last year:

11617533400 Crankcase Vent Valve GENUINE BMW 65.42 1 65.42
11617533399 Crankcase Vent Hose GENUINE BMW 33.65 1 33.65
11617504536 Crankcase Vent Pipe GENUINE BMW 29.81 1 29.81
11431740045 O-Ring D P H 0.84 1 0.84
11157532629 Crankcase Vent Hose GENUINE BMW 15.19 1 15.19
11617533398 Crankcase Vent Pipe GENUINE BMW 27.85 1 27.85

If anything else was needed, Gary at Martin Motorsports never told me.

Originally Posted by bluebee

Total $220 to $235 for the following 7 to 8 items:

1. Pressure regulating valve (cold weather version, 11617533400 = $66)
2. Vent pipe (cold weather version, 11617533398 = $28)
3. Connecting line (cold weather version, 11617533399 = $34)
4. Vent hose (cold weather version, 11157532629 = $15)
5. Return pipe (stock version is already insulated, 11617504536 = $34)
6. Dipstick guide tube (redesigned version sans concentric rings, 11437531258 = $41)
7. Dipstick guide tube lower o-ring (19.5x3mm, 11431740045 = $2)
8. Vacuum hose black (not on all E39s = $15, e.g., not on the M54)

Originally Posted by rdl

• CCV repair kit, 11 61 7 534 237 = $91
  • Pressure regulating vent valve (CCV), 11 61 7 533 400
  • Connecting line, 13 61 7 533 399
  • Vent hose, 12 61 7 533 398

Interesting.

I'm surprised the 'kit' isn't cheaper, and I'm shocked it doesn't seem to come with the "vent pipe" & "return pipe". Are you supposed to get them separately, or do people not change them?

The $93 CCV Repair kit (11617534237) only seems to contain three parts:

1. Pressure regulating valve = YES
2. Vent pipe = NO
3. Connecting line = YES
4. Vent hose = YES
5. Return pipe = NO
6. Dipstick guide tube = NO
7. Dipstick guide tube lower o-ring = NO
8. Vacuum hose black = Not needed for the M54

Nominal prices for just the kit parts are:

• $66 Pressure regulating valve (cold weather version)
• $34 Connecting line (cold weather version)
• $15 Vent hose (cold weather version?)
• TOTAL NOMINAL = ~$115

Originally Posted by Edgy36-39

11617533400 Crankcase Vent Valve $65.42
11617504536 Crankcase Vent Pipe $29.81
11617533399 Crankcase Vent Hose $33.65
11431740045 O-Ring DPH $0.84
11157532629 Crankcase Vent Hose $15.19
11617533398 Crankcase Vent Pipe $27.85

Being an ex program manager, I popped this into the spreadsheet, and, re-ordering a bit to doublecheck against realoem, your list becomes:

1. 11617533400 Crankcase Vent Valve $65.42
   • Same as Realoem: Pressure regulating valve (cold weather version, 11617533400 = $66)
2. 11617533398 Crankcase Vent Pipe $27.85
   • Same as Realoem: Vent pipe (cold weather version, 11617533398 = $28)
3. 11617533399 Crankcase Vent Hose $33.65
   • Same as Realoem: Connecting line (cold weather version, 11617533399 = $34)
4. 11157532629 Crankcase Vent Hose $15.19
   • Same as Realoem: Vent hose (cold weather version, 11157532629 = $15)
5. 11617504536 Crankcase Vent Pipe $29.81
   • Same as Realoem: Return pipe (stock version is already insulated, 11617504536 = $34)
6. No dipstick guide tube:
   • Realoem: Dipstick guide tube (redesigned version sans concentric rings, 11437531258 = $41)
7. 11431740045 O-Ring DPH $0.84
   • Same as Realoem: Dipstick guide tube lower o-ring (19.5x3mm, 11431740045 = $2)
8. No vacuum hose black
   • Realoem: Vacuum hose black (3.5x1.8mm, 11727545323, not on all E39s = $15, e.g., not on the M54)

OK. Looking at the spreadsheet, I see your prices were almost exactly what I found in the Realoem nominal tables; and your part numbers were the same.

The 'only' things you didn't get were:
• Dipstick guide tube, 11437531258 = $41
• Vacuum hose black, 11727545323, not on all E39s = $15

Your engine probably doesn't need the vacuum hose so let's forget that.
But what is the decision-making process about the dipstick guide tube?

I guess, if you replace the CCV system with the cold-weather parts (which you did), and, if you clean out the 'gunk' from the dipstick guide tube Y arm, then (I guess) you don't need the redesigned dipstick guide tube.

Was that your thinking about the dipstick guide tube?

BTW, I see EAC Tuning has the same CCV cold-weather kit that rdl purchased from BMW Parts Source:
Part# : 11 61 7 534 237 $109.95
Vent Valve Assembly, Crankcase (Cold Climate Version) Includes:
(1) Insulated Vent Valve
(2) Insulated Hoses

Originally Posted by Fudman

You won't need the cold weather version in the Bahamas!

Fudman, but his non-cold-weather version is cogged again. I'm in california, and i need to do this CCV replacement also. since they are the same price, is the cold-weather version less likely to clog again?
In mild weather places, is the cold-weather version still better than the non-cold-weather version?

thanks for the great DIY Fudman, this make E39 ownership so much more manageable!

Originally Posted by pj-

I just got this done thanks to the various DIYs here and elsewhere.

One problem.. I found a mystery o-ring under my car while everything was apart.



Its dimensions are 12mm outer diameter, 8mm inner diameter, 2mm thick. It's not the dipstick o-ring because that is about the same diameter as the nickel. I looked through some realoem diagrams which didn't help. It was clean and dry when I found it, so it was either in a non-dirty location or it fell off the new CCV.

+1 Just replaced my CCV and also found one as well. I've got the old parts so I will look for a similar o-ring.

Originally Posted by riro424

+1 Just replaced my CCV and also found one as well. I've got the old parts so I will look for a similar o-ring.

Mystery solved thanks to Fudman's pics. It's the o-ring holding the insulation halves together on the CCV.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...8&d=1257119976

I came to this thread hoping to see a picture of the vacuum cap (aka blanking cap, bunge, & endcap) on the CCV itself for this thread:
- Might we be able to list, with pics (realoem diagrams ok) of ALL E39 vacuum lines?

But alas ... there is no picture of the CCV vacuum endcap here ... and isn't anywhere I can find yet.

BTW, for the cross-linked record, this M54 engine CCV DIY from BavAuto is also good (but it too doesn't have a picture of the vacuum endcap).

Hi Gang - Could use a little bit of additional direction here. Just got the old car back from the stealership. Problem that occurred that send me there was I lost power assit to the brakes for a breif time (5 min or so) then popped check engine lights throwing peake codes indicating misfires in 3 cylinders. Cleared the codes, car ran fine again. I know that this was some kind of loss of vacuum to the power brake booster.

The report back indicated I need to replace the "Crankcase Vent Valve/Intake Gasket & Brake booster Line". Total price $2088.00!!!!! Plus tax!

Now I see that Fudman's details cover the CCV, which can affect vacuum, does anyone have any idea what intake gasket is being referred to (do the mean the complete intake manifold gasket?) and does anyone know where the brake booster line runs to after it leaves the booster?

Thanks.

Mike
2001 E39 M54 145K

Originally Posted by Fudman

Mileage is anytime. it all depends on how many short trips (<5 miles) you do in cold weather with how many long trips (> 10 miles) in between. The cause of CCV failure is condensation of oil vapors in the CCV itself. See spydrz pix for details. Can happen anywhere but is worst in cold climates. As 16valvex, the design "fix" is cheesy and a stopgap measure at best. But it is better than the original design. The real solution is to avoid short trips in cold weather. Short trips cause the oil condensation, long trips burn it off. Symptoms of CCV failure or clogging are increased oil consumption, black smoke in exhaust (typically at startup), etc. Cracked CCV hoses can create all sorts of running and idling problems due to vacuum leaks. The worst case scenario is engine hydrolock but that is rare and is typically where it is REALLY cold.

What is engine hyrolock? nvm on that, I'll look it up. I read the CCV can get clogged too. Would that cause exhaust like smelling oil/smoke to come billowing into the car air vents? It happened today, but when I went to open hood and check, nothing. Not a drop to be seen, nor any smoke. While the smoke has not come back, I can smell that oil/gas smell in the car. Not really a burning oil smell, but sort of gas/oil. Car is running fine (relatively).

I did add oil, but I'm 99% certain it's not overfill. I'm leaving to this CCV issue-possibly. The previous owner replaced the VCG and when I did spark plugs, it was all good/clean. While I don't have a lot of history, I do remember him saying the vanos was done, something about cyclone new radiator, alternator (looks old to me),

I'm contemplating the dipstick guide as well. I was going to just clean it, but since it's been redesigned, might be worthwhile, while there doing the CCV.

Has anyone used this complete winter kit? http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11_6...400/ES1905414/ They have a kit without throttle body ring, ICV grommet, etc. for $122, but heard the throttle body good to replace. But I have not seen anyone recommend the ICV grommet. The boot is probably good since there could be a crack somewhere (i guess).

Bluebee, where did you find the dipstick guide for $41. The cheapest I've found it was $71 http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11_6...05414/ES24241/ (BAVAUTO was almost $90). I'd rather clean it and save money, but if if others replace it while doing CCV, I'd probably do the same.

I'm not sure if the CCV is original or not, but some of the hoses say BMW and look a little worn. I can't tell about the CCV itself. Also, the CCV hoses are winter ones. Interesting that if it is the winter version, that it went bad.

Originally Posted by pj-

I didn't take off any fuel injectors. I took off the air intake hoses, throttle body, ICV, DISA valve and of course the ccv.

I had the exact same thing happen to me! While it's a public road, it's hard to believe it's that much of a coincidence I was doing the same job and the same oring shows up?

UPDATE: Went to install new boots tonight and noticed vent hose had some grimey dirt on it. I was WTH (said worse), and then noticed same on the power steering case. I figured maybe the PS fluid made it over to vent hose, then month's worth of dirt. But while it's normal for PS fluid to escape vent hole, it would have covered oil filter housing too (it didn't). All three were clean last month when I did oil change, so it's new. I'm not worried about the PS fluid, but i do NOT want to mess with that CCV again! OMG!. Royal PITA. I knew it too because when I got the full CCV winter kit (can't remember if EAC, BAV) there was one non-OEM part with the kit. I think the vent pipe was URO or something like that, but it was the only non-OEM part and from what i can tell, the only one to be failing. So bummed. I don't see any oil leakage below that section where it connects to the VC, but there is obviously some gasious oil escaping somehow. There is no smoke/odor, and it must be very slight/small. But I will have to tackle it before winter. Be VERY wary of the next DIY out there--OEM only on the CCV (IMHO).

Happen to anyone else? Based upon your experience, is it serious, or I'm ok for now?

Originally Posted by mjbennett9

maybe the PS fluid made it over to vent hose, then month's worth of dirt. But while it's normal for PS fluid to escape vent hole, it would have covered oil filter housing too (it didn't).

I came here to find information for this thread:
- How can we clean out a clogged oil dipstick tube (connection to CCV)?

But ... regarding your question ...

I know there are two schools of thought on 'where' the PS fluid mists out ...

One is the vent hole ... but ... the other is the o-ring under the cap of the power steering fluid reservoir.

So, I must ask: When was that power-steering fluid reservoir cap o ring last replaced?

Many thanks to Fudman and subsequent experts for the write-up.

Old one came out in bits.

Didn't disconnect the wiring to the junction box, just flexed the wires.

Replaced the dipstick tube with BMW's updated spec.

Attached the connecting line (#3 in the picture) before fitting the valve and wangled it through the intake manifold.

Total time 5 hrs.

Top tip? Petroleum jelly to get the boots and pipes back on.

My Bimmer just gave up smokin

Has anyone ever purchased a new valve and had it installed only to find it was bad from the manufacturer? How can I check my replacement one before I install it and have it bad again?

Thanks any help.